I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic). I didn't
locate any by Craftsman. From reading some reviews there appears to be
some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2" will be fine until I need
something larger. Any last second advise on this purchase?

Thanks,
Bill

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 00:21:17 -0500, Bill
locate any by Craftsman. From reading some reviews there appears to be
some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2" will be fine until I need
something larger. Any last second advise on this purchase?

I bought this one a few years back. Works very well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41306,41328

Then, I bought this set so I could counter sink in tighter areas.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 00:21:17 -0500, Bill
locate any by Craftsman. From reading some reviews there appears to be
some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2" will be fine until I need
something larger. Any last second advise on this purchase?
I bought this one a few years back. Works very well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41306,41328

Then, I bought this set so I could counter sink in tighter areas.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281



Thank you very much. That is helpful.

Bill

wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 00:21:17 -0500,
locate any by Craftsman. From reading some reviews there appears to be
some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2" will be fine until I need
something larger. Any last second advise on this purchase?

I bought this one a few years back. Works very well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41306,41328

Then, I bought this set so I could counter sink in tighter areas.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281


The single flute bits are the best. I have one similar and several
with 6 flutes and there is no comparison.

--
 GW Ross 

 I'm as confused as a baby in a 
 topless bar. 

"Bill" wrote:

I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits
(i.e. with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was
looking for a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and
plastic). I didn't locate any by Craftsman. From reading some
reviews there appears to be some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2"
will be fine until I need something larger. Any last second advise on
this purchase?
------------------------------------------
W W Grainger or McMaster Carr.

Lew

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 04:27:57 -0500, none wrote:



I bought this one a few years back. Works very well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41306,41328

That'a the one I use the most. If I've only got one or two holes to do,
I've got a similar but smaller one that I keep mounted in an antique
eggbeater drill.

G. Ross wrote:
wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 00:21:17 -0500,
locate any by Craftsman. From reading some reviews there appears to be
some "junk" out there. I suppose 1/2" will be fine until I need
something larger. Any last second advise on this purchase?

I bought this one a few years back. Works very well.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41306,41328

Then, I bought this set so I could counter sink in tighter areas.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...80,42240,42281


The single flute bits are the best. I have one similar and several
with 6 flutes and there is no comparison.


I was wondering about that detail. Thank you for sharing your
experience. Also thank you to the others that provided me leads to
other bits (I saved them for present and future reference!)

Bill

On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).

Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).

Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

Yes Pat, that's a set I would like to get. The web site indicates they
are sold out, but I will look for them at The Woodworking Shows in 2 weeks.

Bill

On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 17:02:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).

Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281

Yes Pat, that's a set I would like to get. The web site indicates they
are sold out, but I will look for them at The Woodworking Shows in 2 weeks.

Bill

I'm curious why one would want a set of these when a single bit,
similar to the one others have recommended, could do the job?

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 17:02:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).
Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281
Yes Pat, that's a set I would like to get. The web site indicates they
are sold out, but I will look for them at The Woodworking Shows in 2 weeks.

Bill
I'm curious why one would want a set of these when a single bit,
similar to the one others have recommended, could do the job?

Because they could help create a cylindrically-shaped hole, if desired
(perhaps for use with a "plug"), rather than just a conically-shaped hole.

Bill

On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 18:26:24 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 17:02:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).
Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281
Yes Pat, that's a set I would like to get. The web site indicates they
are sold out, but I will look for them at The Woodworking Shows in 2 weeks.

Bill
I'm curious why one would want a set of these when a single bit,
similar to the one others have recommended, could do the job?

Because they could help create a cylindrically-shaped hole, if desired
(perhaps for use with a "plug"), rather than just a conically-shaped hole.

Bill

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 18:26:24 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 17:02:18 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/2/2014 9:21 PM, Bill wrote:
I already have a couple of those Craftsman combocounter sink bits (i.e.
with a drill bit) that came with a drill bit set, but I was looking for
a decent counter sink bit by itself, for wood (and plastic).
Like these:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...80,42240,42281
Yes Pat, that's a set I would like to get. The web site indicates they
are sold out, but I will look for them at The Woodworking Shows in 2 weeks.

Bill
I'm curious why one would want a set of these when a single bit,
similar to the one others have recommended, could do the job?
Because they could help create a cylindrically-shaped hole, if desired
(perhaps for use with a "plug"), rather than just a conically-shaped hole.

Bill
But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?


Gordon, You don't even have to plug the holes if you don't to. I was
just illustrating how they are two *different* tools (you asked, why not
just buy one?).

Bill

Would be looking at M.A. Ford single flute.
They're self centering, up to 1", many angles, clear the chip without fanfare, but not cheap. But not a 2-eleven in progress either.
Examples = http://patwarner.com/images/tsweb4767.jpg
More on drilling tools? http://patwarner.com/drilling_tools.html

On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.

On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.
For those a straight bit is required, not a tapered.

I have a set of both, tapered and straight.

I rarely use wood screws anymore, I do when it is necessary, or more
accurate.

Take a look at the snappy brand.
http://www.snappytools.com/products/csink.asp

--
Jeff

On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?

On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

--
Jeff

woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.

On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about you.

--
Jeff

woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about you.

You've still shown no evidence, just assertion. What's your background
to make such an assertion?

On 1/7/2014 12:59 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about you.

You've still shown no evidence, just assertion. What's your background
to make such an assertion?

Well you got me there Scott. I just pulled it out of my ass.



--
Jeff

On 1/7/14, 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about you.


All of you just stop already.

The guy meant "straight shank" screw. He said drywall screw but
obviously was talking about straight vs. tapered and used a lousy example.

And you, quit digging the whole deeper. Just admit you used poor wording
when using drywall screw as an example of a straight shank screw.
Because anyone who uses a drywall screw in woodworking is using very
poor judgment. Drywall screws are for drywall and are way to brittle for
woodworking.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/7/2014 11:01 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0



My concern was with using drywall screws for woodworking. I used dry
wall screws back in the early 80's and then discovered, for woodworking,
that they were an improvement over the cheesy screws you find at the
local BORG but lacked in strength and size for furniture building.

On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.

On 1/7/2014 12:35 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.


All of you just stop already.

The guy meant "straight shank" screw. He said drywall screw but
obviously was talking about straight vs. tapered and used a lousy example.

And you, quit digging the whole deeper. Just admit you used poor wording
when using drywall screw as an example of a straight shank screw.
Because anyone who uses a drywall screw in woodworking is using very
poor judgment. Drywall screws are for drywall and are way to brittle for
woodworking.




LOL, thank you Mike. Exactly the point I was trying to clarify.

On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.





You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from drywall.
The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more screws are used for
drywall than furniture, so it is the technology from the drywall screw
that drove the other wood threaded types of fasteners... the threads
being much sharper , deeper, and less prone to splitting.
The old taper had the problem of splitting wood often. If you didn't
drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up with a split
from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw since the taper was
too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.

--
Jeff

Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Thank you! This thread has suggested a range of tools and possibilities
with counter sink bits. I found it really interesting.

Bill

On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use
drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.





You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from drywall.
The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more screws are used for
drywall than furniture, so it is the technology from the drywall screw
that drove the other wood threaded types of fasteners... the threads
being much sharper , deeper, and less prone to splitting.
The old taper had the problem of splitting wood often. If you didn't
drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up with a split
from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw since the taper was
too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws you
changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what agree on,
although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in diameter
to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the point I was trying
to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not around
in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.

Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush
fit for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time.
While they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight
shanked screws that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use
drywall screws instead of wood screws", there would be no
complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that
about you.

You've still shown no evidence, just assertion. What's your
background to make such an assertion?

Oh... Good God... Really, Scott?

--

-Mike-

On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked
screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use
drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.





You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from drywall.
The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more screws are used for
drywall than furniture, so it is the technology from the drywall screw
that drove the other wood threaded types of fasteners... the threads
being much sharper , deeper, and less prone to splitting.
The old taper had the problem of splitting wood often. If you didn't
drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up with a split
from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw since the taper was
too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws you
changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what agree on,
although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in diameter
to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the point I was trying
to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not around
in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.


So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/7/14, 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use
drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.





You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from drywall.
The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more screws are used for
drywall than furniture, so it is the technology from the drywall screw
that drove the other wood threaded types of fasteners... the threads
being much sharper , deeper, and less prone to splitting.
The old taper had the problem of splitting wood often. If you didn't
drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up with a split
from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw since the taper was
too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.


I tried to help you out of that hole, but you kept digging.
Want another shovel? :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/7/2014 5:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the
different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240


Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush
fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time. While
they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight shanked
screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If you'd
limited your statement to "they won't work for me, because I use
drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into your
assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that about
you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us using
dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us don't use
the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a dry wall "type"
screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I was not so sure.





You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from drywall.
The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more screws are used for
drywall than furniture, so it is the technology from the drywall screw
that drove the other wood threaded types of fasteners... the threads
being much sharper , deeper, and less prone to splitting.
The old taper had the problem of splitting wood often. If you didn't
drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up with a split
from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw since the taper was
too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws you
changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what agree on,
although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in diameter
to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the point I was trying
to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not around
in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.


So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


Not really, it's not the straight shank alone, it's the rolled threads
that made the straight shank really workable. it's got more strength and
is really the big deal.

But fine if you want to say I am a total idiot and didn't know what I
was referring to, I have no problem.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover
the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240


Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a
flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time.
While they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight
shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If
you'd limited your statement to "they won't work for me,
because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into
your assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that
about you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us
using dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us
don't use the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a
dry wall "type" screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I
was not so sure.
You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from
drywall. The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more
screws are used for drywall than furniture, so it is the
technology from the drywall screw that drove the other wood
threaded types of fasteners... the threads being much sharper ,
deeper, and less prone to splitting. The old taper had the problem of
splitting wood often. If you
didn't drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up
with a split from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw
since the taper was too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws
you changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what
agree on, although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in
diameter to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the
point I was trying to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not
around in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.


So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


Not really, it's not the straight shank alone, it's the rolled threads
that made the straight shank really workable. it's got more strength
and is really the big deal.

But fine if you want to say I am a total idiot and didn't know what I
was referring to, I have no problem.

Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many people
taking exception to what Jeff said based on some idiosyncratic crap that
never even mattered in the first place. Ferpetessake - the guy was just
trying to make a point - not to write a dissertations that he'd have to
defend. I got the point he was trying to make. Can't help but wonder why
others didn't.

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many people
taking exception to what Jeff said based on some idiosyncratic crap
that never even mattered in the first place. Ferpetessake - the guy
was just trying to make a point - not to write a dissertations that
he'd have to defend. I got the point he was trying to make. Can't help
but wonder why others didn't.


The thread went great except for the shift into drywall screws--I mean
non-tapered screws! Maybe create a separate drywall screw thread? ; )

Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many people
taking exception to what Jeff said based on some idiosyncratic crap
that never even mattered in the first place. Ferpetessake - the guy
was just trying to make a point - not to write a dissertations that
he'd have to defend. I got the point he was trying to make. Can't
help but wonder why others didn't.


The thread went great except for the shift into drywall screws--I mean
non-tapered screws! Maybe create a separate drywall screw thread? ; )

Yes - you are correct in that. I guess I got focused on the minutia that
started flying around when the content turned to the discussion on
screws/threads/whateverelse. Not that I've ever been caught up in that kind
of thing...

--

-Mike-

On 1/7/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover
the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240


Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a
flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time.
While they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight
shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If
you'd limited your statement to "they won't work for me,
because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into
your assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that
about you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us
using dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us
don't use the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a
dry wall "type" screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I
was not so sure.
You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from
drywall. The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more
screws are used for drywall than furniture, so it is the
technology from the drywall screw that drove the other wood
threaded types of fasteners... the threads being much sharper ,
deeper, and less prone to splitting. The old taper had the problem of
splitting wood often. If you
didn't drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up
with a split from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw
since the taper was too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws
you changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what
agree on, although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in
diameter to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the
point I was trying to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not
around in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.


So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


Not really, it's not the straight shank alone, it's the rolled threads
that made the straight shank really workable. it's got more strength
and is really the big deal.

But fine if you want to say I am a total idiot and didn't know what I
was referring to, I have no problem.

Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many people
taking exception to what Jeff said based on some idiosyncratic crap that
never even mattered in the first place. Ferpetessake - the guy was just
trying to make a point - not to write a dissertations that he'd have to
defend. I got the point he was trying to make. Can't help but wonder why
others didn't.

Relax Mike, I'm no taking it to heart. I have too think a skin for that.
Just trying to have fun with the guys that want to have a punching bag..


--
Jeff

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 10:46:28 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240

Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?




I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.

Mark

On 1/7/2014 5:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover
the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240



Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a
flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the time.
While they don't have to be drywall screws, they are straight
shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If
you'd limited your statement to "they won't work for me,
because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall into
your assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF SCREW..
STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew that
about you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of us
using dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most of us
don't use the tapered wood screw but until you later clarified a
dry wall "type" screw and referring to the shape of the screw, I
was not so sure.
You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from
drywall. The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more
screws are used for drywall than furniture, so it is the
technology from the drywall screw that drove the other wood
threaded types of fasteners... the threads being much sharper ,
deeper, and less prone to splitting. The old taper had the problem of
splitting wood often. If you
didn't drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound up
with a split from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a screw
since the taper was too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention screws
that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned specifically drywall
screws. After I took exception that most of us use drywall screws
you changed your comment to dry wall "like". That i some what
agree on, although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in
diameter to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the
point I was trying to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not
around in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were patented as
early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from drywall.


So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


Not really, it's not the straight shank alone, it's the rolled threads
that made the straight shank really workable. it's got more strength
and is really the big deal.

But fine if you want to say I am a total idiot and didn't know what I
was referring to, I have no problem.

Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many people
taking exception to what Jeff said based on some idiosyncratic crap that
never even mattered in the first place. Ferpetessake - the guy was just
trying to make a point - not to write a dissertations that he'd have to
defend. I got the point he was trying to make. Can't help but wonder
why
others didn't.

Relax Mike, I'm no taking it to heart. I have too think a skin for that.
Just trying to have fun with the guys that want to have a punching bag..


FWIW "I" was just trying to clarify, not prove you wrong.

Now, is "think" skin closer to thin or thick. ;~) Just playing with you.

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 18:00:01 -0500, woodchucker
wrote:

Relax Mike, I'm no t taking it to heart. I have too thi c k a skin for that.
Just trying to have fun with the guys that want to have a punching bag..

Jeff any revisions you want to put up beyond these?



Mark