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bill allemann bill allemann is offline
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Default Gas pipe tightening question from a newbie

I made a test rig using a cap fitting, and tapped a hole through it for a
schrader (air) valve so you can connect any air compressor, tire pump,
whatever. When a tee or elbow is added on a run, I cap it off and
pressurize the piping to that point, leak test, etc. The idea is that an
elbow or tee can't be rotated later. When you know the run is good to that
point, you can add another segment.
Really high amounts of torque aren't a guarantee that the joint will be
tight. I'm thinking it has more to do with getting the pipe dope pressed
thoroughly into the (clean) male threads, so it is drawn into the joint
correctly.
I don't go all that tight, but one of your posts
mentions, I believe, using a 14" wrench on 1" pipe, which seems a little
light. I would maybe use an 18".

Bill

"Smarty" wrote in message
...
At risk of sounding like a total novice (which I am)....I would very much
appreciate guidance regarding tightening gas pipe and connections:

Specifically........if a run of gas pipe is put together, in this case
roughly 65 feet total, with about 15 fittings along the way, and the
finished piping shows leaks in one or more joints once the line is
pressurized, how is tightening best accomplished?

Since rotating a pipe with a wrench to tighten it in a fitting at one end
simultaneously causes the other end of the pipe to now rotate out of the
joint at the other end, perhaps starting a leak there, it seems like there
is no obvious way to tighten a leaking joint without risking another leak.

The alternative, taking the whole thing apart down to the leaking joint
and then rebuilding the entire remaining run also does not seem a like a
smart or efficient method.

It is tempting to "overtighten" each joint initially, on the theory that
backing off on one connection at a leaking end will still keep the
opposite end of the pipe firmly connected after rotating the pipe. This
may be the correct method, but I have not seen or heard this approach
suggested.

Most of the couplings, elbows, and unions I have seen appear to accept at
least a couple full (360 degree rotations) before they snug up.

I thought about putting unions all over the place so that each segment
could be independently tightened. I have not seen professionals use this
approach, so I am guessing this is not a great solution.....


Thanks in advance for any ideas. I am totally clueless..

Smarty (should be called not so Smarty!)