Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass, and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve

On 6/1/2017 11:39 AM, Steve wrote:


--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

They work for me. I'm probably 75 miles south of you so similar
climate. I see no reason to change.

On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass, and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately
had rust the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We
get a wind from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost
always 90% in the mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been
for the past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax
and or Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe
off the film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it
belonged to Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and
have not found anything that works better.

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real
rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent
climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years
ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated
garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw
to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I
knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in
the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for
me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will
eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term
surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for
now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous
comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive
thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more
like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads.
VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting
hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings
industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which
has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH
line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products
even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield
and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with
these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over
the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending
on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that
are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately
had rust the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We
get a wind from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost
always 90% in the mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been
for the past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax
and or Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe
off the film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it
belonged to Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and
have not found anything that works better.

Let me add that if you are getting condensation, formally caused by
sudden temperature changes you may want to consider a cover that sits
directly on top of the surface. Typically these covers are flat and can
be cut to fit the table precisely.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch.

Just to clarify, it's TopCote: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223UD

not TopKote: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WK0XF0

On 6/1/2017 11:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass, and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve

I am going to repeat the same old thing. I have had my table saw in an
unheated garage in central Indiana, and now for the last 6 years in the
lower Piedmont region of North Carolina. I have been able to take care
of the rust problem by periodically applying a coat of good car wax.

I also do one thing more. I have a piece of plywood the cut to the size
of the table on the saw. Any time I am not using the saw, the plywood
is on the table. This plywood lays flat against the surface and keeps
the moist air from coming in contact with the metal. No moisture on the
metal, and the metal does not rust.

I have had the saw for about 30 years, and while I can not see my face
in the surface there is no rust on the table.

The piece of plywood also prevents someone coming in, seeing a flat
surface. and plopping some thing on the saw that will corroded or stain
the surfaces.



--
2017: The year we lean to play the great game of Euchre

And just to clarify my previous clarification Bostik has changed
their branding ;-D

https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...oduct-branding

"Bostiks TopCote product with the brown and white
label will change to the name GlideCote with a
blue label."

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODZM7SG/

like Keith I leave my table saw sled in place in an unheated well ventilated shop. A little minwax paste wax underneath the sled keeps my saw rust free. has worked for years.

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative
on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled
basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop,
but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from
a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except
the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked
for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be
insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now,
let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on
this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about
2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments
embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in
many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the
chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy
Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also
located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire
products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or
TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in
cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past
decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in
your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as
effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately had rust
the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We get a wind
from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost always 90% in the
mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been for the
past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax and or
Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe off the
film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it belonged to
Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and have not found
anything that works better.



I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

On 6/1/2017 1:36 PM, Spalted Walt wrote:
And just to clarify my previous clarification Bostik has changed
their branding ;-D

https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...oduct-branding

"Bostiks TopCote product with the brown and white
label will change to the name GlideCote with a
blue label."

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODZM7SG/


LOL

https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Manufa...ufacturing+Inc

And to take this another step, Empire the originator of TopCote still
makes great products.
The original TopCote was made to make the TS top slippery and did an
excellent job. But the big benefit was that tops, with this product
applied, quit rusting too.
The Bostitch version is not as good as the original but I it works well
enough for me.

On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 12:24:27 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass, and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately
had rust the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We
get a wind from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost
always 90% in the mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been
for the past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax
and or Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe
off the film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it
belonged to Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and
have not found anything that works better.

I had my tools in my garage when I lived in Alabama. Boeshield worked
but as you note it's pretty sticky stuff. I didn't like it. I still
use it but a lot less, now that my tools are in my basement (only
moved about 70mi, so the weather is similar). I also found that a
magnetic cover for the saw helped.

On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 12:27:25 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real
rust-preventative on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent
climate-controlled basement. Bought a new house a couple of years
ago and upgraded the shop, but it's in an uninsulated, unheated
garage. Also upgraded the table saw from a Craftsman contractor saw
to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except the surface. I
knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked for me in
the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for
me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will
eventually be insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term
surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for
now, let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous
comments on this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive
thread since about 2012 or so, according to my search. There's more
like a smattering of comments embedded in a bunch of other threads.
VOC Laws have changed drastically in many states since then, affecting
hundreds of thousands of products in the chemicals and coatings
industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy Massachusetts, which
has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also located on the NH
line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire products
even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield
and/or TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with
these products in cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over
the past decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending
on the regs in your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that
are as effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately
had rust the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We
get a wind from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost
always 90% in the mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been
for the past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax
and or Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe
off the film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it
belonged to Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and
have not found anything that works better.

Let me add that if you are getting condensation, formally caused by
sudden temperature changes you may want to consider a cover that sits
directly on top of the surface. Typically these covers are flat and can
be cut to fit the table precisely.

My "cover" is my extension table for my unisaur. It does keep dew from
settling.

On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative
on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled
basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop,
but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from
a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except
the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked
for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be
insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now,
let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on
this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about
2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments
embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in
many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the
chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy
Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also
located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire
products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or
TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in
cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past
decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in
your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as
effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately had rust
the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We get a wind
from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost always 90% in the
mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been for the
past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax and or
Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe off the
film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it belonged to
Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and have not found
anything that works better.



I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?
Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that works is
Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 10:34:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative
on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled
basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop,
but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from
a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except
the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked
for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be
insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now,
let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on
this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about
2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments
embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in
many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the
chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy
Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also
located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire
products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or
TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in
cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past
decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in
your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as
effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately had rust
the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We get a wind
from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost always 90% in the
mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been for the
past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax and or
Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe off the
film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it belonged to
Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and have not found
anything that works better.



I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works.

Maybe because the OP has clearly stated that "Paste isn't cutting it now."

Another product that works is
Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

On 6/1/2017 10:34 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that works is
Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

Exactly, why fool with success. Bostik TopCote works great and is
designed for exactly this purpose. Lasts a long time, easy to apply and
slick as all get out.

Spend a couple of bucks and be done with it.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

gray_wolf wrote in :

I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

I wouldn't do that, at least not without checking first to make sure it doesn't contain silicone --
some of which will inevitably be transferred to the wood, where it will interfere with just about
any finish you try to apply.

On 6/2/2017 8:38 AM, Jack wrote:


Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that works is
Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

Exactly, why fool with success. Bostik TopCote works great and is
designed for exactly this purpose. Lasts a long time, easy to apply and
slick as all get out.

Spend a couple of bucks and be done with it.


Think of life on the planet also. How many Carnauba have to die just so
you can keep your tools clean? The best wax comes from baby carnauba
that have been clubbed to death to have the wax extracted. It is very
cruel and should be stopped.

Go ahead and use it but don't cry later when PETA confiscates your
tablesaw and leaves you with a pile of carnauba dung in its place. .

On 2017-06-02, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Think of life on the planet also. How many Carnauba have to die just so
you can keep your tools clean? The best wax comes from baby carnauba
that have been clubbed to death to have the wax extracted. It is very
cruel and should be stopped.

One absurdity deserves another:

A baby harp seal walks into a bar. "Whatya have", the bartender
dutifully grumbles. "Anything but Canadian Club!", answers the seal.

nb

On 6/2/17 7:38 AM, Jack wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:34 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that works
is Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

Exactly, why fool with success. Bostik TopCote works great and is
designed for exactly this purpose. Lasts a long time, easy to apply
and slick as all get out.

Spend a couple of bucks and be done with it.


That's what I tell people every time the subject of removing rust from
table saw top comes up. I say, "Just use Boeshield RustFree and be done
with it."

But there are always people who want to put more work into it. There
are always those who say you need WD-40 and steel wool and to scrub and
reapply, etc, ad nauseam.
Maybe, they get more satisfaction out of the scrubbing and elbow grease,
but I'd rather use the saw, not clean it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 6/2/2017 9:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/2/17 7:38 AM, Jack wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:34 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf wrote:

I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that works
is Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.

Exactly, why fool with success. Bostik TopCote works great and is
designed for exactly this purpose. Lasts a long time, easy to apply
and slick as all get out.

Spend a couple of bucks and be done with it.


That's what I tell people every time the subject of removing rust from
table saw top comes up. I say, "Just use Boeshield RustFree and be done
with it."

But there are always people who want to put more work into it. There
are always those who say you need WD-40 and steel wool and to scrub and
reapply, etc, ad nauseam.
Maybe, they get more satisfaction out of the scrubbing and elbow grease,
but I'd rather use the saw, not clean it.




I think we are talking about "rust prevention" not rust removal.

I think you might be the first advising how to remove. ;~)

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 11:39:36 AM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

Thanks,
Steve

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table-- another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply makes sense-- thanks again.

On 6/2/17 11:15 AM, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2017 9:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 6/2/17 7:38 AM, Jack wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:34 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works. Another product that
works is Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu
wax.

Exactly, why fool with success. Bostik TopCote works great and
is designed for exactly this purpose. Lasts a long time, easy to
apply and slick as all get out.

Spend a couple of bucks and be done with it.


That's what I tell people every time the subject of removing rust
from table saw top comes up. I say, "Just use Boeshield RustFree
and be done with it."

But there are always people who want to put more work into it.
There are always those who say you need WD-40 and steel wool and to
scrub and reapply, etc, ad nauseam. Maybe, they get more
satisfaction out of the scrubbing and elbow grease, but I'd rather
use the saw, not clean it.




I think we are talking about "rust prevention" not rust removal.

I think you might be the first advising how to remove. ;~)

I know that. I was using it as another example of how many people would
rather do much harder work than to use a simpler process/product to
achieve the same/better results with much less effort.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Steve wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table--
another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice
in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply
makes sense-- thanks again.


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 10:14:40 -0700 (PDT), Steve
wrote:

Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

If you've used any of these products before, be sure you *clean* the
top thoroughly before putting anything new on the top. Use the
appropriate "cleaner" for what was used. ...and lots of it.

On 02 Jun 2017 19:07:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table--
another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice
in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply
makes sense-- thanks again.


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Any horizontal space is going to attract "stuff". ;-)

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.

On 6/2/2017 12:14 PM, Steve wrote:
Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

Thanks,
Steve


A hint for using TopCote. For the first application spray a thorough
layer. I typically spray the surface with horizontal strokes, let it
haze over and wipe the film off. The I do the same with vertical strokes.
From that point use it as needed, I touch up if the surface feels
grabby or if I drip sweat on the table. ;~)

On 6/2/2017 4:55 PM, wrote:
On 02 Jun 2017 19:07:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table--
another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice
in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply
makes sense-- thanks again.


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Any horizontal space is going to attract "stuff". ;-)

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.


My experience is that sheet goods warp, the magnetic cover looks promising.

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:08:08 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/2/2017 4:55 PM, wrote:
On 02 Jun 2017 19:07:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table--
another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice
in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply
makes sense-- thanks again.


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Any horizontal space is going to attract "stuff". ;-)

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.


My experience is that sheet goods warp,

I was thinking about something like 3/16" hardboard.


the magnetic cover looks promising.

Worked for me.

On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:11:56 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:



I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?

No, you don't straighten it out once it's on. It's not hard to get
straight, though. I cut an 1/8" slot from the front of the blade to
the rear to clear the blade and splitter/blade cover. I just unroll
in into two halves and slide the slot over the blade and under the
guard, then unroll it both directions. It's a lot easier than it
sounds.

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:19:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

I'm surprised they don't have a cover for SawStop but apparently they
don't. Time to get rid of that piece of junk. Send it to me and I'll
take care of it. ;-)

On 6/2/2017 6:30 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:19:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

I'm surprised they don't have a cover for SawStop but apparently they
don't. Time to get rid of that piece of junk. Send it to me and I'll
take care of it. ;-)



Where should I send it? LOL

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:56:29 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:30 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 18:19:53 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

I'm surprised they don't have a cover for SawStop but apparently they
don't. Time to get rid of that piece of junk. Send it to me and I'll
take care of it. ;-)



Where should I send it? LOL

Don't go out of your way. I'll be over in the morning to pick it up.
;-)

On 6/2/2017 7:19 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

Yeah, yeah, yeah. I bet you used to buy the XL condoms too.

On 6/2/2017 5:55 PM, wrote:
uff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.
I have used the plywood on the table of the saw technique for many years
and never had a problem with the tracks rusting.

Yes it attracts stuff, but im my small work shop the stuff usually gets
put away. I can use the plywood covered table saw as an extra bench to
put glued frames while they dry; a working bench for my portable router
table, a bench when I need a big space for sanding something that will
not fit any where else; etc.

--
2017: The year we lean to play the great game of Euchre

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 20:47:56 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 6/2/2017 7:19 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2017 6:11 PM, Leon wrote:


I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html


The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.



Is it difficult to align, if it starts crooked and does not cover the
surface is it easy to straighten?


Nevermind, my TS top is 30" x 44" The cover would be too small.

Yeah, yeah, yeah. I bet you used to buy the XL condoms too.

Used to? You mean before he was married? ;-)

On Fri, 2 Jun 2017 03:54:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 10:34:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thu, 1 Jun 2017 17:19:33 -0500, gray_wolf
wrote:

On 6/1/2017 12:24 PM, Leon wrote:
On 6/1/2017 10:39 AM, Steve wrote:
Seeking your counsel, folks. I never had a need for a real rust-preventative
on my tools, as my shop was in a reasonably- decent climate-controlled
basement. Bought a new house a couple of years ago and upgraded the shop,
but it's in an uninsulated, unheated garage. Also upgraded the table saw from
a Craftsman contractor saw to the Grizzly hybrid model, and I love it-- except
the surface. I knew this would be a thing, but paste wax had always worked
for me in the past. Paste isn't cutting it now. My band saw table is also
affected; no dice on the wax there either which had always worked for me.

Before you fire off with the usual, please... (1) yes, I will eventually be
insulating, heating, etc. but I still need a short term surface fix.

2) Other materials for my table surface ARE being considered, but for now,
let's focus on the question at hand, please.

3) Yes I have looked and I am aware of the bazillions of previous comments on
this, but believe it or not there's not a comprehensive thread since about
2012 or so, according to my search. There's more like a smattering of comments
embedded in a bunch of other threads. VOC Laws have changed drastically in
many states since then, affecting hundreds of thousands of products in the
chemicals and coatings industries. I'm in consumer-protection-happy
Massachusetts, which has some new regs over the past decade. But I'm also
located on the NH line and believe it or not, recent changes hit New Hampshire
products even harder. (As only an example, I can still get real TSP in Mass,
and I have a better chance of getting decent Alkyds in Mass.)

So my questions are this:

--Are you guys, generally, still using and/or recommending Boeshield and/or
TopCote for this purpose today? What's your experience with these products in
cold/heavy-moisture environments?

-- Have you noticed any decline in the products' effectiveness over the past
decade or so? (Keep in mind, this reply may vary, depending on the regs in
your location.)

-- are there any new products that anyone's been introduced to that are as
effective or better than these two today?

Thanks for your assistance, all
Steve


Wax nor Boeshield ever worked for me at all. With both I immediately had rust
the next morning on brand new equipment.

I live in Houston so I am about 45 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. We get a wind
from the gulf a majority of the time. And humidity is almost always 90% in the
mornings.

My shop in in an uninsulated and unairconditioned garage and has been for the
past 36 years.

The only time I really had a rust issue was when I attempted to use wax and or
Bodshied.

Boeshield works if you heavily coat the surface. BUT you have to wipe off the
film before doing any cutting. End of the day reapply.

For 30+ years I have been using TopKote, Bostitch. At one time it belonged to
Empire. Anyway I apply this product 3~4 times a year and have not found
anything that works better.



I wonder if a vinyl floor wax would work?

Why fool with success? Paste wax works.

Maybe because the OP has clearly stated that "Paste isn't cutting it now."

Another product that works is
Collinite #845 Insulator wax. It is a high carnabu wax.
A GOOD paste wax, properly applied SHOULD do it