On Mon, 1 Oct 2012 06:42:19 -0500, "HeyBub"
For some time, I understand, they've been making railroad cross-ties out of
concrete.

Evidently some believe that concrete will last longer than
creosote-impregnated wood...

Some special attribute of this concrete to prevent it cracking from
vibration?

Dave wrote:
On Mon, 1 Oct 2012 06:42:19 -0500, "HeyBub"
For some time, I understand, they've been making railroad cross-ties out of
concrete.

Evidently some believe that concrete will last longer than
creosote-impregnated wood...

Some special attribute of this concrete to prevent it cracking from
vibration?

In Japan they use a rubber pad between the rail plate and the concrete.

--
G.W. Ross

Whatever their other contributions to
society lawyers could be an important
source of nutrition.

On 10/1/2012 12:29 AM, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

You're probably right, but it's taught in the BEST Continuing Ed class
that I just finished yesterday. That very many people do so is fairly
unlikely, but the better builders will, and I will in the future.
Swingy, what's your company's stance on this?

Cut ends need to be primed or painted on the primed product, edge coated on
the colored product with the appropriate colored Hardie edge coat. You
don't caulk the colorplus product at all, ever.


Does Hardi edge coat come with the order of colorplus or do you have to
know to ask for that product?

On another note, the older Hardi product specifically indicated to caulk
the joints, non-primed and non-colored. Do you just leave the joint
open now, so to speak?

On 10/1/2012 8:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/1/2012 12:29 AM, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to
come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six
sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

You're probably right, but it's taught in the BEST Continuing Ed class
that I just finished yesterday. That very many people do so is fairly
unlikely, but the better builders will, and I will in the future.
Swingy, what's your company's stance on this?

Cut ends need to be primed or painted on the primed product, edge
coated on
the colored product with the appropriate colored Hardie edge coat. You
don't caulk the colorplus product at all, ever.


Does Hardi edge coat come with the order of colorplus or do you have to
know to ask for that product?

There is an edge/touchup kit available from James Hardie, but it is
faster to have the color matched with an exterior paint at a paint store.

On another note, the older Hardi product specifically indicated to caulk
the joints, non-primed and non-colored. Do you just leave the joint
open now, so to speak?

No, you can caulk the primed product, you just don't caulk their
colorplus product at all. It looks funky, and caulk eventually turns a
different color than the product after weathering.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 09/29/2012 05:12 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
bob haller wrote:


buy from a major long term manufacturer...........

The whole point is that there are not any - or not many long term
manufacturers of this stuff. The attritirion rate in that manufacturing
industry is staggering. The best of warranties have proven to be worthless.
This is an industry that demands a closer look and not just falling back on
a long term manufacturer.


honestly i DONT LIKE WOOD for long term outdoor use.....

Well - everyone does have their preferences.


concrete doesnt cost that much more and lasts far longer.......

And... they are doing some really cool things with concrete these days.


http://www.wimp.com/traintrack/


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 10/1/12 8:52 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
And... they are doing some really cool things with concrete these days.


http://www.wimp.com/traintrack/


Thanks for that. Coolest. Thing. ever.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:15:17 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 2:54 PM, Nova wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:40:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
snip

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

I really can't think of anyone I know who actually painted and entire
deck. This summer my neighbor did paint the railings and pergola on
his deck. I can let you know how it holds up in a few years. I would
guess given, the higher amount of solids in paint, that it will hold
up better than stain.


The OP mentioned painting PT lumber. Not sure in the North but exterior
paints tend to hold up very well compared to stains. Still they need to
be applied to a suitable surface, a dry one. IIRC Hardi strongly
suggests a primer on their products to block moisture from coming in
contact with the back side of the paint surface. I personally have not
had great results with painting fresh PT lumber but do agree that the
longer you wait the trade off of a less than desirable surface,
appearance wise becomes another problem in itself.

Cement board like Hardi should be painted on all six sides prior to
going up on a house. Ditto wood products.

I understand the reasoning behind painting all six sides of wood (painting the
ends is way too much6 of a PITA) but why Hardi? Doesn't it come primed?



Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

Right. Painting the cut ends is a RPITA. How do you keep the paint from
drying in the can? ...On the brush?

On Mon, 01 Oct 2012 08:29:38 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 10/1/2012 8:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/1/2012 12:29 AM, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to
come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six
sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

You're probably right, but it's taught in the BEST Continuing Ed class
that I just finished yesterday. That very many people do so is fairly
unlikely, but the better builders will, and I will in the future.
Swingy, what's your company's stance on this?

Cut ends need to be primed or painted on the primed product, edge
coated on
the colored product with the appropriate colored Hardie edge coat. You
don't caulk the colorplus product at all, ever.


Does Hardi edge coat come with the order of colorplus or do you have to
know to ask for that product?

There is an edge/touchup kit available from James Hardie, but it is
faster to have the color matched with an exterior paint at a paint store.

On another note, the older Hardi product specifically indicated to caulk
the joints, non-primed and non-colored. Do you just leave the joint
open now, so to speak?

No, you can caulk the primed product, you just don't caulk their
colorplus product at all. It looks funky, and caulk eventually turns a
different color than the product after weathering.

How much space should be between the Hardie planks? If it's to be caulked,
there has to be somewhere for the caulk to go. The house we just bought has
some gaps that look wider than they should be (and of course, no caulk).

On 10/1/2012 4:12 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 01 Oct 2012 08:29:38 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 10/1/2012 8:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/1/2012 12:29 AM, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to
come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six
sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

You're probably right, but it's taught in the BEST Continuing Ed class
that I just finished yesterday. That very many people do so is fairly
unlikely, but the better builders will, and I will in the future.
Swingy, what's your company's stance on this?

Cut ends need to be primed or painted on the primed product, edge
coated on
the colored product with the appropriate colored Hardie edge coat. You
don't caulk the colorplus product at all, ever.


Does Hardi edge coat come with the order of colorplus or do you have to
know to ask for that product?

There is an edge/touchup kit available from James Hardie, but it is
faster to have the color matched with an exterior paint at a paint store.

On another note, the older Hardi product specifically indicated to caulk
the joints, non-primed and non-colored. Do you just leave the joint
open now, so to speak?

No, you can caulk the primed product, you just don't caulk their
colorplus product at all. It looks funky, and caulk eventually turns a
different color than the product after weathering.

How much space should be between the Hardie planks? If it's to be caulked,
there has to be somewhere for the caulk to go. The house we just bought has
some gaps that look wider than they should be (and of course, no caulk).

Once upon a time it was 1/8", but some caulk manufacturers recommended
1/4" and now, to add to the confusion, Hardie doesn't necessarily
recommend caulking (except that field cut ends should be primed,
painted, or caulked on some of their products), and strictly states not
to caulk on their colorplus product ... so that's been a moving target
since day 1.

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be necessary.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Mon, 01 Oct 2012 17:57:34 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 10/1/2012 4:12 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Mon, 01 Oct 2012 08:29:38 -0500, Swingman wrote:

On 10/1/2012 8:22 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/1/2012 12:29 AM, Swingman wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 09:26:13 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 7:52 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

Hardi may all come primed now but it did not always. It used to
come in
a cement grey color.

And, I can assure you 90% of Hardi does not get primed on all six
sides.
Construction crews don't paint the ends after cutting to length. I
suspect that caulk will substitute.

You're probably right, but it's taught in the BEST Continuing Ed class
that I just finished yesterday. That very many people do so is fairly
unlikely, but the better builders will, and I will in the future.
Swingy, what's your company's stance on this?

Cut ends need to be primed or painted on the primed product, edge
coated on
the colored product with the appropriate colored Hardie edge coat. You
don't caulk the colorplus product at all, ever.


Does Hardi edge coat come with the order of colorplus or do you have to
know to ask for that product?

There is an edge/touchup kit available from James Hardie, but it is
faster to have the color matched with an exterior paint at a paint store.

On another note, the older Hardi product specifically indicated to caulk
the joints, non-primed and non-colored. Do you just leave the joint
open now, so to speak?

No, you can caulk the primed product, you just don't caulk their
colorplus product at all. It looks funky, and caulk eventually turns a
different color than the product after weathering.

How much space should be between the Hardie planks? If it's to be caulked,
there has to be somewhere for the caulk to go. The house we just bought has
some gaps that look wider than they should be (and of course, no caulk).

Once upon a time it was 1/8", but some caulk manufacturers recommended
1/4" and now, to add to the confusion, Hardie doesn't necessarily
recommend caulking (except that field cut ends should be primed,
painted, or caulked on some of their products), and strictly states not
to caulk on their colorplus product ... so that's been a moving target
since day 1.

Wow! 1/4" is a lot.

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be necessary.

Flash?

On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:53:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

Not even walked on. My balusters and rails would peel every couple of years,
too. It's places that get and stay wet for periods of time. Fascia and
soffits, particularly, don't tend to stay wet.

On 10/2/12 11:56 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:53:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

Not even walked on. My balusters and rails would peel every couple of years,
too. It's places that get and stay wet for periods of time. Fascia and
soffits, particularly, don't tend to stay wet.


He was replying to someone who said "PT chemicals prevent paint
adhesion," which isn't true.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Existential Angst wrote:


Might a stain make a good primer for paint?


Nope. Why do you need a primer? To fill? Then use a real primer - stain
will not fill. Otherwise? Just paint.

--

-Mike-

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 12:22:11 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 10/2/12 11:56 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:53:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

Not even walked on. My balusters and rails would peel every couple of years,
too. It's places that get and stay wet for periods of time. Fascia and
soffits, particularly, don't tend to stay wet.


He was replying to someone who said "PT chemicals prevent paint
adhesion," which isn't true.

I have no direct information there but I've never had problems with paint
sticking to the trim on the house. Same paint. Same prep. The trim wasn't
PT, though.

Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 09/29/2012 05:12 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:


And... they are doing some really cool things with concrete these
days.

http://www.wimp.com/traintrack/

Very cool - but I was thinking more about concrete countertops and the
likes.

--

-Mike-

On 10/1/2012 5:57 PM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

While the crew had considerable experience installing siding, they had
no experience with this particular product, and I'm dammed particular
about how it's installed, both to look good, and to maintain product
warranty ... particularly with _not_ using caulk if at all possible,
painting/priming field cut ends, and proper butt joint flashing.

No problem ... parked the truck in the shade, pulled out the iPad, sat
it on the hood, and with the three man crew gathered around we had an
impromptu OJT training film by showing the following video, over LTE, on
my iPad3 (which never leaves my hands while on site):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vy1l79CO1E

When anyone had any questions, we replayed the particular parts. Took
about ten minutes, and I left to come back to the shop comfortable
knowing that the supervisor and crew knows exactly what I expect, all
without regard to any language barrier/misinterpretation.

High tech materials, products, tools and technology make for an all
around better job, in all aspects ... gotta love it in this day and age.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

"Swingman" wrote

High tech materials, products, tools and technology make for an all around
better job, in all aspects ... gotta love it in this day and age.

Wow, three comments.

1) That is a high tech gadget you carry around that creates an instant, in
the field tutorial.

2) You obviously have a good crew there. They gathered around, watched the
tutorial and even asked questions.

3) I wish a high tech tutorial would have been available, long ago, when my
father gave me that obligatory, rite of passage "birds and bees lecture.

On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/1/2012 5:57 PM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

While the crew had considerable experience installing siding, they had
no experience with this particular product, and I'm dammed particular
about how it's installed, both to look good, and to maintain product
warranty ... particularly with _not_ using caulk if at all possible,
painting/priming field cut ends, and proper butt joint flashing.

No problem ... parked the truck in the shade, pulled out the iPad, sat
it on the hood, and with the three man crew gathered around we had an
impromptu OJT training film by showing the following video, over LTE, on
my iPad3 (which never leaves my hands while on site):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vy1l79CO1E

When anyone had any questions, we replayed the particular parts. Took
about ten minutes, and I left to come back to the shop comfortable
knowing that the supervisor and crew knows exactly what I expect, all
without regard to any language barrier/misinterpretation.

High tech materials, products, tools and technology make for an all
around better job, in all aspects ... gotta love it in this day and age.


Veeeeeeeeeery Interesting!

On 10/4/2012 11:28 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:

3) I wish a high tech tutorial would have been available, long ago,
when my father gave me that obligatory, rite of passage "birds and bees
lecture.



Being raised on a horse farm, neither a high tech tutorial, nor parental
discussion, was ever actually necessary. Besides, there was Debbie D., a
real country girl, who rolled us both up in a blanket one night while
camping in the back yard, around the age of twelve, for a "hands on"
demo.


--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.

--
www.ewoodshop.com

On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

On 10/5/2012 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you
paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James
Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012




So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff).
Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the
saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut,
scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

Why ruin an otherwise good Festool Kapex on a siding job??

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 10/5/2012 8:19 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/5/2012 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:
On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you
paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James
Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012





So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to
let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them
match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff).
Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt
joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the
saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut,
scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

Why ruin an otherwise good Festool Kapex on a siding job??


You would keep the Makita as your beater and the Kapex would never see
sunlight, so to speak. LOL

Leon wrote:


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

You really are an undercover Festool Dealer, aren't you? Or, do you just
enjoy taunting Karl?

--

-Mike-

On 10/5/12 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


Noted for future reference.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 10/5/2012 9:46 AM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Leon wrote:


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

You really are an undercover Festool Dealer, aren't you? Or, do you just
enjoy taunting Karl?



:~)

On Thursday, October 4, 2012 10:43:15 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
On 10/1/2012 5:57 PM, Swingman wrote: Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be necessary.

On a more utilitarian note, the same applies. Some time ago, someone had asked about siding for a storage shed, they were building, and asked specifically about using T1-11 siding. I had used T1-11 for my shop and stressed priming and painting all edges and, in particular, the lower beveled edge, including 10" up the backside lower edge (in case of rain trying to wick up on that beveled under-back side.

My garage has T1-11, also, and it has held up well (almost 20 yrs, with periodic normal preventive maintenance). I attribute this, at least partially, to the extra time and care in priming and painting all edges.

Properly taking care of ends and edges should be common sense.

I do like the tips for preventing scuffing and the like, too, for some specific products. I've never worked with the specific Hardie board you're speaking of, but I've taken note.

Sonny

On Fri, 05 Oct 2012 08:08:42 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS.
;-)

On 10/7/2012 6:37 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Oct 2012 08:08:42 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS.
;-)



Actually the Bosch, the one with the articulating arm is about half the
price of the Kapex and would probably be the one I would buy if I bough
a SCMS.

On Sun, 07 Oct 2012 19:49:24 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/7/2012 6:37 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Oct 2012 08:08:42 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS.
;-)



Actually the Bosch, the one with the articulating arm is about half the
price of the Kapex and would probably be the one I would buy if I bough
a SCMS.

I didn't buy that one. It had just come out when I bought mine and there were
no reviews yet. I'd probably drop the extra Franklin for it now. The only
thing I don't like about my Bosch is its dust collection sucks. Well, it
mostly blows.