On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.
The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.
Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.
You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.
Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.
So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.
http://goo.gl/65ZlAt
I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.
So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.
http://goo.gl/28zZBr
It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these
http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm
for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.
I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.
I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.
The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.
Robert