Yet another electrical question on a WW tool
woodchucker wrote:
On 10/16/2013 11:25 AM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Bill Leonhardt" wrote:
OK this is an update on my issue:
Came home from work and tried the jointer again on the original
circuit. (Some times things heal themselves.) Ran for about 4
minutes and popped the GFCI. Tried a third GFCI circuit and it popped
right away.
At work today I called an EE and asked him about the NEC. He said
that the code said that in an un-finished basement used for storage or
work, the outlets needed to be protected by a GFCI. I guess all I
have to do is finish the basement and I won't need no stinkin' GFCI.
Not true. A finished basement needs gfci too. I had put them in, and
when inspected we talked about them, they had to be on each ckt.
You can also buy a GFCI circuit breaker for about $90, or so--which may
outweigh installing multiple GFCI duplex outlets--your call.
It would depend on how many you have, I guess.
OK, back to the problem. Connected the jointer to a non GFCI circuit
and it ran OK for about 10-15 minutes (no load).
Here's my plan.
1. I'm gonna pull the motor out although it's a real pain to get to
because I really want to check carefully for dust build-up. Also, I
want to see if 220VAC is a possibility.
2. I'm gonna get a brand new, 20A GFCI outlet for that circuit.
3. If the trouble persists, I'm gonna run a dedicated 20A line
(non-GFCI) to the jointer and get on with my life.
I may skip step 2. Got to think on it more.
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Based on the above, the first thing I would do is verify whether motor
can be wired for 240V.
If so, problem is solved.
Rewire and move on.
If not, then assuming you don't already have one, get a 50 ft, 10-3
molded cord set and use it to plug jointer into non GFCI receptacle
and get on with life.
Why a 10-3 rather than a less expensive 12-3?
Less voltage drop at the motor terminals.
Last choice would be to replace GFCI receptacle.
BTW, a coat of paint on the walls could be called "Finished" in some
parts of the country.
Have fun.
Lew
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