On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

On 9/26/2015 3:17 AM, wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

On 9/26/2015 3:17 AM, wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to
spin big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table
bit changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would
like to have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old
tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how
many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years
in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool
and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the
bearings and brushes were still good.

Actually that tool does not see nearly as much action as the previous
router. I use it mostly to round over edges, 1/8" radius. And raised
panels, the occasional wood top edge treatment ans so on.

I really like the tool, I have not wanted for another feature to be on
the machine.



Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of
trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of
routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But
the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones
steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some
reason, although that may be wrong.

Current reputation is what would cause me any concern on the Speedmatic



So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I
passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor
the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now
made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of
room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To
me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the
table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a
1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

The handles are kinda weird but I would probably remove them for hanging
under the table. I probably would never use it anywhere else. I have a
huge Bosch plunge router used to be in the table but what a beast to
adjust, even with the various add on to make it easier to use.
FWIW the Triton only came with the half inch collet but came with a
multi segmented 1/4" adapter that has worked surprisingly well.

When I took the end cap off to view the innards I was almost in
disbelief that the insides were so clean. About the only thing that had
a layer of dust, and a very thin one at that, were the wires. Hardly
anything anywhere else. I will say that the air flow through the router
is pretty strong.



So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and
haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got
this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice
soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable.
This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this
is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made.
It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The
electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a
breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm


Humm. I'll keep that one in mind should I need to go that route.




for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made
nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice
looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at
the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid
of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper.
There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his
panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged
in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and
although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even
figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am
thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look
safe to me.

With the Triton I can turn the speed way down and seriously I have no
issue with the horizontal bits. It cuts lit butt'a and is a relatively
quiet operation. I do however spin the better quality bits when doing
raised panels and I keep the bit covered with the fence so I am only
seeing about 1/4 exposure of the bit. And I typically make 3~4 passes,
just taking a little out at a time.






I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table
saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The
vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since
you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large
horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of
doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes,
edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop
designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating,
and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made
that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid
performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time
to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold,
aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is
that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its
class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large
phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I
still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit
extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think
this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change the
bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.

Thank you Robert!

On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:21:41 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change the
bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.


I have been online looking at the Triton routers this morning and there sure seems to be a lot to commend that machine. When I bought my DeWalt, there was no Triton here in the USA, maybe somewhere but Woodcraft introduced them locally after I had purchased my machine. Then I recall there was a "bad batch" that ticked off my contact there, but that was many, many years ago.

Seems they have it all together, now. Read a lot of glowing reviews on the Triton's power, a bit difficult for some but really accurate adjustments and its reliability. Leon, am I reading this right about this router that you can crank the height adjustment from the bottom of the router so that when it is in a table you can use a wrench and adjust it from above? That would be a pretty nifty feature!

Robert

On 9/26/2015 11:28 AM, wrote:
On Saturday, September 26, 2015 at 8:21:41 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

What wold turn me off on any router would to not be able to change
the bit from above the table. BUT I'll keep an eye on the DeWalt.


I have been online looking at the Triton routers this morning and
there sure seems to be a lot to commend that machine. When I bought
my DeWalt, there was no Triton here in the USA, maybe somewhere but
Woodcraft introduced them locally after I had purchased my machine.
Then I recall there was a "bad batch" that ticked off my contact
there, but that was many, many years ago.

Kind of a jack of all trades type router.


Seems they have it all together, now. Read a lot of glowing reviews
on the Triton's power, a bit difficult for some but really accurate
adjustments and its reliability. Leon, am I reading this right about
this router that you can crank the height adjustment from the bottom
of the router so that when it is in a table you can use a wrench and
adjust it from above? That would be a pretty nifty feature!

Robert


I can't verify whether you can make adjustments from the top of the
table or not. That is not an uncommon trait to many routers these days,
Including the Bosch 1617 EVS. I have that router too but an early one
and it did not yet have that feature. I bought it in 1998.

Back to the Triton, my Triton. There is a dial inside the end of one of
the handles that converts the router from fixed base to a plunge router.
I use it in the fixed base router configuration in my router table.
The router is also built for easy spring removal for upside down
configurations. For coarse adjustments you release the lock lever,
found on most plunge routers, and pull in on an inner ring on the handle
with the dial and twist the handle, that gives you the fast coarse
adjustment. Then there is a small black stand alone knob that lets you
fine tune the height adjustment. It is so easy to use that set up and I
have not wanted for an above table adjustment set up.
Most of the time when I make the fine adjustment I squat down and look
across the top of the table at the bit. The fine adjust knob is on the
front side of the router in this set up and might be easier to reach
than from the top of the table when in a squatting position.


I did just go to the Triton web site and watched the video. It does
appear that the TRA001 now has a roll pin "T" at the opposite end of the
fine adjustment knob. Looks like a small slotted pipe would engage that
from the top side of the router table.

I bought mine during the controversy, IIRC it was all about the door you
slide open to flip the power switch. Apparently the door was trapping
dust and causing problems. My router has a bellows like seal around the
rocker switch behind that door. I have not has one issue with that
configuration.

FWIW this particular router has not seen extensive use but I have used
it for hours on end non stop at multiple times. When I was first
looking at this router it reminded me of of something you might find at
Harbor Freight, except for the price. I was not and still am not
impressed with its looks. ;~) But all that aside I have not had a
moments trouble out of it since I got it up until now.

IMHO it is perfect for the router table. I am not at all a fan of a
single wrench for changing bits routers. This is a single wrench
router. In a router table this is not an issue. The only way to loosen
or tighten the collet is to extend the router full up/down. This action
engages a spring loaded shaft lock. The router base actually pushes the
lock into place. Stupid simple.
If the router is being used free hand I dislike, like any router with
single wrench bit change, having to grab the router where ever you can
get a good grip and turning the wrench with the other. I prefer
squeezing two winches in my hand for that procedure. In a router table,
I don't care, the table is holding the router. This is not a unique
problem with the Triton.

Like most any huge plunge router this one might be a bit top heavy in a
stand alone plunge configured set up.

wrote:
On Friday, September 25, 2015 at 9:47:00 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In the event I have to replace this router, what are y'all using to spin
big bits in a router table.

The Triton has VS, fine and coarse depth control, above the table bit
changes, and plenty of power to spin those large bits. I would like to
have the same features.

Suggestions? I have strongly considered the big Milwaukee.

You know, I don't know what I would do if I had an eleven year old tool that needed repair. I would think I would be figuring out how many road miles it had on it before I would repair it. Eleven years in _your_ shop seems like a really long run. But if I liked the tool and its results, I could be pretty forgiving, in this case if the bearings and brushes were still good.

Many years ago I needed to cut some door panels and make a bunch of trim for a really neat custom job I landed. I looked at a lot of routers and at that time the big Porter Cable was still around. But the build quality had fallen so much those that had the newer ones steered me away. I seem to remember screeching bearings for some reason, although that may be wrong.

So that left Hitachi, Milwaukee and DeWalt. Don't remember why I passed the Hitachi. Didn't like the fit/finish of the Milwaukee, nor the fact that the soft start wasn't very soft at all. IIRC, it is now made in China and with a few manufacturing changes is a good router.

http://goo.gl/65ZlAt

I HATE those damn handles, and under a table they take up a lot of room. Also, upside down, this machine is a nightmare to adjust. To me, this tool was made to be a lightweight shaper that never left the table. Also, from time to time I still use 1/4" shank bits, and a 1/4" collet does not come with this machine. It is another $40-$50.

So down to the DeWalt. Not always crazy about their tools, and haven't always had great luck with them lasting. However, when I got this machine home, it was love when I switched it on. Really nice soft start, not nearly as loud as the Milwaukee or the Porter Cable. This one came with the 1/4" collet in the box.

http://goo.gl/28zZBr

It has plenty of power, doesn't require a suitcase sized table (this is very similar in size to the Triton) and is extremely well made. It is made in Italy by Elu from Italian and Swiss parts. The electronic speed control has been flawless. Under the table it is a breeze to adjust since I bought one of these

http://www.toolnut.com/DeWalt_DW6966...r_p/dw6966.htm

for it. Some of the guys online that showed me their setups made nice adjusters with a piece of pipe, a coupler nut and turned a nice looking wood knob for the same purpose. When I found that for $15 at the time I purchased it, it was a no brainer.

I don't know your setup for raising panels, but I am honestly afraid of the horizontally spinning router bits that should be in a shaper. There was a guy here locally that was using CMT bits to raise his panels and the bit broke and nicked him and half of the head lodged in the garage wall. At the time I was also on Sawmill Creek, and although quite rare, a couple of fellows had the same result. Even figuring in that at least one wasn't using the setup correctly, I am thinking about a bit going in a machine that in use just doesn't look safe to me.

I put the panels on edge and cut away as much as possible on a table saw. Then I use a vertical panel raising bit to make my cuts. The vertical bits cut a bit slower than the horizontally mounted since you don't have the momentum behind that develops behind that large horizontal head, but the finish is fine. I never have made a lot of doors and now rarely do. The router has plenty of power for dadoes, edging, and making passes with odd bits to make some "one off" shop designed trims. It can profile cut ton of trim without overheating, and creates enough air flow around it even in the closed box I made that it doesn't overheat. This router has been a really solid performer and a joy for me to use. It has left the table from time to time to edge or trim something as needed and it is easy to hold, aim and use.

The only knock I have heard (but not found to be a problem for me) is that it doesn't plunge as deeply as some of the other routers in its class. I got rid of the base that came on it and made a really large phenolic base, and even after losing the thickness of the base, I still have no problems. If I did, I would probably buy a bit extender and be done with it, but at this point no problems. I think this is one DeWalt got right.

Robert

My DeWalt electronics died, and I replaced them. It is in my router
table and is seldom used anymore, but it works fine. Bought it in the
early 90's.

--
GW Ross

Never drink from your finger bowl, it
contains only water.