In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.

I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.

I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt



Have you tried plugging another relatively heavy draw tool into the
circuit to rule out your jointer?

On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

....

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off
less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this
might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit.
Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which
is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6'
from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from
that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled
the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either
since Ihave this connected to my DC.

....

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit
breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought
the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.
....

GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as low
as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a leakage path
that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it probably started off at
just barely under and know with some age there's some insulation
degradation that has let it now be just over instead of just under.

Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for at
least a while,

b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

c) do away w/ the GFCIs

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?

--

On 10/14/2013 7:13 PM, dpb wrote:
....

Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for at
least a while,

b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

c) do away w/ the GFCIs

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?

And, while it's less likely given the two circuits both behave the same
now, look for and check all circuit connections to eliminate any high
impedance ones (relatively) that could contribute to the small imbalance.

--

dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as
low as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a
leakage path that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it probably
started off at just barely under and know with some age there's some
insulation degradation that has let it now be just over instead of
just under.

Or it indicates an aging GFCI. These things do not have long life
expectancies.


Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for
at least a while,

That would be my first approach.


b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

I find this one to be less likely.


--

-Mike-

On Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:13:44 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

...

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off
less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this
might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit.
Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which
is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6'
from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from
that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled
the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either
since Ihave this connected to my DC.

...

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit
breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought
the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.
...

GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as low
as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a leakage path
that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it probably started off at
just barely under and know with some age there's some insulation
degradation that has let it now be just over instead of just under.

Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for at
least a while,

That would be my first choice.

b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

c) do away w/ the GFCIs

....and that if a) didn't work.

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?

Bill Leonhardt wrote:

In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a
GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

...

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off
less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking
this
might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second
circuit.
Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC
which
is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6'
from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from
that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled
the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either
since Ihave this connected to my DC.

...

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the
circuit
breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I
bought
the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.
------------------------------------------------------------------
"dpb" wrote:

GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as
low as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a
leakage path that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it
probably started off at just barely under and know with some age
there's some insulation degradation that has let it now be just over
instead of just under.

Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away
for at least a while,

b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current.
It's highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics
any although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it
out thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

c) do away w/ the GFCIs

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?
----------------------------------------------------
I vote for "C" above.

The GFCI is a bit much in this application, IMHO.

Lew

c) do away w/ the GFCIs

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?
----------------------------------------------------
I vote for "C" above.

The GFCI is a bit much in this application, IMHO.

Lew



That might not be possible. I have a basement shop, and I am required by
code to have 12g wiring and gfci on each ckt.

I would try a new gfci, it's cheap enough to give it a try.
--
Jeff

On 10/14/2013 7:39 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as
low as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a
leakage path that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it probably
started off at just barely under and know with some age there's some
insulation degradation that has let it now be just over instead of
just under.

Or it indicates an aging GFCI. These things do not have long life
expectancies.

I'd find that more convincing if it weren't both failing at the same
exact time...that's just _too_ coincidental...

Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for
at least a while,

That would be my first approach.

It's certainly the simplest...


b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

I find this one to be less likely.

Well, in the days of GFCIs originally motors were notoriously
high-enough leakage to cause them to trip. That a presumably
Chinese-motor on an import tool has enough after a few years to now
cause a trip (on two separate ones, no less) is less remarkable
occurrence to me than the two GFCIs failing identically.

--

On 10/14/2013 7:53 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
....

"dpb" wrote:

....


c) do away w/ the GFCIs
....

I vote for "C" above.

The GFCI is a bit much in this application, IMHO.
....

That's certainly what I'd do, too, but figured I'd be conservative...

I don't have any on the place, anywhere, and have survived so far. I
have considered putting one on the heater circuits for the stock
waterers as the one place could see it being a benefit but they've been
there for 60-year or so and haven't ever been a problem so it seems like
a solution looking for a problem more than a cure...so haven't ever
gotten one of them round tuits.

--

GFI is getting wore out?
Problem with the windings and or arcing in switch/motor?
The GFI is getting input either from the machine or the GF! i s wore out?
Are the plugs and receptacles in good condition?
john

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote in message
...

In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect
everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits
with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain
of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a
few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that
1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the
GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem.
The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate
240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the
panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover
off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this
connected to my DC.

I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth
of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the
leftover maple.

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit
breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought
the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 7:39 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a
GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20
amp.


GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as
low as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a
leakage path that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it
probably started off at just barely under and know with some age
there's some insulation degradation that has let it now be just
over instead of just under.

Or it indicates an aging GFCI. These things do not have long life
expectancies.

I'd find that more convincing if it weren't both failing at the same
exact time...that's just _too_ coincidental...

Yeah - chock that up to poor reading. I'm sorry - I did not notice that.


--

-Mike-

dpb wrote:

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?


As someone who has been considering installing a ceiling dust collector
(or something else) on the same circuit as fluorescent lighting, is
there an issue here I should know about?
Why did you raise the concern?

Thanks,
Bill

On 10/14/2013 8:55 PM, Bill wrote:
dpb wrote:

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?


As someone who has been considering installing a ceiling dust collector
(or something else) on the same circuit as fluorescent lighting, is
there an issue here I should know about?
Why did you raise the concern?

RFI from the fluorescent is sometimes factor in false GFCI trips...there
shouldn't be any need for GFCI on such a circuit.

--

On Monday, October 14, 2013 7:50:23 PM UTC-4, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.



This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.



The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.



The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.



I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.



Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.



Thanks,



Bill Leonhardt

Follow-up

I have my lights (fluorescent) coming off the main house panel and all else coming off a sub panel for the shop. That way I can lock out all machines and outlets when I have grand kids working in the shop.

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits (those not dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.

All my outlets and plugs are in good shape but the GFCIs are 9 or 10 years old. Still, it's hard to imagine they both failed at the same time.

I will see if I can get compressed air into the motor (although I think it's sealed)to further blow it out. My 13" Rigid planer ran OK on one of the circuits since I got enough of the board flattened before the jointer quit to plane both sides.

I'll report back after the air trial.

Bill

dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 8:55 PM, Bill wrote:
dpb wrote:

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?


As someone who has been considering installing a ceiling dust
collector (or something else) on the same circuit as fluorescent
lighting, is there an issue here I should know about?
Why did you raise the concern?

RFI from the fluorescent is sometimes factor in false GFCI
trips...there shouldn't be any need for GFCI on such a circuit.

Not to contradict, but to bring clarity... proximity matters. If you have
a GFCI at 4' on a wall, and fluorescent lights at 7 feet, you'll have no
problems. That assumes maybe something like 2 or 3 feet from the wall with
the light run. Maybe even closer, but experience can certainly say that 2
feet will cause you no problems.

dpb usually posts some pretty factual stuff - maybe he can add to the
distance thing with more accurate stuff than I did.

--

-Mike-

Bill Leonhardt wrote:


Follow-up

I have my lights (fluorescent) coming off the main house panel and
all else coming off a sub panel for the shop. That way I can lock
out all machines and outlets when I have grand kids working in the
shop.

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits (those
not dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.

All my outlets and plugs are in good shape but the GFCIs are 9 or 10
years old. Still, it's hard to imagine they both failed at the same
time.

I will see if I can get compressed air into the motor (although I
think it's sealed)to further blow it out. My 13" Rigid planer ran OK
on one of the circuits since I got enough of the board flattened
before the jointer quit to plane both sides.

I'll report back after the air trial.


For now, I'd nix the lighting concerns. I have to go back and look at your
original post tomorrow, as dpb pointed out that I had missed some thing(s)
earlier. Right now... absent that look tomorrow, I'm leaning toward a
problem at the device. But - I do have to look at this when I'm not tired.
Oh hell - that could take a while...

--

-Mike-

On Mon, 14 Oct 2013 19:24:10 -0700, Bill Leonhardt wrote:

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits (those
not dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.

I recently had our house inspected for a sale. The inspector required a
GFCI on any receptacle within 5' or so of a faucet, but not on any other
circuit. It may be different for new construction or for your state but
I've never heard of an overall requirement for a GFCI.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On Mon, 14 Oct 2013 20:39:14 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 6:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I
connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp
(120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI
outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



GFCIs work on the current imbalance between the two legs and trip as
low as 5-6 mA. What this indicates is that the motor now has a
leakage path that ends up being above the GFCI threshold--it probably
started off at just barely under and know with some age there's some
insulation degradation that has let it now be just over instead of
just under.

Or it indicates an aging GFCI. These things do not have long life
expectancies.


Your choices as I see it are--

a) replace the GFCI w/ a different/newer one and see if goes away for
at least a while,

That would be my first approach.


b) replace the motor w/ one that doesn't have the leakage current. It's
highly unlikely you'll be able to change its characteristics any
although despite no heavy dust buildup you might try blowing it out
thoroughly w/ compressed air to see if internal dust could be
contributing to the problem, or

I find this one to be less likely.
Actually not uncommon.

Bill Leonhardt wrote:

Follow-up

I have my lights (fluorescent) coming off the main house panel and all
else coming off a sub panel for the shop. That way I can lock out all
machines and outlets when I have grand kids working in the shop.

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits (those
not dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don't think so.

If you follow that logic, EVERY receptacle in the house would
require GFCI protection which obviously is not the case.

Do you have water plumbed into your shop?

If so, you may require GFCI protection if receptacle close to
a water faucet, otherwise not.

Try replacing the GFCI receptacle with an industrial grade
receptacle (5262), which you may not be able to get at HD,
but may have to get from an electrical distributor.

It will be a heavy duty, 20A receptacle, that may cost as much
as $10 for a single unit.

Lew

dpb wrote:
On 10/14/2013 8:55 PM, Bill wrote:
dpb wrote:

Oh, there's no fluorescent lighting on the circuit is there?


As someone who has been considering installing a ceiling dust collector
(or something else) on the same circuit as fluorescent lighting, is
there an issue here I should know about?
Why did you raise the concern?

RFI from the fluorescent is sometimes factor in false GFCI
trips...there shouldn't be any need for GFCI on such a circuit.

--
Thank you. Indeed, my lighting is not on a GFCI circuit.

Forgot to add, look for a Hubbell 5262 receptacle, every electrical
counter person will recognize what you are trying to find.

Lew
----------------------------------------------------

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com...

Bill Leonhardt wrote:

Follow-up

I have my lights (fluorescent) coming off the main house panel and
all else coming off a sub panel for the shop. That way I can lock
out all machines and outlets when I have grand kids working in the
shop.

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits
(those not dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don't think so.

If you follow that logic, EVERY receptacle in the house would
require GFCI protection which obviously is not the case.

Do you have water plumbed into your shop?

If so, you may require GFCI protection if receptacle close to
a water faucet, otherwise not.

Try replacing the GFCI receptacle with an industrial grade
receptacle (5262), which you may not be able to get at HD,
but may have to get from an electrical distributor.

It will be a heavy duty, 20A receptacle, that may cost as much
as $10 for a single unit.

Lew

On 10/14/2013 7:50 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.

On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.

This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.

The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.

The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.

I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.

Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.

Thanks,

Bill Leonhardt

I'm wondering if the same reason a GFI is not used on a fridge circuit,
is the same reason it should not be used in shops for other motors (a
compressor at its guts is a motor), not for the food spoilage, but more
because of possible leakage.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
eb.com
Bill Leonhardt wrote:

Follow-up

I have my lights (fluorescent) coming off the main house
panel and all else coming off a sub panel for the shop. That way I can
lock out all machines and outlets when I
have grand kids working in the shop.
The shop is in my basement and I believe that general
circuits (those not dedicated to a specific use) are
required have a GFCI.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don't think so.
If you follow that logic, EVERY receptacle in the house
would require GFCI protection which obviously is not the case.


I'm thinking they are treating the basement as they do an exterior wall
because of the (potential) dampness.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 10/14/2013 9:24 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
....

The shop is in my basement and I believe that general circuits
(thosenot dedicated to a specific use) are required have a GFCI.

If you're covered by NEC in current area, theoretically that's
so...another case where the cure is worse than the disease in many cases.

....

I will see if I can get compressed air into the motor (although I
think it's sealed)to further blow it out. My 13" Rigid planer ran OK on
one of the circuits since I got enough of the board flattened before the
jointer quit to plane both sides.

I'll report back after the air trial.

An potential alternative that fixes the problem longer term if it turns
out the motor leakage has gotten high enough for even a replacement GFCI
would be (presuming it's a dual-voltage motor) to switch it over to a
240V circuit--they're not under the NEC mandate. I'd prefer it on the
higher voltage anyways if possible.

Again, don't forget to check motor connections at the plug and motor end
to ensure they're as clean and tight as possible to eliminate any chance
of a higher impedance connection being the final straw on the current
imbalance.

Since you're hitting both circuits, it's pretty clear the cause is the
motor/wiring there, not the rest of the wiring altho again it's the
total so a little here, a little there, it all adds up...but that both
circuits cause it pretty much rules them out.

--

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4 minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line (non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.

Thanks for all the responses, especially since it was only marginally a WW topic. I love this group.


Bill Leonhardt
__________________________________________________ __________________
On Monday, October 14, 2013 7:50:23 PM UTC-4, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.



This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.



The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.



The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.



I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.



Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.



Thanks,



Bill Leonhardt

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4 minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line (non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

To those "in the know". If there is "leakage" like this, does it mean
that their might be risk of shock to the user or fire (from
overheating?). Just curious.
I've already picked up a new question I've saving for I look at used
equipment for sale: "Yes, But will it run on a GFCI-protected circuit?" : )






I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.

Thanks for all the responses, especially since it was only marginally a WW topic. I love this group.


Bill Leonhardt
__________________________________________________ __________________
On Monday, October 14, 2013 7:50:23 PM UTC-4, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
In my shop I have two general purpose electrical circuits that I connect everything to except the big machines. They are 20 amp (120VAC)circuits with 12 gauge wire. Each circuit starts with a GFCI outlet and then a chain of normal outlets. All outlets are 20 amp.



On one circuit I have my Yorkcraft 6" jointer plugged in. I've had this a few years. It's been lightly used with no prior problems.



This evening I was jointing a piece of 1 x 6 maple set to take off less that 1/64 per pass. After a bit, the GFI would pop. Thinking this might be the GFCI outlet, I connected the jointer to the second circuit. Same problem. The only other piece of equipment running was the DC which is on a separate 240VAC circuit.



The circuit breaker (20 amp)never pops. The GFCI outlet is maybe 6' from the panel and the second outlet (jointer) is about 8-10' from that.



The jointer has a 1 hp motor (running at 120VAC)and, when I pulled the cover off, the motor was barely warm. No dust buildup either since I have this connected to my DC.



I have done a baby crib's worth of (soft)maple and 2 large bookcase's worth of cherry without incident. The piece I was working on was a piece of the leftover maple.



Any thought why this would cause the GFCI to pop and not the circuit breaker? Also, what would I look for with respect to the cause. I bought the jointer new 8 or 9 years ago and it has been lightly used.



Thanks,



Bill Leonhardt

On 10/15/2013 7:38 PM, Bill wrote:
....

To those "in the know". If there is "leakage" like this, does it mean
that their might be risk of shock to the user or fire (from
overheating?). Just curious.
....

Theoretically (that's why the GFCI limit is set so low), yes, 4-5 mA
directly across the heart region is enough to be fatal. But, to get
that means you've got be be holding onto the side that is hot with one
hand and have the other on a solid ground so the path is through you and
the entire leakage current of that magnitude is through you.

So possible, yes; at all likely really not, especially in absence of
water or other way to get a solid ground. For pool equipment, other wet
areas like shavers, etc., around bath sinks, etc., and as I mentioned
before, heaters for livestock waterers and so on where there is a pretty
good chance that you could get the ground they've a purpose but for the
general shop area as a general rule they're really overdoing it imo.

It is not an overcurrent protection issue at all; that's what the
regular circuit breaker is for.

--

On 10/15/2013 6:48 PM, Bill Leonhardt wrote:

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

That should have been your very first troubleshooting act, more than
likely saving you a good deal of time, money and typing.

If it doesn't solve the problem, then it isolates the problem to
somewhere from the plug, to the motor on the tool itself.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.

Think no further.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew

On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 20:38:35 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Bill Leonhardt wrote:
OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4 minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line (non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

To those "in the know". If there is "leakage" like this, does it mean
that their might be risk of shock to the user or fire (from
overheating?). Just curious.

Highly unlikely, though possible. Older GFCIs weren't very good at
rejecting stray (capacitive or inductive) current paths. The
possibility of false trips with these is high. This is why there were
exceptions in the NEC for refrigerators/freezers. Replace the GFCI and
see if your problem goes away. If it does, then you had nothing to
worry about. ;-)

I've already picked up a new question I've saving for I look at used
equipment for sale: "Yes, But will it run on a GFCI-protected circuit?" : )

With a new GFCI, there should be fewer problems. ...and those are
serious.

snips


At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC.
He said that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or work,
the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI.
I guess all I have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.




..... hang a picture on the wall & call it "finished " !
Also - I'd check with a real life electrician or Inspector
before asking an electrical engineer ..
John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew




--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.



OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew

On 10/16/2013 06:19 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.



OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew





You only need one GFCI up stream from the rest of the outlets - just
like a GFCI breaker for the entire circuit. No need for GFCIs on each
outlet.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 10/16/2013 06:19 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.



OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew





You only need one GFCI up stream from the rest of the outlets - just
like a GFCI breaker for the entire circuit. No need for GFCIs on each
outlet.


Good point. Thanks!

On 10/16/2013 9:19 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.


Each ckt must have one,I have about 10 ckts thats 10 breakers.
Would rather use the outlet type, cheap enough to replace.


OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew







--
Jeff

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 21:37:12 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 10/16/2013 06:19 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.



OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).

Here's my plan.

1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.

2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.

3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.

I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
----------------------------------------------------------
Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.

If so, problem is solved.

Rewire and move on.

If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.

Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?

Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.

Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.

BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.

Have fun.

Lew





You only need one GFCI up stream from the rest of the outlets - just
like a GFCI breaker for the entire circuit. No need for GFCIs on each
outlet.


Good point. Thanks!

Make sure you get them in the right way 'round. They don't work well
the other way. DAMHIKT. :-(

On Wed, 16 Oct 2013 21:50:45 -0400, woodchucker
wrote:

On 10/16/2013 9:19 PM, Bill wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:

OK this is an update on my issue:

Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.

At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.

Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.

You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.


Each ckt must have one,I have about 10 ckts thats 10 breakers.
Would rather use the outlet type, cheap enough to replace.

They also tend to be closer to where you're working, which shouldn't
be important but too often is. In a previous house, we had one GFCI
breaker for the three bathrooms (and outside outlets). It wasn't very
convenient to have to step out of the shower and walk out onto the
front porch to reset the GFCI.

wrote:


They also tend to be closer to where you're working, which shouldn't
be important but too often is. In a previous house, we had one GFCI
breaker for the three bathrooms (and outside outlets). It wasn't very
convenient to have to step out of the shower and walk out onto the
front porch to reset the GFCI.

Bad visions in my mind...

--

-Mike-