I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia.

In article ,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need
to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used
for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I
moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove
lighter ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

There are custom tools for this - but tend to be expensive due to the
limited production. I use a dual heat paint stripper that came with a
variety of nozzles and shields. Check out the sheds in your area.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote in message
...
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the
Wikipedia.


Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then
apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

In article ,
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

We use Weller's #6966C, which is a small, lightweight gun that comes
with an assortment of heat focusing attachments. There are many, many
heat guns available in a huge array of styles and sizes, check your
solder and tools supplier's catalog.

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

hair dryer.

On May 10, 5:41*pm, "N_Cook" wrote:
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote in ...



I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel *N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the

Wikipedia.

Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then
apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.


AND RUN ...UP WIND !!!!!!

DuPont studies show that the Teflon offgases toxic particulates at
446°F. At 680°F Teflon pans release at least six toxic gases,
including two carcinogens, two global pollutants, and MFA, a chemical
lethal to humans at low doses







--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to
protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum
foil.

However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1310859
which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The
gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently
causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains
hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can
do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices
before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood
board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that
has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult.
I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have
VERY stiff power cords.

High end heat guns, such as:
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1944LCDK
don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but
cost much more than I want to spend (about $150).


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

One workable solution is to use a hair dryer, and block the inlets with a
sock. This causes the outlet temperature to rise to the "shrinking" point.
There's a catch, though... The hair dryer will "overheat" (natch -- that's
the idea) and shut off. If the dryer doesn't have a resettable fuse, you
won't be able to use the dryer again.

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 11:13:26 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do, the HS is defective.

William Sommerwerck wrote:
Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

Yes, but it keeps yelling "Behold the Metatron, Behold the Metatron" and
won't help. :-)


The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

Yes, that's what I found out. Especially if you get too close. Although I used
to have a steady hand, that was a long time ago. It wiggles occasionaly, and
when it does, the flame burns the plastic. :-(

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.

I've never seen one here. Almost all of the construction is stone or concrete
and that kind of paint does not work well on it.

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the Wikipedia.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 11:13:26 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

I've had pretty good luck with butane lighters that are turned way down
(a mere flicker of a blue flame) *IF* they're used on fairly small
shrink tubing. Just keep the hot spot moving and pay attention to what
the tube is doing. Works great with 1/16" shrink tube for single pins
but I do imagine it could be a disaster with large diameters.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be
about perfect for you:

eBay 300417780799

STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN

--Winston

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing.
You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia.
And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.

On 10/05/2010 20:35, Winston wrote:
On 5/10/2010 9:24 AM, Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and
need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding
it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Just as a point of reference, this tool appears to be
about perfect for you:

eBay 300417780799

STEINEL (230 volts) HL1810S HOT AIR/HEAT GUN

--Winston

That`s the one I use, no complaints. It was nowhere near that price tho!

Ron(UK)

Graham wrote:
DuPont studies show that the Teflon offgases toxic particulates at
446°F. At 680°F Teflon pans release at least six toxic gases,
including two carcinogens, two global pollutants, and MFA, a chemical
lethal to humans at low doses

While I was working at TRW, we had one of our technicians
end up in the emergency room from sitting over a cable that
he was using a thermal stripper on.

"Will he be ok?"
"Only time will tell."
"Is there anything you can do for him?"
"Just keep an eye on him."

Of course, I think they should be selling Teflon lined
blunts in the liquor stores.

Jeff


--
“Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity.”
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated
applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with
a very rubbery covering.

These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate
current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle
irons and similar units.
These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real
rubber, not plastic.

I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are
so stiff they keep their original bends even after use.
I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use
because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage
cord.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
Hot air gun with an assortment of tips and adapters. If you need to
protect other components, just block the air flow with some aluminum
foil.

However, one stupid problem. I bought two ACE Hardware hot air guns:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1310859
which work well enough. However, the power cord is VERY stiff. The
gun is quite light and the spring tension of the cord frequently
causes the gun to move when placed on the table. As the tip remains
hot for quite some time, having it move by itself around the table can
do some serious damage. I've ruined the plastic on several devices
before I was forced to build a holder (tin can screwed to a wood
board). Normally, I would normally suggest finding a hot air gun that
has a reasonably flexible power cord, but that seems to be difficult.
I've looked at various equivalent hot air guns and all seem to have
VERY stiff power cords.

High end heat guns, such as:
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=1944LCDK
don't have this problem, and add much better temperature control, but
cost much more than I want to spend (about $150).


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

I use a Bosch 1500W paint stripper gun on low for the last 30 years or so

Nameplate rating says low is 320'C at 240l/m. It can be a little too hot
if one brings the heatshrink too close.

I've not had much luck with a flame, tends to scorch the heatshrink.

Grant.
--
http://bugs.id.au/

On Mon, 10 May 2010 17:06:51 -0400, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

If you're referring to 2-wire AC power cords for double-insulated
applications, you might want to look around for cooking appliance cords with
a very rubbery covering.

The rubber (RHW or RHH) cords seem to work best. Unfortunately, most
cheap plastic cords have an intergrated strain relief molded into the
plastic, making replacement with a different type of cord rather
tedious.

These are a specific type of heat resistant cord, intended for moderate
current (not light duty) heat generating appliances like roasters, waffle
irons and similar units.
These cords wouldn't get stiff even if placed in a freezer.. like real
rubber, not plastic.

Good idea. I have a roll of 3 conductor 14AWG RHW for replacing power
tool cords and extension cords. I never thought of using it for
kitchen appliances.

Ummm... why would I put something electrical in the freezer? Never
mind, I don't want to know.

I'm regularly annoyed by various types of signal connecting cords that are
so stiff they keep their original bends even after use.
I keep finding USB and video or low voltage cords that are a nuisance to use
because they're extremely rigid, more like poly air hose than a low voltage
cord.

Yep. Same problem. There's a customer perception that a thicker cord
somehow signifies a high power or high current device. It's common
for laser printers and copiers to arrive with huge diameter cords,
that are mostly plastic, not copper. Compared to the common power
cord of half the diameter, the wire guages inside are identical. Of
course, the added plastic makes them rigid, inflexible, difficult to
manage, and impossible to coil.

With video and USB, the problem is not the plastic but the shielding.
There's no easy way to provide superior shielding and still have a
flexible cord. Braid is more flexible than foil, but foil has better
coverage. The exception is non-wicking braid, where the plastic
jacket is molded into the braid, which can be used to hammer nails.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 10 May 2010 21:50:08 +0200, Sjouke Burry
wrote:

Whatever way you heat it, use teflon shrinck tubing.
You cant increase its blackness, and it shrinks to 1/3rd dia.
And does not melt/burn until over 450 degree Celcius.

350C for most PTFE formulations. 450C will set paper on fire.
The shrink ratio varies from 2:1 to 4:1.

The stuff gave me problems until I finally read the instructions.
There are different types, that require different temperatures, cool
down periods, and handling:
http://www.texloc.com/hs_home.html
See the various "how to shrink" sections at the bottom.

However, the results are worth the effort. The PTFE tubing is far
more flexible after shrinking. With a 4:1 shrink diameter ratio, I
have few fit problems. However, I found that it becomes brittle when
overheated or cooled to quickly. Going too slowly is also a potential
fire hazard when working with flammable cables.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

One workable solution is to use a hair dryer, and block the inlets with a
sock. This causes the outlet temperature to rise to the "shrinking" point.
There's a catch, though... The hair dryer will "overheat" (natch -- that's
the idea) and shut off. If the dryer doesn't have a resettable fuse, you
won't be able to use the dryer again.

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
$19.99 regular price. On sale for $9.99 at times.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed,
well above what a lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters,
in particular, will burn the tubing before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do,
the HS is defective.

Not likely. A hair dryer hot enough to fully shrink tubing would probably
burn your scalp.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:51:06 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed,
well above what a lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters,
in particular, will burn the tubing before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do,
the HS is defective.

Not likely. A hair dryer hot enough to fully shrink tubing would probably
burn your scalp.

Maybe HS has has changed recently or perhaps blow dryers are wimpier
now being designed for people too stupid to hold it at a reasonable
distance.
I only use the stuff occasionally and haven't in about 7 years.
Previously, I never had any trouble using a blow dryer.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

I use the soldering iron barrel, not the tip.


Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 17:41:54 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote in message
...
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the
Wikipedia.


Wrap the tip of (old) soldering iron with some plumber's PTFE tape and then
apply the iron directly to the tubing or use a replacment tip , so adapted.

I just use the clean part of the tip where it has a broad tapper to
the main body. An iron has to be in contact not wafted around in the
vicinity, just rub it up and down the sleeve while rotating the wire
1/2 turn each way. An 11w 1mm tip iron will do nicely on heat shrink
for joints in single core auto wire. 1/2" is going to need something a
bit more powerful, 80w 1/4"?
--
Peter Hill
Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header
Can of worms - what every fisherman wants.
Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

In article , wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.



The old BIC will work fine if you got the touch.
There is also a BIC gun, actually one of those slim lighters.

There is a cheap tool out there. Its like a big soldering iron.
Blows maybe 300 watts with a small footprint. The Ungar
I have been using for 25 years has steadily gon up in price,
over $100. Rediculous. Something like shown on this page,
as well as all the rest.
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/HeatGuns/heatguns.htm

I paid $20 for mine at a local hardware store.
I still had money for a beer.


greg

On Mon, 10 May 2010 19:59:30 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:51:06 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed,
well above what a lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters,
in particular, will burn the tubing before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do,
the HS is defective.

Not likely. A hair dryer hot enough to fully shrink tubing would
probably burn your scalp.

Maybe HS has has changed recently or perhaps blow dryers are wimpier
now being designed for people too stupid to hold it at a reasonable
distance.
I only use the stuff occasionally and haven't in about 7 years.
Previously, I never had any trouble using a blow dryer.

I use a pistol-style hair dryer _plus_ a 'cup' formed from several
layers of aluminum foil. Create the cup using the barrel of the blow
dryer as the form -- making it with 2 slots running down opposite sides.
Lay the splice/whatever on the bottom of the cups with the wire(s)
entering through the slot(s). Use by placing the blow dryer just part
way into the cup -- allowing the "blow" to flow out of the cup. (Use a
blow dryer with a bimetal overheat reset -- not an overheat fuse.)

WFM

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

Over here in the northeast, we have cold weather, and cheap vinyl cords get
almost as stiff as metal tubing. Cords used outdoors, or left in a car can
be annoying.
We keep cords in a freezer (along with batteries) to preserve the juice
that's still left in them for the next use.

Low voltage accessory cords with excessive/oversize plastic insulation are
one aggravation, but thin stiff cords (even test leads) are what I was
referring to. Hard plastics don't belong on these types of cables, although
the formula may be cheaper to produce.
A new set of test leads that came with an older model of Tektronix TekMeter
LCD scopemeter consisting of 4 leads, 3 were soft, but the red one was
semi-rigid.

Vintage cables are often stiffer after 20-30 years, and I suppose that's to
be expected, but new cables should be relatively soft.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...

The rubber (RHW or RHH) cords seem to work best. Unfortunately, most
cheap plastic cords have an intergrated strain relief molded into the
plastic, making replacement with a different type of cord rather
tedious.

Good idea. I have a roll of 3 conductor 14AWG RHW for replacing power
tool cords and extension cords. I never thought of using it for
kitchen appliances.

Ummm... why would I put something electrical in the freezer? Never
mind, I don't want to know.

Yep. Same problem. There's a customer perception that a thicker cord
somehow signifies a high power or high current device. It's common
for laser printers and copiers to arrive with huge diameter cords,
that are mostly plastic, not copper. Compared to the common power
cord of half the diameter, the wire guages inside are identical. Of
course, the added plastic makes them rigid, inflexible, difficult to
manage, and impossible to coil.

With video and USB, the problem is not the plastic but the shielding.
There's no easy way to provide superior shielding and still have a
flexible cord. Braid is more flexible than foil, but foil has better
coverage. The exception is non-wicking braid, where the plastic
jacket is molded into the braid, which can be used to hammer nails.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

A new set of test leads that came with an older model
of Tektronix TekMeter LCD scopemeter consisting of
4 leads, 3 were soft, but the red one was semi-rigid.

Vintage cables are often stiffer after 20-30 years, and
I suppose that's to be expected, but new cables should
be relatively soft.

Perhaps the plasticizer would have unacceptably altered the color.

In article ,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need
to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used
for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I
moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove
lighter ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Other way is a hot air re-work station. Mine can be set at a low enough
temp. But it's an expensive way to do it.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article , "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need
to shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used
for removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I
moved here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove
lighter ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

Other way is a hot air re-work station. Mine can be set at a low enough
temp. But it's an expensive way to do it.


I have used mine, but the small area is only good for small shrink.
i also melt hot melt glue sometimes, and melt hot melt inside
the shrink. The edges need touched up at times.
The Ungar heat gun is about 350 watts and produces a 600 degree
temp at the tip. I have shrunk 2-3 inch shrink, no problem.

greg

That may be the case, William. Do you know of a product that will soften the
vinyl or PVC on low voltage wire/cables?

--
WB
..........


"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
...
A new set of test leads that came with an older model
of Tektronix TekMeter LCD scopemeter consisting of
4 leads, 3 were soft, but the red one was semi-rigid.

Vintage cables are often stiffer after 20-30 years, and
I suppose that's to be expected, but new cables should
be relatively soft.

Perhaps the plasticizer would have unacceptably altered the color.

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:

Isn't there a burning bush in your vicinity?

The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed, well above what a
lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters, in particular, will burn the tubing
before shrinking it.

One workable solution is to use a hair dryer, and block the inlets with a
sock. This causes the outlet temperature to rise to the "shrinking" point.
There's a catch, though... The hair dryer will "overheat" (natch -- that's
the idea) and shut off. If the dryer doesn't have a resettable fuse, you
won't be able to use the dryer again.

A few years ago I bought an inexpensive heat gun, which worked well. A bit
of scrounging might turn one up.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
$19.99 regular price. On sale for $9.99 at times.


I received their weekly e-mail right after I posted. It is on sale
for $7.99 with the coupon below:

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/html...7/images/2.jpg


Here is the user manual:

http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...6999/96289.pdf


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Mon, 10 May 2010 19:59:30 -0500, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:51:06 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
The problem is that fairly high temperatures are needed,
well above what a lighter or hair dryer put out. Lighters,
in particular, will burn the tubing before shrinking it.

If you need more heat than what a blow dryer will do,
the HS is defective.

Not likely. A hair dryer hot enough to fully shrink tubing would
probably burn your scalp.

Maybe HS has has changed recently or perhaps blow dryers are wimpier
now being designed for people too stupid to hold it at a reasonable
distance.
I only use the stuff occasionally and haven't in about 7 years.
Previously, I never had any trouble using a blow dryer.

I use a pistol-style hair dryer _plus_ a 'cup' formed from several
layers of aluminum foil. Create the cup using the barrel of the blow
dryer as the form -- making it with 2 slots running down opposite sides.
Lay the splice/whatever on the bottom of the cups with the wire(s)
entering through the slot(s). Use by placing the blow dryer just part
way into the cup -- allowing the "blow" to flow out of the cup. (Use a
blow dryer with a bimetal overheat reset -- not an overheat fuse.)


http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...kit-95301.html
$7.99 for a set of four nozzles & five tools for their heat guns


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

I don't have problems shrinking the tubing with a disposable lighter, most
of the time. If the tubing is far enough away from the tubing, it usually
won't leave any soot marks on it, but the soot marks can generally be wiped
away on light colored tubing with lacquer thinner/acetone.

A hot air tool for surface mount solder reflow is an effective method (but
not cheap), especially for multi-pin connectors where the heat can be
directed to a very limited area by the small tip (the reverse of a
desoldering iron, esentially).

For larger tubing, the smooth area of a stainless steel soldering iron works
(slowly) by lightly rubbing the hot barrel around on the tubing.

Other than using shrink tubing, there is a product referred to as Liquid
Tape, which can be applied with a brush or other utensil.

--
WB
..........


"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote in message
...
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it
over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
New word I coined 12/13/09, "Sub-Wikipedia" adj, describing knowledge or
understanding, as in he has a sub-wikipedia understanding of the
situation.
i.e possessing less facts or information than can be found in the
Wikipedia.

In article ,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
just hold it over the top.

The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
above the top of the flame.


Mark Zenier
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

I always use a kitchen match, a wood match about 3 inches long. A
couple boxes of them are very cheap.

It usually comes out perfect. Sometimes I need to use more than one
match to make it tight.

Once in a while I burn the tubing a little, but it's never seemed to
weaken it. I'm sure I only turn the surface black.

I hold the wires horizontal and move the match back and forth, with
the tubing within the flame, the match 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the
tubing. It shrinks quickly.

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

On Tue, 11 May 2010 22:48:56 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Mon, 10 May 2010 16:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
wrote:

I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

I always use a kitchen match, a wood match about 3 inches long. A
couple boxes of them are very cheap.

It usually comes out perfect. Sometimes I need to use more than one
match to make it tight.

Once in a while I burn the tubing a little, but it's never seemed to
weaken it. I'm sure I only turn the surface black.

I guess this is just soot from the match, based on a couple other
posts. Need I clean it off?

I hold the wires horizontal and move the match back and forth, with
the tubing within the flame, the match 1/2 to 3/4 inch below the
tubing. It shrinks quickly.

I've finished reading the thread and it's amazing to me the problems
some have. I didn't want to use a hair dryer because I didnt' want to
heat more than the tubing and I don't like the noise.

Maybe you all don't have kitchen matches so you've never tried them?

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.


Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

On Tue, 11 May 2010 19:41:59 GMT, (Mark Zenier)
wrote:

For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
just hold it over the top.

Isn't there an interlock in the toaster that checks if there's a slab
of toast inside before it will turn on? I'm not sure I want to insert
a slice of bread for every shrink tube joint.

The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
above the top of the flame.

I always manage to char the shrink tube joint when I do it that way.
It's not the heat that's causing the blackening. It's that the
burning ligher fluid is too low in temperature for complete combustion
and therefore dumps plenty of soot on the shrink tube. You can
demonstrate it for yourself by burning a lighter under a plate of
glass. The distance doesn't matter. You'll always get plenty of
soot.

If you must use a flame, use a propane torch. Instead of 2 inches,
about 1-2 ft is about right. Don't hold onto the wire as you're
likely to burn yourself. Work very quickly and be prepared to react
if the wire or workbench catches fire.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote On 2010-05-12 21:38:
On Tue, 11 May 2010 19:41:59 GMT, (Mark Zenier)
wrote:

For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
just hold it over the top.

Isn't there an interlock in the toaster that checks if there's a slab
of toast inside before it will turn on? I'm not sure I want to insert
a slice of bread for every shrink tube joint.

The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
above the top of the flame.

I always manage to char the shrink tube joint when I do it that way.
It's not the heat that's causing the blackening. It's that the
burning ligher fluid is too low in temperature for complete combustion
and therefore dumps plenty of soot on the shrink tube. You can
demonstrate it for yourself by burning a lighter under a plate of
glass. The distance doesn't matter. You'll always get plenty of
soot.

If you must use a flame, use a propane torch. Instead of 2 inches,
about 1-2 ft is about right. Don't hold onto the wire as you're
likely to burn yourself. Work very quickly and be prepared to react
if the wire or workbench catches fire.


My favorite method for shrinking shrink tubing is either ye olde lighter
at 1 to 2 " distance, or the part of your soldering iron the tip fits
into. Keep the heat source in motion, and no longer than is necessary
for good shrinkage.

Also, have spare bits and pieces to practice on, it can take a bit to
get the hang of a new soldering iron or station. I don't recommend the
lighter trick for anything else than small jobs, prototypes or repairs.

Just my $.02 worth.

/Teo.
--
Teodor Väänänen | Don't meddle in the affairs of wizards,
| for you are good and crunchy with
http://www.algonet.se/~teodor/ | ketchup.
Remove stupidity to reply. |

Mark Zenier wrote:

In article ,
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
I've recently started doing electronic repairs (mostly wiring) and need to
shrink heat shrink tubing. A long time ago I bought a heat gun used for
removing paint and used that. It was 120 volt, so I left it when I moved
here.

I've never had much luck (or is it patience?) shrinking it by holding it over
a soldering iron tip. Using a flame, like a cigarette or stove lighter
ends up with burnt plastic. :-)

Is there such a thing as a small heat shrink tube shrinker that does not
toast the things around it? The largest thing I need to shrink over is
about 1/2 an inch most of them are small (20awg or less) wires.

For cable assemblies, I've found that nothing beats a Sunbeam toaster.
Turns itself off, too. You don't have to put it down into the slot,
just hold it over the top.

The trick with lighters is to keep the shrink about 1 1/2 to 2 inches
above the top of the flame.


Have you ever tried using one of the old 'Hot air popcorn poppers'
that were popular about 15 years ago? There were used ones at flea
markets for years, often in the 25 to 50 cent price range. Once you
removed a few screws, the plastic case came apart leaving you a small
forced air heater.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.