I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve

On 04/18/2014 08:00 PM, SteveB wrote:
I need to make a gasket.

I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.


What would you do?

Wear goggles!


Steve

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve

I'd start by going to a decent auto parts store and getting some 1/32"
thick gasket material.

You'll know it's a decent auto parts store if you say "do you have 1/32"
thick gasket material?" and they say "yes".

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve
I'd see how cheaply I could buy the correct gasket first.
If I was making a simple carb base gasket I'd measure the hole sizes
and centers and lay it out on proper gasket material, then punch out
the holes and then mark and cut out the outline. If I didn't have
access to the gasket punches I would cut the large hole with an xacto
knife

Place the gasket material against your part and carefully tap with a ball
peen hammer..

Den 19-04-2014 05:00, SteveB skrev:

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Is the flange flat?
Do you have a scanner and a printer or maybe a copier?
If yes to all I simply put the part on the scanner and scan the flange
then make a 1:1 print or simply make a photocopy.


--
Uffe

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve

For years people have been laying the gasket material on the part and
carefully tapping with a small ball peen hammer to emboss the outline
on the gasket material. In some cases like the outside edges you can
actually cut the gasket to size with the hammer but in more delicate
locations it is usually more practical to cut to the embossed line
with a knife of scissors. I usually punch bolt holes with a hole
punch.

As I'm sure you know, real gasket material beats everything else for
long life and sealing.
--
Cheers,

John B.

Place the gasket material against your part and carefully tap with a ball
peen hammer..

2nd that. surprised it took this long for somebody to answer. made
100s this way.

Karl

On Sat, 19 Apr 2014 00:50:47 -0500, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Except for the paper, good. I've used cardboard from a cereal box
before, but that was because I couldn't find gasket material at my
local auto parts stores. Tim has the right idea. DO get the proper
material. It comes by the foot (historically) or in several foot
rolls (more recently).


Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I've made them with a ball peen hammer myself, but I've also seen
fellow students (Universal Technical Institute, 1972) CRACK and/or
dent carb bodies doing that. I recommend against it.

No, better is to measure and cut off a piece gasket material which
will be large enough to do the job. Lay that out on the bench, lay the
carb body on it, trace around the outside, and cut that line with an
exacto or scissors. If there is linkage in the way, guess on the wide
side and trim later. Then draw a parallel line around the inside so
it is just a bit wider than needed, increasing it to a larger diameter
where the screw holes will be. Carefully use the exacto to cut that
outline. Now use a hollow punch to cut the screw holes. HF has a set
for $6, if you don't already have a set.


I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

No, I think printing would only increase parallax errors.


What would you do?

Once you have a good gasket, make a few more, keep them in a baggie
(backed by a little piece of cardboard to keep them from betting bent)
and save them with your welder manual. Staple it to one of the
sillier warning pages at the front.


I'd start by going to a decent auto parts store and getting some 1/32"
thick gasket material.

You'll know it's a decent auto parts store if you say "do you have 1/32"
thick gasket material?" and they say "yes".

Ayup, I heartily second that, Tim. 1/32" at minimum. I used to use
long-fiber wheel bearing grease on that material to give it a longer
life. They dry out terribly without it. Goop up the cut gasket, let
it sit for half an hour to soak in, then carefully wipe off the
excess. Gas will eat away any grease within the carb body, but the
grease will keep the gasket from sticking to the carb (or, worse, a
timing chain cover), so it is easier the next time you rebuild. I'm
so VERY glad that automotive technology moved to EFI and I don't have
to rebuild carbs any more. g

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up.

Don't change the thickness if there are hangy down parts on the cover!
(float mechanism)

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

Place the gasket material against your part and carefully tap with a ball
peen hammer..

2nd that. surprised it took this long for somebody to answer. made
100s this way.


Most of the people with any substantial amount of knowledge and mechanical
skills drifted away from this group long ago, what's left now is mostly a
bunch of "rugged survivalist types" most of whom in reality couldn't ****ing
shove a ****ing sharp stick up a goat's ass if their lives depended on it
and who, instead of finding something more productive to do, come here in
order to find someone with which to vehemently argue their extreme political
views.

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve
I'd see how cheaply I could buy the correct gasket first.
If I was making a simple carb base gasket I'd measure the hole sizes
and centers and lay it out on proper gasket material, then punch out
the holes and then mark and cut out the outline. If I didn't have
access to the gasket punches I would cut the large hole with an xacto
knife

On Friday, April 18, 2014 10:00:16 PM UTC-5, SteveB wrote:
I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches.


I have laid out the bolt holes, punched them for a tight fit to the bolts; bolt the gasket to the flange and cut the rest from there.

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve

Id take the gasket material, lay it on the carberator..and tap it
firmly with a plastic or brass hammer..alll over the top of the
gasket.

Then Id remove the gasket and cut out the places indicated.

OR..Id put a little bit of Dyekem on the joint, and before it
hardens..lay the gasket on the dyekem and push down. Then after a
moment or 3..lift straight up..then cut away the indicated areas.

Its not..not rocket science.


--

"
I was once told by a “gun safety” advocate back in the Nineties
that he favored total civilian firearms confiscation.
Only the military and police should have weapons he averred and what did I think about that?

I began to give him a reasoned answer and he
cut me off with an abrupt, “Give me the short answer.”

I thought for a moment and said, “If you try to take our firearms we will kill you.”"

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

Id take the gasket material, lay it on the carberator..and tap it
firmly with a plastic or brass hammer..alll over the top of the
gasket.

If you were an old-school mechanic, you'd do it this way.

Coat one surface with Hi-Tack (or a gasket sealer compatible with the
job, if Hi-Tack won't work), and stick it down flat on the piece to be
gasketed. Hold (press) it flat until the Hi-tack grips and holds.

Finger-press or rub the surface to locate drafts and bolt holes. Just
indicate them with slight depressions, don't try to push them through.

Use a tiny ball-peen hammer, like a modeler's size (total head length
about 2" and weight about 3-4oz, and LIGHTLY tap on the inside edges of
any hole you wish to cut out.

As you tap, the holes will become better defined. If the hole has long
straight sides, use the flat end of the hammer for the sides, until you
approach the corners, working more and more toward the very tip of the
ball as you get into small circles or small-radius corners.

Progressively, you can cut all the way through the gasket material
without any damage to the work or the body-portion of the gasket. Fish
out pieces that go into holes with and awl or tweezers.

The gasket will be an exact fit, as if it had been die-cut.

LLoyd

Tim Wescott writes:

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

Any tricks to gasket making?
[snip]

I'd start by going to a decent auto parts store and getting some 1/32"
thick gasket material.

There is a trick that is rarely needed but sometimes helps.

If your Exacto knife, surgical scalpel or other Very Sharp Blade isn't
cutting the gasket material -- gasket paper, cork, whatever -- cleanly,
there is a device used by dress makers that may work: a fabric cutter,
sort of like an Exacto knife but with a razor-sharp rotating wheel
instead of a static blade. Cool device. (Do remember to use it on a
surface that won't blunt it in one rev.)

99% of the time, scissors, Exacto knife or Bard-Parker scalpel plus a
cheap set of hole (hollow) punches are fine.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On Sat, 19 Apr 2014 18:38:35 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 18 Apr 2014 20:00:16 -0700, SteveB wrote:

I need to make a gasket. It will be about 2 x 3 inches. Pretty simple
stuff. I made one before for my welder carburetor. IIRC, I laid a
piece of paper on it, and rubbed it with dirty fingers until I got a
pattern, then carefully cut it out. It lasted a long time, and would
have lasted longer, but I left it full of gas, and it varnished.

I have cleaned the carb really well, and blown out all the channels and
chased them with pipe cleaners.

I figure to use the piece of white paper again. There are only four
bolt holes, and they have a lot of room for error. I figure this time,
I'll use an X-Acto knife to cut out a lot of the bigger pieces, and a
improvised punch to get the bolt holes.

Any tricks to gasket making? I have enough material to make about four
in case I mess up. Just go slow and easy, I guess. I was going to use
a tiny ball peen to cut off at the outside edges, but decided to leave
about 1/8+" sticking out so I don't have to worry about having too close
tolerances, and having a potential leaking spot. I can just cut outside
the line with scissors, and get it pretty close.

I thought of taking a digital picture, and enlarging it to exact
duplicate scale, and then using that for a template to cut the gasket on
a flat piece of plywood. Might take a little time, but I think I can do
it easily, just include a tape in the pic, and keep adjusting and
printing until it prints dead on.

What would you do?

Steve

For years people have been laying the gasket material on the part and
carefully tapping with a small ball peen hammer to emboss the outline
on the gasket material. In some cases like the outside edges you can
actually cut the gasket to size with the hammer but in more delicate
locations it is usually more practical to cut to the embossed line
with a knife of scissors. I usually punch bolt holes with a hole
punch.

As I'm sure you know, real gasket material beats everything else for
long life and sealing.
Another simple method of transferring the pattern is to oil or
lighly grease the flange, then press it onto the gasket material. For
other castings I've done it with paint too. Light shot of spay fast
drying laquer, plop it on the gasket material, press hard and remove.
Perfect print.

Larry Jaques writes:

I used to use long-fiber wheel bearing grease on that material to
give it a longer life. They dry out terribly without it. Goop up
the cut gasket, let it sit for half an hour to soak in, then
carefully wipe off the excess. Gas will eat away any grease within
the carb body, but the grease will keep the gasket from sticking to
the carb (or, worse, a timing chain cover), so it is easier the next
time you rebuild.

Here'e a related question:

40 years ago I was a foreign car mechanic (back when "foreign car"
meant something :-). My recollection is that I used Permatex HiTack,
the candy-apple red, aerosol, non-hardening gasket sealer to seal carb
gaskets, fuel lines, fuel settling bowl gaskets etc. whenever there
was a leakage problem. Worked reliably. And it was *impervious* to
gasoline, had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Any other Old
Geezers have the same recollections?

Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the produst that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?

Is there a similar, alternative non-hardening, spray-on gasket sealer
that's impervious to gasoline (and diesel, for that matter)?

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

I used to use long-fiber wheel bearing grease on that material to
give it a longer life. They dry out terribly without it. Goop up
the cut gasket, let it sit for half an hour to soak in, then
carefully wipe off the excess. Gas will eat away any grease within
the carb body, but the grease will keep the gasket from sticking to
the carb (or, worse, a timing chain cover), so it is easier the next
time you rebuild.

Here'e a related question:

40 years ago I was a foreign car mechanic (back when "foreign car"
meant something :-). My recollection is that I used Permatex HiTack,
the candy-apple red, aerosol, non-hardening gasket sealer to seal carb
gaskets, fuel lines, fuel settling bowl gaskets etc. whenever there
was a leakage problem. Worked reliably. And it was *impervious* to
gasoline, had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Any other Old
Geezers have the same recollections?

Yup. Used the spray hi-tack in place of the earlier permatex aviation
gasket sealer - which was even nastier to remove.

Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the produst that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?
Ethanol is an effective solvent for both the old permatex and HiTack -
and it is quite possible the hi-tack formula has also changed,

Is there a similar, alternative non-hardening, spray-on gasket sealer
that's impervious to gasoline (and diesel, for that matter)?

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.
The VG4 doesn't make as much power as its size might make you expect!!

wrote:
On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer wrote:

Larry Jaques writes:

Here'e a related question:

40 years ago I was a foreign car mechanic (back when "foreign car"
meant something :-). My recollection is that I used Permatex HiTack,
the candy-apple red, aerosol, non-hardening gasket sealer to seal carb
gaskets, fuel lines, fuel settling bowl gaskets etc. whenever there
was a leakage problem. Worked reliably. And it was *impervious* to
gasoline, had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Any other Old
Geezers have the same recollections?

Yup. Used the spray hi-tack in place of the earlier permatex aviation
gasket sealer - which was even nastier to remove.

Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the produst that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?
Ethanol is an effective solvent for both the old permatex and HiTack -
and it is quite possible the hi-tack formula has also changed,

I would also suspect the gasoline additives. It really wouldn't take much
ethanol to soften the compound enough for the petroleum distillates to be
able to attack it. Also, the compound may have been reformulated to
eliminale chlorinated compounds from the carrier solvent to keep the EPA
happy.


Is there a similar, alternative non-hardening, spray-on gasket sealer
that's impervious to gasoline (and diesel, for that matter)?

I don't bother with spray-on if I can find a suitable thinners to dilute
gasket compound from a tube to a brushable consistancy. If Ethanol in the
gas is the issue, avoid any compound that recommends any alcohol for
cleanup.

Hylomar Blue is reasonably gasolene resistant, though you should use it
really sparingly as globs of it squeezed out of the joint are likely to
go gooey if continuously immersed and may detach and cause trouble
elsewhere. It can be thinned with Acetone and brushed on easily and
evenly. When doing engine work, I keep a minature jam jar of it ready
diluted, as its best to let it stand a while for an even consistancy.

-- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- &
[dot]=. *Warning* HTML & 32K emails -- NUL

On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

I used to use long-fiber wheel bearing grease on that material to
give it a longer life. They dry out terribly without it. Goop up
the cut gasket, let it sit for half an hour to soak in, then
carefully wipe off the excess. Gas will eat away any grease within
the carb body, but the grease will keep the gasket from sticking to
the carb (or, worse, a timing chain cover), so it is easier the next
time you rebuild.

Here'e a related question:

40 years ago I was a foreign car mechanic (back when "foreign car"
meant something :-). My recollection is that I used Permatex HiTack,
the candy-apple red, aerosol, non-hardening gasket sealer to seal carb
gaskets, fuel lines, fuel settling bowl gaskets etc. whenever there
was a leakage problem. Worked reliably. And it was *impervious* to
gasoline, had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Any other Old
Geezers have the same recollections?

I remember the old amber/red (mercurochrome-looking) stuff which
hardened andwas a royal bitch to remove. Lord, I hated that stuff.

Was HiTack the stuff which looked like liquid bluing that had gelled?
If so, I remember it. I think it was the very first silicone gasket
sealer on the market. Back then, gasket material in half a dozen
different textures and thicknesses were available at every auto parts
store in town. I always opted for gluing the gasket to the removable
part if it was subject to shifting, but never to the engine block,
heads, or timing cover if at all possible. Then I'd grease the other
side so it left a clean surface and came right off. I remember the
glued-on mess left of an aluminum timing cover was stuck to the block
with hardening adhesive/sealer. Grr...


Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the produst that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?

Yes, most likely. It's probably being dissolved by the alcohol in the
fuel, and maybe even some of the new, highly-toxic additives. None of
that was around way-back-when. (And it shouldn't be around today,
damnit. I lost over fifteen percent of my gas mileage to the bloody
oxygenated fuel we use today. I'm just glad it's E15, not E85. I
can't imagine how gutless engines would be on that.)


Is there a similar, alternative non-hardening, spray-on gasket sealer
that's impervious to gasoline (and diesel, for that matter)?

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

Pictures, man! Pictures!

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo

On Sun, 20 Apr 2014 06:56:01 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

I used to use long-fiber wheel bearing grease on that material to
give it a longer life. They dry out terribly without it. Goop up
the cut gasket, let it sit for half an hour to soak in, then
carefully wipe off the excess. Gas will eat away any grease within
the carb body, but the grease will keep the gasket from sticking to
the carb (or, worse, a timing chain cover), so it is easier the next
time you rebuild.

Here'e a related question:

40 years ago I was a foreign car mechanic (back when "foreign car"
meant something :-). My recollection is that I used Permatex HiTack,
the candy-apple red, aerosol, non-hardening gasket sealer to seal carb
gaskets, fuel lines, fuel settling bowl gaskets etc. whenever there
was a leakage problem. Worked reliably. And it was *impervious* to
gasoline, had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Any other Old
Geezers have the same recollections?

I remember the old amber/red (mercurochrome-looking) stuff which
hardened andwas a royal bitch to remove. Lord, I hated that stuff.

Was HiTack the stuff which looked like liquid bluing that had gelled?
If so, I remember it. I think it was the very first silicone gasket
sealer on the market. Back then, gasket material in half a dozen
different textures and thicknesses were available at every auto parts
store in town. I always opted for gluing the gasket to the removable
part if it was subject to shifting, but never to the engine block,
heads, or timing cover if at all possible. Then I'd grease the other
side so it left a clean surface and came right off. I remember the
glued-on mess left of an aluminum timing cover was stuck to the block
with hardening adhesive/sealer. Grr...

No, hitack was a bright red product - more like a paint.. Not sure if
it is still available as a spray, but the msds for the brush-on
indicated it is Acetone, Methyl Ester of Rosin, N-Hexane, Rosin, and
Acrylonitrile Butadiene polymer


Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the produst that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?

Yes, most likely. It's probably being dissolved by the alcohol in the
fuel, and maybe even some of the new, highly-toxic additives. None of
that was around way-back-when. (And it shouldn't be around today,
damnit. I lost over fifteen percent of my gas mileage to the bloody
oxygenated fuel we use today. I'm just glad it's E15, not E85. I
can't imagine how gutless engines would be on that.)


Is there a similar, alternative non-hardening, spray-on gasket sealer
that's impervious to gasoline (and diesel, for that matter)?

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

Pictures, man! Pictures!

writes:

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

The VG4 doesn't make as much power as its size might make you expect!!

The Wisconsin 4 (I forget the model#) is about 24 HP, enough to run
the hammer at idle but not under load. The Deutz is ca. 40 HP. The
hammer was originally run from a 15HP 400V 3PH motor. I salvaged the
motor's shaft to use as a jackshaft between diesel and hammer.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

Larry Jaques writes:

On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:
I remember the old amber/red (mercurochrome-looking) stuff which
hardened andwas a royal bitch to remove. Lord, I hated that stuff.

HiTack was the happy solution to that horror. :-)


Was HiTack the stuff which looked like liquid bluing that had gelled?

No. Spray can, candy-apple red. We used to call it "candy-apple
stickum" in contrast to "dog ****" (brown paste in a tube) and "liquid
dog ****" (drooly brown goo in a can with a brush. The latter two had
the tenacity of something you'd stepped in in the street, hence the
name.

If so, I remember it. I think it was the very first silicone gasket
sealer on the market.

My boss has a single tube of blue goo that he would only let us use if
nothing else worked. Something he's brought home from England where he
worked on aircraft for a couple of years sometime after WW II. Not
available in Leftpondia. I forget the name.

Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the product that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?

Yes, most likely. It's probably being dissolved by the alcohol in the
fuel, and maybe even some of the new, highly-toxic additives. None of
that was around way-back-when.

Huh. Pits. Sic transit gloria candy-apple-stickum.

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

Pictures, man! Pictures!

Getting started:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/alldays.html

Not for the faint of heart:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/AO-power.html

Diesel power:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...z-alldays.html

There you go!

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 21 Apr 2014 22:59:49 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


writes:

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

The VG4 doesn't make as much power as its size might make you expect!!

The Wisconsin 4 (I forget the model#) is about 24 HP, enough to run
the hammer at idle but not under load. The Deutz is ca. 40 HP. The
hammer was originally run from a 15HP 400V 3PH motor. I salvaged the
motor's shaft to use as a jackshaft between diesel and hammer.
Used to run the flathead VG4D engines on a lot of swathers and
balers. Heavy slugs. Fairly torquey, but about 1800 RPM wide open.

On 21 Apr 2014 22:59:49 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


writes:

ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

The VG4 doesn't make as much power as its size might make you expect!!

The Wisconsin 4 (I forget the model#) is about 24 HP, enough to run
the hammer at idle but not under load. The Deutz is ca. 40 HP. The
hammer was originally run from a 15HP 400V 3PH motor.

The Deutz probably has six times the torque of the Wisconsin, too.
It would probably run the hammer if it were putting out the same HP as
the Wis.


I salvaged the
motor's shaft to use as a jackshaft between diesel and hammer.

Pics?

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo

On 21 Apr 2014 23:31:06 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

On 20 Apr 2014 00:46:52 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:
I remember the old amber/red (mercurochrome-looking) stuff which
hardened andwas a royal bitch to remove. Lord, I hated that stuff.

HiTack was the happy solution to that horror. :-)


Was HiTack the stuff which looked like liquid bluing that had gelled?

No. Spray can, candy-apple red. We used to call it "candy-apple
stickum" in contrast to "dog ****" (brown paste in a tube) and "liquid
dog ****" (drooly brown goo in a can with a brush. The latter two had
the tenacity of something you'd stepped in in the street, hence the
name.

We used to use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, aka Elephant Snot, on
rocker cover gaskets, with grease betwixt the cork/rubber/fiber gasket
and the head. It gets its name is from its texture, as it's a nice
bright yellow and is drippygooeystinky.


If so, I remember it. I think it was the very first silicone gasket
sealer on the market.

My boss has a single tube of blue goo that he would only let us use if
nothing else worked. Something he's brought home from England where he
worked on aircraft for a couple of years sometime after WW II. Not
available in Leftpondia. I forget the name.

Because more recently, a few years ago, I had to seal a problem
settling bowl on a Wisconsin air-cooled. Leaked like a sieve.
Experiments showed that gasoline quickly dissolves and cleans off
HiTack very well. New can from store, same. New can sent directly
from Permatex, same.

Is it new gas additives/composition? Changes in the product that even
the engineer at Permatex didn't know about? My memory has a huge hole
in it?

Yes, most likely. It's probably being dissolved by the alcohol in the
fuel, and maybe even some of the new, highly-toxic additives. None of
that was around way-back-when.

Huh. Pits. Sic transit gloria candy-apple-stickum.

Yeah, sorta rings a bell, but it was expensive, wasn't it? I think
that's why I don't remember using it much. No tengo mucho dinero!


ObMetalworking: The Wisconsin was intended to drive a 300# air hammer
but turned out not to be big enough. A 3-cyl Deutz diesel *is* big
enough.

Pictures, man! Pictures!

Getting started:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/alldays.html

crack: Some mother's idiot stepchild got impatient. Pity!
Did you braze it up and fit another spring valve on it?


Not for the faint of heart:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/AO-power.html

Stupendous crash pics yet?


Diesel power:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...z-alldays.html

There you go!

Hey, she dresses up nicely. Too bad you couldn't extend the rails for
the hammer and pop the Deutz up on those, in-line with the hammah.

Do you have rails into the yard, so you can accept rail cars full of
coal for the forge to heat large chunks of iron to use in the hammer?

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo

Larry Jaques writes:

On 21 Apr 2014 23:31:06 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:
http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/alldays.html

crack: Some mother's idiot stepchild got impatient. Pity!
Did you braze it up and fit another spring valve on it?

Left the crack alone. Seems OK. Yes, fitted a new reed (from old
flat bedspring) where one was missing, cleaned the existing one.

Not for the faint of heart:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/AO-power.html

Stupendous crash pics yet?

No. Cobbled up a steering lock and external throttle lever.
And replaced the whole thing with (a) Wisconsin 4, NFG, (b) flatbelt
drive from read end of an old truck (NFG, oscillating load is all
wrong for flatbelt) and (c) Diesel, which works fine.

Magnets on flywheel and bicycle speedo sensor calibrated to be a tach
as the engine tach is unreliable.

Diesel power:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...z-alldays.html

There you go!

Hey, she dresses up nicely. Too bad you couldn't extend the rails for
the hammer and pop the Deutz up on those, in-line with the hammah.

Didn't realize the possibility when the concrete was poured and the
(wooden) rails installed.

Do you have rails into the yard, so you can accept rail cars full of
coal for the forge to heat large chunks of iron to use in the hammer?

Hah! No. I have 2 or 3 tons of coal on hand, my eye on a couple of
tons of coke that will need to be crushed some. Actually, it's a
bummer that there's never been a siding anywhere near me with a
drive-under hopper car unloader. A carload of coal would have had to
come to a siding in a gondola car and be unloaded by hand. Now they've
torn op the tracks and there's no rail head closer than 70 miles.

Built a portable forge with 4 tuyere holes so's to be able to take a
longer heat (i.e. more length hot at once), design a variant of one
developed by the late Gerry Levy. Installed a jib crane (no pics yet)
so's to be able to hold a heavy work piece with one hand and a top
tool with the other. Working on bolt-on or clamp-on die mods.
Actually forge something Real Soon Now. ;-)

Further ObMetalworking: I swapped a working 100# mechanical hammer:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/old-hammer.html

with which I made a lot of anchors, graplins and assorted stuff for
the non-working 300# A&O. I have a 25# Jardine -- Canadian knock-off
of Little Giant -- that has less gumpties than the #100 Palmer but is
more versatile.

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 22 Apr 2014 00:51:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

On 21 Apr 2014 23:31:06 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:
http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/alldays.html

crack: Some mother's idiot stepchild got impatient. Pity!
Did you braze it up and fit another spring valve on it?

Left the crack alone. Seems OK. Yes, fitted a new reed (from old
flat bedspring) where one was missing, cleaned the existing one.

Not for the faint of heart:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/shop/AO-power.html

Stupendous crash pics yet?

No. Cobbled up a steering lock and external throttle lever.
And replaced the whole thing with (a) Wisconsin 4, NFG, (b) flatbelt
drive from read end of an old truck (NFG, oscillating load is all
wrong for flatbelt) and (c) Diesel, which works fine.

Magnets on flywheel and bicycle speedo sensor calibrated to be a tach
as the engine tach is unreliable.

Sounds as if you've been at this for a long while.


Diesel power:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/sh...z-alldays.html

There you go!

Hey, she dresses up nicely. Too bad you couldn't extend the rails for
the hammer and pop the Deutz up on those, in-line with the hammah.

Didn't realize the possibility when the concrete was poured and the
(wooden) rails installed.

Then again, it may not have worked as well in the opposite rotation.


Do you have rails into the yard, so you can accept rail cars full of
coal for the forge to heat large chunks of iron to use in the hammer?

Hah! No. I have 2 or 3 tons of coal on hand, my eye on a couple of
tons of coke that will need to be crushed some. Actually, it's a
bummer that there's never been a siding anywhere near me with a
drive-under hopper car unloader. A carload of coal would have had to
come to a siding in a gondola car and be unloaded by hand. Now they've
torn op the tracks and there's no rail head closer than 70 miles.

Yeah, too bad. I think I'd rather buy a dump truck full than to hand
shovel tons of it at a time.


Built a portable forge with 4 tuyere holes so's to be able to take a
longer heat (i.e. more length hot at once), design a variant of one
developed by the late Gerry Levy. Installed a jib crane (no pics yet)
so's to be able to hold a heavy work piece with one hand and a top
tool with the other. Working on bolt-on or clamp-on die mods.
Actually forge something Real Soon Now. ;-)

This decade, eh?


Further ObMetalworking: I swapped a working 100# mechanical hammer:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/old-hammer.html

That's more the size I've seen. When I lived in Vista, California, I
used to visit the Antique Steam and Gas Engine Museum. I think their
big one was 50#, and you could feel it in your bones when it worked.
It was a mechanical, working from a steam-driven communal shaft. Coal
is bad, but coke is something I'm glad I don't smell all the time. I'd
make a lousy blacksmith, what with my pure lungs and all.


with which I made a lot of anchors, graplins and assorted stuff for
the non-working 300# A&O. I have a 25# Jardine -- Canadian knock-off
of Little Giant -- that has less gumpties than the #100 Palmer but is
more versatile.

Yeah, I can't imagine working on something which needed a 300# hammah.
Oh, my aching back...

Well done! Carry on.

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo

Larry Jaques writes:

On 22 Apr 2014 00:51:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

No. Cobbled up a steering lock and external throttle lever.
And replaced the whole thing with (a) Wisconsin 4, NFG, (b) flatbelt
drive from read end of an old truck (NFG, oscillating load is all
wrong for flatbelt) and (c) Diesel, which works fine.

Magnets on flywheel and bicycle speedo sensor calibrated to be a tach
as the engine tach is unreliable.

Sounds as if you've been at this for a long while.

Installed 2003. Expected to be running 2004. In my semi-retired,
too-laid-back and low-budget way, it was 2012 before it ran properly,
So yes.

Built a portable forge with 4 tuyere holes so's to be able to take a
longer heat (i.e. more length hot at once), design a variant of one
developed by the late Gerry Levy. Installed a jib crane (no pics yet)
so's to be able to hold a heavy work piece with one hand and a top
tool with the other. Working on bolt-on or clamp-on die mods.
Actually forge something Real Soon Now. ;-)

This decade, eh?

Maybe even this *year*! ;-)

Further ObMetalworking: I swapped a working 100# mechanical hammer:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/old-hammer.html

That's more the size I've seen. When I lived in Vista, California, I
used to visit the Antique Steam and Gas Engine Museum. I think their
big one was 50#, and you could feel it in your bones when it worked.
It was a mechanical, working from a steam-driven communal shaft.

Thre are lots of 25#, 50# and 100# hammers out there in use. Some
mechanical 250#, but once you get to that size, if you have a
prosperous business with crdit and cash flow, whether industrial or
artistic, a modern self-contained airhammer is way better than the
behemoth oldtimers such as mine. Much, much better for ornamental
free-hand forgings.

Yeah, I can't imagine working on something which needed a 300# hammah.
Oh, my aching back...

Why the jib crane.

Well done! Carry on.

Tnx. Will do. :-)

--
Mike Spencer Nova Scotia, Canada

On 22 Apr 2014 19:53:54 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:


Larry Jaques writes:

On 22 Apr 2014 00:51:01 -0300, Mike Spencer
wrote:

No. Cobbled up a steering lock and external throttle lever.
And replaced the whole thing with (a) Wisconsin 4, NFG, (b) flatbelt
drive from read end of an old truck (NFG, oscillating load is all
wrong for flatbelt) and (c) Diesel, which works fine.

Magnets on flywheel and bicycle speedo sensor calibrated to be a tach
as the engine tach is unreliable.

Sounds as if you've been at this for a long while.

Installed 2003. Expected to be running 2004. In my semi-retired,
too-laid-back and low-budget way, it was 2012 before it ran properly,
So yes.

Built a portable forge with 4 tuyere holes so's to be able to take a
longer heat (i.e. more length hot at once), design a variant of one
developed by the late Gerry Levy. Installed a jib crane (no pics yet)
so's to be able to hold a heavy work piece with one hand and a top
tool with the other. Working on bolt-on or clamp-on die mods.
Actually forge something Real Soon Now. ;-)

This decade, eh?

Maybe even this *year*! ;-)

Wow!


Further ObMetalworking: I swapped a working 100# mechanical hammer:

http://home.tallships.ca/mspencer/old-hammer.html

That's more the size I've seen. When I lived in Vista, California, I
used to visit the Antique Steam and Gas Engine Museum. I think their
big one was 50#, and you could feel it in your bones when it worked.
It was a mechanical, working from a steam-driven communal shaft.

Thre are lots of 25#, 50# and 100# hammers out there in use. Some
mechanical 250#, but once you get to that size, if you have a
prosperous business with crdit and cash flow, whether industrial or
artistic, a modern self-contained airhammer is way better than the
behemoth oldtimers such as mine. Much, much better for ornamental
free-hand forgings.

I'd reckon so. $13,450 for a 50# Turkish hammah? thud



Yeah, I can't imagine working on something which needed a 300# hammah.
Oh, my aching back...

Why the jib crane.

Even then, mass is mass.


Well done! Carry on.

Tnx. Will do. :-)

--
Stoop and you'll be stepped on;
stand tall and you'll be shot at.
-- Carlos A. Urbizo