On Fri, 02 Jun 2017 17:55:02 -0400, wrote:

On 02 Jun 2017 19:07:33 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Steve wrote in
:

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 1:14:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:

Oh-- and I'll definitely cut a piece of ply to fit over my table--
another great idea, thanks, all.

I had considered a cover or tarp, but didn't think that would suffice
in this environment-- the moisture's simply everywhere. The ply
makes sense-- thanks again.


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Any horizontal space is going to attract "stuff". ;-)

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.
That's where using a "sled" helps - the fence slot gets filed with
wood too. Use paste wax on the bottom of the "sled"

On 6/2/2017 1:14 PM, Steve wrote:
Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

Make sure you get all the rust off first, using whatever you want. When
I bought my (used) tools 40+ years ago I used navel jelly, as the rust
was considerable on the tops. Then I used lacquer thinner to remove any
remaining residue of the rust remover, and got the tops super clean.
Then spray on the Topcoat, let it dry, and put on a second coat.

After that only one coat is needed to freshen it up. How long it lasts
would depend on how much use the tops get, but when I used my tools
daily, I would re-coat about every 6 months or so. Never got any rust
after that and re-coating would take about 5 minutes for all 7 of my
cast iron tops, so it is essentially a labor free task.

I also use it on the screws of bench vices, pipe clamps, bar clamps
C-clamps etc as it keeps them clean, rust free, slick and free spinning.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

On 6/2/2017 12:14 PM, Steve wrote:
Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!



I previously read about a product called "Penetrol" which is a paint
additive you can find at the Big Orange Box for about $10 or less a
quart. Comes in a can like Mineral Spirits.

I had some minor rusting on a saw top that got away from me when it was
stored in an unheated portion of the garage and after I cleaned it up
with the usual means, I applied a liberal coat of Penetrol, let it dry,
and buffed it off. Smooth, slick surface and no further worries.

The other products work well too but this seems more cost effective.
I've put it on ALL my cast iron, the majority of which resides in a
heated and air-conditioned shop.

"Unquestionably Confused"
wrote in message
I previously read about a product called "Penetrol" which
is a paint additive you can find at the Big Orange Box for
about $10 or less a quart. Comes in a can like Mineral
Spirits.

I had some minor rusting on a saw top that got away from
me when it was stored in an unheated portion of the garage
and after I cleaned it up with the usual means, I applied
a liberal coat of Penetrol, let it dry, and buffed it off.
Smooth, slick surface and no further worries.

The other products work well too but this seems more cost
effective. I've put it on ALL my cast iron, the majority
of which resides in a heated and air-conditioned shop.


Penetrol works good on a snowplow blade too! ;)

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 3:07:39 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Steve


A tarp can actually trap moisture, so it will be worse than leaving your
saw uncovered. The plywood, being in intimate contact with the top,
won't have any air space in which to trap moisture and might help.
Personally, I'd give the fancy stuff (topcote or similar) a try and forgo
the top. IMO, a plywood top would encourage setting stuff on the saw.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

Puckdropper: Completely agreed. This is exactly why I didn't drop a tarp onto the table to begin with-- it didn't make sense that it would prevent moisture-- when condensation forms on metal, it does so (generally) whether or not there's a light covering over it. But the plywood... something solid, and of greater weight right over and against the table surface, this makes sense. My slots may suffer a bit, but the surface should do well... um,. I think!

Where do you drop pucks, by the way? I gotta get back on the ice. Old Man, B-, C+ Beer League, more than likely.

Any horizontal space is going to attract "stuff". ;-)

I use one of these. It's been flawless.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

The issue with any cover, plywood included, is that it does nothing to
protect the miter slots (BTW, the plywood should be thin enough that
it sits on the top like a noodle). Any prep tends to get worn off in
these areas, too, making the miter gauge sticky. One has to be
particularly careful to keep these clean.


Thanks, Not-- this is interesting too. Magnets, as opposed to simple 'tarp' also make sense. I'll check it out.
--Yup, I'm already wary of the slots.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:06:11 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/2/2017 12:14 PM, Steve wrote:
Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too.

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

Thanks,
Steve


A hint for using TopCote. For the first application spray a thorough
layer. I typically spray the surface with horizontal strokes, let it
haze over and wipe the film off. The I do the same with vertical strokes.
From that point use it as needed, I touch up if the surface feels
grabby or if I drip sweat on the table. ;~)

Great timing, Leon, thanks. I just got my Top Cote via Amazon (no air freight allowed, probably for aerosols.) Thank you.

On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 8:46:16 PM UTC-4, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Unquestionably Confused"
wrote in message
I previously read about a product called "Penetrol" which
is a paint additive you can find at the Big Orange Box for
about $10 or less a quart. Comes in a can like Mineral
Spirits.

I had some minor rusting on a saw top that got away from
me when it was stored in an unheated portion of the garage
and after I cleaned it up with the usual means, I applied
a liberal coat of Penetrol, let it dry, and buffed it off.
Smooth, slick surface and no further worries.

The other products work well too but this seems more cost
effective. I've put it on ALL my cast iron, the majority
of which resides in a heated and air-conditioned shop.


Penetrol works good on a snowplow blade too! ;)

Penetrol? As in, the Alkyd paint conditioner Penetrol?? This is interesting to me-- kindly let me know.

(hint: Avoid the sister product "Floetrol" at all costs, unless you're spraying!!)

On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 10:06:37 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 6/2/2017 1:14 PM, Steve wrote:
Great info, folks. thank you very much. I think I'm going to give the TopCote a try-- the non-transferring and slicker nature does appeal to me out of both options.

Wax aside, I'm a little surprised there are no new products out there for people, but as a number of you mentioned, 'why mess with a good thing?'

No issues with VOC changes for anyone, either-- that's a good thing too..

I'll repost in a few months or so to let you know how it went, after a while. If I can find a coupon, I'll donate the savings to the baby caranuba efforts. The seal's on his own, though!

Make sure you get all the rust off first, using whatever you want. When
I bought my (used) tools 40+ years ago I used navel jelly, as the rust
was considerable on the tops. Then I used lacquer thinner to remove any
remaining residue of the rust remover, and got the tops super clean.
Then spray on the Topcoat, let it dry, and put on a second coat.

After that only one coat is needed to freshen it up. How long it lasts
would depend on how much use the tops get, but when I used my tools
daily, I would re-coat about every 6 months or so. Never got any rust
after that and re-coating would take about 5 minutes for all 7 of my
cast iron tops, so it is essentially a labor free task.

I also use it on the screws of bench vices, pipe clamps, bar clamps
C-clamps etc as it keeps them clean, rust free, slick and free spinning.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Thanks Jack-- I have a pretty good rust killer that I tested first on an old Black Iron pipe railing at my house that had to be a minimum of 50 years old, and likely older. It's a water base, believe it or not, but it worked like a charm. I intend to dilute it a little for the precise and machined surface of the saw, but yes, this is good advice that someone shouldn't look past.

Steve wrote in
:


Puckdropper: Completely agreed. This is exactly why I didn't drop a
tarp onto the table to begin with-- it didn't make sense that it would
prevent moisture-- when condensation forms on metal, it does so
(generally) whether or not there's a light covering over it. But the
plywood... something solid, and of greater weight right over and
against the table surface, this makes sense. My slots may suffer a
bit, but the surface should do well... um,. I think!

Where do you drop pucks, by the way? I gotta get back on the ice. Old
Man, B-, C+ Beer League, more than likely.

I'm in Central Illinois. I no longer drop pucks but spend a lot of time
chasing them.

Hockey's just too much fun to not play. Sounds like you're at a level
where things just start to get fun. The passes are a lot better, guys
recognize they're offsides within milliseconds, and everyone remembers
when they used to suck so the games aren't too serious.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

On 6/15/2017 8:33 PM, Steve wrote:
On Wednesday, June 7, 2017 at 8:46:16 PM UTC-4, Phil Kangas wrote:
"Unquestionably Confused"
wrote in message
I previously read about a product called "Penetrol" which
is a paint additive you can find at the Big Orange Box for
about $10 or less a quart. Comes in a can like Mineral
Spirits.

I had some minor rusting on a saw top that got away from
me when it was stored in an unheated portion of the garage
and after I cleaned it up with the usual means, I applied
a liberal coat of Penetrol, let it dry, and buffed it off.
Smooth, slick surface and no further worries.

The other products work well too but this seems more cost
effective. I've put it on ALL my cast iron, the majority
of which resides in a heated and air-conditioned shop.


Penetrol works good on a snowplow blade too! ;)

Penetrol? As in, the Alkyd paint conditioner Penetrol?? This is interesting to me-- kindly let me know.

Yep, Steve, Penetrol. Find it a Lowe's, Big Orange, etc. I figured if
nothing else I could probably use it someday for a painting project.
Still sitting in the shop for it's "unintended" purpose.

On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 10:29:13 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:


Yep, Steve, Penetrol. Find it a Lowe's, Big Orange, etc. I figured if
nothing else I could probably use it someday for a painting project.
Still sitting in the shop for it's "unintended" purpose.

Wow. Had no idea. All those times I used it to get that mirror-smooth finish out of old interior oils...get the brush strokes to settle down a little faster. I'm going to have to look into this some more. If not for this, there will always be something else! Thanks for the hint.

On 6/16/2017 2:10 PM, Steve wrote:
On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 10:29:13 PM UTC-4, Unquestionably Confused wrote:


Yep, Steve, Penetrol. Find it a Lowe's, Big Orange, etc. I figured if
nothing else I could probably use it someday for a painting project.
Still sitting in the shop for it's "unintended" purpose.

Wow. Had no idea. All those times I used it to get that mirror-smooth finish out of old interior oils...get the brush strokes to settle down a little faster. I'm going to have to look into this some more. If not for this, there will always be something else! Thanks for the hint.


Start he

http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php

And then Google: "penetrol as rust preventative on tools" or something
similar and settle in for a good read.