11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it
went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate
effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no
other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this
router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full
speed speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

In article , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it
went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate
effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no
other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this
router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full
speed speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

Sounds like the triac in the speed control circuitry has shorted. Take
the router to someone who knows electronics, and have it fixed.

Actually, one can also contact Triton: http://www.tritontools.com.

Joe Gwinn

Joe Gwinn wrote in
:

In article , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly
it went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no
immediate effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed
with no other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I
use this router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router
to go full speed speed when do int that.

Sounds like the triac in the speed control circuitry has shorted.
Take the router to someone who knows electronics, and have it fixed.

Actually, one can also contact Triton: http://www.tritontools.com.

If it went back to the intended speed, then it's unlikely
the triac (or anything else) has shorted. More likely
there's a capacitor in the speed control circuit which
is failing. Or, possibly the connection to the speed
control dial has become intermittant(*).

In any event, the suggestion to have someone knowledgable
in electronics look at it isn't bad. Altho the most
likely thing a tech would say is "replace the control
board" which might cost almost as much as a new router.

John

(* if that is the problem, that's bad design. A good
design would fail safe, by going to minimum speed, not
maximum)

On 9/25/2015 11:13 AM, John McCoy wrote:
Joe Gwinn wrote in
:

In article , Leon
lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly
it went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no
immediate effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed
with no other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I
use this router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router
to go full speed speed when do int that.

Sounds like the triac in the speed control circuitry has shorted.
Take the router to someone who knows electronics, and have it fixed.

Actually, one can also contact Triton: http://www.tritontools.com.

If it went back to the intended speed, then it's unlikely
the triac (or anything else) has shorted. More likely
there's a capacitor in the speed control circuit which
is failing. Or, possibly the connection to the speed
control dial has become intermittant(*).

In any event, the suggestion to have someone knowledgable
in electronics look at it isn't bad. Altho the most
likely thing a tech would say is "replace the control
board" which might cost almost as much as a new router.

If I lived in England the part is about 50 Euros IIRC, A new Triton is
about $300.



John

(* if that is the problem, that's bad design. A good
design would fail safe, by going to minimum speed, not
maximum)

On 9/25/2015 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:

Sounds like the triac in the speed control circuitry has shorted.
Take the router to someone who knows electronics, and have it fixed.

Actually, one can also contact Triton: http://www.tritontools.com.

If it went back to the intended speed, then it's unlikely
the triac (or anything else) has shorted. More likely
there's a capacitor in the speed control circuit which
is failing. Or, possibly the connection to the speed
control dial has become intermittant(*).

In any event, the suggestion to have someone knowledgable
in electronics look at it isn't bad. Altho the most
likely thing a tech would say is "replace the control
board" which might cost almost as much as a new router.

If I lived in England the part is about 50 Euros IIRC, A new Triton is
about $300.

With shipping about a third the price of a new one. Won't they ship to
the US?

On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 09:46:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it
went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate
effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no
other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this
router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full
speed speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

I use a PC7518 motor in a lift.

On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 09:46:44 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

it sounds like you want to buy something new but

do a tear-down and post it on youtube

maybe it is dusty

if it's a bad capacitor sometimes that can be very obvious and they are
cheap
do you have a festool soldering iron


or if you don't solder than check ebay for a similar router and
use it for parts

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Ae-
:


If I lived in England the part is about 50 Euros IIRC, A new Triton is
about $300.

England doesn't use Euros. They use the Pound Sterling.

Not sure what the current exchange rates are, but 50 Euro
is ballpark $50, and 50 Pounds is around $75.

John

On 9/25/2015 10:46 AM, Leon wrote:
11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed. Anyway
the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it went
to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate effect
but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no other
issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this router
to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full speed
speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
So before you do that.
Take it apart and blow out the switches.

Are you using a DC connected to the cabinet?
if you are this could be the problem.
Most all routers blow from the head to the bit to cool.
When you do a Norm type table you are killing the router.
A) it overheats as you are starving it of air
B) you overpower the fan and pull the dust through the motor to the
switch... I had gone through a number of switches before I finally wised
up. No more problems.

If you clean out the switch use some contact cleaner after blowing it
out. An on off switch is easier to clean than the speed control, but
try it anyway.

--
Jeff

On 9/25/2015 12:24 PM, krw wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 09:46:44 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it
went to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate
effect but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no
other issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this
router to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full
speed speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

I use a PC7518 motor in a lift.

That has crossed my mind also, quite a few times 11 years ago before I
went with the Triton. It is butt ugly but is designed to go from the
work bench to the router table with out changing bases. It pretty much
covered all the bases.

I can go Triton again and be done or a new big router and lift for about
twice the price.

Thank you.

On 9/25/2015 12:03 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/25/2015 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:

Sounds like the triac in the speed control circuitry has shorted.
Take the router to someone who knows electronics, and have it fixed.

Actually, one can also contact Triton: http://www.tritontools.com.

If it went back to the intended speed, then it's unlikely
the triac (or anything else) has shorted. More likely
there's a capacitor in the speed control circuit which
is failing. Or, possibly the connection to the speed
control dial has become intermittant(*).

In any event, the suggestion to have someone knowledgable
in electronics look at it isn't bad. Altho the most
likely thing a tech would say is "replace the control
board" which might cost almost as much as a new router.

If I lived in England the part is about 50 Euros IIRC, A new Triton is
about $300.

With shipping about a third the price of a new one. Won't they ship to
the US?


I got a response and I "think" they are actually here in the US. They
have explained that they are working on converting the prices over to
US$. They are saying, as you indicated, about $100 shipped. I'm
checking further as to how long,a closer estimate of price, etc.

On 9/25/2015 2:41 PM, John McCoy wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:Ae-
:


If I lived in England the part is about 50 Euros IIRC, A new Triton is
about $300.

England doesn't use Euros. They use the Pound Sterling.

Not sure what the current exchange rates are, but 50 Euro
is ballpark $50, and 50 Pounds is around $75.

John

My mistake, I believe you are correct on the exchange rate. Probably
closer to $90 with shipping.

On 9/25/2015 2:11 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 09:46:44 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

it sounds like you want to buy something new but

The thing is 11 years old so it's a gamble but probably the best way to
go, repairing.


do a tear-down and post it on youtube

That would be very boring. Remove two 1.5" long screws, remove the cap
and lift the speed control off, disconnect the three electrical push
pull connectors. There would almost be more to see watching me move
router from the router table to the work bench. ;~)


maybe it is dusty

I considered that but once the top cap was off it was surprisingly clean
inside. Just a touch of dust. The speed control module is a housed
circuit board and heat sink with a dark resin sealing it all in.



if it's a bad capacitor sometimes that can be very obvious and they are
cheap.

You can not see anything other than the speed dial, three wires and the
heat sink.


do you have a festool soldering iron

NO! Where did you see one???? ;~)

On 9/25/2015 3:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/25/2015 10:46 AM, Leon wrote:
11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed. Anyway
the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it went
to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate effect
but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no other
issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this router
to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full speed
speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
So before you do that.
Take it apart and blow out the switches.

Are you using a DC connected to the cabinet?
if you are this could be the problem.
Most all routers blow from the head to the bit to cool.
When you do a Norm type table you are killing the router.
A) it overheats as you are starving it of air
B) you overpower the fan and pull the dust through the motor to the
switch... I had gone through a number of switches before I finally wised
up. No more problems.

If you clean out the switch use some contact cleaner after blowing it
out. An on off switch is easier to clean than the speed control, but
try it anyway.


I opened the top, where the speed controller is located and found a
pretty clean environment. I suspected that it was heating up from dust
build up. BUT it goes full speed immediately some times after sitting
long enough to totally cool off.
Anyway, here is what it looks like and there is really nowhere dust will
collect.
http://www.toolsparesonline.com/prod...ller-110v.aspx

BUT I think I will spray cleaner on it as you mentioned just in case
something I can't see is in there. Thank you

On 9/25/2015 4:59 PM, Leon wrote:
On 9/25/2015 3:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/25/2015 10:46 AM, Leon wrote:
11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed. Anyway
the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it went
to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate effect
but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no other
issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this router
to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full speed
speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
So before you do that.
Take it apart and blow out the switches.

Are you using a DC connected to the cabinet?
if you are this could be the problem.
Most all routers blow from the head to the bit to cool.
When you do a Norm type table you are killing the router.
A) it overheats as you are starving it of air
B) you overpower the fan and pull the dust through the motor to the
switch... I had gone through a number of switches before I finally wised
up. No more problems.

If you clean out the switch use some contact cleaner after blowing it
out. An on off switch is easier to clean than the speed control, but
try it anyway.


I opened the top, where the speed controller is located and found a
pretty clean environment. I suspected that it was heating up from dust
build up. BUT it goes full speed immediately some times after sitting
long enough to totally cool off.
Anyway, here is what it looks like and there is really nowhere dust will
collect.
http://www.toolsparesonline.com/prod...ller-110v.aspx

BUT I think I will spray cleaner on it as you mentioned just in case
something I can't see is in there. Thank you


So underneath the dial is the pot. Take the dial off, see if there is a
dust shield over the pot. if there is remove it and blow it out. Then
spray contact cleaner. My two cents.

--
Jeff

On 9/25/2015 4:12 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/25/2015 4:59 PM, Leon wrote:
On 9/25/2015 3:26 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/25/2015 10:46 AM, Leon wrote:
11 years ago I bought a Triton 3.5 hp router to hang in my router
table.
It has worked flawlessly up until a couple of days ago.

It has variable speed electronic feed back to regulate the speed.
Anyway
the router was operating at a lower speed setting and suddenly it went
to full speed. Turning the speed control dial had no immediate effect
but eventually the router went back to the set speed with no other
issues. It has done this every time since that day. I use this router
to spin raised panel bits but do not want the router to go full speed
speed when do int that.

Anyway locating a replacement part is looking difficult.

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to
spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
So before you do that.
Take it apart and blow out the switches.

Are you using a DC connected to the cabinet?
if you are this could be the problem.
Most all routers blow from the head to the bit to cool.
When you do a Norm type table you are killing the router.
A) it overheats as you are starving it of air
B) you overpower the fan and pull the dust through the motor to the
switch... I had gone through a number of switches before I finally wised
up. No more problems.

If you clean out the switch use some contact cleaner after blowing it
out. An on off switch is easier to clean than the speed control, but
try it anyway.


I opened the top, where the speed controller is located and found a
pretty clean environment. I suspected that it was heating up from dust
build up. BUT it goes full speed immediately some times after sitting
long enough to totally cool off.
Anyway, here is what it looks like and there is really nowhere dust will
collect.
http://www.toolsparesonline.com/prod...ller-110v.aspx

BUT I think I will spray cleaner on it as you mentioned just in case
something I can't see is in there. Thank you


So underneath the dial is the pot. Take the dial off, see if there is a
dust shield over the pot. if there is remove it and blow it out. Then
spray contact cleaner. My two cents.


Ok, did that, the dial came off, then a small plastic dust shield and
some copper fingers. Totally clean inside but I gave it a shot of
electrical cleaner and blew it dry.
Reassembled and within about 3 seconds it was a runaway motor again.
BUT I turned it off and unplugged it, repluged it in and it immediately
went to full speed again but after a few seconds it slowed down and
worked normally. Oddly it seems to work correctly after it warms up.

We'll see. Thanks.

On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 15:54:06 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

That would be very boring. Remove two 1.5" long screws, remove the
cap and lift the speed control off, disconnect the three electrical
push pull connectors. There would almost be more to see watching me
move router from the router table to the work bench. ;~)

are tear-downs not boring
has that stopped anyone from watching them
they get an amazing number of views

the entertainment factor was not the reason
the reason is that more eyes get to have a look

I considered that but once the top cap was off it was surprisingly
clean inside. Just a touch of dust. The speed control module is a
housed circuit board and heat sink with a dark resin sealing it all
in.

if it is potted than there is not much to do

NO! Where did you see one???? ;~)

the festool of soldering irons is the metcal
they also are very quiet

you oughta do videos
based on all your contributions here you would probably have lots to say
probably easily get festool and sawstop to sponsor your channel

"Leon" wrote:

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
A few years ago that big Milwaukee was on top of the heap.

Not sure where things are today.

An electronics swap out would be most desireable if you
can figure out a way to do it.

Lew

On 9/25/2015 5:01 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote:

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
A few years ago that big Milwaukee was on top of the heap.

Not sure where things are today.

An electronics swap out would be most desireable if you
can figure out a way to do it.

Lew


I was quoted $78. for the part, shipped, so that is what I am going to
go with if the situation persists.

On 9/25/2015 4:54 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 15:54:06 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

That would be very boring. Remove two 1.5" long screws, remove the
cap and lift the speed control off, disconnect the three electrical
push pull connectors. There would almost be more to see watching me
move router from the router table to the work bench. ;~)

are tear-downs not boring
has that stopped anyone from watching them
they get an amazing number of views

Yeah, I'm not one that wants to get into that. Too much time to invest
and equipment.



the entertainment factor was not the reason
the reason is that more eyes get to have a look

I considered that but once the top cap was off it was surprisingly
clean inside. Just a touch of dust. The speed control module is a
housed circuit board and heat sink with a dark resin sealing it all
in.

if it is potted than there is not much to do

I'm guessing it is potted...



NO! Where did you see one???? ;~)

the festool of soldering irons is the metcal
they also are very quiet

Oh... ;~)



you oughta do videos
based on all your contributions here you would probably have lots to say
probably easily get festool and sawstop to sponsor your channel

Yeah that would be another job. I wold rather be building things rather
than "possibly" having a lot of people watching me pretty much build
nothing. There are a lot of well done videos of equipment that has
hardly been used. I'm not that guy.

On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

On 9/26/2015 3:17 AM, wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 22:33:58 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/25/2015 4:54 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 15:54:06 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

That would be very boring. Remove two 1.5" long screws, remove the
cap and lift the speed control off, disconnect the three electrical
push pull connectors. There would almost be more to see watching me
move router from the router table to the work bench. ;~)

are tear-downs not boring
has that stopped anyone from watching them
they get an amazing number of views

Yeah, I'm not one that wants to get into that. Too much time to invest
and equipment.

Festool doesn't make camera equipment, either. ;-)

Really, the equipment isn't expensive but I'd have no interest in
doing this either.



the entertainment factor was not the reason
the reason is that more eyes get to have a look

I considered that but once the top cap was off it was surprisingly
clean inside. Just a touch of dust. The speed control module is a
housed circuit board and heat sink with a dark resin sealing it all
in.

if it is potted than there is not much to do

I'm guessing it is potted...



NO! Where did you see one???? ;~)

the festool of soldering irons is the metcal
they also are very quiet

Oh... ;~)

Metcals were nice ten years ago. I gave mine away after I used one of
the new Wellers (and they're about half the price). When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.



you oughta do videos
based on all your contributions here you would probably have lots to say
probably easily get festool and sawstop to sponsor your channel

Yeah that would be another job. I wold rather be building things rather
than "possibly" having a lot of people watching me pretty much build
nothing. There are a lot of well done videos of equipment that has
hardly been used. I'm not that guy.

krw wrote in
:


Metcals were nice ten years ago. I gave mine away after I used one of
the new Wellers (and they're about half the price). When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.


Just curious... Which one you'd get? I've got an American Beauty that's
getting to be a young friend. I'll probably keep it for at least another 4
decades, it's only halfway through its first.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 9/26/2015 3:17 AM, wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to
spin big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table
bit changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would
like to have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old
tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how
many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years
in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool
and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the
bearings and brushes were still good.

Actually that tool does not see nearly as much action as the previous
router. I use it mostly to round over edges, 1/8" radius. And raised
panels, the occasional wood top edge treatment ans so on.

I really like the tool, I have not wanted for another feature to be on
the machine.



Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of
trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of
routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But
the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones
steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some
reason, although that may be wrong.

Current reputation is what would cause me any concern on the Speedmatic



So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I
passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor
the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now
made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of
room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To
me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the
table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a
1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

The handles are kinda weird but I would probably remove them for hanging
under the table. I probably would never use it anywhere else. I have a
huge Bosch plunge router used to be in the table but what a beast to
adjust, even with the various add on to make it easier to use.
FWIW the Triton only came with the half inch collet but came with a
multi segmented 1/4" adapter that has worked surprisingly well.

When I took the end cap off to view the innards I was almost in
disbelief that the insides were so clean. About the only thing that had
a layer of dust, and a very thin one at that, were the wires. Hardly
anything anywhere else. I will say that the air flow through the router
is pretty strong.



So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and
haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got
this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice
soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable.
This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this
is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made.
It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The
electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a
breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm


Humm. I'll keep that one in mind should I need to go that route.




for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made
nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice
looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at
the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid
of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper.
There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his
panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged
in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and
although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even
figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am
thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look
safe to me.

With the Triton I can turn the speed way down and seriously I have no
issue with the horizontal bits. It cuts lit butt'a and is a relatively
quiet operation. I do however spin the better quality bits when doing
raised panels and I keep the bit covered with the fence so I am only
seeing about 1/4 exposure of the bit. And I typically make 3~4 passes,
just taking a little out at a time.






I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table
saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The
vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since
you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large
horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of
doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes,
edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop
designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating,
and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made
that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid
performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time
to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold,
aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is
that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its
class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large
phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I
still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit
extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think
this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change the
bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.

Thank you Robert!

On 26 Sep 2015 13:14:11 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

krw wrote in
:


Metcals were nice ten years ago. I gave mine away after I used one of
the new Wellers (and they're about half the price). When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.


Just curious... Which one you'd get? I've got an American Beauty that's
getting to be a young friend. I'll probably keep it for at least another 4
decades, it's only halfway through its first.

Weller WX2 base with a variety of pencils, tweezers, and tips. Like
the Metcal, it's designed for electronics not general purpose work.
They do have a 120W pencil that works great on large copper areas but
this thing is complete overkill, or worse, if you're replacing an
American Beauty.

wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

My DeWalt electronics died, and I replaced them. It is in my router
table and is seldom used anymore, but it works fine. Bought it in the
early 90's.

--
GW Ross

Never drink from your finger bowl, it
contains only water.

On 9/26/2015 8:07 AM, krw wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 22:33:58 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/25/2015 4:54 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 15:54:06 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

That would be very boring. Remove two 1.5" long screws, remove the
cap and lift the speed control off, disconnect the three electrical
push pull connectors. There would almost be more to see watching me
move router from the router table to the work bench. ;~)

are tear-downs not boring
has that stopped anyone from watching them
they get an amazing number of views

Yeah, I'm not one that wants to get into that. Too much time to invest
and equipment.

Festool doesn't make camera equipment, either. ;-)

Yeah! the odds would be stacked against me. ;~)


Really, the equipment isn't expensive but I'd have no interest in
doing this either.

Time would be the biggest expense. Take 43, walking out into the shop
and greeting the audience. ;~) I have put a couple of videos up showing
a few things I do, on Flickr. But I don't want to clean the shop up, or
put in music that will appeal to 25% of the audience. Or spend my time
answering questions to the YouTube world.




the entertainment factor was not the reason
the reason is that more eyes get to have a look

I considered that but once the top cap was off it was surprisingly
clean inside. Just a touch of dust. The speed control module is a
housed circuit board and heat sink with a dark resin sealing it all
in.

if it is potted than there is not much to do

I'm guessing it is potted...



NO! Where did you see one???? ;~)

the festool of soldering irons is the metcal
they also are very quiet

Oh... ;~)

Metcals were nice ten years ago. I gave mine away after I used one of
the new Wellers (and they're about half the price). When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.

I had an old Radio Shack trigger model that finally gave up. I have
never had any thing tiny for little circuits. I had a larger iron that
I used for soldering stained glass and I have an old one that my father
used with Western Electric back in the 40's, it's about 14" long.

krw wrote in
:


When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

John

(who remembers when 1206 was considered small...)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

immediately went to full speed again but after a few seconds it slowed
down and worked normally. Oddly it seems to work correctly after it
warms up.

Very characteristic of a capacitor failing.

John

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

krw wrote in
:


When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

John

(who remembers when 1206 was considered small...)

John that is why they make mlcroscopes.

On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:21:41 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change the
bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.


I have been online looking at the Triton routers this morning and there sure seems to be a lot to commend that machine. When I bought my DeWalt, there was no Triton here in the USA, maybe somewhere but Woodcraft introduced them locally after I had purchased my machine. Then I recall there was a "bad batch" that ticked off my contact there, but that was many, many years ago.

Seems they have it all together, now. Read a lot of glowing reviews on the Triton's power, a bit difficult for some but really accurate adjustments and its reliability. Leon, am I reading this right about this router that you can crank the height adjustment from the bottom of the router so that when it is in a table you can use a wrench and adjust it from above? That would be a pretty nifty feature!

Robert

On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 22:33:58 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Yeah, I'm not one that wants to get into that. Too much time to
invest and equipment.

interestingly it is much simpler now
a gopro with all ths shop lights on

I'm guessing it is potted...

you said it was sealed in dark resin so yes it is potted
i guess for stability and for harsh environment

Oh... ;~)

they are very nice
no temperature to set
turn it on and go

Yeah that would be another job. I wold rather be building things
rather than "possibly" having a lot of people watching me pretty much
build nothing. There are a lot of well done videos of equipment

there is the angle right there
videos by someone that actually really makes stuff

that has hardly been used. I'm not that guy.

do like paul sellers does
employs his son to shoot the video
you could be a job creator
a popular channel on youtube can be very significant

On 9/26/2015 11:28 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:21:41 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change
the bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.


I have been online looking at the Triton routers this morning and
there sure seems to be a lot to commend that machine. When I bought
my DeWalt, there was no Triton here in the USA, maybe somewhere but
Woodcraft introduced them locally after I had purchased my machine.
Then I recall there was a "bad batch" that ticked off my contact
there, but that was many, many years ago.

Kind of a jack of all trades type router.


Seems they have it all together, now. Read a lot of glowing reviews
on the Triton's power, a bit difficult for some but really accurate
adjustments and its reliability. Leon, am I reading this right about
this router that you can crank the height adjustment from the bottom
of the router so that when it is in a table you can use a wrench and
adjust it from above? That would be a pretty nifty feature!

Robert


I can't verify whether you can make adjustments from the top of the
table or not. That is not an uncommon trait to many routers these days,
Including the Bosch 1617 EVS. I have that router too but an early one
and it did not yet have that feature. I bought it in 1998.

Back to the Triton, my Triton. There is a dial inside the end of one of
the handles that converts the router from fixed base to a plunge router.
I use it in the fixed base router configuration in my router table.
The router is also built for easy spring removal for upside down
configurations. For coarse adjustments you release the lock lever,
found on most plunge routers, and pull in on an inner ring on the handle
with the dial and twist the handle, that gives you the fast coarse
adjustment. Then there is a small black stand alone knob that lets you
fine tune the height adjustment. It is so easy to use that set up and I
have not wanted for an above table adjustment set up.
Most of the time when I make the fine adjustment I squat down and look
across the top of the table at the bit. The fine adjust knob is on the
front side of the router in this set up and might be easier to reach
than from the top of the table when in a squatting position.


I did just go to the Triton web site and watched the video. It does
appear that the TRA001 now has a roll pin "T" at the opposite end of the
fine adjustment knob. Looks like a small slotted pipe would engage that
from the top side of the router table.

I bought mine during the controversy, IIRC it was all about the door you
slide open to flip the power switch. Apparently the door was trapping
dust and causing problems. My router has a bellows like seal around the
rocker switch behind that door. I have not has one issue with that
configuration.

FWIW this particular router has not seen extensive use but I have used
it for hours on end non stop at multiple times. When I was first
looking at this router it reminded me of of something you might find at
Harbor Freight, except for the price. I was not and still am not
impressed with its looks. ;~) But all that aside I have not had a
moments trouble out of it since I got it up until now.

IMHO it is perfect for the router table. I am not at all a fan of a
single wrench for changing bits routers. This is a single wrench
router. In a router table this is not an issue. The only way to loosen
or tighten the collet is to extend the router full up/down. This action
engages a spring loaded shaft lock. The router base actually pushes the
lock into place. Stupid simple.
If the router is being used free hand I dislike, like any router with
single wrench bit change, having to grab the router where ever you can
get a good grip and turning the wrench with the other. I prefer
squeezing two winches in my hand for that procedure. In a router table,
I don't care, the table is holding the router. This is not a unique
problem with the Triton.

Like most any huge plunge router this one might be a bit top heavy in a
stand alone plunge configured set up.

On 9/26/2015 11:29 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
On Fri, 25 Sep 2015 22:33:58 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Yeah, I'm not one that wants to get into that. Too much time to
invest and equipment.

interestingly it is much simpler now
a gopro with all ths shop lights on

I'm guessing it is potted...

you said it was sealed in dark resin so yes it is potted
i guess for stability and for harsh environment

Oh... ;~)

they are very nice
no temperature to set
turn it on and go

Yeah that would be another job. I wold rather be building things
rather than "possibly" having a lot of people watching me pretty much
build nothing. There are a lot of well done videos of equipment

there is the angle right there
videos by someone that actually really makes stuff

that has hardly been used. I'm not that guy.

do like paul sellers does
employs his son to shoot the video
you could be a job creator
a popular channel on youtube can be very significant


The New Texan Workshop and a star on the Hollywood walk of fame.
I might be getting ahead of myself. ;~)

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 12:13:45 -0500
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

The New Texan Workshop and a star on the Hollywood walk of fame.
I might be getting ahead of myself. ;~)

yeah but what i meant originally is that a popular channel on youtube can
mean significant income
some quit their day jobs

so if you found the right person it could be worth their time too
you do the woodwork
someone else does the video

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

krw wrote in
:


When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

1005s (Metric) are 0402s (Imperial) are our "standard" parts but we do
use some 0201s (0603 metric), as well. I've seen 01005s (1/4 again as
big) but haven't used them (don't sneeze!). The 0201s are generally
used as decoupling capacitors so rarely have to be touched.

John

(who remembers when 1206 was considered small...)

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 09:42:39 -0500, Markem
wrote:

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

krw wrote in
m:


When you're
soldering components that are as small as .5mm x 1mm, or even smaller
the tools matter.

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

John

(who remembers when 1206 was considered small...)

John that is why they make mlcroscopes.

These are amazing tools:

http://www.visioneng.com/products/st...ion-microscope

You can move your head around and actually see around
components. They're much easier on the eyes than traditional
microscopes.

krw wrote in news:2m9e0b1174n4nfuljp5kqg0h9d026rbff1@
4ax.com:

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

1005s (Metric) are 0402s (Imperial) are our "standard" parts but we do
use some 0201s (0603 metric), as well. I've seen 01005s (1/4 again as
big) but haven't used them (don't sneeze!). The 0201s are generally
used as decoupling capacitors so rarely have to be touched.

Interesting. I don't think we have any 0201 caps, our 0201
parts are all resistors. I wish they were all 0402.

And we have 05001s too, but not on any of the stuff I work on.
Thankfully!

John

On Sun, 27 Sep 2015 13:43:12 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

krw wrote in news:2m9e0b1174n4nfuljp5kqg0h9d026rbff1@
4ax.com:

On Sat, 26 Sep 2015 14:14:14 +0000 (UTC), John McCoy
wrote:

You're soldering 0201s? I can't even see the damn
things. Thank god for the ladies in the lab with
good eyesight and steady hands...

1005s (Metric) are 0402s (Imperial) are our "standard" parts but we do
use some 0201s (0603 metric), as well. I've seen 01005s (1/4 again as
big) but haven't used them (don't sneeze!). The 0201s are generally
used as decoupling capacitors so rarely have to be touched.

Interesting. I don't think we have any 0201 caps, our 0201
parts are all resistors. I wish they were all 0402.

0201s fit between BGA pads to keep the caps close to the pins they're
decoupling (minimize inductance). For reliability reasons, they're
not allowed for any other purpose. 0402 is the minimum size, and
everything tends to the smallest possible (cost and space).

And we have 05001s too, but not on any of the stuff I work on.
Thankfully!