Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed
Frozen fingers!

On 1/5/2015 7:48 PM, MJ wrote:
Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed
Frozen fingers!


Pretty good timing, got this in the email from fine homebuilding today.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...ilding-eletter


--
Jeff

On 1/5/15 6:48 PM, MJ wrote:
Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's
disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when
use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm
looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think
they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to
be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed Frozen fingers!


We use an oil-filled radiant heater all over the house and it's in my
garage right now.
It should do fine in your garage, especially if it doesn't get below 40.
It won't heat things up fast, so you'll want to keep it on, but it has
a thermostat so you can turn it down when you're not in there. They
have them with timers, too, so it could change automatically if you
wanted.

Since there is no open flame or exposed heating element, there are
pretty safe around sawdust and flammable vapors.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"MJ" wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's
disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.
-----------------------------------------------------
I'm with you, if it get's to be anything below 60F,
it's not fit for human habitation IMHO.
-----------------------------------------------------
I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when
use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm
looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think
they might work, but which one?
----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.

Lew

On 1/5/2015 9:06 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.

Lew



That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167

On 1/5/15 8:58 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/5/2015 9:06 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.

Lew



That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167

Those things will have you sweating in no time flat, but they are very
noisy.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Lew Hodgett wrote:

----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.

Lew
----------------------------------------------------------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.
----------------------------------------------------------
Didn't see a BTU rating.

Unit is rated at 5000 watts, 26.1 A @ 240VAC.

A 2P-40A c'bkr and #8 AWG should handle the job.

Unit is sized for 525 sq ft.

A typical 2 car garage is about 20x20 or 400 sq ft.
-------------------------------------------------------------

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You also get to deal with the products of combustion in a closed
environment.

Lew

On 1/5/2015 7:58 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/5/2015 9:06 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.

Lew

That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167

Electricity is an expensive way to heat. Have you considered a heat pump?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...Ck%3Aheat+pump

Lew Hodgett wrote:
----------------------------------------------------
Don't know you're budget, but this unit would do a good job.

http://tinyurl.com/mqmcye5.

They indicate they are presently out of stock, but there are other
suppliers with the same device or other brands of similar size.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Ed Pawlowski wrote:

That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167
-------------------------------------------------------------
"Just Wondering" wrote:

Electricity is an expensive way to heat. Have you considered a heat
pump?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...Ck%3Aheat+pump
----------------------------------------------------------------
"Expensive" is relative.

We are talking about a shop area in a relatively moderate climate.

Assuming the above 5 KW heater operating at full load for 2 hours at
the start
of the day you will have consumed 10 KWH.

Assume $0.20/KWH power cost and you will have spent $2.00.

This probably represents a worst case situation since we are talking
about
the Bay Area of California.

Not Miami Beach but not Churchill, Canada either.

This does not appear to be a 10 hour/day, 5-1/2 day/wk operation,
but rather a hobbyist operation.

Costs are relative.



Lew

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's
disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when
use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm
looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think
they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to
be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

I am in Washington state and installed a 5000 watt Fahrenheat FUH54
electric heater last year and have been very happy with it:

http://www.watsondiy.com/heater.htm

It would be expensive to run full time, but I am only in the garage/shop a
few times a month so operational costs are minimal. It turns on with the
flick of a switch and I don't need to worry about carbon monoxide poisoning
from propane or natural gas.

When I built the garage back in 2001 I dreamed of having radiant floor
heat, but couldn't afford the installation cost at the time.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

MJ wrote:
Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's
disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when
use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm
looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think
they might work, but which one?

This comes up every year about this time of year. Quick answer - any method
you choose. None are any more or any less safe than another. It's all
about what what you can find most affordable in your area. It does not
matter what propane costs in some other area of the country, or what some
someone did 30 years agao - what will each alternative cost you today in
your area? Safe - they are all safe, so forget that consideration. You
will not subject your shop to any unsafe conditions with your planner or any
sawdust with any heating options. As for any 220v heaters - look on line.


--

-Mike-

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:54ab549c$0$32956
:

----------------------------------------------------------
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:

That puts out 17,000 BTU. but you need a hefty circuit for it.
----------------------------------------------------------
Didn't see a BTU rating.

Unit is rated at 5000 watts, 26.1 A @ 240VAC.

1kW is about 3400BTU, so the math seems correct.

I'll note that 26A is a fairly sizeable draw, so it would
be wise to consider what the service to the house is, and
what else will be part of the load. A house with 100A
service might not be able to handle an additional 26A.

John

On 1/5/2015 10:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------------

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You also get to deal with the products of combustion in a closed
environment.

Lew



That comes up all the time, but has never been a problem for me. I have
a detached garage with minimal insulation.

On 01/05/2015 6:48 PM, MJ wrote:
....

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that
when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire.
I'mlooking at some portable radiant heaters...

They won't work for the purpose as they don't raise the overall air
temperature but indirectly by re-radiation from objects which are in
direct line-of-sight and get heated.

For your described symptoms I don't think they'll help a lick.

I tried one in the shop area in the barn and while if you're standing
directly in front it'll toast your rear, you'll still be cold on the
frontside.

The worst problem with the shop and tools is that any metal dark-colored
object in the line of sight will get hot while everything else remains cold.

I think only a combustion or air-exchange system will prove to be
satisfactory for your case.

--

On Tue, 06 Jan 2015 12:00:14 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/5/2015 10:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------------

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You also get to deal with the products of combustion in a closed
environment.

Lew



That comes up all the time, but has never been a problem for me. I have
a detached garage with minimal insulation.
It's not the insulation that matters - it's how well it is sealed. No
problem in a drafty barn

wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2015 12:00:14 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/5/2015 10:21 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:

-------------------------------------------------------------

You can get almost 4X the heat at half the price with propane
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...5167_200485167
-----------------------------------------------------------------
You also get to deal with the products of combustion in a closed
environment.

Lew



That comes up all the time, but has never been a problem for me. I
have a detached garage with minimal insulation.

It's not the insulation that matters - it's how well it is sealed. No
problem in a drafty barn

I have often heard of the issue of water as a byproduct of combustion -
especially with propane, but I've never seen the effect of it in my garage.
My garage is very well insulated, wrapped in tyvec, and each coarse of log
slab "siding" is chinked. Pretty well sealed. I can get some frost on the
inside of my windows in the garage, but that happens whether I've got the
furnace turned on, or not, and only on the really bitter cold days. I'm in
Edwin's camp - I just haven't seen the issues with water that propane is
puported to produce.

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 05 Jan 2015 16:48:55 -0800, MJ wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease,
since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

With lows near 40, your best bet is a wall mounted heat pump. Here's the
one I bought:

http://www.h-mac.com/amana-ah123e35axaa.html

Only drawback is the price and you'd have to put in 220 if you don't have
it. But you'd get heating and cooling.

On 1/6/2015 1:06 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
I have often heard of the issue of water as a byproduct of combustion -
especially with propane, but I've never seen the effect of it in my garage.
My garage is very well insulated, wrapped in tyvec, and each coarse of log
slab "siding" is chinked. Pretty well sealed.

Water in the seal room should not be your main concern.

"Well Sealed" is a scary thought when it comes to propane or natural
gas. Regardless what the the Religion of Global Warming would like you
to believe, propane and natural gas produce Carbon Dioxide. The problem
is not that they will pollute the environment but that they can kill
you, especially in a "Well Sealed Room". While you may get away with
using propane or natural gas heater in this type of room for a couple of
hours, a long period of no air turn over will allow the Carbon Dioxide
to build to a toxic level. At that point you will no longer will be
worried about heating your garage.

When you burn one pound (453 grams) of propane you will get one pound
(453 grams) of Carbon Dioxide. 162g per m3 (35 ft3) and you are dead.

The following statistics are available many places on the web.

€¢In terms of worker safety, Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) has set a permissible exposure limit (PEL) for CO2
of 5,000 parts per million (ppm) (9,000 mg/m3) over an 8-hour work day,
which is equivalent to 0.5% by volume of air.

€¢A value of 40,000 ppm is considered immediately dangerous to life and
health. (NIOSH 1996; Tox. Review 2005).

€¢Additionally, acute toxicity data show the lethal concentration for CO2
is 90,000 ppm (9%) (162000 mg/m3) over 5 minutes (NIOSH 1996)

How much Carbon Dioxide comes from the breathing of all of the humans on
earth plus the billions of air breathing organism vs the Carbon Dioxide
from the relatively few industrial plants on earth

On 01/06/2015 12:25 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jan 2015 16:48:55 -0800, MJ wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I
can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease,
since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

With lows near 40, your best bet is a wall mounted heat pump. Here's the
one I bought:

http://www.h-mac.com/amana-ah123e35axaa.html

Only drawback is the price and you'd have to put in 220 if you don't have
it. But you'd get heating and cooling.

Very good point the moderate low temp range. My experience is for
very cold conditions and while all true enough, the extremes aren't
going to be nearly as bad for OP. But, still the radiant heaters don't
heat a general area so I think they're no what he's looking for given
his problem description.

--

Keith Nuttle writes:
On 1/6/2015 1:06 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


How much Carbon Dioxide comes from the breathing of all of the humans on
earth plus the billions of air breathing organism vs the Carbon Dioxide
from the relatively few industrial plants on earth


The CO2 derived from respiration (human or otherwise) is soi-disant
"Carbon Neutral". This means that the carbon is derived from
recent past (i.e. the carbon you breath out comes from carbon you
eat). This is a short cycle (respiration, incorporation into into plant-based
foods, refined, eaten, and respired again). This means that respiration,
regardless of the number of humans, is carbon-neutral. Likewise for cow
farts.

Adding fossilized carbon (oil, coal, methane) is a completely different
thing. These aren't using carbon that was derived from the atmosphere
in the most recent growing season, but rather releasing carbon into
the carbon cycle that had been sequestered for hundreds of millions of
years. Whether this is good, bad or doesn't matter is still being
determined, but it's hard to argue that it is changing the carbon cycle
which drives life as we know it.

In article , MJ
wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it doesn't
get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't work in my
shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go
to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use my
saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at some
portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work, but which
one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be the
best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed
Frozen fingers!

If you can create enough sawdust to catch fire, you won't be able to
breathe. Dust fires happen in grain elevators, but AFAIK there has
never been one documented in a woodworking shop.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

On 1/6/2015 2:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Keith Nuttle writes:
On 1/6/2015 1:06 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


How much Carbon Dioxide comes from the breathing of all of the humans on
earth plus the billions of air breathing organism vs the Carbon Dioxide
from the relatively few industrial plants on earth


The CO2 derived from respiration (human or otherwise) is soi-disant
"Carbon Neutral". This means that the carbon is derived from
recent past (i.e. the carbon you breath out comes from carbon you
eat). This is a short cycle (respiration, incorporation into into plant-based
foods, refined, eaten, and respired again). This means that respiration,
regardless of the number of humans, is carbon-neutral. Likewise for cow
farts.

Adding fossilized carbon (oil, coal, methane) is a completely different
thing. These aren't using carbon that was derived from the atmosphere
in the most recent growing season, but rather releasing carbon into
the carbon cycle that had been sequestered for hundreds of millions of
years. Whether this is good, bad or doesn't matter is still being
determined, but it's hard to argue that it is changing the carbon cycle
which drives life as we know it.


By your logic the Carbon Dioxide from forest fires and the results of
Volcano activity is carbon neutral because the government can not
control it.

Keith Nuttle writes:
On 1/6/2015 2:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Keith Nuttle writes:
On 1/6/2015 1:06 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


How much Carbon Dioxide comes from the breathing of all of the humans on
earth plus the billions of air breathing organism vs the Carbon Dioxide
from the relatively few industrial plants on earth


The CO2 derived from respiration (human or otherwise) is soi-disant
"Carbon Neutral". This means that the carbon is derived from
recent past (i.e. the carbon you breath out comes from carbon you
eat). This is a short cycle (respiration, incorporation into into plant-based
foods, refined, eaten, and respired again). This means that respiration,
regardless of the number of humans, is carbon-neutral. Likewise for cow
farts.

Adding fossilized carbon (oil, coal, methane) is a completely different
thing. These aren't using carbon that was derived from the atmosphere
in the most recent growing season, but rather releasing carbon into
the carbon cycle that had been sequestered for hundreds of millions of
years. Whether this is good, bad or doesn't matter is still being
determined, but it's hard to argue that it is changing the carbon cycle
which drives life as we know it.


By your logic the Carbon Dioxide from forest fires and the results of
Volcano activity is carbon neutral because the government can not
control it.

I don't recall mentioning either forest fires or volcanic activity.

Nor did I ever mention government in any way shape or form. One might
think your reading comprehension is somewhat flawed.

But, for your information, the former is carbon neutral (with respect
to an average 40 year cycle) and the latter releases sequestered
geologic carbon (primarily from sedimentary carbonates).

You've left out the vast majority of the carbon in the atm cycle which
is cyclically absorbed and released by the oceans on an annual basis.

For those interested: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_cycle

On 1/6/15 2:06 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article ,
MJ wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where
it doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to
cold, I can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have
Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below
50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that
when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch
fire. I'm looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v
and I think they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems
to be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed Frozen fingers!

If you can create enough sawdust to catch fire, you won't be able to
breathe. Dust fires happen in grain elevators, but AFAIK there has
never been one documented in a woodworking shop.


That kind of fire never entered my radar because of the reasons you
brought up.
The only fire I would worry about might occur from dust building up on
the heater, itself. After a long summer of woodworking and no heater
use, the dust that builds up on and in the heater from a lazy shopkeeper
who neglected to clean it out. Turn the heater on the first chilly day
to heat up the shop and the dust catches fire. I know I can smell it on
the top of my kerosene heater when I forget to blow the dust off. Maybe
it's just not hot enough to light it up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , -MIKE-
wrote:

That kind of fire never entered my radar because of the reasons you
brought up.
The only fire I would worry about might occur from dust building up on
the heater, itself. After a long summer of woodworking and no heater
use, the dust that builds up on and in the heater from a lazy shopkeeper
who neglected to clean it out. Turn the heater on the first chilly day
to heat up the shop and the dust catches fire. I know I can smell it on
the top of my kerosene heater when I forget to blow the dust off. Maybe
it's just not hot enough to light it up.

Ah, gotcha.

In your position, I'd probably look at a small propane furnace,
properly vented. Like something you'd find in an RV.

djb

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 1/6/2015 1:06 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
I have often heard of the issue of water as a byproduct of
combustion - especially with propane, but I've never seen the effect
of it in my garage. My garage is very well insulated, wrapped in
tyvec, and each coarse of log slab "siding" is chinked. Pretty well
sealed.

Water in the seal room should not be your main concern.

"Well Sealed" is a scary thought when it comes to propane or natural
gas. Regardless what the the Religion of Global Warming would like
you to believe, propane and natural gas produce Carbon Dioxide. The
problem is not that they will pollute the environment but that they
can kill you, especially in a "Well Sealed Room". While you may get
away with using propane or natural gas heater in this type of room
for a couple of hours, a long period of no air turn over will allow
the Carbon Dioxide to build to a toxic level. At that point you will
no longer will be worried about heating your garage.


I guess I wasn't clear. My heat in the garage is a propane furnace, not a
salamander or like device. Sorry for that misunderstanding.

--

-Mike-

I appreciate everyone's comments, and suggestions. I have medical
conditionss that result in major problems if I get to cold or to hot.
I have more than enough power (electric) to the house to run any
thing. My brother who was an electriction for major comercial
companies told me my house had more electrical service than many
companues he worked on. The problem I have is that we have added so
many circuits that the three large panels don't have room for another
circuit breaker. So after looking at all the articles here, I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done, but well with in considerations,
since I don't think any thing of spending over #1,000.00 on a gun or
new shop tool. Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.

On Mon, 5 Jan 2015 16:48:55 -0800 (PST), MJ
wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed
Frozen fingers!

In article , Night.Reader
wrote:

Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.

+1

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes

"MJ" wrote in message
...

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it
doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't
work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my
fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use
my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at
some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work,
but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be
the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?


MJ, I put an electric wall heater in the wall of my own car-and-a-half
garage shop, and it's done a great job for me up here in Port Townsend,
Washington. It's a Pic-A-Watt 240V/4500W wall-mount heater, and it cost me
about $260 three or four years ago. Here's a link to King's fan-driver
heater page: http://www.king-electric.com/products/fan-heater.html. The LPW
model is the one I bought.

Tom

On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:

I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done,

Should keep you plenty warm.


Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.

Very considerate of you. I plan to do the same. We are sitting here
trying to decide which restaurant to go to for either a late lunch or
early dinner. Just one of those things we like to do at least once a
week. Biggest deicision will be white or red wine.

On 01/06/2015 10:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:
I appreciate everyone's comments, and suggestions. I have medical
conditionss that result in major problems if I get to cold or to hot.
I have more than enough power (electric) to the house to run any
thing. My brother who was an electriction for major comercial
companies told me my house had more electrical service than many
companues he worked on. The problem I have is that we have added so
many circuits that the three large panels don't have room for another
circuit breaker. So after looking at all the articles here, I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done, but well with in considerations,
since I don't think any thing of spending over #1,000.00 on a gun or
new shop tool. Besides, I am in my late 70's& I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.
....

If you haven't already committed, and since $$ itself really doesn't
seem to be the issue, I'd suggest rethinking the electrical and consider
adding a subpanel feed in place of one location now.

I say this for two reasons...

a) The fumes from the propane heaters unless it is externally vented,
and primarily

b) That you mention you have "issues" with either extreme, not just
cold. The heat pump solution would solve both and I can imagine the
issue is only going to get more difficult to deal with with time, not
better.

Just $0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ..., of course.

And as for the $$, if they're fighting types, they'll just fight over
the tools instead...

--

On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 11:20:31 -0600, dpb wrote:

b) That you mention you have "issues" with either extreme, not just
cold.
The heat pump solution would solve both and I can imagine the issue is
only going to get more difficult to deal with with time, not better.

That was my reaction as well.

I had a full panel in the house and needed to add a sub-panel in the
garage. The electrician took out some full height breakers and put half
height ones in their place. Gave the needed space.

On 01/07/2015 11:48 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
....

I had a full panel in the house and needed to add a sub-panel in the
garage. The electrician took out some full height breakers and put half
height ones in their place. Gave the needed space.

Was what I was thinking altho I see I didn't mention the "how" w/o it
being too much hassle to fit another into the box (presuming he's not at
actual listed limitation for the panel).

Like the added benefit of the cool cycle, since obviously enjoys the
shop there's bound to be other uses for the additional capacity down the
road if it's there...

--

On 1/7/2015 10:10 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:

I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done,

Should keep you plenty warm.


Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.

Very considerate of you. I plan to do the same.


Jackie Chan's Son Will Get None Of His $130 Million Fortune

Jackie stated that he was originally intending to donate half of his
wealth to charity and leaving his family the other half but recently
changed his will to leave 100% for charitable causes throughout the
world. The elder Chan explained: "If he is capable, he can make his own
money. If he is not, then he will just be wasting my money."

http://www.celebritynetworth.com/art...llion-fortune/

Just Wondering wrote:
On 1/7/2015 10:10 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:

I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done,

Should keep you plenty warm.

I used a $15 snow shovel yesterday that will make you just as warm.

On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 12:10:16 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:

I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done,

Should keep you plenty warm.


Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.

Very considerate of you. I plan to do the same. We are sitting here
trying to decide which restaurant to go to for either a late lunch or
early dinner. Just one of those things we like to do at least once a
week. Biggest deicision will be white or red wine.

We normally go out to lunch or diner at least twice a week but I've
been out of work for six weeks (heart surgery 2 days before
Thanksgiving). I go back to work Monday. For the last three or four
weeks we've gone out ~5-6X a week. During the day we go out to a mall,
HD, or Lowes (or all three) and walk (a good dose of bronchitis hurt
the plans some). After, it's time to get something to eat. ;-) No
alcohol, though.

On 1/7/2015 4:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Just Wondering wrote:
On 1/7/2015 10:10 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:

I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done,

Should keep you plenty warm.

I used a $15 snow shovel yesterday that will make you just as warm.

And the world was pretty and white while you were keeping warm. In the
Carolina all we get is depression cold gray days.

On 1/7/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:


We normally go out to lunch or diner at least twice a week but I've
been out of work for six weeks (heart surgery 2 days before
Thanksgiving). I go back to work Monday.


Glad to hear you are recovering. My wife will be going for heart
surgery in about 6 weeks. I hope she does as well.

On 1/6/2015 11:12 PM, Night.Reader wrote:
I appreciate everyone's comments, and suggestions. I have medical
conditionss that result in major problems if I get to cold or to hot.
I have more than enough power (electric) to the house to run any
thing. My brother who was an electriction for major comercial
companies told me my house had more electrical service than many
companues he worked on. The problem I have is that we have added so
many circuits that the three large panels don't have room for another
Holy CRAP!
circuit breaker. So after looking at all the articles here, I am
purchasing a 170,000 propane heater and a #100 propane tank. Cost will
be about $500.00 when I get done, but well with in considerations,
since I don't think any thing of spending over #1,000.00 on a gun or
new shop tool. Besides, I am in my late 70's & I don't want to leave
any money for my 7 children to fight over. So I will spend it on my
shop and tools which I love.
+1

On Mon, 5 Jan 2015 16:48:55 -0800 (PST), MJ
wrote:

Ok, while I know I am lucky to be in an area of the country where it doesn't get much below 40, but due to my extreme reaction to cold, I can't work in my shop unless it's over 65. I may have Raynaud's disease, since my fingers go to blocks of ice at below 50.

I am looking for a good, safe heater for the shop. Safe, in that when use my saw or planner, any sawdust in the air won't catch fire. I'm looking at some portable radiant heaters that use 220v and I think they might work, but which one?

The ultimate is to get a permanent propane heater (Red Dawg, seems to be the best), but it will cost too much right now.

Any suggestions for a good heater?

Signed
Frozen fingers!


--
Jeff

On Wed, 07 Jan 2015 21:13:44 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/7/2015 5:45 PM, wrote:


We normally go out to lunch or diner at least twice a week but I've
been out of work for six weeks (heart surgery 2 days before
Thanksgiving). I go back to work Monday.


Glad to hear you are recovering. My wife will be going for heart
surgery in about 6 weeks. I hope she does as well.

Thank you. Surprisingly, it would have been a walk in the park had I
not had the run-in with bronchitis. I had to stay in the hospital 9
days (3 in CCICU) because of some other work while they were in there
but even that (that I was awake for) was easy enough. Tell her that
we're wishing her well and that, at least in one case, it was far
easier than expected.