While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715

.... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way other
than copying and pasting.

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets" at
each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something I've
never tried.

I'm thinking of using this BeadLock jig,

http://www.rockler.com/3-8-beadlock-basic-starter-kit

.... but not in the usual way. (the usual way being to drill 5 holes that
mate with their proprietary tenon stock). I would just drill two
adjacent holes and use dowels. Like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7639547178715/

Assuming no one has any objections (ha), how would you glue something
like that? I only ask because it should not be under any stress at all.
Would you: Not use glue at all? Only put glue on the dowels? Or make
sure all the mating surfaces have glue?

Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?
I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but these
would show.

That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3 and
a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not out
of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

I will remind you that I don't have a table saw, and that my skills are,
um, "developing".

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Greg Guarino writes:
While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715

... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way other
than copying and pasting.

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets" at
each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something I've
never tried.

An alternative is to plow a groove[*] down the length of the top and bottom
rails, where the groove is the same width as the verticals, if the verticals
are thinner than the rails (which would help reduce the final weight of the
end table). I'd use 3/8" verticals with 3/4" rails. Pin or glue the rails
in place once spaced appropriately.

The downside is that dust and other crap will collect in the open groove
on the bottom rail, but you can fill that with 3/8" filler stock and level
to the rail.
[*] With a router, since you don't have a ts.

On 1/15/2014 2:23 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715

... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way other
than copying and pasting.

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets" at
each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something I've
never tried.

I'm thinking of using this BeadLock jig,

http://www.rockler.com/3-8-beadlock-basic-starter-kit

... but not in the usual way. (the usual way being to drill 5 holes that
mate with their proprietary tenon stock). I would just drill two
adjacent holes and use dowels. Like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7639547178715/


Ok, first off, did you see the detailed answers that were given to your
earlier Sketchup questions that you posted about a week ago? Did they
help? Did you appreciate the responses? ;~) Want more questions answered?





Assuming no one has any objections (ha), how would you glue something
like that? I only ask because it should not be under any stress at all.
Would you: Not use glue at all? Only put glue on the dowels? Or make
sure all the mating surfaces have glue?

Reading Scott's response, and to clarify, you have no table saw, is that
correct? Assuming so,

Using more than one dowel on the end of each post requires the placement
to be dead nuts on or you risk splitting the ends of the stiles.
Probably the easiest method would be to use one dowel instead of two on
each end and glue. BUT to keep the post from rotating drill a hole in
the bottom of the bottom rail under each post and run a screw up inside
and into the bottom of each post.





Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?
I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but these
would show.

Biscuits, still Dominoe's would be the easiest. With Dominoe's you can
elongate one of the mortises to help with alignment should your cuts not
be dead on.



That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3 and
a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not out
of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

I would cut a rabbet along the mating surface of the 1x3 to hlep with
alignment and just glue it.

that is what I did here to join the front and back face frames to the
side panels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/11888682455/

If you look closely you cansee how that came together here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...0753/lightbox/





I will remind you that I don't have a table saw, and that my skills are,
um, "developing".


None of my suggestions require a TS.




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No table saw makes dowels pretty much your best bet. not sure what other equipment you have.

Pickets
Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?

Note necessarily better but different and maybe easier.
- Use one dowel at the top end of each picket
- Use two screws through pre-drilled holes from the under side of the bottom rail


but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

Fricking Google posted before finished
No table saw makes dowels pretty much your best bet. not sure what other equipment you have.


Pickets

Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?

Not necessarily better but different and maybe easier.

- Use one dowel at the top end of each picket

- Use two screws through pre-drilled holes from the under side of the bottom rail

- Assembly hint, lay the side structure on a table and use spacers between the pickets to keep them equal and square, clamp up then drive the screws.


Legs
but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

Dowel at each end wouldn't hurt but could just glue them, no dowel or biscuit needed. Should be very easy to align as needed and if clamped well modern glue is all you need for that long butt joint. If you had a table saw you could do a kerf with a spline but alas.

On 1/15/2014 2:23 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715

... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way other
than copying and pasting.

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets" at
each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something I've
never tried.

I'm thinking of using this BeadLock jig,

http://www.rockler.com/3-8-beadlock-basic-starter-kit

... but not in the usual way. (the usual way being to drill 5 holes that
mate with their proprietary tenon stock). I would just drill two
adjacent holes and use dowels. Like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7639547178715/


Assuming no one has any objections (ha), how would you glue something
like that? I only ask because it should not be under any stress at all.
Would you: Not use glue at all? Only put glue on the dowels? Or make
sure all the mating surfaces have glue?

It's OK to let slats/spindles float, without glue. However, with chairs
I use loose tenon joinery and glue just the mortises and tenons, after
pre-finishing:

https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...473?banner=pwa

A lot can be gleaned from studying these photos. If you have any
questions, just ask.

Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?
I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but these
would show.

All you need is a plunge router for loose tenons. Since you don't have a
table saw to make the loose tenons, make them 1/4" thick and buy project
board for a BORG.

That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3 and
a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not out
of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

I will remind you that I don't have a table saw, and that my skills are,
um, "developing".

Use loose tenon joinery, with a router jig like this:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#MortJig1

I built the _prototype_ for this chair using just a plunge router for
the loose tenon joinery:

http://e-woodshop.net/Projects10.htm

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/15/2014 7:06 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/15/2014 2:23 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715


... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way other
than copying and pasting.

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets" at
each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something I've
never tried.

I'm thinking of using this BeadLock jig,

http://www.rockler.com/3-8-beadlock-basic-starter-kit

... but not in the usual way. (the usual way being to drill 5 holes that
mate with their proprietary tenon stock). I would just drill two
adjacent holes and use dowels. Like this:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7639547178715/



Ok, first off, did you see the detailed answers that were given to your
earlier Sketchup questions that you posted about a week ago? Did they
help? Did you appreciate the responses? ;~) Want more questions
answered?


In fact, some of those responses have already come in handy. I think I
grasp the "component" process better than I did before, for one thing.
Sorry for the lack of a reply.



Assuming no one has any objections (ha), how would you glue something
like that? I only ask because it should not be under any stress at all.
Would you: Not use glue at all? Only put glue on the dowels? Or make
sure all the mating surfaces have glue?

Reading Scott's response, and to clarify, you have no table saw, is that
correct? Assuming so,

Using more than one dowel on the end of each post requires the placement
to be dead nuts on or you risk splitting the ends of the stiles.

To clarify, I risk splitting while I'm drilling the holes? Or when I try
to "force" the piece into alignment with misaligned holes? I'll assume
the latter. I was thinking about the alignment myself. I thought maybe
I'd give it a dry run with the "Beadlock" jig to see if I could get it
accurate enough.

Probably the easiest method would be to use one dowel instead of two on
each end and glue. BUT to keep the post from rotating drill a hole in
the bottom of the bottom rail under each post and run a screw up inside
and into the bottom of each post.

Clever. I could recess the screw in the bottom rail and it would never
be seen. And I'd have half as many (precision) holes to drill.


Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?
I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but these
would show.

Biscuits,

I was considering buying a biscuit joiner to attach the "leg" pieces
together. I have no experience with biscuits, but from what I've seen on
TV (you can all snicker now), it doesn't look like you could fit a
biscuit into the end of a 1x2. Can you?

still Dominoe's would be the easiest. With Dominoe's you can
elongate one of the mortises to help with alignment should your cuts not
be dead on.

Looks like a great system, but a little pricey for an occasional dabbler
like myself.


That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3 and
a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not out
of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

I would cut a rabbet along the mating surface of the 1x3 to hlep with
alignment and just glue it.

that is what I did here to join the front and back face frames to the
side panels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/11888682455/

If you look closely you cansee how that came together here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...0753/lightbox/


Interesting. That would slim down the (visible) edge of the 2x3, but it
is a technique that is within my skill set. I may draw it out that way
and see what I think of it. Thanks.

I will remind you that I don't have a table saw, and that my skills are,
um, "developing".


None of my suggestions require a TS.

Thanks.

On 1/15/2014 7:36 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Note necessarily better but different and maybe easier.
- Use one dowel at the top end of each picket
- Use two screws through pre-drilled holes from the under side of
the bottom rail

I hadn't thought about the fact that the bottom won't be seen. I may go
with some variation on this idea. Thanks.

On 1/15/2014 7:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
Use loose tenon joinery, with a router jig like this:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#MortJig1


So far, I haven't got a plunge router. But I think I can see one from
here.

I'm curious about that jig (partly because it looks simple enough for me
to make). It looks as if it uses the bottom plate/body of the router
running along the stops in the jig for alignment. Is that preferable in
some way to a jig with a bearing-guided bit or a guide ring? Or can you
even use such things with a plunge router? (feel free to take a deep
breath if the ignorance gets too thick in here)

In addition, it looks as if the width of the mortise is not simply the
diameter of the bit; the router follows one fence, then moves over a tad
to follow the other fence in the opposite direction. Is that correct?
You shim the fences and stops to control the length and thickness?

Lastly, "project board" means the thin hardwood slats they sell at HD?
Presumably I'd need to rout the tenon stock to round the edges,
preferably to the same radius as the router bit that made the mortises?

On 1/15/2014 7:51 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:



To clarify, I risk splitting while I'm drilling the holes? Or when I try
to "force" the piece into alignment with misaligned holes? I'll assume
the latter. I was thinking about the alignment myself. I thought maybe
I'd give it a dry run with the "Beadlock" jig to see if I could get it
accurate enough.

Yes, when pressing the parts together. Also be certain that the holes
in the top and bottom rails are directly above/below one another or your
pickets will not stand plumb.





Probably the easiest method would be to use one dowel instead of two on
each end and glue. BUT to keep the post from rotating drill a hole in
the bottom of the bottom rail under each post and run a screw up inside
and into the bottom of each post.

Clever. I could recess the screw in the bottom rail and it would never
be seen. And I'd have half as many (precision) holes to drill.

Exactly





Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too "advanced"?
I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but these
would show.

Biscuits,

I was considering buying a biscuit joiner to attach the "leg" pieces
together. I have no experience with biscuits, but from what I've seen on
TV (you can all snicker now), it doesn't look like you could fit a
biscuit into the end of a 1x2. Can you?

Yes, if you buy the PC557 with the FF blade and use FF biscuits. Those
are pretty small.





still Dominoe's would be the easiest. With Dominoe's you can
elongate one of the mortises to help with alignment should your cuts not
be dead on.

Looks like a great system, but a little pricey for an occasional dabbler
like myself.

That is true.



That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3 and
a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not
out
of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

I would cut a rabbet along the mating surface of the 1x3 to hlep with
alignment and just glue it.

that is what I did here to join the front and back face frames to the
side panels.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/11888682455/

If you look closely you cansee how that came together here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...0753/lightbox/


Interesting. That would slim down the (visible) edge of the 2x3, but it
is a technique that is within my skill set. I may draw it out that way
and see what I think of it. Thanks.

You can make the rabbet relative shallow, 1/8" and you porbably would
only be able to tell by measuring. All you need is that shallow ledge
to keep the mating 1x2 piece from sliding across the face of the 1x3.






I will remind you that I don't have a table saw, and that my skills
are,
um, "developing".


None of my suggestions require a TS.

Thanks.

"Greg Guarino" wrote:

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715
-----------------------------------------
A router with both a fixed and a plunge base, a home built mortising
jig for the PB router and you're in business.

How you get a bunch of duplicate slats without a table saw is another
issue.

Lew

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
Use loose tenon joinery, with a router jig like this:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#MortJig1


So far, I haven't got a plunge router. But I think I can see one from
here.

I've seen the 2 1/4 h.p. Dewalt DW618 "kit", IIRC (with fixed and
plunge base) for well under $200 recently, maybe $159.
But that may have something to do with the holidays. I noticed since I
paid more than $200 a couple of years ago...lol.

On 1/15/2014 9:37 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
How you get a bunch of duplicate slats without a table saw is another
issue.

That shouldn't be a problem. I jury-rigged this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7637538534446/

.... to trim the shelves on my latest project to exact length, because this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...7637538534446/

....wasn't long enough to affix a stop to.

I figure to make a longer zero-clearance "table" the same way I made the
first one. I have one or two (hopefully simpler) projects in mind first,
but if I build the end tables this way I'll need to make a lot of
duplicated slats.

On 1/15/2014 8:09 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
Use loose tenon joinery, with a router jig like this:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#MortJig1


So far, I haven't got a plunge router. But I think I can see one from
here.

I'm curious about that jig (partly because it looks simple enough for me
to make). It looks as if it uses the bottom plate/body of the router
running along the stops in the jig for alignment. Is that preferable in
some way to a jig with a bearing-guided bit or a guide ring? Or can you
even use such things with a plunge router? (feel free to take a deep
breath if the ignorance gets too thick in here)

In addition, it looks as if the width of the mortise is not simply the
diameter of the bit; the router follows one fence, then moves over a tad
to follow the other fence in the opposite direction. Is that correct?
You shim the fences and stops to control the length and thickness?

Check your incoming ...


Lastly, "project board" means the thin hardwood slats they sell at HD?
Presumably I'd need to rout the tenon stock to round the edges,
preferably to the same radius as the router bit that made the mortises?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...785/100031137#

I can round over the edges of 1/4" tenon stock almost as fast with a
file/rasp as I can setting up a round over bit on the router table, so
don't tailed tools stop you.

Note: 1/4" thick loose tenons fulfill the classic requirement for tenons
being 1/3rd the thickness of 3/4" thick stock.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Greg Guarino wrote:
While I'm still a novice at Sketchup, I fear I have gotten good enough
with it to design things that outstrip my woodworking skills (or my
available woodworking *time*. I've been committing ideas to "paper",
figuratively speaking; enough to take a year for me to translate into
actual wood-and-glue reality.

I'm curious if any of you do something like this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...57639547178715

... when you're designing a piece, and if there's any simpler way
other than copying and pasting.

Yes I do it as and yes there is a simpler way. As I explained recently, you
can use "Move" modified with control to make and move as many duplicates as
you desire. You can set the spacing too.
________________

This would be an end table, which is still deep in the "musing" stage,
but I like the general idea. With my tool complement and skill set, I
see a couple of issues. The first is how to fasten the 1x2 "pickets"
at each end to the rails above and below. (together, they make a roman
numeral "III"). I don't have a Domino, and I question whether I would
live long enough to cut mortises and tenons for each one, something
I've never tried.

I'm thinking of using this BeadLock jig,

http://www.rockler.com/3-8-beadlock-basic-starter-kit

... but not in the usual way. (the usual way being to drill 5 holes
that mate with their proprietary tenon stock). I would just drill two
adjacent holes and use dowels. Like this:

In that case, why not just make your own gizmo? Drill two holes in a 2x4
with the spacing desired, add fences to position a workpiece, put on
workpiece, drill through the holes in the 2x4.
_________________

Assuming no one has any objections (ha), how would you glue something
like that? I only ask because it should not be under any stress at
all. Would you: Not use glue at all? Only put glue on the dowels? Or make
sure all the mating surfaces have glue?

Id put glue on the dowels and a bit on the other surfaces but not so much
that it squeezes out.

If you want to use thickened epoxy, you don't need the dowels.
_______________

Is there some other way to join these pieces that's not too
"advanced"? I plan to use pocket screws for some of the other joints, but
these
would show.

You could screw/nail through the bottom rail into the end pieces, wouldn't
show. They would show in the middle rail but that isn't necessarily bad.

You could rout the rails so thay have a tenon, route matching tongues in the
uprights and cut off excess tongue later. Fussy and I wouldn't do it but it
could be done. You could do it vice versa too; i.e., groove in the rails,
tongue on the spindles, fill the empty portions of the groove later (with
wood). I have done that, not all that hard.
________________

That brings me to the next issue. Each "leg" would consist of a 1x3
and a 1x2 joined at a right angle, probably with a slight shadow line. I
assume biscuits would do the trick here, and a biscuit joiner is not
out of the question, but I'm wondering what other options there might be.

Plain glue. That is all you need.. If you just have to have a mechanical
joint too, tongue & groove. Or dowels; T&G is easier but if you wanted to
use through dowels and let them show, that is easy.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/15/2014 7:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
Use loose tenon joinery, with a router jig like this:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#MortJig1


So far, I haven't got a plunge router. But I think I can see one from
here.

I'm curious about that jig (partly because it looks simple enough for
me to make). It looks as if it uses the bottom plate/body of the
router running along the stops in the jig for alignment. Is that
preferable in some way to a jig with a bearing-guided bit or a guide
ring? Or can you even use such things with a plunge router? (feel
free to take a deep breath if the ignorance gets too thick in here)

In addition, it looks as if the width of the mortise is not simply the
diameter of the bit; the router follows one fence, then moves over a
tad to follow the other fence in the opposite direction. Is that
correct?

Right. Clamp to work, run router around fences. The hard part is getting
the mortice centered; however, it isn't necessary to get the mortice dead
center, you just have to pay attention to how you attach the jig to the
workpiece...be sure that any offset from center is correct for where the
workpiece will be attached.

You shim the fences and stops to control the length and
thickness?

One could. Or, one could make moveable fences.


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On 1/15/2014 9:15 PM, Leon wrote:
You can make the rabbet relative shallow, 1/8" and you porbably would
only be able to tell by measuring. All you need is that shallow ledge
to keep the mating 1x2 piece from sliding across the face of the 1x3.

The more I think about this, the more I like the idea. One of the great
things about dadoes and rabbets (besides the fact that I have been
successful at making them) is that once they are cut, there's no more
worry about alignment; the precise amount of imprecision is locked in.



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On 1/16/2014 8:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
Check your incoming ...


Thanks, and thanks for telling me to check my email; I don't regularly
use that account. I'll read it at my leisure ... whenever that might be.
I may need to print it to read on the train.

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On 1/16/2014 8:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
I can round over the edges of 1/4" tenon stock almost as fast with a
file/rasp as I can setting up a round over bit on the router table,

I take from that comment that the fit need not be exact, except, I
suppose, thickness-wise.

so
don't tailed tools stop you.

I haven't so far. I can't afford "tailed" tools.

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On Wed, 15 Jan 2014 20:51:38 -0500, Greg Guarino
wrote:

I was considering buying a biscuit joiner to attach the "leg" pieces
together. I have no experience with biscuits, but from what I've seen on
TV (you can all snicker now), it doesn't look like you could fit a
biscuit into the end of a 1x2. Can you?

The Ryobi trim biscuit joiner that I have would.

http://woodworking.about.com/b/2011/...uit-joints.htm

There is a picture of it in the article.

Mark

On 1/16/2014 10:19 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 1/15/2014 9:15 PM, Leon wrote:
You can make the rabbet relative shallow, 1/8" and you porbably would
only be able to tell by measuring. All you need is that shallow ledge
to keep the mating 1x2 piece from sliding across the face of the 1x3.

The more I think about this, the more I like the idea. One of the great
things about dadoes and rabbets (besides the fact that I have been
successful at making them) is that once they are cut, there's no more
worry about alignment; the precise amount of imprecision is locked in.




Exactly, the rabbet is only marginally stronger than a butt joint but is
quite helpful in holding the mating pieces in registration to each other.




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On 1/16/2014 8:25 AM, Swingman wrote:
Check your incoming ...


I read the article on the subway this evening. I was thinking about ways
to make it easier to make multiple pieces. It looks like it's kind of a
pain to line up a new piece and clamp it each time. And is one bar clamp
really enough to keep the piece steady while routing?

Here's my first thought experiment. Imagine that instead of clamping the
"fence" part of the jig in a vise, perpendicular to the jaws, you
screwed the fence into the fixed jaw of the vise (face to face), such
that the "table" of the jig just just touches the top of the vise jaws.

And ... oh hell, I guess I need the sketchup practice anyway:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguari...8715/lightbox/

Use the right arrow to scroll. There are 5 views.

The jig, pretty much as it was shown in the article Karl sent me, is
shown in beige. The vise is gray (it's a magic vise: no threads). The
workpiece is red. The jaws and spacer are orange. The jig would be
screwed into the fixed jaw, or could alternatively replace the fixed jaw.

In my extremely inexpert opinion, this arrangement would allow you to
put a new piece in simply by loosening the vise, slipping in a new piece
and retightening. The main limiting factor is the space between the rods
of the vise, at least for making mortises in end grain. I added in a
spacer, attached to the moving jaw of the vise (shown in a darker
orange) mostly to allow the handle to spin, but it could also serve to
support the jig.

So, is there anything stupid about this that I'm not seeing?

On 1/16/2014 9:20 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

So, is there anything stupid about this that I'm not seeing?

There is very little that can't be improved for the way you work.

Like I said, I built a prototype chair, with compound angled joinery,.
using that jig for the mortises that is still in use. It was not an
efficient experience compared to my Multi-Router, but it got the job done.

The proof will be in the pudding.

BTW, excellent use of SketchUp!

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On 1/17/2014 8:08 AM, Swingman wrote:
The proof will be in the pudding.

Pudding cooks for an awful long time in my house.

BTW, excellent use of SketchUp!

Thanks. I'm progressing.


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