Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

To be honest, it started happening but if you left it for 30 mins it
would then work OK (capacitor charging?). Now thought theres nothing.

My wife insists though that occasionally the dryer stopped half way
through. I know its a reverse action so I was wondering if this could
be explained by the motor needing to stop and then restart in the
opposite direction (using the capacitor).

Any ideas ?

"paulfoel" wrote in message
oups.com...

Any ideas ?

None at all ..... but the drum's knackered in ours (makes one hell of a
clunk on each revolution))
So if you're scrapping it .......

;-)


--

J B

paulfoel wrote:
Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

To be honest, it started happening but if you left it for 30 mins it
would then work OK (capacitor charging?). Now thought theres nothing.

My wife insists though that occasionally the dryer stopped half way
through. I know its a reverse action so I was wondering if this could
be explained by the motor needing to stop and then restart in the
opposite direction (using the capacitor).

Any ideas ?

You might want to ask on a.e.electrical - as it is more an electrical
problem than electronics or diy.

I'm not sure what type of motor this machine has - but would go looking
for brush-holders and worn brushes. BICBW

--
Sue

In article .com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

To be honest, it started happening but if you left it for 30 mins it
would then work OK (capacitor charging?). Now thought theres nothing.

My wife insists though that occasionally the dryer stopped half way
through. I know its a reverse action so I was wondering if this could
be explained by the motor needing to stop and then restart in the
opposite direction (using the capacitor).

Any ideas ?

The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

--
Andrew Gabriel

J B wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
oups.com...

Any ideas ?

None at all ..... but the drum's knackered in ours (makes one hell of a
clunk on each revolution))
So if you're scrapping it .......

;-)

If I can't fix ours, you're quite welcome to the drum out of mine (if
you pay for the postage!)

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article .com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

To be honest, it started happening but if you left it for 30 mins it
would then work OK (capacitor charging?). Now thought theres nothing.

My wife insists though that occasionally the dryer stopped half way
through. I know its a reverse action so I was wondering if this could
be explained by the motor needing to stop and then restart in the
opposite direction (using the capacitor).

Any ideas ?

The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

--
Andrew Gabriel

8 micro Farrad

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...

If I can't fix ours, you're quite welcome to the drum out of mine (if
you pay for the postage!)

Where are you?


--

J B (N.E Shropshire)

J B wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...

If I can't fix ours, you're quite welcome to the drum out of mine (if
you pay for the postage!)

Where are you?


Newport, S. Wales

On 21 Dec 2005 02:28:32 -0800, "paulfoel"
wrote:

Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

Dunno what type of motor would be fitted.

It could be the capacitor (If it has one). They dry out over a period
of time and go open/short circuit. You should be able to get a new one
for £3 to £4.

If the motor has brushes these could be worn, or the corresponding
commutator dirty.

sponix

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

8 micro Farrad

So that's an impedance of 398 ohms at 50Hz, so a 60W 240V lamp
in series should be around half brightness if the capacitor is
working. If it's not working, lamp will be fully on or fully
off (depending on the capacitor's failure mode).

If you need a new capacitor, one source would be an electrical
wholesaler, who will stock them as power factor correction
capacitors for fluorscent fittings and HID lamps.

Actually, just checked CPC catalogue, and there are a few
designated as motor run capacitors...
CA00003 @ £3.95 (metal case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00010 @ £3.35 (plastic case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00019 @ £3.65 (plastic case, flying leads).
All these are 8µF, 440VAC (which is fine for mains),
with a mounting stud on the base.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

8 micro Farrad

So that's an impedance of 398 ohms at 50Hz, so a 60W 240V lamp
in series should be around half brightness if the capacitor is
working. If it's not working, lamp will be fully on or fully
off (depending on the capacitor's failure mode).

If you need a new capacitor, one source would be an electrical
wholesaler, who will stock them as power factor correction
capacitors for fluorscent fittings and HID lamps.

Actually, just checked CPC catalogue, and there are a few
designated as motor run capacitors...
CA00003 @ £3.95 (metal case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00010 @ £3.35 (plastic case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00019 @ £3.65 (plastic case, flying leads).
All these are 8µF, 440VAC (which is fine for mains),
with a mounting stud on the base.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Whats the difference between a motor run and a motor start capacitor ?

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

8 micro Farrad

So that's an impedance of 398 ohms at 50Hz, so a 60W 240V lamp
in series should be around half brightness if the capacitor is
working. If it's not working, lamp will be fully on or fully
off (depending on the capacitor's failure mode).

If you need a new capacitor, one source would be an electrical
wholesaler, who will stock them as power factor correction
capacitors for fluorscent fittings and HID lamps.

Actually, just checked CPC catalogue, and there are a few
designated as motor run capacitors...
CA00003 @ £3.95 (metal case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00010 @ £3.35 (plastic case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00019 @ £3.65 (plastic case, flying leads).
All these are 8µF, 440VAC (which is fine for mains),
with a mounting stud on the base.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Whats the difference between a motor run and a motor start capacitor ?

None... the difference is the motor the capacitors are the same.

powerstation wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

8 micro Farrad

So that's an impedance of 398 ohms at 50Hz, so a 60W 240V lamp
in series should be around half brightness if the capacitor is
working. If it's not working, lamp will be fully on or fully
off (depending on the capacitor's failure mode).

If you need a new capacitor, one source would be an electrical
wholesaler, who will stock them as power factor correction
capacitors for fluorscent fittings and HID lamps.

Actually, just checked CPC catalogue, and there are a few
designated as motor run capacitors...
CA00003 @ £3.95 (metal case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00010 @ £3.35 (plastic case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00019 @ £3.65 (plastic case, flying leads).
All these are 8µF, 440VAC (which is fine for mains),
with a mounting stud on the base.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Whats the difference between a motor run and a motor start capacitor ?

None... the difference is the motor the capacitors are the same.

Bugger. Just paid £12 inc delivery of £6 for a motor start capacitor
online. Could have got a motor run capacitor of the same for £4 in
maplins.

"paulfoel" wrote in message
oups.com...

powerstation wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
The capacitor is easy to test. What rating is written on it?
Assuming it's a mains one, connect it in series with a mains
light bulb (something between 40W and 100W), and the light
should come on, but not as bright running directly off the
mains. Beware in case the capacitor case has become live in
some internal failure.

However, the nature of the fault you describe sounds to me
more like a broken motor winding. Capacitors don't usually
fail intermitently.

8 micro Farrad

So that's an impedance of 398 ohms at 50Hz, so a 60W 240V lamp
in series should be around half brightness if the capacitor is
working. If it's not working, lamp will be fully on or fully
off (depending on the capacitor's failure mode).

If you need a new capacitor, one source would be an electrical
wholesaler, who will stock them as power factor correction
capacitors for fluorscent fittings and HID lamps.

Actually, just checked CPC catalogue, and there are a few
designated as motor run capacitors...
CA00003 @ £3.95 (metal case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00010 @ £3.35 (plastic case, 1/4" tabs),
CA00019 @ £3.65 (plastic case, flying leads).
All these are 8µF, 440VAC (which is fine for mains),
with a mounting stud on the base.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Whats the difference between a motor run and a motor start capacitor ?

None... the difference is the motor the capacitors are the same.

Bugger. Just paid £12 inc delivery of £6 for a motor start capacitor
online. Could have got a motor run capacitor of the same for £4 in
maplins.

The White Knight is a run capacitor system i.e. the start and run windings
are both energized when the motor is running. A capacitor start motor is
usually much bigger and has a means of disconnecting the start winding and
capacitor once the motor is running, either by the starter or a centrifugal
switch.

mf5055 when you take the belt off you have too turn the motor alittle befor it works simple baad motor

paulfoel wrote:
Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

To be honest, it started happening but if you left it for 30 mins it
would then work OK (capacitor charging?). Now thought theres nothing.

My wife insists though that occasionally the dryer stopped half way
through. I know its a reverse action so I was wondering if this could
be explained by the motor needing to stop and then restart in the
opposite direction (using the capacitor).

Any ideas ?


Almost certainly the motor is faulty, probably starting windings failed,
but check the motor connector for poor or burnt contacts.

Ron(UK)

--

www.lunevalleyaudio.com

paulfoel wrote:
Heater comes on no problem (so its not the thermal switch).

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a slight
nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum to turn
(probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the motor up).

Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.



It's either the capacitor itself, the starting switch if present, or a
fault in the motor. I'd check the switch first, if that works then
replace the capacitor, if it still won't start then it's probably the
start winding in the motor.

Whats the difference between a motor run and a motor start capacitor ?

None... the difference is the motor the capacitors are the same.




No it's not, while you can use an oil filled run capacitor as a start
capacitor, you *cannot* use an electrolytic start capacitor as a run
capacitor. Start capacitors are rated only for momentary use.

The White Knight is a run capacitor system i.e. the start and run windings
are both energized when the motor is running. A capacitor start motor is
usually much bigger and has a means of disconnecting the start winding and
capacitor once the motor is running, either by the starter or a centrifugal
switch.





Ah, that's a PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor. Low starting torque
but simple, cheap, and generally reliable.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:0Fiqf.703$2B5.550@trnddc01...

The White Knight is a run capacitor system i.e. the start and run
windings are both energized when the motor is running. A capacitor start
motor is usually much bigger and has a means of disconnecting the start
winding and capacitor once the motor is running, either by the starter or
a centrifugal switch.



Ah, that's a PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor. Low starting torque
but simple, cheap, and generally reliable.

using an electrolytic capacitor

powerstation wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:0Fiqf.703$2B5.550@trnddc01...

The White Knight is a run capacitor system i.e. the start and run
windings are both energized when the motor is running. A capacitor start
motor is usually much bigger and has a means of disconnecting the start
winding and capacitor once the motor is running, either by the starter or
a centrifugal switch.



Ah, that's a PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor. Low starting torque
but simple, cheap, and generally reliable.


using an electrolytic capacitor



If it uses an electrolytic capacitor that would explain why the
capacitor fails. Most of the dryers I've dealt with have oil filled run
capacitors, as does my drill press and the fan motors in my furnace and
heat pump, those are are all the PSC motors I have I can think of other
than the refrigerator compressor, dunno what sort of cap is in that,
I've never looked.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
newsYiqf.713$2B5.526@trnddc01...
powerstation wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:0Fiqf.703$2B5.550@trnddc01...

The White Knight is a run capacitor system i.e. the start and run
windings are both energized when the motor is running. A capacitor start
motor is usually much bigger and has a means of disconnecting the start
winding and capacitor once the motor is running, either by the starter
or a centrifugal switch.



Ah, that's a PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor. Low starting torque
but simple, cheap, and generally reliable.


using an electrolytic capacitor

If it uses an electrolytic capacitor that would explain why the capacitor
fails. Most of the dryers I've dealt with have oil filled run capacitors,
as does my drill press and the fan motors in my furnace and heat pump,
those are are all the PSC motors I have I can think of other than the
refrigerator compressor, dunno what sort of cap is in that, I've never
looked.

refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.

If it uses an electrolytic capacitor that would explain why the capacitor
fails. Most of the dryers I've dealt with have oil filled run capacitors,
as does my drill press and the fan motors in my furnace and heat pump,
those are are all the PSC motors I have I can think of other than the
refrigerator compressor, dunno what sort of cap is in that, I've never
looked.


refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.




Sure they do, they (again at least in the US) have a PSC motor in the
compressor, usually the capacitor is 8-15 uF potted brick but I've seen
older ones with oil filled capacitors.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:F1kqf.35347$aU4.33085@trnddc06...


If it uses an electrolytic capacitor that would explain why the capacitor
fails. Most of the dryers I've dealt with have oil filled run capacitors,
as does my drill press and the fan motors in my furnace and heat pump,
those are are all the PSC motors I have I can think of other than the
refrigerator compressor, dunno what sort of cap is in that, I've never
looked.


refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.


Sure they do, they (again at least in the US) have a PSC motor in the
compressor, usually the capacitor is 8-15 uF potted brick but I've seen
older ones with oil filled capacitors.

Not in the UK they are relay or PTC starters no capacitor

In article F1kqf.35347$aU4.33085@trnddc06,
James Sweet writes:

refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.

Sure they do, they (again at least in the US) have a PSC motor in the
compressor, usually the capacitor is 8-15 uF potted brick but I've seen
older ones with oil filled capacitors.

In UK, older ones used to have a start capacitor and relay
(starter relay failing was a not uncommon failure mode in
old age).

There's no externally visible capacitor in current models,
but they are certainly induction motors of some type.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article F1kqf.35347$aU4.33085@trnddc06,
James Sweet writes:

refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.

Sure they do, they (again at least in the US) have a PSC motor in the
compressor, usually the capacitor is 8-15 uF potted brick but I've seen
older ones with oil filled capacitors.

In UK, older ones used to have a start capacitor and relay
(starter relay failing was a not uncommon failure mode in
old age).

There's no externally visible capacitor in current models,
but they are certainly induction motors of some type.

Must be damn old I been working on them for 25yrs never seen one with a
capacitor only a relay starter

In article .com,
paulfoel wrote:

When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a
slight nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum
to turn (probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the
motor up).

That looks like the most significant paragraph in
your original fault description.

It doesn't run until you poke it... which suggests
that there is only a single phase connected, which
could be power only to the Main winding or only to
the Auxiliary winding (the one via the capacitor).

But even when poked it has no torque.... which then
suggests that only the Aux winding is being powered.

It looks like it could be a poor connection to the
main winding of the motor, or the main winding itself.

It's an ohmeter job. Locate and check continuity of
the main winding, then work backwards along all wires
and connections to it.

Perps, in order of probability:-

Any switches, switching or reversing power to the main
winding. The main winding itself. Crimps and connections
along the wiring.

If no obvious fault is found, do the same ohmeter exercise
in the Auxiliary path, (just in case), particularly checking
the capacitor for short circuit along the way.

--
Tony Williams.

Tony Williams wrote:
In article .com,
paulfoel wrote:


When I take belt off the motor does not turn until I give it a
slight nudge. If I put the belt back on I still cant get the drum
to turn (probably because I cant turn it fast enough to start the
motor up).


That looks like the most significant paragraph in
your original fault description.

It doesn't run until you poke it... which suggests
that there is only a single phase connected, which
could be power only to the Main winding or only to
the Auxiliary winding (the one via the capacitor).

But even when poked it has no torque.... which then
suggests that only the Aux winding is being powered.

It looks like it could be a poor connection to the
main winding of the motor, or the main winding itself.

It's an ohmeter job. Locate and check continuity of
the main winding, then work backwards along all wires
and connections to it.

Perps, in order of probability:-

Any switches, switching or reversing power to the main
winding. The main winding itself. Crimps and connections
along the wiring.

If no obvious fault is found, do the same ohmeter exercise
in the Auxiliary path, (just in case), particularly checking
the capacitor for short circuit along the way.



There is often a thermal cutout embedded in the winding. The often fail
after repeatedly tripping.

Ron(UK)

--
Lune Valley Audio
Public address system
Hire, Sales, Repairs
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

(BTW. Think I knackered the timer now though - shorted it and blew the
fuses etc.).

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

What you describe doesn't seem to have any neutral connection.
Are you sure you haven't lost a wire somewhere?
How many separate terminals are there on the old and new capacitors,
not counting multiple connections to the same terminals?

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

Probably not without more info.

--
Andrew Gabriel

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

What you describe doesn't seem to have any neutral connection.
Are you sure you haven't lost a wire somewhere?
How many separate terminals are there on the old and new capacitors,
not counting multiple connections to the same terminals?

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

Probably not without more info.

What further info do u need?

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

(BTW. Think I knackered the timer now though - shorted it and blew the
fuses etc.).

The single wire from the motor on the white plastic connector is the
neutral, one of the wires to the capacitor should be live with the motor
running, these change over when the timer reverses the motor. What model do
you have, I will have a manual for it if you need it.

Peter

Hi!

refrigerator compressors dont have a capacitor.

Yes, quite a few of them do. I've seen a very few that didn't, but they
would be an exception to the rule in my view.

William

"paulfoel" wrote in message
oups.com...

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article . com,
"paulfoel" writes:
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

What you describe doesn't seem to have any neutral connection.
Are you sure you haven't lost a wire somewhere?
How many separate terminals are there on the old and new capacitors,
not counting multiple connections to the same terminals?

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

Probably not without more info.

What further info do u need?
Sorry did not read all Post Yes it was the capacitor. As you say give the
motor a push and it runs This is what the capacitor does. Changed a few of
these over the past year.
BigGuyUK

powerstation wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

(BTW. Think I knackered the timer now though - shorted it and blew the
fuses etc.).

The single wire from the motor on the white plastic connector is the
neutral, one of the wires to the capacitor should be live with the motor
running, these change over when the timer reverses the motor. What model do
you have, I will have a manual for it if you need it.


WV447

powerstation wrote:

"paulfoel" wrote in message
ups.com...
OK. Changed the capacitor but now I cant get the motor to run at all
!!!!

Just to explain how its connected. From the switch/timer theres one
wire straight to the motor, and two to the capacitor. Then two run from
the capacitor to the motor.

The sole wire is live (I checked). What should be live into/out of the
capacitor. Why two wires in and out?

Should the motor run with just the one live? What about earth/ground?

Can someone explain whats what?

(BTW. Think I knackered the timer now though - shorted it and blew the
fuses etc.).

The single wire from the motor on the white plastic connector is the
neutral, one of the wires to the capacitor should be live with the motor
running, these change over when the timer reverses the motor. What model do
you have, I will have a manual for it if you need it.


So why 4 wires on the top of the capacitor? There are two on one side
of the top with a plastic separator between these and two more.

Should both inputs be on one side and both outputs on the other?

So why 4 wires on the top of the capacitor? There are two on one side
of the top with a plastic separator between these and two more.

Should both inputs be on one side and both outputs on the other?


There's probably two pares of terminals, with each pair connected
together. This is so you can connect more than one wire to each of the
two connections to the capacitor itself.

In article .com,
says...
Could this be the capacitor? I've heard that this type of motor uses
the capacitor to kick start the motor.

I had exactly this with a White Knight dryer. It was indeed the motor
run (not motor start, apparently that's a different sort of motor)
capacitor. I took it off (the big silver cylinder on top of the motor)
and took it to a local motor rewinders where the bloke rummaged in a
pile for a while and gave me a spare for a couple of quid.

That was ages ago and it's still running.

--
Roland Butter :- There's nothing like a knob of butter.

In article , says...

None at all ..... but the drum's knackered in ours (makes one hell of a
clunk on each revolution))
So if you're scrapping it .......

Mine came from the tip 'cos the drum had broken away from the bearing
carrier at the rear. Three small coachbolts and some nylocs and it's
still going nearly five years later. Not bad for a condensing dryer.

On a related note, I notice that condensing dryers always score badly on
energy consumption ratings, but I feel that's a bit unfair. We only use
ours when it's too cold and damp to dry outdoors or on the rack winched
up into the stairwell. In these conditions the heat from a vented dryer
would be lost to the outside world whereas ours is kept in the house,
usually on a day when the heating would be on anyway, so though it uses
more energy and electricity isn't as cheap as gas, at least it isn't
thrown away.

--
Roland Butter :- There's nothing like a knob of butter.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:YgXsf.5806$Ff6.361@trnddc01...



So why 4 wires on the top of the capacitor? There are two on one side
of the top with a plastic separator between these and two more.

Should both inputs be on one side and both outputs on the other?


There's probably two pares of terminals, with each pair connected
together. This is so you can connect more than one wire to each of the two
connections to the capacitor itself.

I have emailed the service manuals including wiring diagram

Peter