This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed.

Sonny

Might I suggest that you use a longer threaded knob (longer threaded portion) and add a "jam-nut" to lock the knob in position.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed..

Sonny

wrote:
Might I suggest that you use a longer threaded knob (longer threaded portion) and add a "jam-nut" to lock the knob in position.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed.

Sonny

It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use
that a lot in places that do not require often use.

--
GW Ross

On 8/2/17 12:34 PM, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed.

Sonny


As other have suggested, use a jam nut. I suspect there was one on
there originally.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 8/2/2017 1:20 PM, G Ross wrote:
wrote:
Might I suggest that you use a longer threaded knob (longer
threaded portion) and add a "jam-nut" to lock the knob in
position.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to
maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/



There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves,
unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence,
the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off
center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel,
if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery
stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts.
What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same
stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob
threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more
readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a
permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied,
when needed.

Sonny

It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use
that a lot in places that do not require often use.

That looks suspiciously like a vintage Milwaukee/Delta 14" bandsaw with
a repaint job. ;-) I have one in my shop that's about 6 months older
than I am.

All the suggestions posted thus far are good one's that I would consider
IF I was experiencing the problem you describe (but I'm not, so I won't)

One more to consider: Remove the bolt and drill a small hole
perpendicular to the axis of the bolt and thread it for an hex plug.
Pop a small length of nylon rod in there followed by the hex plug to
create an "internal" jam that will prevent the bolt from backing out
with vibration. This way you won't need to grab a wrench every time you
need to adjust it nor will you have to find your tube of Blue Thread Loc.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 3:00:13 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused

That looks suspiciously like a vintage Milwaukee/Delta 14" bandsaw with
a repaint job. ;-) I have one in my shop that's about 6 months older
than I am.

Duh! I feel like a jam nut. I'm slow today. Thanks for waking me up. A regular nut, sliced in half, should do the trick.

It's a 20" Davis & Wells. It's in good working order. Picked it up for $500 maybe 2 years ago. It was used at Lambert's Prosthetics & Orthotics, here in town. Lambert closed his shop, here, sold all the equipment and moved to Baton Rouge. I bought his flammables cabinet, $50, as well.

Lately, I installed and crowned new tires. Today, I'm adjusting the motor mount (jury-rigged onto the bracket) and pulley alignment. Lambert had installed a Dayton motor that didn't quite align with the machine's bracket.

Sonny

Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 3:00:13 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused

That looks suspiciously like a vintage Milwaukee/Delta 14" bandsaw with
a repaint job. ;-) I have one in my shop that's about 6 months older
than I am.

Duh! I feel like a jam nut. I'm slow today. Thanks for waking me up. A regular nut, sliced in half, should do the trick.

It's a 20" Davis & Wells. It's in good working order. Picked it up for $500 maybe 2 years ago. It was used at Lambert's Prosthetics & Orthotics, here in town. Lambert closed his shop, here, sold all the equipment and moved to Baton Rouge. I bought his flammables cabinet, $50, as well.

Lately, I installed and crowned new tires. Today, I'm adjusting the motor mount (jury-rigged onto the bracket) and pulley alignment. Lambert had installed a Dayton motor that didn't quite align with the machine's bracket.

Sonny

Don't feel bad. I have been known, in a stupid fit of desperation, to
deform the threads of a worn bolt with a judicious rap with a ball
peen hammer a quarter inch from the end.
A sure sign of a "shade tree" mechanic.

--
GW Ross

On 8/2/2017 1:20 PM, G Ross wrote:
wrote:
Might I suggest that you use a longer threaded knob (longer threaded
portion) and add a "jam-nut" to lock the knob in position.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to
maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/


There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews,
because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels
become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the
wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff
that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is
that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff?
If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more
readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a
permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when
needed.

Sonny

It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use that
a lot in places that do not require often use.

Not a problem if you do not take the tension of the tires between usage.
For those that do, more trouble.

On 8/2/2017 12:34 PM, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/

There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed.

Sonny



In many similar cases a spring around the screw applies tension and
restricts rotation.

Or maybe dome pipe dope.

On 8/2/2017 4:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/2/2017 1:20 PM, G Ross wrote:
wrote:
Might I suggest that you use a longer threaded knob (longer threaded
portion) and add a "jam-nut" to lock the knob in position.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 1:34:52 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to
maintain its being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...posted-public/


There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews,
because of vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels
become out of plane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the
wheel. It would eventually track off the wheel, if I let it.

I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff
that's on some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is
that stuff, that's on those nuts?

Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff?
If so, I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?

If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more
readily available, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a
permanent application?

I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when
needed.

Sonny

It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use
that a lot in places that do not require often use.

Not a problem if you do not take the tension of the tires between usage.
For those that do, more trouble.


And now having said that....... my Laguna uses a jam nut, Doh!. A jam
nut with a lever on the side for easy adjustment without need of a wrench.
Obviously I was picturing the tension knob.

On 8/2/17 4:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/2/2017 1:20 PM, G Ross wrote:
It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use
that a lot in places that do not require often use.

Not a problem if you do not take the tension of the tires between usage.
For those that do, more trouble.

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 8/2/2017 4:39 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/2/17 4:14 PM, Leon wrote:
On 8/2/2017 1:20 PM, G Ross wrote:
It's not something that should have to be adjusted often, so why not
replace the knob with a bolt of the same thread with a jam nut as
suggested. Adjust it with a wrench, hold it in place and tighten the
jam nut. You might also use thread-lock in the little tube. I use
that a lot in places that do not require often use.

Not a problem if you do not take the tension of the tires between
usage. For those that do, more trouble.

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A




Wow that is pretty darn cool! Fortunately mine has a 6" dial to turn
about "a" revolution to tension.

Vibra-tite

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny

On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.

On 8/2/17 7:42 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The
tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand
wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a
tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate
tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.


That looks very handy (PUN!).
Is it four revolutions just to un-tension the blase or can you also
change it with four?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

On 8/2/2017 9:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 8/2/17 7:42 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I
did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The
tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand
wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a
tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate
tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.


That looks very handy (PUN!).
Is it four revolutions just to un-tension the blase or can you also
change it with four?


Four is just an arbitrary number for tension. Takes a few more to
change blades, but is goes quickly. Beat the hand knob that was original.

On 8/2/2017 7:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

As do I (when I remember) ;-) and I was going to ask you, Sonny, do you
typically have to adjust tracking every time? The only time I wind up
having to adjust my Milwaukee Delta is when I change blades (or when I
screw up, release tension, and then forget to re-tension the blade
before turning the saw on again). Of course, some tweaking of the
tracking is also required when changing blades.

P.S. One other thought with regard to your loose bolt. Do you have
enough room for a small spring to keep tension on the bolt?

On 8/2/2017 7:42 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The
tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand
wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a
tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate
tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.

Bought one of those a couple years ago. Great investment. "Too soon
old, too late smart!"

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.

Mine works the same but home made.

--
GW Ross

"Sonny" wrote in message
...
This is the knob for adjusting the top wheel on my bandsaw, to maintain its
being coplanar with the lower wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...d-public/There is no locking mechanism for this knob, so it moves, unscrews, becauseof vibration, as the saw is operating, hence, the wheels become out ofplane. The saw blade tracks too far off center of the wheel. It wouldeventually track off the wheel, if I let it.I taped it, but I thought to apply something like the rubbery stuff that'son some nuts, to keep them snug onto their bolts. What is that stuff,that's on those nuts?Is cosmoline, that's on saw blades and router bits, the same stuff? If so,I could melt some, for coating the coplanar knob threads?If cosmoline is not the same stuff, might there be something more readilyavailable, in my/anyone's shop, that can be used for a permanentapplication?I suppose teflon tape could be used.... and easily reapplied, when needed.SonnyI'd add a nut on the shaft to lock it in position. If the shaft is rooshort, the allen screw indicates it is replaceable.

On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 9:14:10 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

As do I (when I remember) ;-) and I was going to ask you, Sonny, do you
typically have to adjust tracking every time? The only time I wind up
having to adjust my Milwaukee Delta is when I change blades (or when I
screw up, release tension, and then forget to re-tension the blade
before turning the saw on again). Of course, some tweaking of the
tracking is also required when changing blades.

I suppose your bandsaw is a 2 wheel. My 14" delta is a 3 wheel, with crowned 7" wheels, so I don't have to adjust tracking, anytime. This saw has been okay, but it is not a very good long term heavy duty saw... poor resawing ability, even for 4" stock. The backside tension adjusting knob is inconveniently located and to turn. The blade guide bearings are somewhat poor, also. I have no dust collection attached to it and the motor has often stopped, because of dust getting into the points/contacts area. I've often had to loosen the motor casing and blow out the dust. When I bought this saw 35-38 yrs ago, I didn't know much about bandsaws or using one.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

Pics are sideways.
Top wheel - https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

Bottom wheels. The small *wheel is a 4th, motor drive wheel -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream


P.S. One other thought with regard to your loose bolt. Do you have
enough room for a small spring to keep tension on the bolt?

Not enough room for a spring, but there is room for a full 1/2" nut. Locale screw, bolt, nut store (they have every kind of screw, bolt & nut imaginable) is just up the road... they may have some sort of special 1/2" nut.

As for as the 20" saw ( other's comments), not sure I would want to install a quicker release/crank tension adjusting accessory. The saw is 7' tall. Any taller accessory, up there, I might not be able to reach, as conveniently, as the present handwheel. Besides, I like this old saw, as is.

Sonny

On 8/3/2017 8:30 AM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 9:14:10 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

As do I (when I remember) ;-) and I was going to ask you, Sonny, do you
typically have to adjust tracking every time? The only time I wind up
having to adjust my Milwaukee Delta is when I change blades (or when I
screw up, release tension, and then forget to re-tension the blade
before turning the saw on again). Of course, some tweaking of the
tracking is also required when changing blades.

I suppose your bandsaw is a 2 wheel. My 14" delta is a 3 wheel, with crowned 7" wheels, so I don't have to adjust tracking, anytime. This saw has been okay, but it is not a very good long term heavy duty saw... poor resawing ability, even for 4" stock. The backside tension adjusting knob is inconveniently located and to turn. The blade guide bearings are somewhat poor, also. I have no dust collection attached to it and the motor has often stopped, because of dust getting into the points/contacts area. I've often had to loosen the motor casing and blow out the dust. When I bought this saw 35-38 yrs ago, I didn't know much about bandsaws or using one.

Indeed, mine is. Solid cast iron and "they don't build 'em like they
used to!" ;-)

Bought it off a friend who was clearing out his mother's home about 30
years ago. I doubt that it had been used in 20 years or so then. Other
than some surface rust and direly needing new tires, it was pristine.
Delta ran the serial number for me and, IIRC, it was manufactured in the
Fall of 1945.

A truly "You SUCK!" deal as I paid $125 and cutting down the fairing of
my friend's motorcycle.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
news
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

+1, I did essentially the same thing. Main difference is three positions:
tight, loose, remove.

On 8/2/2017 7:42 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 8/2/2017 8:30 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2017 at 4:39:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

That's neat. Not sure I can adapt a hand lever to this saw. The
tension mechanism is inside the upper casing, a spring loaded hand
wheel/screw/adjuster out the top of the casing. What I need is a
tension gauge. Right now, I just eyeball or guess at an appropriate
tension... fingering the blade laterally.

I release the tension after every use, on the Delta 14", also.

Sonny


I use this
https://www.ebay.com/i/120920651627?chn=ps&dispItem=1

When done with the saw I just crank it out four turns. When I want to
use it again, just four turns to tighten.

Four turns!!!! Ugg.. I don't have time for that. ;~)

On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 3:03:04 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Four turns!!!! Ugg.. I don't have time for that. ;~)

Leon, you're suppose to have enough time to take a few sips of beer between turns. At least, that's what I try to do, take my time.

..... Must be drinking the wrong beer!?!

Sonny

On 8/3/2017 3:51 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 3:03:04 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Four turns!!!! Ugg.. I don't have time for that. ;~)

Leon, you're suppose to have enough time to take a few sips of beer between turns. At least, that's what I try to do, take my time.

.... Must be drinking the wrong beer!?!

Sonny


Well there you go LOL.

That comment about 4 turns reminded me of what poped out of my wife's
mouth yesterday.

We have a Great Dane and a big one at that. She stands 36" tall at her
shoulders. Anyway I am the designate dog bather and my wife washes the
dog beds. My wife pulls the padding out of the beds before washing the
covers. She was complaining about restuffing the padding into one of
the beds and I mistakenly reminded her that she should sew all of the
padding into an inner pillow. She is a quilter so this would not be a
big deal, or so I thought.

Her response, I don't have time for Nonsense sewing. ;~0

I got in more trouble after I finished laughing at that response. ;~(

On 8/3/17 1:50 PM, dadiOH wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
news
If you need to release the tension regularly, you could do what I did to
mine.
https://youtu.be/Pi1b7AHM_3A

+1, I did essentially the same thing. Main difference is three positions:
tight, loose, remove.


Hmmm... I like that better. I may have a redesign in order.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com