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-MIKE- -MIKE- is offline
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Default Shelf carriers (metal, plastic or wooden?)

On 1/24/14, 1:23 PM, Markem wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 11:20:18 -0500, willshak
wrote:

Sonnich Jensen wrote:
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:45 PM UTC+2, Larry Blanchard
wrote:
On Thu, 23 Jan 2014 10:09:12 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:



Drilling eleven-zillion holes isn't.
Sure it is. Easier than routing a slot. Use a shelf pin
drilling jig and you're done before you've set up the
router.


Plus which, holes are not needed in every possible location.
Just enough

to allow a shelf to move a few inches up and down from its
"normal"

position. Five or 6 hole on 2" spacing for shelves spaced at
12"

intervals should b enough.

I was thinking of this. 2" _is_ 5cm, and I was thinking letting
the upper and lower 20 cm be free, which gives me 50cm to drill
= 11 series of holes (44 holes) Then again I agree that once in
place I will probably never really move the shelves...


I am not a master carpenter but I have built custom bathroom
cabinets in my home. Now that the cabinet is built, how are you
going to drill accurate holes for shelf pegs inside the cabinet?
I'd really like to know for future reference.


Bill if you have a router and a 1/4" bit it can be done but it is
easier to drill them before assembly.

Mark


I'm not trying to be argumentative, here. I know people are looking for
ideas and advice on the subject, that is all I'm interested in giving.

I've done several built-ins, medicine cabinets, and other projects that
use shelf pins. I've tried doing it before during and after. I came to
the conclusion that the simplest, fastest, and least prone to error way
to do it was to use a drilling jig and proprietary plunge drill bit to
drill them not only after assembly, but after finishing.

You end up putting them only where you want them which make for fewer
holes, and you don't have to clean them out after finishing. The finish
on the wood actually makes for cleaner holes, too.


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-MIKE-

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