Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:00 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 5:09 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 3:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 1:51 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 2:43 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 11:39 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 12:29 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
woodchucker writes:
On 1/7/2014 11:46 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 9:58 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:51 AM, Pat Barber wrote:
On 1/6/2014 5:15 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

But wouldn't that require multiple plug cutters to cover
the different
diameters?

The Lee Valley counter sinks are not designed for plugs,
you would need these for plugs:

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,180,42240



Often times, the hole doesn't really need a plug, just a
flush fit
for the screw head.




Those are for wood screws, not drywall screws.
Most of us use dry wall screws today.


Really, do you believe that?





Yes I do. I said most. I didn't say all.
I think if you took a survey you would not find tapered wood
screws in
use for 90% of the people.

I think you will find DRY WALL (LIKE) screws most of the
time. While they don't have to be drywall screws, they are
straight shanked screws
that are drywall like.

There is that better? ;-0

Not really; you've expressed nothing but personal opinion. If
you'd limited your statement to "they won't work for me,
because I use drywall
screws instead of wood screws", there would be no complaints.

As I use wood screws, I (and apparently Leon), don't fall
into your assumptive "most of us" categeory.


That's correct. MOST OF US is NOT ALL OF US!!
But I'm pretty sure MOST OF US DO USE A DRY WALL TYPE OF
SCREW.. STRAIGHT SHANKED OVER TAPERED.
Since you don't, you're not most of us, and I already knew
that about you.



My biggest question was with your original comment of most of
us using dry wall screws. I'm not doubting that probably most
of us don't use the tapered wood screw but until you later
clarified a dry wall "type" screw and referring to the shape
of the screw, I was not so sure.
You have to realize that our straight shank screws came from
drywall. The screws for furniture were stil tapered. Way more
screws are used for drywall than furniture, so it is the
technology from the drywall screw that drove the other wood
threaded types of fasteners... the threads being much sharper ,
deeper, and less prone to splitting. The old taper had the
problem of splitting wood often. If you
didn't drill with a tapered bit to the correct depth you wound
up with a split from too short a pilot hole, or too loose a
screw since the taper was too wide because you drove it too deep.

I still occasionally use a tapered screw, but I prefer not to.



OK, you are missing my point. You did not originally mention
screws that resembled dry wall screws, you mentioned
specifically drywall screws. After I took exception that most of
us use drywall screws you changed your comment to dry wall
"like". That i some what agree on, although.....

Dry wall screws specifically are much too brittle and small in
diameter to be acceptable for furniture building. This is the
point I was trying to make.


I am going to assume dry wall and or the drywall screws were not
around in the 1800's.

Having said that straight shank gimlet point screws were
patented as early as 1846 by the Eagle Screw Company.

So perhaps today's straight shank screws did not come from
drywall.

So correct.... but he kept digging anyway. :-)


Not really, it's not the straight shank alone, it's the rolled
threads that made the straight shank really workable. it's got
more strength and is really the big deal.

But fine if you want to say I am a total idiot and didn't know
what I was referring to, I have no problem.

Oye! This thread didn't even get off to a good start. Too many
people taking exception to what Jeff said based on some
idiosyncratic crap that never even mattered in the first place.
Ferpetessake - the guy was just trying to make a point - not to
write a dissertations that he'd have to defend. I got the point he
was trying to make. Can't help but wonder why
others didn't.

Relax Mike, I'm no taking it to heart. I have too think a skin for
that. Just trying to have fun with the guys that want to have a
punching bag..
FWIW "I" was just trying to clarify, not prove you wrong.

Now, is "think" skin closer to thin or thick. ;~) Just playing with
you.

Oh come on Leon - everyone knows that "think" skin is an esoteric term
meaning...

Oh hell - what does it really mean?

I quit - I'm going back out to the garage to work on my outfeed
table...Somebody wake me up in the morning...

--

-Mike-

"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Use S/S, coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws for
fiberglass assemblies and furniture applications.

Since only a few sizes are req'd, buying 100 pc boxes is not
a problem and helps keep costs in line.

Fine thread dry wall screws stay on the shelf at Home depot.

Lew

Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread screw
available? It's just going to be torn down again very quickly.


Use S/S, coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws for
fiberglass assemblies and furniture applications.

Huh - again. For furniture applications?


Since only a few sizes are req'd, buying 100 pc boxes is not
a problem and helps keep costs in line.

Agreed.


Fine thread dry wall screws stay on the shelf at Home depot.


Really agreed!

--

-Mike-

On 1/7/2014 11:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread screw
available? It's just going to be torn down again very quickly.


Use S/S, coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws for
fiberglass assemblies and furniture applications.

Huh - again. For furniture applications?


Since only a few sizes are req'd, buying 100 pc boxes is not
a problem and helps keep costs in line.

Agreed.


Fine thread dry wall screws stay on the shelf at Home depot.


Really agreed!

Not really. When I used steel studs for some construction, I used the
self drilling fine threads for the steel. That's what they are meant for
Steel studs and not wood.

--
Jeff

Lew Hodgett wrote:

SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.
----------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread
screw available? It's just going to be torn down again very
quickly.
--------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

They are.

Check out 1-5/8", coarse thread pricing.
---------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Use S/S, coarse thread self tapping sheet metal screws for
fiberglass assemblies and furniture applications.
------------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Huh - again. For furniture applications?
------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

It's not worth stocking both S/S for marine and non S/S fasteners
for furniture.
-----------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Since only a few sizes are req'd, buying 100 pc boxes is not
a problem and helps keep costs in line.
----------------------------------------------
"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Agreed.
-------------------------------------------------
Lew Hodgett wrote:

Fine thread dry wall screws stay on the shelf at Home depot.
-------------------------------------------------

"Mike Marlow" wrote:

Really agreed!
-----------------------------------------------

Lew

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 17:14:08 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
FWIW "I" was just trying to clarify, not prove you wrong.
Now, is "think" skin closer to thin or thick. ;~) Just playing with you.

No, no. He "thinks" a thicker skin when he needs to protect himself.

On 1/7/2014 10:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread screw
available? It's just going to be torn down again very quickly.



Because a cheap ass screw does not know the difference between something
that is or is not a mockup. If it strips, breaks, or what ever it is
still not worth the pennies saved compared to your valuable time.

On 1/7/2014 11:08 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 17:14:08 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
FWIW "I" was just trying to clarify, not prove you wrong.
Now, is "think" skin closer to thin or thick. ;~) Just playing with you.

No, no. He "thinks" a thicker skin when he needs to protect himself.




Perhaps. '~)

I was not going after him so he had no reason to be on the defense, but
Scott OTOH....

Anyway, I in another life was in retail and upper management in the
automotive world. I learned real quick that you assumed nothing and
asked questions if the customer or employee was not crystal clear with
his or her comments, questions, etc.

On 1/7/14, 11:10 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread
screw
available? It's just going to be torn down again very quickly.



Because a cheap ass screw does not know the difference between something
that is or is not a mockup. If it strips, breaks, or what ever it is
still not worth the pennies saved compared to your valuable time.


I've RE-used the same high quality square drive self-tapping screws from
McFeely's for years in dozens of mock-ups and jigs and other stuff. I
probably stripped out and broke just as many cheap-ass screww and
*drywall* before switching to high quality screws. I will never go back.

Lowes and Home both now sell SPAX® screws which are right up there or
better than McFeely's. Their moto is "Do it once. Do it right." and they
are spot on with that.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/8/2014 12:17 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/7/14, 11:10 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/7/2014 10:02 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Markem" wrote:

I use drywall screws for drywall, but wood no I do not them use as
they rust and break.
-----------------------------------------------------
SFWIW

Use coarse thread deck screws for temporary structures
such as mockups.

Huh? If it is just a mockup, why not use the cheapest coarse thread
screw
available? It's just going to be torn down again very quickly.



Because a cheap ass screw does not know the difference between something
that is or is not a mockup. If it strips, breaks, or what ever it is
still not worth the pennies saved compared to your valuable time.


I've RE-used the same high quality square drive self-tapping screws from
McFeely's for years in dozens of mock-ups and jigs and other stuff. I
probably stripped out and broke just as many cheap-ass screww and
*drywall* before switching to high quality screws. I will never go back.

Lowes and Home both now sell SPAX® screws which are right up there or
better than McFeely's. Their moto is "Do it once. Do it right." and they
are spot on with that.




I have use Spax Lag Screws, a little pricey but they are very well made.
They actually look like you are getting what you are paying for.
Regular lag screws are a crap shoot, will the head twist off or not.

On 1/8/14, 9:33 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/8/2014 12:17 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Because a cheap ass screw does not know the difference between something
that is or is not a mockup. If it strips, breaks, or what ever it is
still not worth the pennies saved compared to your valuable time.


I've RE-used the same high quality square drive self-tapping screws from
McFeely's for years in dozens of mock-ups and jigs and other stuff. I
probably stripped out and broke just as many cheap-ass screww and
*drywall* before switching to high quality screws. I will never go back.

Lowes and Home both now sell SPAX® screws which are right up there or
better than McFeely's. Their moto is "Do it once. Do it right." and they
are spot on with that.




I have use Spax Lag Screws, a little pricey but they are very well made.
They actually look like you are getting what you are paying for.
Regular lag screws are a crap shoot, will the head twist off or not.


I refuse to use those horrible, cheap, galvanized lags sold in the bins,
anymore. Yes they are cheap, but as you point out, you never know when
the head will pop off. I would never instal one without some wax on the
threads. It seems like if you don't get the drilled hole just perfect,
they either snap or strip out.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply