For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than 95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary price of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)

On 10/9/2013 5:45 PM, Leon wrote:
For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than 95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary price of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)


I think you have some glue under the top handscrew... Go wipe it off
before it dries... Oh please don't thank me for the help :-)




--
Jeff

On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps.

Not as clever as your solution, but I purchased a pair of these K body
clamp extenders from Lee Valley Tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=60466

On 10/9/2013 5:45 PM, Leon wrote:
For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet
long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than
95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary price
of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end
and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively
square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)

Are you sure you are using enough clamps there Leon? LOL

That will do the trick!

That's pretty cool, Leon. I had a similar issue a few projects back and needed a couple of 70" long clamps. I screwed a cleat into one end of a two-by and drilled a 3/4" hole at the appropriate spot at the other end, into which i inserted one of those handy adjustable LN bench dogs. Worked like magic.

Larry


On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 7:47:01 PM UTC-5, Lee Michaels wrote:
On 10/9/2013 5:45 PM, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet

long.

I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long

plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket

hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that

you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps

that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than

95".



A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary price

of

plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from

slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end

and

reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively

square

alignment.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/



Hollar if something is unclear. :-)



Are you sure you are using enough clamps there Leon? LOL



That will do the trick!

On 10/9/2013 7:47 PM, Lee Michaels wrote:


On 10/9/2013 5:45 PM, Leon wrote:
For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet
long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use
pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using
clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than
95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary
price of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it
from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw
end and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively
square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)

Are you sure you are using enough clamps there Leon? LOL

No! But there was no more room. LOL

On 10/9/2013 7:22 PM, woodchucker wrote:
On 10/9/2013 5:45 PM, Leon wrote:
For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet
long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than
95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary
price of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end
and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively
square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)


I think you have some glue under the top handscrew... Go wipe it off
before it dries... Oh please don't thank me for the help :-)




It's still there but I have a really good sand paper that removes it
instantly.

On 10/9/2013 9:43 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
That's pretty cool, Leon. I had a similar issue a few projects back and needed a couple of 70" long clamps. I screwed a cleat into one end of a two-by and drilled a 3/4" hole at the appropriate spot at the other end, into which i inserted one of those handy adjustable LN bench dogs. Worked like magic.

Larry



Cool! I was thinking of doing similar but did not think of using a dog,
it was all about keeping all of the force going parallel to thr panel

On 10/9/2013 7:41 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps.

Not as clever as your solution, but I purchased a pair of these K body
clamp extenders from Lee Valley Tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=60466



I have those too but still not long enough, my long Bessey clamps are 40".

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 10/9/2013 7:41 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet
long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps.

Not as clever as your solution, but I purchased a pair of these K body
clamp extenders from Lee Valley Tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=60466



I have those too but still not long enough, my long Bessey clamps are 40".


Leon
You get 2 LV extenders and a length of proper sized bar stock. problem
solved. WW

On 10/9/2013 8:41 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps.

Not as clever as your solution, but I purchased a pair of these K body
clamp extenders from Lee Valley Tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=60466

As an occasional weekend blunderer, I have a motley assortment of
clamps. I bought a special "clamp extender" for a buck or two at Home
Depot a couple of years ago. The more observant among you should be able
to find it in this photo:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/6233524305/

They are still available. Just look in the Plumbing Dept. And yes, I
have since learned that there were a number of more standard ways I
might have accomplished this task.

On 10/10/13 10:13 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/6233524305/

They are still available. Just look in the Plumbing Dept. And yes, I
have since learned that there were a number of more standard ways I
might have accomplished this task.


What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 10:58:13 -0500, -MIKE-
What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?

Clamps tend to bow depending on their tightness. I'd think that a
regular pipe coupler would be the weak point and the first part to
break when used to join pipe clamps.

On 10/10/2013 11:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/10/13 10:13 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/6233524305/

They are still available. Just look in the Plumbing Dept. And yes, I
have since learned that there were a number of more standard ways I
might have accomplished this task.


What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?


Poorly phrased on my part. The coupler worked fine. It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop without using
seven-foot long clamps.

On 10/10/13 11:08 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 10:58:13 -0500, -MIKE-
What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?

Clamps tend to bow depending on their tightness. I'd think that a
regular pipe coupler would be the weak point and the first part to
break when used to join pipe clamps.


BREAK!? LMAO!

If you're getting close to breaking a steel pipe coupler by using it in
a pipe clamp, I would submit...
A. you're using a bulldozer to plant flowers.
B. you can't turn the clamps hard enough with your hands to break it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 11:38:53 -0500, -MIKE-
BREAK!? LMAO!

If you're getting close to breaking a steel pipe coupler by using it in
a pipe clamp, I would submit...
A. you're using a bulldozer to plant flowers.
B. you can't turn the clamps hard enough with your hands to break it.

Actually, I had cast iron pipe in mind when I posted.

On 10/10/13 12:04 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 11:38:53 -0500, -MIKE-
BREAK!? LMAO!

If you're getting close to breaking a steel pipe coupler by using it in
a pipe clamp, I would submit...
A. you're using a bulldozer to plant flowers.
B. you can't turn the clamps hard enough with your hands to break it.

Actually, I had cast iron pipe in mind when I posted.


Wouldn't have changed my post one bit.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/



Hollar if something is unclear. :-)

Yep, clamping cauls of a sort. Clamping to clamps is quite often useful. Also, in my opinion preferable to a long clamp. I think you get better control than trying to control the clamp face flex over a 6 foot clamp, bowing the material, etc.

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 13:09:52 -0500, -MIKE-
Actually, I had cast iron pipe in mind when I posted.
Wouldn't have changed my post one bit.

You're entitled to your opinion.

On 10/10/13 11:26 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/10/2013 11:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/10/13 10:13 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/6233524305/

They are still available. Just look in the Plumbing Dept. And yes, I
have since learned that there were a number of more standard ways I
might have accomplished this task.


What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?


Poorly phrased on my part. The coupler worked fine. It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop without using
seven-foot long clamps.

Understood. There are many ways and yours is one of them.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Greg Guarino wrote in news:l36kfe$var$1@dont-
email.me:

Poorly phrased on my part. The coupler worked fine. It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop without using
seven-foot long clamps.

"A couple of brads until the glue dries."

I don't think Norm ever pulled them out...

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

On 10/10/2013 2:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop without using
seven-foot long clamps.

"A couple of brads until the glue dries."

I did that for some shelf edging years back; finish nails set and
filled. Even at my modest level of woodworking, I wasn't that happy with
the inconspicuous (but visible) marks it left. I was thinking of pocket
screws. And I have discovered wedges since then as well.

Someone here said that since I used dowels I didn't really need clamps
at all. I don't know if that's true or not, but I wouldn't have the
confidence to try it.

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 14:55:07 -0400, Greg Guarino
I did that for some shelf edging years back; finish nails set and
filled. Even at my modest level of woodworking, I wasn't that happy with
the inconspicuous (but visible) marks it left. I was thinking of pocket
screws. And I have discovered wedges since then as well.

Was the edging painted or finished with something else? If you can
feel the marks, (eg painted edging) then you may not have sanded them
down properly. If you can just see the marks, but not feel them (eg
varnish) then you might not have filled the nail holes properly.

On 10/10/13 1:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/10/2013 2:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop
without
using
seven-foot long clamps.

"A couple of brads until the glue dries."

I did that for some shelf edging years back; finish nails set and
filled. Even at my modest level of woodworking, I wasn't that happy
with the inconspicuous (but visible) marks it left. I was thinking of
pocket screws. And I have discovered wedges since then as well.

Someone here said that since I used dowels I didn't really need
clamps at all. I don't know if that's true or not, but I wouldn't
have the confidence to try it.


With pocket screws, you don't need glue.

When I don't have enough clamps, I've used pocket screws as clamps to
hold thicker-than-usual solid wood edge banding, then taken the screws
out.
Technically, I could've used only the screws, but in this case, I was
using hidden hinges and shelf holes and some other attachments and
didn't want to risk finding a screw when drilling for those things.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/10/13 2:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 14:55:07 -0400, Greg Guarino
I did that for some shelf edging years back; finish nails set and
filled. Even at my modest level of woodworking, I wasn't that happy with
the inconspicuous (but visible) marks it left. I was thinking of pocket
screws. And I have discovered wedges since then as well.

Was the edging painted or finished with something else? If you can
feel the marks, (eg painted edging) then you may not have sanded them
down properly. If you can just see the marks, but not feel them (eg
varnish) then you might not have filled the nail holes properly.


Even with proper filling & sanding and immaculate painting the filled
holes can show up after a season of expansion and contraction.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 14:29:10 -0500, -MIKE-
Even with proper filling & sanding and immaculate painting the filled
holes can show up after a season of expansion and contraction.

Feel like arguing today eh Mike? Ok.

IF those set and filled nail hoes are not filled properly. I use wax
filler sticks that do not show your expansion and contraction as you
might have experienced. They come in various colours to suit your
application. I use a colour just a little darker than what my stain or
finish might be.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42997

And, you should also know that I'm in Canada with summer and winter
where expansion and contraction is a regular occurrence.

On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps. One way is to use pocket
hole screws to replace clamps, but then you end up with those holes that
you might have to deal with. Today I perfected my method of using clamps
that are less than 12" long to replace the need of clamps longer than 95".

A picture is worth 1000 words. I will say that the top temporary price of
plywood has PSA sand paper attached on the bottom side to prevent it from
slipping. If you have k-body style clamps remove the handle screw end and
reverse it's orientation on the bar so that you can get a relatively square
alignment.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

Hollar if something is unclear. :-)

Great idea I was thinking face frame clamps but that is a simple
solution.

Mike M

On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

I see your link has you showing the new style of Bessey's. Do you have
any of the old style to compare them to? Have you seen any great
benefit to the new style over the old ones? I've got the old style and
haven't bought any new ones.

Yes, I've seen the adverts, but I'd rather hear a practical opinion
from a real user.

On 10/10/13 2:42 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 14:29:10 -0500, -MIKE-
Even with proper filling & sanding and immaculate painting the filled
holes can show up after a season of expansion and contraction.

Feel like arguing today eh Mike? Ok.


Feeling passive aggressive?
First of all, in this reply, I'm simply providing facts based on
experience and knowledge gained from my 30yrs of woodworking. I
*thought* that was the intended purpose of this newsgroup-on-life-support.
Any arguing is inferred on your part, perhaps due to my previous
reply.... which leads to my second point.

Your first reply about breaking a pipe coupler when used as a wood clamp
was so ridiculously absurd that I felt it was worthy of a very sarcastic
retort. One of the problems in usenet is anyone can come in and make
ridiculous claims (dust collector explosion, etc.) and people can read
them and believe it. This is one reason I don't mind loudly calling
"BULL****" on these grossly exaggerated claims in the albeit naive hope
that I can stop them before they become the mythical wives tales of
tomorrow.


IF those set and filled nail hoes are not filled properly. I use wax
filler sticks that do not show your expansion and contraction as you
might have experienced. They come in various colours to suit your
application. I use a colour just a little darker than what my stain or
finish might be.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42997

And, you should also know that I'm in Canada with summer and winter
where expansion and contraction is a regular occurrence.


Depends on the wood, the finish, etc, etc, etc.
If you bothered to read my reply instead of getting all offended, you'd
see I explicitly referred to painted surfaces, not stain.
You asked the question, "Was the edging painted or finished with
something else?" I was offering my advice for paint. I have yet to find
a paint that sticks to wax.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 15:32:59 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Well, you see Mike, it doesn't help too much to start off with an
insult. It's you who appears to be trying to exacerbate this
discussion into full blown argument.

Any arguing is inferred on your part, perhaps due to my previous
reply.... which leads to my second point.

You see, you keep telling me things that I've experienced and that I
must be mistaken. I tell you what I'VE experienced and you keep
telling me I'm wrong, just like the style bit that powered down on me.
You weren't there so there's not much you can say to refute my
experience. And you wonder about arguing? I suggest you have a good
hare look in the mirror.

them and believe it. This is one reason I don't mind loudly calling
"BULL****" on these grossly exaggerated claims in the albeit naive hope
that I can stop them before they become the mythical wives tales of
tomorrow.

Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.

Depends on the wood, the finish, etc, etc, etc.
If you bothered to read my reply instead of getting all offended, you'd
see I explicitly referred to painted surfaces, not stain.

And you chose to ignore the full intent of the question when I asked
him how the counter sunk nails were finished.

You asked the question, "Was the edging painted or finished with
something else?" I was offering my advice for paint. I have yet to find
a paint that sticks to wax.

And even there, you appear to be ill experienced. Yes, painted
surfaces can experience the problems you mentioned. But, that takes
time. I've filled nail holes (yes with my wax sticks) and they HAVE
taken paint very well. Well, enough in fact that it's been a number of
years on several projects and the counter sunk nails have not shown
themselves. ~ a number of years that were not indicated by the
original poster.

On 10/10/2013 9:33 AM, WW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 10/9/2013 7:41 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:

For the third time this year I have needed 2~3 clamps that are 8 feet
long.
I have been perfecting a method of clamping rails to the ends of long
plywood panels without the need of long clamps.

Not as clever as your solution, but I purchased a pair of these K body
clamp extenders from Lee Valley Tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping...s.aspx?p=60466



I have those too but still not long enough, my long Bessey clamps are 40".


Leon
You get 2 LV extenders and a length of proper sized bar stock. problem
solved. WW


Hummmmmmm!

On 10/10/2013 11:26 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On 10/10/2013 11:58 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/10/13 10:13 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gdguarino/6233524305/

They are still available. Just look in the Plumbing Dept. And yes, I
have since learned that there were a number of more standard ways I
might have accomplished this task.


What could be more "standard" to connect two pieces of pipe than a pipe
coupler?


Poorly phrased on my part. The coupler worked fine. It's just that there
are apparently ways to glue a hardwood edge onto a desktop without using
seven-foot long clamps.


I used the pope clamp couplers for years and in a pinch still do, but I
don't have enough pipe to get the 24 feet that I needed.

On 10/10/13 4:01 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 15:32:59 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Well, you see Mike, it doesn't help too much to start off with an
insult. It's you who appears to be trying to exacerbate this
discussion into full blown argument.

Any arguing is inferred on your part, perhaps due to my previous
reply.... which leads to my second point.

You see, you keep telling me things that I've experienced and that I
must be mistaken. I tell you what I'VE experienced and you keep
telling me I'm wrong, just like the style bit that powered down on me.
You weren't there so there's not much you can say to refute my
experience. And you wonder about arguing? I suggest you have a good
hare look in the mirror.


So you're going back to some previous discussion from weeks ago?
Ok, passive aggressive it is.


Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.


Oh ok, now they're rusty. Care to add any more weak specifications to
your bull**** claim that pipe couples can break when used as extenders
for wood clamps? What's next, they're PVC instead of metal?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/10/2013 3:16 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 09 Oct 2013 16:45:43 -0500, Leon wrote:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/10176896066/

I see your link has you showing the new style of Bessey's. Do you have
any of the old style to compare them to? Have you seen any great
benefit to the new style over the old ones? I've got the old style and
haven't bought any new ones.

Yes, I've seen the adverts, but I'd rather hear a practical opinion
from a real user.



I have used the old style Besseys, I have always preferred my Jorgensen
Cabinet Masters. My latest purchases have been the Revo Bessey's.

Currently in the K-body style clamps I have 10 Cabinet Masters with 10+
years of use, 7 Bessey clamps with about 4 years use, and 2 Jet clamps
with about 8 years use.


When the smoke clears I still prefer the Cabinet Masters for my money.

The new Besseys IMHO are smoother functioning than the older style, not
as crotchety. But still not as easy to use as the Cabinet Masters. The
Bessey clamps are now comparable to the Cabinet Masters in terms of the
size of the clamping surface. I am careful not to let glue drip on the
bars as I have heard that Bessey K bodies don't work well or as smoothly
with a contaminated bar. This for me has never been an issue with the
Cabinet Masters and I got a lot of glue on the bars before I learned
that it could be a issue with the Bessey clamps. The Bessey clamps are
not as tough as the Cabinet Masters. I don't like to admit this but I
on several occasions have dropped my clamps on a concrete floor.
Plastic chips break off of the Bessey clamps, I have not noticed any
thing damaged on the Cabinet Master housings. The moveable foot on the
Cabinet Masters is terrific if you are using clamps that are longer than
your work surface. The feet on the Bessey's are not adjustable and
useless on a smaller work surface.

The Jets look good on paper. In real use, by comparison to the Cabinet
Masters and the Besseys, are considerably more difficult to get a good
feel for how tight you are clamping. The clamp screw mechanism is
simply not as smooth as the other two brand clamps. And almost with out
fail the Jet clamps leave indentations on the stock, no they are not
being over tightened compared to the other two brands of clamps, the
plastic clamping surface is harder.

My experience is that the Cabinet Masters are built to take abuse and
still perform as expected. The Besseys need to be a bit pampered, the
Jets, for me, were a purchasing mistake, they are my last go to clamp in
my collection.

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 00:14:35 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
My experience is that the Cabinet Masters are built to take abuse and
still perform as expected. The Besseys need to be a bit pampered, the
Jets, for me, were a purchasing mistake, they are my last go to clamp in
my collection.

Thanks for the review. The main reason I asked is that I was
considering the purchase of some new bar clamps. The new Bessey's put
me off for some reason and I was looking for an excuse to sway me one
way or another. You've done that. Lee Valley Tools has discontinued
offering the Cabinet Masters for some reason, so I guess I'll have to
find them somewhere else.

On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 23:56:16 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Another insult.

So you're going back to some previous discussion from weeks ago?
Ok, passive aggressive it is.

No, just that there has to be a limit to all this 'discussion'. You'd
have me launch into an increased assault of cursing and swearing.
It's a waste of time in this case and accomplishes nothing.

Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.

Oh ok, now they're rusty. Care to add any more weak specifications to
your bull**** claim that pipe couples can break when used as extenders
for wood clamps? What's next, they're PVC instead of metal?

Please show me exactly where I said "they're rusty". I used the word
"or" not "and". I'd suggest you go buy yourself a decent pair of
reading glasses, but you're reading what you want to see, not what is
actually written.

Cast iron falls into the class of brittle materials. My assertion that
cast iron can break or crack is valid and there's no proof printed or
otherwise that you can produce to refute that. Your insistence
otherwise only makes you look bad.

However, it looks like you've decided to use that as a reason to come
after me again.

Ok, you've won this argument, I'm finished.

On 10/11/2013 4:44 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 00:14:35 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
My experience is that the Cabinet Masters are built to take abuse and
still perform as expected. The Besseys need to be a bit pampered, the
Jets, for me, were a purchasing mistake, they are my last go to clamp in
my collection.

Thanks for the review. The main reason I asked is that I was
considering the purchase of some new bar clamps. The new Bessey's put
me off for some reason and I was looking for an excuse to sway me one
way or another. You've done that. Lee Valley Tools has discontinued
offering the Cabinet Masters for some reason, so I guess I'll have to
find them somewhere else.



Actually if you look at the picture that I posted again the front Bessy
has a chipped out spot on the right side plastic.

Anyway, you can some times find deals on the Cabinet Masters direct,

http://www.ponytools.com/index.php/jorgensen/bar-clamps


I have also deals, on occasion, on Amazon for sets of 4 clamps.


One last note. Although it is unlikely that you will find the original
older Cabinet Master clamps you should be aware that the internal metal
parts on the screw handle end were made out of aluminum. Almost with
out fail all of these have failed, the aluminum broke. BUT not to worry
Jorgensen through the Adjustable Clamp Company cheerfully replaced the
handle parts of the clamps immediately. They ship you the replacement
newer design, iron, screw handle assemblies for free. Typically the old
style aluminum ones were silver and the newer iron ones are painted black.

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 09:31:07 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have also deals, on occasion, on Amazon for sets of 4 clamps.

Yeah, amazon.com does carry them. amazon.ca (Canadian) does not carry
the Cabinetmaster clamps. Guess we're too backward up here. I'll have
to search them out locally somewhere else.

On 10/11/13 4:49 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 23:56:16 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Another insult.

So you're going back to some previous discussion from weeks ago?
Ok, passive aggressive it is.

No, just that there has to be a limit to all this 'discussion'. You'd
have me launch into an increased assault of cursing and swearing.
It's a waste of time in this case and accomplishes nothing.

Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.

Oh ok, now they're rusty. Care to add any more weak specifications to
your bull**** claim that pipe couples can break when used as extenders
for wood clamps? What's next, they're PVC instead of metal?

Please show me exactly where I said "they're rusty". I used the word
"or" not "and". I'd suggest you go buy yourself a decent pair of
reading glasses, but you're reading what you want to see, not what is
actually written.

Cast iron falls into the class of brittle materials. My assertion that
cast iron can break or crack is valid and there's no proof printed or
otherwise that you can produce to refute that. Your insistence
otherwise only makes you look bad.

However, it looks like you've decided to use that as a reason to come
after me again.

Ok, you've won this argument, I'm finished.


The bottom line is you made the absurd claim, "I'd think that a regular
pipe coupler would be the weak point and the first part to break when
used to join pipe clamps."

If you're using enough force to break a pipe coupler when used as a wood
clamp, you're using way, way, way too much pressure and you'd end up
smashing the wood you're trying to clamp before breaking the coupler.

Instead of just admitting it was ridiculous, you kept arguing and
changing the subject and adding new variables to the equation to try to
back it up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/10/2013 3:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 14:55:07 -0400, Greg Guarino
I did that for some shelf edging years back; finish nails set and
filled. Even at my modest level of woodworking, I wasn't that happy with
the inconspicuous (but visible) marks it left. I was thinking of pocket
screws. And I have discovered wedges since then as well.

Was the edging painted or finished with something else? If you can
feel the marks, (eg painted edging) then you may not have sanded them
down properly. If you can just see the marks, but not feel them (eg
varnish) then you might not have filled the nail holes properly.

I filled the holes with one of those "colored pencil" fill sticks and
finished the wood with ... something. (it was years ago). The marks -
an imperfect color match, I guess - really aren't conspicuous, but I had
decided to try for a (little) higher level of craftsmanship when I made
the desk. Thus, no holes, except for the dowels, which I think were a
nice decorative touch in addition to their mechanical function.