Over the long weekend I primed the inside of the shop,
two coats of PVA primer/sealer that had been tinted white.

This caused a stir at Lowes, apparently no one had ever requested
the already white primer be tinted white, basically they humored
me to get me out the door.

After two coats of primer (25 gallons) blocks are sealed and
no color bleed through anywhere, something of an achievement
when painting block walls.

Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.

Considerations on applying in high humidity? Humidity is in the 90's
and will remain so until mid-September.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,
even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much
wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?

Everything will be rolled and brushed

basilisk

basilisk wrote:


Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.


There is some kind of paint that is commonly used in restrooms in commercial
buildings where the walls are often block. I don't know what the stuff is
but it goes on like a plastic coating and completely seals the pores in the
block - smooth. It's usually gloss as well. Don't have any idea what the
stuff is, and I've never seen it anywhere, but if I were painting block, I'd
sure try my best to find out what it is and get that stuff. Maybe the
painters in the group know about the stuff and can chime in.


--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
basilisk wrote:


Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.


There is some kind of paint that is commonly used in restrooms in
commercial buildings where the walls are often block. I don't know what
the stuff is but it goes on like a plastic coating and completely seals
the pores in the block - smooth. It's usually gloss as well. Don't have
any idea what the stuff is, and I've never seen it anywhere, but if I were
painting block, I'd sure try my best to find out what it is and get that
stuff. Maybe the painters in the group know about the stuff and can chime
in.

Sometimes you can find many specialty paints listed in the paint
manufacture's website, often in the commercial/industrial area of the site
rather than the home painting area. Or sometimes they maintain a different
site for commercial/industrial coatings. You won't find it in the big box
stores but can often be ordered through the dedicated paint supply
store/outlet/distributor.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,

even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much

wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?



Everything will be rolled and brushed

I am not a pro painter but do a lot of painting on my rentals. Once you have that primer in place you can use pretty much anything. I just primed out a freshly sheetrocked and textured walk in closet using Lowes PVA primer this last weekend. I wish I had though to tint it because it looks great but is kind of grayish. I would have left it if it was white enough.

I would just use Valspar or Olympic laytex if you are buying from Lowes. You could go to exterior if yo want it to be a bit tougher but it will stink inside until it gasses off all the ammonia or whatever that smell is. Also, semi-gloss is as much as you will want to go on a wall system. Gloss just doesn't hold up well on large areas for some reason in my experience. Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell or satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are going for.

On Monday, July 8, 2013 10:46:29 AM UTC-5, EXT wrote:


If you find the commercial(?) paint and speak to a pro rep, ask if the paint is compatible with your applied primer, just to make sure. I would suppose there's no problem with your primer, though.

Sonny

On Mon, 8 Jul 2013 09:41:52 -0700 (PDT), Sonny wrote:

On Monday, July 8, 2013 10:46:29 AM UTC-5, EXT wrote:


If you find the commercial(?) paint and speak to a pro rep, ask if the paint is compatible with your applied primer, just to make sure. I would suppose there's no problem with your primer, though.

Sonny

Primer is supposed to be good with any top coat, but I will ask.
Looking at Sherwin-Williams website ProMar 200 looks like it
would be good, maybe the best they have in conventional paints,
staying away from the epoxys.

The SW store nearest to me was a casulty of the tornado that
hit Tuscaloosa. It reopened just recently.

basilisk

On Mon, 8 Jul 2013 08:57:00 -0500, basilisk
wrote:

Over the long weekend I primed the inside of the shop,
two coats of PVA primer/sealer that had been tinted white.

This caused a stir at Lowes, apparently no one had ever requested
the already white primer be tinted white, basically they humored
me to get me out the door.

After two coats of primer (25 gallons) blocks are sealed and
no color bleed through anywhere, something of an achievement
when painting block walls.

Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.

Considerations on applying in high humidity? Humidity is in the 90's
and will remain so until mid-September.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,
even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much
wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?

Everything will be rolled and brushed

basilisk
I'd stick with a latex on concrete because it can breath better than
an alkyd. Alkyd modified 100% acrylic latex like MooreGlo should work
over your PVA primer. Check with your B-M dealer to be sure.

On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 09:39:02 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,

even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much

wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?



Everything will be rolled and brushed

I am not a pro painter but do a lot of painting on my rentals. Once you
have that primer in place you can use pretty much anything. I just
primed out a freshly sheetrocked and textured walk in closet using Lowes
PVA primer this last weekend. I wish I had though to tint it because it
looks great but is kind of grayish. I would have left it if it was white
enough.

I would just use Valspar or Olympic laytex if you are buying from Lowes.
You could go to exterior if yo want it to be a bit tougher but it will
stink inside until it gasses off all the ammonia or whatever that smell
is. Also, semi-gloss is as much as you will want to go on a wall system.
Gloss just doesn't hold up well on large areas for some reason in my
experience. Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell or
satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are going
for.

cleaning is one reason the other is light reflection, I want and need
it bright. I'll take your word for the durability issue on the gloss,
I have no experience with gloss other than on trim.

basilisk

On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 09:39:02 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,

even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much

wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?



Everything will be rolled and brushed

I am not a pro painter but do a lot of painting on my rentals. Once you
have that primer in place you can use pretty much anything. I just
primed out a freshly sheetrocked and textured walk in closet using Lowes
PVA primer this last weekend. I wish I had though to tint it because it
looks great but is kind of grayish. I would have left it if it was white
enough.

The tinting really does help, even tinting white.
PVA is thin enough to be difficult to brush cleanly, having
it tinted seems to improve the flow, I have no explanation for this
unless it is a property of the pigment vehicle.

basilisk

Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell
or
satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are
going
for.
--------------------------------------------------
"basilisk" wrote:


cleaning is one reason the other is light reflection, I want and
need
it bright. I'll take your word for the durability issue on the
gloss,
I have no experience with gloss other than on trim.

--------------------------------------------------------
White will come back to bite you.

Off white or egg-shell is your friend.

The yacht builders learned that a long time ago.

Both of the above will provide good reflectivity IMHO.

Lew

On Mon, 8 Jul 2013 19:54:53 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell
or
satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are
going
for.
--------------------------------------------------
"basilisk" wrote:


cleaning is one reason the other is light reflection, I want and
need
it bright. I'll take your word for the durability issue on the
gloss,
I have no experience with gloss other than on trim.

--------------------------------------------------------
White will come back to bite you.

Off white or egg-shell is your friend.

The yacht builders learned that a long time ago.

Both of the above will provide good reflectivity IMHO.

Lew


Why will white come back to bite him?? On a yacht it is hard to keep
the finish white due to algae, salt, and other contaminants - but you
still see as many white as any onther colour - and perhaps as many as
all other colours combined, depending on where you are.

Gloss white steel is used in a LOT of shop interiors.

On 7/8/2013 8:57 AM, basilisk wrote:
Over the long weekend I primed the inside of the shop,
two coats of PVA primer/sealer that had been tinted white.

This caused a stir at Lowes, apparently no one had ever requested
the already white primer be tinted white, basically they humored
me to get me out the door.

After two coats of primer (25 gallons) blocks are sealed and
no color bleed through anywhere, something of an achievement
when painting block walls.

Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.

Considerations on applying in high humidity? Humidity is in the 90's
and will remain so until mid-September.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,
even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much
wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?

Everything will be rolled and brushed

basilisk



I used Glidden latex simi satin. Not happy. When I lean a board on the
wall the paint sticks and pulls away and leaves a small cut mark.

Perhaps it was Glidden, perhaps it is the relatively high humidity
conditions.

Anyway Oil based paints tend to dry/cure better regardless of quality.

Latex cures harder with the better quality paints.

I would look for Sherwin Williams/Sears Easy Living Best

On 7/8/2013 10:57 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 8 Jul 2013 19:54:53 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:



Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell
or
satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are
going
for.
--------------------------------------------------
"basilisk" wrote:


cleaning is one reason the other is light reflection, I want and
need
it bright. I'll take your word for the durability issue on the
gloss,
I have no experience with gloss other than on trim.

--------------------------------------------------------
White will come back to bite you.

Off white or egg-shell is your friend.

FWIW I can buy "egg shell" in blue , red, black, orange etc. Egg shell
is typically a degree of gloss. Flat, egg shell, satin, simi-gloss, gloss.



The yacht builders learned that a long time ago.

I would suspect an egg shell texture is less slippery when wet.




Both of the above will provide good reflectivity IMHO.

Lew


Why will white come back to bite him?? On a yacht it is hard to keep
the finish white due to algae, salt, and other contaminants - but you
still see as many white as any onther colour - and perhaps as many as
all other colours combined, depending on where you are.

Gloss white steel is used in a LOT of shop interiors.

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 08:25:47 -0500, Leon wrote:

On 7/8/2013 8:57 AM, basilisk wrote:
Over the long weekend I primed the inside of the shop,
two coats of PVA primer/sealer that had been tinted white.

This caused a stir at Lowes, apparently no one had ever requested
the already white primer be tinted white, basically they humored
me to get me out the door.

After two coats of primer (25 gallons) blocks are sealed and
no color bleed through anywhere, something of an achievement
when painting block walls.

Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.

Considerations on applying in high humidity? Humidity is in the 90's
and will remain so until mid-September.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,
even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much
wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?

Everything will be rolled and brushed

basilisk



I used Glidden latex simi satin. Not happy. When I lean a board on the
wall the paint sticks and pulls away and leaves a small cut mark.

Perhaps it was Glidden, perhaps it is the relatively high humidity
conditions.

Anyway Oil based paints tend to dry/cure better regardless of quality.

Latex cures harder with the better quality paints.

I would look for Sherwin Williams/Sears Easy Living Best

Thanks

I've almost settled on SW ProMar 200 semigloss.
Not cheap, not grossly expensive, supposedly on the higher
end of durable.

Still considering the oil based paints.

There are a huge array of products, all blanketed in layers
of marketing hype, you spend your money and take your chances.

basilisk

On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 10:36:31 -0500, basilisk
wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 08:25:47 -0500, Leon wrote:

On 7/8/2013 8:57 AM, basilisk wrote:
Over the long weekend I primed the inside of the shop,
two coats of PVA primer/sealer that had been tinted white.

This caused a stir at Lowes, apparently no one had ever requested
the already white primer be tinted white, basically they humored
me to get me out the door.

After two coats of primer (25 gallons) blocks are sealed and
no color bleed through anywhere, something of an achievement
when painting block walls.

Considering that I will most likely never paint the inside again,
what would be the best topcoat? Oil base or water base?
I am willing to spend the money for a quality, durable paint, but what
brand and type does everyone like?
Sometimes spending a lot of money doesn't guarantee a good product.

Considerations on applying in high humidity? Humidity is in the 90's
and will remain so until mid-September.

Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,
even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much
wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?

Everything will be rolled and brushed

basilisk



I used Glidden latex simi satin. Not happy. When I lean a board on the
wall the paint sticks and pulls away and leaves a small cut mark.

Perhaps it was Glidden, perhaps it is the relatively high humidity
conditions.

Anyway Oil based paints tend to dry/cure better regardless of quality.

Latex cures harder with the better quality paints.

I would look for Sherwin Williams/Sears Easy Living Best

Thanks

I've almost settled on SW ProMar 200 semigloss.
Not cheap, not grossly expensive, supposedly on the higher
end of durable.

Still considering the oil based paints.

There are a huge array of products, all blanketed in layers
of marketing hype, you spend your money and take your chances.

basilisk
Getting difficult to even BUY oil based paints in many areas.
Virtually no oil based primers in Ontario Home Depot stores, and even
at Sherwin Williams oil based paints are virtually extinct.

Had a problem with water based brimer softening drywall patche -
making them blister - untill I got "smart" and sprayed a thin coat of
automotive touchup enamel/laquer over the patch first.

On 7/9/13 12:05 PM, wrote:
Getting difficult to even BUY oil based paints in many areas.
Virtually no oil based primers in Ontario Home Depot stores, and even
at Sherwin Williams oil based paints are virtually extinct.

Had a problem with water based brimer softening drywall patche -
making them blister - untill I got "smart" and sprayed a thin coat of
automotive touchup enamel/laquer over the patch first.


Since discovering Zinsser BIN, I don't even mess around with other
products. I think Karl and Leon both turned me on to it. It's shellac
based primer that dries fast and hard. It's expensive but nothing works
as well.

I've used other, cheaper, Zinsser primers that weren't shellac based and
they performed equally well. If you know exactly what you're going over
and what's going on top, pick and choose the exact primer. If you don't
know for certain, just get the BIN.

But either way, I'd say go with Zinsser.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

White will come back to bite you.

Off white or egg-shell is your friend.

The yacht builders learned that a long time ago.

Both of the above will provide good reflectivity IMHO.

Lew

--------------------------------------------------------
wrote:

Why will white come back to bite him?? On a yacht it is hard to
keep
the finish white due to algae, salt, and other contaminants - but
you
still see as many white as any onther colour - and perhaps as many
as
all other colours combined, depending on where you are.

Gloss white steel is used in a LOT of shop interiors.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yachts provide a very difficult challenge to the marine coatings
industry.

Every one of them that I'm aware of offer at least three different
"White" coatings.

The basic problem is UV damage.

Not only does the boat get hit with the direct rays of the sun but in
addition, the sun's rays get reflected from the water so it is a
double whammy.

The service life of a marine coating in the Caribbean are about half
what thyey are in the Chesapeake Bay or the Great Lakes.

Since daylight is the culprit that we are dealing with any paint or
coating, trying to maintain a pure white is the most difficult task.

Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.

The whole process is a fight with mother nature.

Lew

On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 17:41:37 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.

I have zero knowledge on paint for marine purposes, but I would've
thought that our current technological knowledge would be able to come
up with a paint that is truly UV resistant.

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:


Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not
pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.

-------------------------------------------------
wrote:

I have zero knowledge on paint for marine purposes, but I would've
thought that our current technological knowledge would be able to
come
up with a paint that is truly UV resistant.
--------------------------------------------
When they do, the painters will be out of business along with many of
the support suppliers.

Lew

On 7/9/13 9:27 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:


Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not
pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.

-------------------------------------------------
wrote:

I have zero knowledge on paint for marine purposes, but I would've
thought that our current technological knowledge would be able to
come
up with a paint that is truly UV resistant.
--------------------------------------------
When they do, the painters will be out of business along with many of
the support suppliers.

Lew



So what? I don't see a lot of wagon wheel repairmen anymore.
Or Horseshoers.
8-track manufactures seemed to move on to something else, too.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 19:27:39 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:


"Lew Hodgett" wrote:


Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not
pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.

-------------------------------------------------
wrote:

I have zero knowledge on paint for marine purposes, but I would've
thought that our current technological knowledge would be able to
come
up with a paint that is truly UV resistant.
--------------------------------------------
When they do, the painters will be out of business along with many of
the support suppliers.

Lew

Many polyurethane paints ARE very UV resistant. Imron for one.
Most urethane paints, even red, can be touched up even when 10 years
old without resorting to blending or custom mixing to compensate for
fading.

wrote:

Many polyurethane paints ARE very UV resistant. Imron for one.
Most urethane paints, even red, can be touched up even when 10
years
old without resorting to blending or custom mixing to compensate for
fading.
----------------------------------------------------------
You will have to define "Very Resistant".

A little bit pregnant doesn't cut it.

You either do or don't block UV rays.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not
pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.
-------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

When they do, the painters will be out of business along with many
of
the support suppliers.
----------------------------------------------------
"-MIKE-"wrote:

So what? I don't see a lot of wagon wheel repairmen anymore.
Or Horseshoers.
8-track manufactures seemed to move on to something else, too.
------------------------------------------------------
The day a complete block of UV damage is obtained, will be a major
milestone.

Skin cancer will be gone, the fading and resultant shortening of
useful service life of almost everything from clothing to hard goods
will have a rather dramatic effect on humanity in total.

We are not talking about the loss of a few items such as buggy whips
or 8-tracks, but rather a major way we conduct our lives.

Lew

"-MIKE-" wrote:

But either way, I'd say go with Zinsser.
---------------------------------------
If you want an argument, you'll have to change the subject.

Lew

On 7/9/13 11:28 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

Choosing an "Off White" not only allows for an extended service life
since the daylight is trying to fade a color that is already not
pure
white, but is also more able to hide marks and smudges that will
happen during service.
-------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:

When they do, the painters will be out of business along with many
of
the support suppliers.
----------------------------------------------------
"-MIKE-"wrote:

So what? I don't see a lot of wagon wheel repairmen anymore.
Or Horseshoers.
8-track manufactures seemed to move on to something else, too.
------------------------------------------------------
The day a complete block of UV damage is obtained, will be a major
milestone.

Skin cancer will be gone, the fading and resultant shortening of
useful service life of almost everything from clothing to hard goods
will have a rather dramatic effect on humanity in total.

We are not talking about the loss of a few items such as buggy whips
or 8-tracks, but rather a major way we conduct our lives.

Lew


And we'll adapt.
How the hell did anyone survive before fire?
Before they learned to make a spear from a sharpened stone?
Before the bow and arrow?
Before refrigeration?
Before penicillin?
Before the internet. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 21:28:51 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
Skin cancer will be gone, the fading and resultant shortening of
useful service life of almost everything from clothing to hard goods
will have a rather dramatic effect on humanity in total.

So, eliminating UV effects is a holy grail comparable to a usable
superconductor?

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 01:57:51 GMT, basilisk
wrote:

On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 09:39:02 -0700, SonomaProducts.com wrote:


Whatever brand, I want to stick with white and at least a semigloss,

even considered a gloss or high gloss, but I have never seen that much

wall done in a true gloss, would it be too much of a good thing?



Everything will be rolled and brushed

I am not a pro painter but do a lot of painting on my rentals. Once you
have that primer in place you can use pretty much anything. I just
primed out a freshly sheetrocked and textured walk in closet using Lowes
PVA primer this last weekend. I wish I had though to tint it because it
looks great but is kind of grayish. I would have left it if it was white
enough.

I would just use Valspar or Olympic laytex if you are buying from Lowes.
You could go to exterior if yo want it to be a bit tougher but it will
stink inside until it gasses off all the ammonia or whatever that smell
is. Also, semi-gloss is as much as you will want to go on a wall system.
Gloss just doesn't hold up well on large areas for some reason in my
experience. Also, with today's paints, you could go with egg-shell or
satin and get just as much wash-ability if that is what you are going
for.

cleaning is one reason the other is light reflection, I want and need
it bright. I'll take your word for the durability issue on the gloss,
I have no experience with gloss other than on trim.

basilisk

When I did mine 30 years ago I used no tecture on the drywall. Had to
work harder at taping and sanding but then after the primer I went
with an off white enamel. I can still take a dust mop or damp mop to
the walls for easy cleaning.

Mike M

wrote:
On Tue, 9 Jul 2013 21:28:51 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
Skin cancer will be gone, the fading and resultant shortening of
useful service life of almost everything from clothing to hard goods
will have a rather dramatic effect on humanity in total.

So, eliminating UV effects is a holy grail comparable to a usable
superconductor?

No... how silly of you Dave. Everybody knows that the holy grail is a
*real* cure for ED...

--

-Mike-

There is some kind of color that is widely used in bathrooms in
Commercial structures where the surfaces are often prevented, I am not a painter but do a lot of painting on my rentals and farmhouses. , Beautiful paint indicates beautiful house.




carpet cleaning gold coast