At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like there
is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint and
then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a smart
or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the opposite
end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This may be the
correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment could
be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this approach,
so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)

Frankly, I use a few unions. I think the pros don't do this for 2
reasons, experience has taught them how tight everything has to be, and
cost, unions cost $ couplers cost cents. A third reason is that they
use liberal amounts of dope, a forth would be tools, most people don't
own a 4' pipe wrench let alone 2 nice light aluminum ones.

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Thats a darn good question; I don't think there is much you can do except
start over.
This time wrap with yellow teflon tape and put some dope over that.
Shouldn't leak.

If you have trouble with your joints leaking, good luck with unions.

I'm just a wonderin' why so many joints in only 65'?

--
Steve Barker




"Smarty" wrote in message
...
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like there
is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint
and then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a
smart or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the
opposite end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This
may be the correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach
suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment
could be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this
approach, so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)

On 2006-11-09, Smarty wrote:

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each
segment could be independently tightened. I have not seen
professionals use this approach, so I am guessing this is not a
great solution.....

In my building code, unions are only allowed "adjacent to accessible
equipment". That is, if you hard pipe an appliance, you can use a
union for the final connection. Otherwise, unions are out. You can
use a left/right coupling, though.

Cheers, Wayne

Thanks Wayne,

Never heard of a 'left/right coupling.......What is it?

Smarty


"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2006-11-09, Smarty wrote:

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each
segment could be independently tightened. I have not seen
professionals use this approach, so I am guessing this is not a
great solution.....

In my building code, unions are only allowed "adjacent to accessible
equipment". That is, if you hard pipe an appliance, you can use a
union for the final connection. Otherwise, unions are out. You can
use a left/right coupling, though.

Cheers, Wayne

Lots of pipe dope / tape and more unions seems like a good way for me to
proceed.


"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
oups.com...

Frankly, I use a few unions. I think the pros don't do this for 2
reasons, experience has taught them how tight everything has to be, and
cost, unions cost $ couplers cost cents. A third reason is that they
use liberal amounts of dope, a forth would be tools, most people don't
own a 4' pipe wrench let alone 2 nice light aluminum ones.

Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

Steve,

I used 10 foot pipe sections (sold by Loews and Home Depot) and needed 6 of
them. These alone account for 12 joints (2 per pipe end). I actually have
another 12 or so joints since there are vertical risers at the meter, going
through the foundation to the outdoor generator, and then over to the
generator itself. The total number of joints being prepared will probably
come out to a lot more like 30 or so. I am counting actual joints but I
suspect you may be counting fittings !! (:8

Smarty
"Steve Barker LT" wrote in message
...
I'm just a wonderin' why so many joints in only 65'?

--
Steve Barker




"Smarty" wrote in message
...
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like
there is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking
another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint
and then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a
smart or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the
opposite end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This
may be the correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach
suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment
could be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this
approach, so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)

Wayne,

I wonder if unions are not allowed because they have some greater risk of
failure?????

Smarty



"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2006-11-09, Smarty wrote:

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each
segment could be independently tightened. I have not seen
professionals use this approach, so I am guessing this is not a
great solution.....

In my building code, unions are only allowed "adjacent to accessible
equipment". That is, if you hard pipe an appliance, you can use a
union for the final connection. Otherwise, unions are out. You can
use a left/right coupling, though.

Cheers, Wayne

I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I
was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very
much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

May be time for me to invest in an air compressor. Wonder if bubble / leak
testing can be reliably accomplished with a cheap pump of some type?


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I
was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very
much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

Thanks very much Bob. I probably should have asked this question first:

How much tightening is normally applied for doing gas pipe? My wrenches are,
at most, 12 or 14 inches long. And the pipe is mostly 1", with a few feet of
3/4 inch at the appliance (generator). Do I torque things down to the point
where the male threads bottom in the fittings? I understand that dope / tape
does the sealing job, but I have not a clue as to what the correct way is to
tighten gas pipe joints. Your reply sounds like I maybe should be using a
longer wrench and a lot of muscle.


Smarty


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I
was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very
much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

More text inserted.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks very much Bob. I probably should have asked this question
first:

How much tightening is normally applied for doing gas pipe? My
wrenches are,
at most, 12 or 14 inches long. And the pipe is mostly 1", with a few
feet of
3/4 inch at the appliance (generator).
CY: First wrap the male fitting with teflon tape. Then apply
Rectorseal #5 (the ugly yellow stuff) to the male threads only. Don't
put it inside the inner threads. Use a couple of 18 inch wrenches, or
get a set at Harbor Fright, and use the 18 and 24.


Do I torque things down to the point
where the male threads bottom in the fittings?
CY: Yes!!!

I understand that dope / tape
does the sealing job, but I have not a clue as to what the correct way
is to
tighten gas pipe joints.
CY: The threads are tapered, so you have some forgiveness, as to how
tight.

Your reply sounds like I maybe should be using a
longer wrench and a lot of muscle.
CY: Very much yes!!

Smarty


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Wayne,

I wonder if unions are not allowed because they have some greater risk of
failure?????

Smarty



"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2006-11-09, Smarty wrote:

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each
segment could be independently tightened. I have not seen
professionals use this approach, so I am guessing this is not a
great solution.....

In my building code, unions are only allowed "adjacent to accessible
equipment". That is, if you hard pipe an appliance, you can use a
union for the final connection. Otherwise, unions are out. You can
use a left/right coupling, though.

Cheers, Wayne



Unions are much more likely to leak than other fittings. That is why codes
and inspectors require minimizing them. The key is to have good clean
threads, sealed with tape, dope, or both. Your inspector likely has a
preference for sealers. Many novices do not adequately tighten the joints.
If you are considering re-tightening one, then you probably did not tighten
it enough the first time. Tighten them really tight and never back one up.
Especially if you have several joints in line, you can always go whatever
additional part of a turn is needed for alignment. Unless you have a really
long wrench you generally cannot break the pipe or fitting by tightening it.
If you do break it, it is usually easy to replace at that time. Try it on a
few fittings to see just how much they can be tightened before breaking. If
you are unsure of your skills, you can seal off and test sections of pipe as
you go.

Don Young

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks very much Bob. I probably should have asked this question first:

How much tightening is normally applied for doing gas pipe? My wrenches
are, at most, 12 or 14 inches long. And the pipe is mostly 1", with a few
feet of 3/4 inch at the appliance (generator). Do I torque things down to
the point where the male threads bottom in the fittings? I understand that
dope / tape does the sealing job, but I have not a clue as to what the
correct way is to tighten gas pipe joints. Your reply sounds like I maybe
should be using a longer wrench and a lot of muscle.


I'm no expert on gas piping although I've done a bit of it myself. I
always tighten it down just as tight as I can. I use the pipe dope
specifically for gas.
I was always taught that the dope/tape actually doesn't do the sealing
although it helps. It's actually more of a lubricant so you can get those
pipes nice and tight. Not sure if this applies to black pipe.
Cheers,
cc

Smarty wrote:
Thanks very much Bob. I probably should have asked this question first:

How much tightening is normally applied for doing gas pipe? My wrenches are,
at most, 12 or 14 inches long. And the pipe is mostly 1", with a few feet of
3/4 inch at the appliance (generator). Do I torque things down to the point
where the male threads bottom in the fittings? I understand that dope / tape
does the sealing job, but I have not a clue as to what the correct way is to
tighten gas pipe joints. Your reply sounds like I maybe should be using a
longer wrench and a lot of muscle.


Smarty


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I
was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very
much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.






Pipe dope is a lubricant not a sealer...no matter what the can says....
pipe threads are tapered they grind together just like the faces of a
ground joint union....the dope just lubricates the joint so you can get
the pipe threads to jam together.

Follow the directions on the can of pipe dope.... get the joint hand
tight and then make about 3 or 4 turns with a wrench..... on 1 inch
pipe a 14 inch should be fine but an 18 would be easier......

Are you threading the pipe yourself ??? If you are then when you thread
the pipe you want to thread it till 1 thread...2 maximum threads come
out the front of the die...... making longer threads makes it easier to
thread but impossible to seal..... shorter threads wont allow the pipe
to mate enough to make a good seal.

Put you a couple of unions in there....... you will need a pressure
gauge made for gas pipe to install on the pipe...before connecting to
appliance and cap the other end...then pump up the special gas gauge
with a bicycle pump..... 10 psi for 30 minutes should insure safety....
soap everything during the air test...make your last connections and
then after turning on the gas...check evrything again with soap.

If you feel safer...try 10 pounds overnight...but if it drops a pound
or so dont worry about it.......if it drops 3-4 pounds then
recheck....but 10 psis for 30 minutes is what most building officials
will accept.... the gas pressure on a natural gas line is like 3-5
inches of water....think its 27 or 29 inches of water to equal 1
psi..... unless you are running a high pressure gas line....

I made a test rig using a cap fitting, and tapped a hole through it for a
schrader (air) valve so you can connect any air compressor, tire pump,
whatever. When a tee or elbow is added on a run, I cap it off and
pressurize the piping to that point, leak test, etc. The idea is that an
elbow or tee can't be rotated later. When you know the run is good to that
point, you can add another segment.
Really high amounts of torque aren't a guarantee that the joint will be
tight. I'm thinking it has more to do with getting the pipe dope pressed
thoroughly into the (clean) male threads, so it is drawn into the joint
correctly.
I don't go all that tight, but one of your posts
mentions, I believe, using a 14" wrench on 1" pipe, which seems a little
light. I would maybe use an 18".

Bill

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like there
is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint
and then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a
smart or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the
opposite end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This
may be the correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach
suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment
could be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this
approach, so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)

Stormin Mormon wrote:
More text inserted.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks very much Bob. I probably should have asked this question
first:

How much tightening is normally applied for doing gas pipe? My
wrenches are,
at most, 12 or 14 inches long. And the pipe is mostly 1", with a few
feet of
3/4 inch at the appliance (generator).
CY: First wrap the male fitting with teflon tape. Then apply
Rectorseal #5 (the ugly yellow stuff) to the male threads only. Don't
put it inside the inner threads. Use a couple of 18 inch wrenches, or
get a set at Harbor Fright, and use the 18 and 24.


Do I torque things down to the point
where the male threads bottom in the fittings?
CY: Yes!!!

I understand that dope / tape
does the sealing job, but I have not a clue as to what the correct way
is to
tighten gas pipe joints.
CY: The threads are tapered, so you have some forgiveness, as to how
tight.

Your reply sounds like I maybe should be using a
longer wrench and a lot of muscle.
CY: Very much yes!!

Smarty


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob


CY-

Do I torque things down to the point
where the male threads bottom in the fittings?
CY: Yes!!!

I don't think this is correct...the joint should be leak free way
before the male thread bottoms in the fitting

I do agree with your other suggestions...12 to 14" wrenches are a
little smal for 3/4 & 1" joints

cheers
Bob

If you can find a Schrader valve to pipe fitting, a bicycle or car tire
pump would do fine.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
May be time for me to invest in an air compressor. Wonder if bubble / leak
testing can be reliably accomplished with a cheap pump of some type?


"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.

Bob

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope
I
was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



"Lawrence" wrote in message
ups.com...

Smarty wrote:
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very
much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this
case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it
apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe
from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries
since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.

"Bob F" wrote in message
. ..
I watched the gas companys contractors install gas pipe
for a furnace and watet heater. They used pipe dope and
overtightened everything. They really reefed on the wrench
as they tightened each joint.

You could pressure test each section as you go. Pressurize
with air, and check for leaks with soap water.


Also, if you do use tape, be careful that you don't overlap the
end of the pipe with it. Shreads of tape can plug up jets in burners.

Bob

In article ,
Smarty wrote:
Thanks Lawrence,

Now I wonder if tape is a better choice than the goopy joint pipe dope I was
thinking of using?????

Smarty



There's almost some religious wars with the tape vs dope thing, really
either is fine. Don't get the wrong impression from what some of the
other posters have said here; pipe dope or pipe tape serves as a
lubricant to allow the pipe threads to be turned together properly.
The threaded end of iron pipe is also tapered, that's why it gets so
much harder to turn the further it is tightened. It is indeed the
threads that seal the pipe joint, but you can't count on a sound, non
leaking joint without _both_ using dope or tape, _and_ torquing the
pipe threads adequately.

If you do decide to use pipe tape, make sure you get some that is
rated for gas. It is usually yellow instead of white, and if your work
is being inspected that's what the inspector will likely check for.


--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland -

Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2006-11-09, Smarty wrote:

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each
segment could be independently tightened. I have not seen
professionals use this approach, so I am guessing this is not a
great solution.....

In my building code, unions are only allowed "adjacent to accessible
equipment". That is, if you hard pipe an appliance, you can use a
union for the final connection. Otherwise, unions are out. You can
use a left/right coupling, though.

Cheers, Wayne


Locating unions only at equipment is also a a requirement of our local
gas provider.

Dope vs tape.

Both work fine IF applied properly. The difference is that dope can just be
slathered on until it fills the threads, more or less. As you assemble &
tighten, it moves around to fill voids.

Tape must be applied using enough turns to acheive a tight seal and "...how
much is that?" you may ask. Two turns...maybe four turns...maybe ?? The
answer comes with experience and experience is what you don't have much of,
yet. This is why dope is better for you, for now.

Now, for 1" pipe you gonna need some bigger wrenches and some muscle. I'm
thinkin 20" ones. They'll also be OK for the smaller pipes. Don't be too
concerned about too tight. Pipe can take quite a bit of torque. You've
never seen a skinny plumber.

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like there
is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint
and then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a
smart or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the
opposite end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This
may be the correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach
suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment
could be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this
approach, so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)

Lawrence wrote:

Smarty wrote:

At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?


Since you are a newbie don't be surprised if you have to take it apart
and start over. At least your pipe is all threaded and correctly
sized.

Tightening the pipe is not the solution to avoiding or correcting
leaks. You should be using pipe tape which is wrapped aroung the
thread on the male end . It is this tape which prevents the pipe from
leaking not tightening it more or less.

So if you use the tape correctly you will have far fewer worries since
the tape that does the job not the threads on the pipe. You cant be
too safe when installing a gas line so be sure to double check each
joint before leaving the gas on.


That is incorrect. Teflon tape that is designed for gas lines
can be used, but it is not the best choice for the job. Pipe
dope is best for a couple of reasons. Teflon tape has a
tendency to shred into the pipe and becomes stuck in orifices
which can cause failures in gas appliances. Teflon tape does
not seal as such, but actually makes tightening the fitting
easier due to the lubricating properties of teflon. The
actual seal is from the pipe threads tightening against each
other.

Pipe dope is your best bet, and a large pipe wrench.

Try this: take a piece of pipe and an old fitting. Using
large pipe wrenches, tighten the two together until something
breaks. You will find that this is not easy to do, if you can
do it at all. It is easier with the smaller sizes of course,
but still not too easy. Point is, it is VERY HARD to
overtighten a fitting. The major problem is getting the
fitting oriented correctly.

Having run miles of threaded pipe in my lifetime, I tighten
the hell out of everything and rarely have leaks. You can
test with the gas pressure itself. It is better to use an air
test, but there are a lot of things to do to perform an air
pressure test correctly.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

"Robert Allison" wrote in message news:cS05h.5
Try this: take a piece of pipe and an old fitting. Using
large pipe wrenches, tighten the two together until something
breaks. You will find that this is not easy to do, if you can
do it at all. It is easier with the smaller sizes of course,
but still not too easy. Point is, it is VERY HARD to
overtighten a fitting. The major problem is getting the
fitting oriented correctly.

Having run miles of threaded pipe in my lifetime, I tighten
the hell out of everything and rarely have leaks. You can
test with the gas pressure itself. It is better to use an air
test, but there are a lot of things to do to perform an air
pressure test correctly.

But then again, it's required for the inspection where I live.

Bob

Bob F wrote:
"Robert Allison" wrote in message news:cS05h.5

Try this: take a piece of pipe and an old fitting. Using
large pipe wrenches, tighten the two together until something
breaks. You will find that this is not easy to do, if you can
do it at all. It is easier with the smaller sizes of course,
but still not too easy. Point is, it is VERY HARD to
overtighten a fitting. The major problem is getting the
fitting oriented correctly.

Having run miles of threaded pipe in my lifetime, I tighten
the hell out of everything and rarely have leaks. You can
test with the gas pressure itself. It is better to use an air
test, but there are a lot of things to do to perform an air
pressure test correctly.


But then again, it's required for the inspection where I live.

Bob



Yes, if it is being inspected it must be air tested. But in
that case, the inspector will also require a licensed
installer. This guy is doing this himself.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

I now have a totally finished gas line installation and no signs of leaks
anywhere. I purchased (at the recommendation of this newsgroup) a gas leak
detector and also did bubble testing and all seems to be working superbly.
Using long 20 inch wrenches and the right joint dope seemed to do the job
without any issues.

I want to thank you very kind and extremely helpful folks for all of your
assistance.

Smarty


"Robert Allison" wrote in message
news:1Le5h.201$v93.26@trnddc06...
Bob F wrote:
"Robert Allison" wrote in message news:cS05h.5

Try this: take a piece of pipe and an old fitting. Using
large pipe wrenches, tighten the two together until something
breaks. You will find that this is not easy to do, if you can
do it at all. It is easier with the smaller sizes of course,
but still not too easy. Point is, it is VERY HARD to
overtighten a fitting. The major problem is getting the
fitting oriented correctly.

Having run miles of threaded pipe in my lifetime, I tighten
the hell out of everything and rarely have leaks. You can
test with the gas pressure itself. It is better to use an air
test, but there are a lot of things to do to perform an air
pressure test correctly.


But then again, it's required for the inspection where I live.

Bob



Yes, if it is being inspected it must be air tested. But in that case,
the inspector will also require a licensed installer. This guy is doing
this himself.

--
Robert Allison Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

"Robert Allison" wrote in message
news:1Le5h.201$v93.26@trnddc06...
Bob F wrote:
"Robert Allison" wrote in message news:cS05h.5

Try this: take a piece of pipe and an old fitting. Using
large pipe wrenches, tighten the two together until something
breaks. You will find that this is not easy to do, if you can
do it at all. It is easier with the smaller sizes of course,
but still not too easy. Point is, it is VERY HARD to
overtighten a fitting. The major problem is getting the
fitting oriented correctly.

Having run miles of threaded pipe in my lifetime, I tighten
the hell out of everything and rarely have leaks. You can
test with the gas pressure itself. It is better to use an air
test, but there are a lot of things to do to perform an air
pressure test correctly.


But then again, it's required for the inspection where I live.

Bob



Yes, if it is being inspected it must be air tested. But in
that case, the inspector will also require a licensed
installer. This guy is doing this himself.


I did it myself, and the inspector didn't have any problems
with it. In fact, he was my best source of info on how to
do it and how to test it properly.

Bob

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:
The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
2 you should always undersize the wrench because u can over tighten the pipe
and stretch out the fitting. Unless you are working with 3 inch pipe or bigger
there is never a need for a 4 inch pipe. If there is a leak you can use a
left/right nipple and coupling to use as a breaking point. Also you cant use
tape on a gas thread except for the yellow tape because all other stuff is
flamable. Also it is only going to be about a pound of pressure in the line so
dope or rectorseal or permabond is more than enough

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ie-164518-.htm

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 10:44:04 AM UTC-5, fyou2 wrote:
replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:
The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.

Better tell that to my gas company. There are unions at the meter.




2 you should always undersize the wrench because u can over tighten the pipe
and stretch out the fitting. Unless you are working with 3 inch pipe or bigger
there is never a need for a 4 inch pipe.

Who could argue with that logic? Plus, you see many folks there on
Home Moaners Hub working with 3"+ gas pipe?



If there is a leak you can use a
left/right nipple and coupling to use as a breaking point. Also you cant use
tape on a gas thread except for the yellow tape because all other stuff is
flamable.

I thought the only difference was that yellow tape was thicker than
white. And I don't see how flammability is an issue anyway.

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.

for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ie-164518-.htm


Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

On 11/29/2016 10:16 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
....

Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

Not to mention their "advice" is generally as this one just nonsense,
anyway...

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 12:41:13 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:

On 11/29/2016 10:16 AM, wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
...

Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

Not to mention their "advice" is generally as this one just nonsense,
anyway...


Yep. Makes you wonder if those folks on that ridiculous site can
even screw in a light bulb correctly.

On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 12:48:23 -0800 (PST), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 12:41:13 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:

On 11/29/2016 10:16 AM, wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
...

Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

Not to mention their "advice" is generally as this one just nonsense,
anyway...


Yep. Makes you wonder if those folks on that ridiculous site can
even screw in a light bulb correctly.

Red Green, and later myself were filtered from the home groaners hub.
They never see or reply to advice given. The site is for click bait
used by those that can't or do not participate in Usenet. They search
online and find the site that makes money from posters. In essence,
not given credit to the advisors. The site ports into Usenet and
makes money. Yet people still reply. I poke 'em in the eye now and
then just for giggles but they never see it.

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 3:23:18 PM UTC-6, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 12:48:23 -0800 (PST), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 12:41:13 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:

On 11/29/2016 10:16 AM, wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
...

Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

Not to mention their "advice" is generally as this one just nonsense,
anyway...


Yep. Makes you wonder if those folks on that ridiculous site can
even screw in a light bulb correctly.

Red Green, and later myself were filtered from the home groaners hub.
They never see or reply to advice given. The site is for click bait
used by those that can't or do not participate in Usenet. They search
online and find the site that makes money from posters. In essence,
not given credit to the advisors. The site ports into Usenet and
makes money. Yet people still reply. I poke 'em in the eye now and
then just for giggles but they never see it.

I wonder if they filtered me because I write of the tragic loss of life and the sad lonely gerbils? _(ツ)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Gerbil Monster

trader_4 posted for all of us...



On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 10:44:04 AM UTC-5, fyou2 wrote:
replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:
The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.

Better tell that to my gas company. There are unions at the meter.




2 you should always undersize the wrench because u can over tighten the pipe
and stretch out the fitting. Unless you are working with 3 inch pipe or bigger
there is never a need for a 4 inch pipe.

Who could argue with that logic? Plus, you see many folks there on
Home Moaners Hub working with 3"+ gas pipe?



If there is a leak you can use a
left/right nipple and coupling to use as a breaking point. Also you cant use
tape on a gas thread except for the yellow tape because all other stuff is
flamable.

I thought the only difference was that yellow tape was thicker than
white. And I don't see how flammability is an issue anyway.

+1

--
Tekkie

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 3:23:18 PM UTC-6, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 29 Nov 2016 12:48:23 -0800 (PST), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 12:41:13 PM UTC-6, dpb wrote:

On 11/29/2016 10:16 AM, wrote:

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-6, fyou2 wrote:

replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:

The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.
...

Don't you just love these dopes from HomeMoanersHub who jump right
into TEN YEAR OLD THREADS and answer just like the original poster
is still hanging around waiting on them to show up with a solution?

Not to mention their "advice" is generally as this one just nonsense,
anyway...


Yep. Makes you wonder if those folks on that ridiculous site can
even screw in a light bulb correctly.

Red Green, and later myself were filtered from the home groaners hub.
They never see or reply to advice given. The site is for click bait
used by those that can't or do not participate in Usenet. They search
online and find the site that makes money from posters. In essence,
not given credit to the advisors. The site ports into Usenet and
makes money. Yet people still reply. I poke 'em in the eye now and
then just for giggles but they never see it.

I wonder if they filtered me because I write of the tragic loss of life and the sad lonely gerbils? _(?)_/¯

[8~{} Uncle Gerbil Monster

They don't care about you but the gerbils are their members. All they have
to do is teach them how to type.

--
Tekkie

On Tuesday, November 29, 2016 at 10:44:04 AM UTC-5, fyou2 wrote:
replying to Eric in North TX, fyou2 wrote:
The pros dont use unions because it is against code to use unions on gas pipe.

Better tell that to my gas company. There are unions at the meter.

Yes, so the meter can be replaced or at the dryer after the valve. You
won't find them on the main runs though, just couplings or larger pipe
may be welded.