Hi all

I am about to finish this:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it possible to set the shelfes as I need.

3. I could use wooden carriers, but I guess that will someone limit the heights in the future.

I'd go for 2 or 3, but please tell me your thoughts on this

WBR
Sonnich

Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I tried
to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where the door can
be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the style to
use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay flush.
I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like them. It's just a
preference thing - I don't realy care as much for the look of all of the
holes when you just use the pegs - but like I say, it's just a preference
thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after allowing for
all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can probably count on one
hand the number of times I've changed them once they were put in place the
first time. Maybe all of that flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.

--

-Mike-

On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I tried
to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where the door can
be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the style to
use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay flush.
I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like them. It's just a
preference thing - I don't realy care as much for the look of all of the
holes when you just use the pegs - but like I say, it's just a preference
thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after allowing for
all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can probably count on one
hand the number of times I've changed them once they were put in place the
first time. Maybe all of that flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.

But like you said, it's a preference...

On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay
flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like
them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as much
for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs - but
like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig
and you're done before you've set up the router.

Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just enough
to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"
position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"
intervals should b enough.

Don't get me wrong - that's still a *lot* of holes. But Mike is right, a
jig makes it a lot easier.

--
This msg is for rec.woodworking - not homeowners hub.

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.





Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig

and you're done before you've set up the router.



Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"

intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11 series of holes (44 holes)
Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really move the shelves...

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 1:41:21 PM UTC+2, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:

Hi all



I am about to finish this:

http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg



NIce work.

Thanks.

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 00:36:42 -0800 (PST), Sonnich Jensen
I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11 series of holes (44 holes)
Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really move the shelves...

For the entertainment centre I built, I drilled holes every inch
within three inches of the top and bottom. My components are varying
heights and I occasionally add, remove and rearrange those components.
It gives the most flexibility. Easier to do it all now instead of
finding out down the road that you need a configuration you haven't
drilled for.

Sonnich Jensen wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.
Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig
and you're done before you've set up the router.


Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"

intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11 series of holes (44 holes)
Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really move the shelves...

I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom cabinets in
my home.
Now that the cabinet is built, how are you going to drill accurate holes
for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?
I'd really like to know for future reference.



--
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeros after @

On 1/24/14, 10:20 AM, willshak wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.
Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig
and you're done before you've set up the router.


Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just
enough
to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"
position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"
intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the
upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11
series of holes (44 holes)
Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really
move the shelves...

I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom cabinets in
my home.
Now that the cabinet is built, how are you going to drill accurate holes
for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?
I'd really like to know for future reference.


Google "shelf pin jig" and take your pick or make your own. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay
flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like
them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as much
for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs - but
like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.

Ummmmm... I didn't Mike - I said - it's a preference. I do believe I can
set my router up to route that channel faster than I could execute drilling
all those holes even with a good jig, but for me it's all about the
preference of how it looks.

--

-Mike-

On 1/24/14, 11:14 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay
flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like
them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as much
for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs - but
like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.

Ummmmm... I didn't Mike - I said - it's a preference. I do believe I can
set my router up to route that channel faster than I could execute drilling
all those holes even with a good jig, but for me it's all about the
preference of how it looks.


I wasn't talking to you! :-p
I was relying to Richard who replied to you.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 11:14 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they
lay flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally
like them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as
much for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs
- but like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up
the router.


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.

Ummmmm... I didn't Mike - I said - it's a preference. I do believe
I can set my router up to route that channel faster than I could
execute drilling all those holes even with a good jig, but for me
it's all about the preference of how it looks.


I wasn't talking to you! :-p
I was relying to Richard who replied to you.

So you were! Sorry - got lost there.

--

-Mike-

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 11:20:18 -0500, willshak
wrote:

Sonnich Jensen wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.
Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig
and you're done before you've set up the router.


Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"

intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11 series of holes (44 holes)
Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really move the shelves...

I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom cabinets in
my home.
Now that the cabinet is built, how are you going to drill accurate holes
for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?
I'd really like to know for future reference.

Bill if you have a router and a 1/4" bit it can be done but it is
easier to drill them before assembly.

Mark

On 1/24/14, 1:11 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 11:14 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they
lay flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally
like them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as
much for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs
- but like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up
the router.


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.

Ummmmm... I didn't Mike - I said - it's a preference. I do believe
I can set my router up to route that channel faster than I could
execute drilling all those holes even with a good jig, but for me
it's all about the preference of how it looks.


I wasn't talking to you! :-p
I was relying to Richard who replied to you.

So you were! Sorry - got lost there.


Typical lead player... getting lost all the time. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/23/2014 2:46 AM, Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it possible to set the shelfes as I need.

3. I could use wooden carriers, but I guess that will someone limit the heights in the future.

I'd go for 2 or 3, but please tell me your thoughts on this

WBR
Sonnich


I always seem to wind up using the drilled holes and pins but that is
probably because I invested in the 32mm system jigs a long time ago and
don't like to let anything go to waste. I'm afraid that you will be in for
more work than necessary though since, with the cabinet assembled, drilling
for routing or whatever you decide to do will be decidedly more difficult
for lack of access. Typically the metal standards demand that you route a
slot the full length of the inside vertical members and now you can't
really get in to do that. Drilling is still possible although some jigs
want full access to the sides too. So, a homemade jig or one of the plastic
hand-held jobs might be the easiest way forward. Or maybe a fallback to the
decidedly old-school sawtooth/batten supports?

On 1/24/14, 1:23 PM, Markem wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 11:20:18 -0500, willshak
wrote:

Sonnich Jensen wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard
wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.
Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin
drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.


Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location.
Just enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its
"normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at
12"

intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting
the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill
= 11 series of holes (44 holes) Then again I agree that once in
place I will probably never really move the shelves...

I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom
cabinets in my home. Now that the cabinet is built, how are you
going to drill accurate holes for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?
I'd really like to know for future reference.

Bill if you have a router and a 1/4" bit it can be done but it is
easier to drill them before assembly.

Mark


I'm not trying to be argumentative, here. I know people are looking for
ideas and advice on the subject, that is all I'm interested in giving.

I've done several built-ins, medicine cabinets, and other projects that
use shelf pins. I've tried doing it before during and after. I came to
the conclusion that the simplest, fastest, and least prone to error way
to do it was to use a drilling jig and proprietary plunge drill bit to
drill them not only after assembly, but after finishing.

You end up putting them only where you want them which make for fewer
holes, and you don't have to clean them out after finishing. The finish
on the wood actually makes for cleaner holes, too.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:


Typical lead player... getting lost all the time. :-p

We are being creative when that happens...

--

-Mike-

On 1/24/14, 2:08 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


Typical lead player... getting lost all the time. :-p

We are being creative when that happens...


That's what I usually say. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 14:05:06 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm not trying to be argumentative, here. I know people are looking for
ideas and advice on the subject, that is all I'm interested in giving.

I've done several built-ins, medicine cabinets, and other projects that
use shelf pins. I've tried doing it before during and after. I came to
the conclusion that the simplest, fastest, and least prone to error way
to do it was to use a drilling jig and proprietary plunge drill bit to
drill them not only after assembly, but after finishing.

You end up putting them only where you want them which make for fewer
holes, and you don't have to clean them out after finishing. The finish
on the wood actually makes for cleaner holes, too.

That makes sense, I just do not like putting my head in a small
enclosed space like a bath cabinet with the router. F4's stole some of
my hearing so I minimize my exposure.

On a bookcase probably would follow your method though.

Mark

"Sonnich Jensen" wrote in message

Hi all

I am about to finish this:
http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes
in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to
pick. I tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are
the type where the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not
the style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would
make it possible to set the shelfes as I need.

3. I could use wooden carriers, but I guess that will
someone limit the heights in the future.

I'd go for 2 or 3, but please tell me your thoughts on
this

My thoughts are metal. Specifically, Knape & Voight shelf pins, model #345
or 346. Like these...
http://www.wurthwoodgroup.com/KV-345...ts-P38050.aspx

They are inexpensive and strong, don't show when a shelf is on them but if
you should go for them, don't buy them at the link above, way too expensive.
They used to be (20+ years ago) $0.05 or .06 each. Today, certainly under
$.15 each.

Holes for them can be drilled but if you have a lot it is easier and faster
to use a plunge router with an appropriately sized template bushing to fit a
purchased or self made jig.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 1/24/14, 2:41 PM, Markem wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 14:05:06 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

I'm not trying to be argumentative, here. I know people are looking for
ideas and advice on the subject, that is all I'm interested in giving.

I've done several built-ins, medicine cabinets, and other projects that
use shelf pins. I've tried doing it before during and after. I came to
the conclusion that the simplest, fastest, and least prone to error way
to do it was to use a drilling jig and proprietary plunge drill bit to
drill them not only after assembly, but after finishing.

You end up putting them only where you want them which make for fewer
holes, and you don't have to clean them out after finishing. The finish
on the wood actually makes for cleaner holes, too.

That makes sense, I just do not like putting my head in a small
enclosed space like a bath cabinet with the router. F4's stole some of
my hearing so I minimize my exposure.

On a bookcase probably would follow your method though.

Mark


If I didn't make it clear, I'm talking about a drill bit and drill guide.
A router is overkill, cumbersome, and completely unnecessary.

Google "shelf pin guide."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:01:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

If I didn't make it clear, I'm talking about a drill bit and drill guide.
A router is overkill, cumbersome, and completely unnecessary.

Google "shelf pin guide."

Thanks Mike I have seen them, but I have a jig made for router with a
collar that works for me.

Mark

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 14:05:06 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:

I came to
the conclusion that the simplest, fastest, and least prone to error way
to do it was to use a drilling jig and proprietary plunge drill bit to
drill them not only after assembly, but after finishing.

You end up putting them only where you want them which make for fewer
holes, and you don't have to clean them out after finishing. The finish
on the wood actually makes for cleaner holes, too.

I find it easier before assembly, but I definitely agree with drilling
after finishing. My favorite finish is shellac with maybe a little dye
in it and I pad it on. I did it after drilling once and only once!

Finishing before assembly is a lot easier as well unless a spray gun is
used, but I don't have or want one.

--
This msg is for rec.woodworking - not homeowners hub.

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:26:58 -0600, Markem
Thanks Mike I have seen them, but I have a jig made for router with a
collar that works for me.

Depending on the size of the base on that router, it could interfere
in some tight spots.

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 01:48:08 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:26:58 -0600, Markem
Thanks Mike I have seen them, but I have a jig made for router with a
collar that works for me.

Depending on the size of the base on that router, it could interfere
in some tight spots.

Which is why it is easier in my mind to make the pin holes before
assembly.

Mark

On 1/25/14, 9:01 AM, Markem wrote:
On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 01:48:08 -0500, wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 15:26:58 -0600, Markem
Thanks Mike I have seen them, but I have a jig made for router with a
collar that works for me.

Depending on the size of the base on that router, it could interfere
in some tight spots.

Which is why it is easier in my mind to make the pin holes before
assembly.

Mark


Let's not get a circular argument going, here.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Friday, January 24, 2014 6:45:39 PM UTC+2, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/24/14, 10:20 AM, willshak wrote:

Sonnich Jensen wrote:

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard wrote:

On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:







Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.

Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin drilling jig

and you're done before you've set up the router.





Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location. Just

enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its "normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at 12"

intervals should b enough.



I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting the

upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill = 11

series of holes (44 holes)

Then again I agree that once in place I will probably never really

move the shelves...



I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom cabinets in

my home.

Now that the cabinet is built, how are you going to drill accurate holes

for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?

I'd really like to know for future reference.





Google "shelf pin jig" and take your pick or make your own. :-)





--



-MIKE-



"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)

--

http://mikedrums.com

mike@mikedrum

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


I did it this way:
hot.ee/sonnich/4_Photo1719.jpg

A ruler, fixed, and marked 20-80cm by every 5 cm.

On 1/23/2014 11:09 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/23/14, 7:14 AM, Richard wrote:
On 1/23/2014 5:41 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Sonnich Jensen wrote:
Hi all

I am about to finish this: http://hot.ee/sonnich/Photo1659.jpg

NIce work.


Now, the cupboards on the sides do not yet have shelfes in them.
Basically I have 3 options, and I am not sure which to pick. I
tried to keep it in an old style, my hinges are the type where
the door can be lifted off.

1. I could use those plastic corners, but plastic is not the
style to use here

2. I could use those round (Ø5mm) carriers, which would make it
possible to set the shelfes as I need.

This would be my choice - or shelf standards, routed in so they lay
flush. I have used them a lot for shelves and I personally like
them. It's just a preference thing - I don't realy care as much
for the look of all of the holes when you just use the pegs - but
like I say, it's just a preference thing.

Here's a different thought though... I have found that after
allowing for all of this flexibility in shelf locations... I can
probably count on one hand the number of times I've changed them
once they were put in place the first time. Maybe all of that
flexibility isn't as worthwhile in the end.



Routing a slot is quick and easy.

Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.


Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot.
Use a shelf pin drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.

I agree, and I'm no expert woodworker. Of all the jigs and other things
I had to make when I made my kitchen (or other shelves), drilling the
peg holes wasn't any trouble or any time. The bigger question was size,
and nickel or brass.

If you don't like all the holes, just drill the ones you like.

Jeff


But like you said, it's a preference...

That's exactly what it is, but don't pretend drilling the holes is
difficult.