On 10/11/2013 10:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/11/13 4:49 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 23:56:16 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Another insult.

So you're going back to some previous discussion from weeks ago?
Ok, passive aggressive it is.

No, just that there has to be a limit to all this 'discussion'. You'd
have me launch into an increased assault of cursing and swearing.
It's a waste of time in this case and accomplishes nothing.

Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.

Oh ok, now they're rusty. Care to add any more weak specifications to
your bull**** claim that pipe couples can break when used as extenders
for wood clamps? What's next, they're PVC instead of metal?

Please show me exactly where I said "they're rusty". I used the word
"or" not "and". I'd suggest you go buy yourself a decent pair of
reading glasses, but you're reading what you want to see, not what is
actually written.

Cast iron falls into the class of brittle materials. My assertion that
cast iron can break or crack is valid and there's no proof printed or
otherwise that you can produce to refute that. Your insistence
otherwise only makes you look bad.

However, it looks like you've decided to use that as a reason to come
after me again.

Ok, you've won this argument, I'm finished.


The bottom line is you made the absurd claim, "I'd think that a regular
pipe coupler would be the weak point and the first part to break when
used to join pipe clamps."

If you're using enough force to break a pipe coupler when used as a wood
clamp, you're using way, way, way too much pressure and you'd end up
smashing the wood you're trying to clamp before breaking the coupler.

Instead of just admitting it was ridiculous, you kept arguing and
changing the subject and adding new variables to the equation to try to
back it up.




I don't think that there is any way in the world that a pipe coupler
would break when using the pipes as pipe clamps. I have use this method
to make short clamps longer during my pipe clamp days and there was
never a reason to fear a break.

On 10/11/13 1:15 PM, Leon wrote:
On 10/11/2013 10:53 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 10/11/13 4:49 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Oct 2013 23:56:16 -0500, -MIKE-
Feeling passive aggressive?

Another insult.

So you're going back to some previous discussion from weeks ago?
Ok, passive aggressive it is.

No, just that there has to be a limit to all this 'discussion'. You'd
have me launch into an increased assault of cursing and swearing.
It's a waste of time in this case and accomplishes nothing.

Cast iron can rust or crack and fail in a number of ways. Your
insinuation that it's "BULL****" is outright "CRAP" and you don't know
what you're talking about.

Oh ok, now they're rusty. Care to add any more weak specifications to
your bull**** claim that pipe couples can break when used as extenders
for wood clamps? What's next, they're PVC instead of metal?

Please show me exactly where I said "they're rusty". I used the word
"or" not "and". I'd suggest you go buy yourself a decent pair of
reading glasses, but you're reading what you want to see, not what is
actually written.

Cast iron falls into the class of brittle materials. My assertion that
cast iron can break or crack is valid and there's no proof printed or
otherwise that you can produce to refute that. Your insistence
otherwise only makes you look bad.

However, it looks like you've decided to use that as a reason to come
after me again.

Ok, you've won this argument, I'm finished.


The bottom line is you made the absurd claim, "I'd think that a regular
pipe coupler would be the weak point and the first part to break when
used to join pipe clamps."

If you're using enough force to break a pipe coupler when used as a wood
clamp, you're using way, way, way too much pressure and you'd end up
smashing the wood you're trying to clamp before breaking the coupler.

Instead of just admitting it was ridiculous, you kept arguing and
changing the subject and adding new variables to the equation to try to
back it up.




I don't think that there is any way in the world that a pipe coupler
would break when using the pipes as pipe clamps. I have use this method
to make short clamps longer during my pipe clamp days and there was
never a reason to fear a break.


I would speculate that PVC coupler would be plenty strong for this
purpose.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/11/2013 4:44 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 00:14:35 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
My experience is that the Cabinet Masters are built to take abuse and
still perform as expected. The Besseys need to be a bit pampered, the
Jets, for me, were a purchasing mistake, they are my last go to clamp in
my collection.

Thanks for the review. The main reason I asked is that I was
considering the purchase of some new bar clamps. The new Bessey's put
me off for some reason and I was looking for an excuse to sway me one
way or another. You've done that. Lee Valley Tools has discontinued
offering the Cabinet Masters for some reason, so I guess I'll have to
find them somewhere else.

See my post about the Groz clamp deal at Woodcraft. A good cheap way to
augment your existing K-body collection without switching to a completely new
style of clamp. I have a bunch of the older K-body clamps, and these are
virtually identical.

That said, I agree with what Leon said. I don't own any Cabinet Masters, but I
have inspected them closely and I do like how they use a smooth bar design
rather than the serrated bars used by all other manufacturers. It is easy to
get glue build-up on your bar clamps, and it's a pain in the ass to remove it
from those serrated bars. The Cabinet Masters use very smooth chrome plated
bars, and it seems like glue build-up would come right off.

I also agree with Leon's assessment of the Jet clamps. I have four, and I
don't like 'em. The ONLY thing I like about those clamps is the "trigger" that
keeps the jaws from sliding around on the bar unless it's released. This can
actually be very handy in those times when you "only" have two hands.

I also have some of newer Bessey K-Body REVO clamps, and these are my favorite
(keeping in mind that I don't have any Cabinet Masters to compare them to). As
Leon said, they are much smoother than the older K-Bodies, with a larger
clamping surface (which can actually be a downside in some circumstances; I
have a bunch of lamination forms that would have to be modified to accommodate
the larger heads on the REVOs). The rubber (instead of wood) handles are also
MUCH easier to grip, and that combined with what appears to be better "gearing"
on the leadscrew threads allows for much more clamping force, and much easier
release when it comes time to remove the clamping pressure. I really like
these clamps, but DAMN are they expensive!

ALSO (again), I have a set of Bessey K-Body REVO Juniors, which are pretty
handy for light-duty stuff. The head size is about the same as the old Bessey
K-Bodies, but the bar is lighter-duty, and the leadscrew is much smaller so you
have less tightening force. They also have rather small wooden (instead of
rubber) handles which I don't much like, and for some reason the jaws are
designed to be not quite parallel until you apply some considerable clamping
force. It's like they recognized that the clamps have some flex due to the
light-duty bar, so they built some "acquired" parallelism into the design of
the heads. Still, pretty handy little clamps for some things, and not nearly
as expensive as their big brothers.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 15:23:56 -0500, Steve Turner
See my post about the Groz clamp deal at Woodcraft. A good cheap way to
augment your existing K-body collection without switching to a completely new
style of clamp. I have a bunch of the older K-body clamps, and these are
virtually identical.

Are you referring to the Groz Parallel Clamp Set? Part of the problem
is that Woodcraft is in the US. I live in Canada. Between shipping,
exchange and duties, I'd get dinged a significant amount. Still, it's
something to consider.

On 10/12/2013 6:24 AM, wrote:
On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 15:23:56 -0500, Steve Turner
See my post about the Groz clamp deal at Woodcraft. A good cheap way to
augment your existing K-body collection without switching to a completely new
style of clamp. I have a bunch of the older K-body clamps, and these are
virtually identical.

Are you referring to the Groz Parallel Clamp Set?

Yes:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...10%2F03%2F2013

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 13:15:09 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I don't think that there is any way in the world that a pipe coupler
would break when using the pipes as pipe clamps. I have use this method
to make short clamps longer during my pipe clamp days and there was
never a reason to fear a break.

Your opinion is one I respect.