I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?
--
EA

On 9/29/12 12:41 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?


I don't know how long you need to wait.

As for paint... might I suggest an opaque stain. Depending on the
concentration and size of pigment, it will get deeper into the grain of
the wood than paint, but from a distance looks like paint. It lasts a
lot longer than paint and fades instead of flaking/peeling.

Last porch I built, I used PT lumber with a white opaque stain. Up close
you could still see the grain of the wood, which was an attractive
feature. From the road, it looked like a newly painted white porch. It
stayed bright white for several years.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 9/29/12 12:41 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a
cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside,
of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?


I don't know how long you need to wait.

As for paint... might I suggest an opaque stain. Depending on the
concentration and size of pigment, it will get deeper into the grain of
the wood than paint, but from a distance looks like paint. It lasts a
lot longer than paint and fades instead of flaking/peeling.

Last porch I built, I used PT lumber with a white opaque stain. Up close
you could still see the grain of the wood, which was an attractive
feature. From the road, it looked like a newly painted white porch. It
stayed bright white for several years.

Good idear, I'll look into it. I wouldn't use white stain tho, something
red-ish -- which fades quickly in ultraviolet.
Is there an exterior polyurethane that can protect pigments form UV? Or are
there UV-impervious pigments?
--
EA




--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/29/12 12:56 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Last porch I built, I used PT lumber with a white opaque stain. Up close
you could still see the grain of the wood, which was an attractive
feature. From the road, it looked like a newly painted white porch. It
stayed bright white for several years.

Good idear, I'll look into it. I wouldn't use white stain tho, something
red-ish -- which fades quickly in ultraviolet.
Is there an exterior polyurethane that can protect pigments form UV? Or are
there UV-impervious pigments?


I just brought up white because it's the color we used on our porch.
I'm no expert but in my experience nothing will stand up to UV... for
very long.
I'm sure a good paint shop could tell you what's out there that works
best.
Maintaining outdoor woodwork has always been arduous.
Engineered composite lumber has held up to UV so far, as advertised,
from what I can tell.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/29/2012 12:41 PM, Existential Angst wrote:
I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

PT lumber is typically very very high in moisture content. Read that as
often soaking wet. Paint needs to stay dry on the side that it adheres
to a surface. If moisture saturates the surface under the paint the
paint will fail.




And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Use a moisture meter or wait at least year. Method of application has
nothing to do with how long the paint will last on a poor surface.

That said some better lumber yards, not home centers, carry kiln dried
PT lumber, this is what you want if you want to paint right away.



Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?

That will depend on the wood. Fur, SYP, mahogany, ipe, cedar are a few
commonly used woods for out door use with no protection or paint.

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:41:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:41:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:40:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
snip

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

I really can't think of anyone I know who actually painted and entire
deck. This summer my neighbor did paint the railings and pergola on
his deck. I can let you know how it holds up in a few years. I would
guess given, the higher amount of solids in paint, that it will hold
up better than stain.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 15:54:31 -0400, Nova wrote:

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:40:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
snip

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

I really can't think of anyone I know who actually painted and entire
deck. This summer my neighbor did paint the railings and pergola on
his deck. I can let you know how it holds up in a few years. I would
guess given, the higher amount of solids in paint, that it will hold
up better than stain.

I painted all the (PT) railings on my deck and front porch on my VT house.
Peeling was a major problem and I had to repaint every couple of years. Stain
didn't last any longer.

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:41:18 -0400, "
I painted all the (PT) railings on my deck and front porch on my VT house.
Peeling was a major problem and I had to repaint every couple of years. Stain
didn't last any longer.

Which would make sense since PT wood is already engorged with chemical
preservatives. There isn't any available wood fibre left for the paint
to soak in and adhere to it.

On 9/29/2012 2:54 PM, Nova wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:40:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
snip

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

I really can't think of anyone I know who actually painted and entire
deck. This summer my neighbor did paint the railings and pergola on
his deck. I can let you know how it holds up in a few years. I would
guess given, the higher amount of solids in paint, that it will hold
up better than stain.


The OP mentioned painting PT lumber. Not sure in the North but exterior
paints tend to hold up very well compared to stains. Still they need to
be applied to a suitable surface, a dry one. IIRC Hardi strongly
suggests a primer on their products to block moisture from coming in
contact with the back side of the paint surface. I personally have not
had great results with painting fresh PT lumber but do agree that the
longer you wait the trade off of a less than desirable surface,
appearance wise becomes another problem in itself.

Leon wrote:


The OP mentioned painting PT lumber. Not sure in the North but
exterior paints tend to hold up very well compared to stains. Still
they need to be applied to a suitable surface, a dry one. IIRC Hardi
strongly suggests a primer on their products to block moisture from
coming in contact with the back side of the paint surface. I
personally have not had great results with painting fresh PT lumber
but do agree that the longer you wait the trade off of a less than
desirable surface, appearance wise becomes another problem in itself.

So - I can't offer a definitve comment to this - only personal experience.
Up here in Central NY, over the years I have never had any success in
painting PT. It does not matter if I painted it early on, or let it age for
a year - or longer. For me... PT and paint just never seemed to be a
combination that lasted more than a couple of years.

Now stain... I won't say I get a hell of a lot more life out of a coat of
stain. Maybe a year longer sometimes. The difference lies in what happens
as the finish fails. Paint peels and becomes an ugly thing. Stain fades.
To re-paint I have to scrape all that crap and do it all over again. With
stain - just re-apply it.

I have not seen where either has proven to be better than the other over PT,
but stain is sure a lot easier to re-apply.

I think PT is just a pain in the ass no matter how you cut it...

--

-Mike-

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:30:18 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 2:54 PM, Nova wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:40:37 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 1:51 PM, Nova wrote:
snip

According to the Forest Products Lab:

"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings—a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.

I really can't think of anyone I know who actually painted and entire
deck. This summer my neighbor did paint the railings and pergola on
his deck. I can let you know how it holds up in a few years. I would
guess given, the higher amount of solids in paint, that it will hold
up better than stain.


The OP mentioned painting PT lumber. Not sure in the North but exterior
paints tend to hold up very well compared to stains. Still they need to
be applied to a suitable surface, a dry one. IIRC Hardi strongly
suggests a primer on their products to block moisture from coming in
contact with the back side of the paint surface. I personally have not
had great results with painting fresh PT lumber but do agree that the
longer you wait the trade off of a less than desirable surface,
appearance wise becomes another problem in itself.

Cement board like Hardi should be painted on all six sides prior to
going up on a house. Ditto wood products.

--
Never trouble another for what you can do for yourself.
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:41:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:


I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?


Contains a lot of moisture and the paint will peel. I'd wait a year
or so.


And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?

Not really, the rain does not get absorbed because the PT is saturated
with other chemicals.


Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Nope, peeling is peeling.


Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?

Look at the oldest house in your town. Chances are it is from the
1700's and if painted and cared for, still in good condition.


In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?

Wait for the snow to melt. Read the can, most paints should be 50
degrees or more, a few can tolerate 40 degrees.

never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......

Hmmmm..... how bout if I torched the wood, to sort of surface-singe it?
Would that help adhesion?
--
EA

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:43:10 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:


Hmmmm..... how bout if I torched the wood, to sort of surface-singe
it?
Would that help adhesion?

If you are going through that trouble, why not use KDAT instead? Kiln
Dried After Treatment

"thunder" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:43:10 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:


Hmmmm..... how bout if I torched the wood, to sort of surface-singe
it?
Would that help adhesion?

If you are going through that trouble, why not use KDAT instead? Kiln
Dried After Treatment

Too late. Plus this is stockade fencing, not too many local choices.
Basically it looked sturdy and was there.
Plus a kind of experimental installation, so I went cheap/convenient, not
really planning too much ahead.
Turned out pretty well, so now the painting issue.
--
EA

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:34:04 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......


Composite had its share of failures in the past too. Don't go for the
cheapest stuff if you go that way.

There are also many woods that made good decks, but are pricey too.
Mahogany, ipe, etc. I used tiger wood a couple of months back.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:34:04 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote:

never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......


Composite had its share of failures in the past too. Don't go for the
cheapest stuff if you go that way.

Not just in the past. An alarming number of manufacturers have gone belly
up and the rest are defending class action law suits. Well - maybe not all
of them, but most, for sure. Composite may be able to redeem itself over
time, but its history and its present offerings are something that brings to
mind the phrase "buyer beware...". One should do 30 minutes worth of
research before accepting anything a salesman for composite decking has to
say. And... it's not just the cheap guys. The best of them have problems
you don't want to be facing in 5 years or less.


There are also many woods that made good decks, but are pricey too.
Mahogany, ipe, etc. I used tiger wood a couple of months back.

Agreed. And not even that expensive. There are some good cost comparisons
out there that compare woods like Ipe with Composites. The inteligent buyer
might want to invest a few minutes in looking at those.

--

-Mike-

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 18:49:15 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:




There are also many woods that made good decks, but are pricey too.
Mahogany, ipe, etc. I used tiger wood a couple of months back.

Agreed. And not even that expensive. There are some good cost comparisons
out there that compare woods like Ipe with Composites. The inteligent buyer
might want to invest a few minutes in looking at those.


I bought mine at www.advantagelumber.com 25 boards and hardware to do
a 12 x 16 deck was about $1000 delivered. This is what I bought
http://www.advantagelumber.com/tigerwood_decking.htm

If you like wood, this is lovely to look at. I gave it a Penofin oil
treatment.

On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........


Actually have never had a problem with paint peeling on PT provided the
lumber was "dry".




and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......


Agreed.

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:32:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......
Agreed.

Hell, everything fails given enough time. Let's put some quantifiable
time numbers on that failure rate.

Leon wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........


Actually have never had a problem with paint peeling on PT provided
the lumber was "dry".


I guess I never got to that level of dry. And... I've painted as much as a
year after installation.




and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......


Agreed.

Look at the ongoing issues with composites. The promise on the showroom
floor is not what people actually realize a couple of years down the road.

--

-Mike-

On Sep 29, 7:00*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Actually have never had a problem with paint peeling on PT provided
the lumber was "dry".

I guess I never got to that level of dry. *And... I've painted as much as a
year after installation.



and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT
wood still fails.......

Agreed.

Look at the ongoing issues with composites. *The promise on the showroom
floor is not what people actually realize a couple of years down the road..

--

-Mike-


buy from a major long term manufacturer...........

honestly i DONT LIKE WOOD for long term outdoor use.....

concrete doesnt cost that much more and lasts far longer.......

On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

On Tue, 02 Oct 2012 09:53:06 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:
On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:
never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent
paint adhesion.........

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed
and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.

What did I do wrong?



And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a
surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.

Not even walked on. My balusters and rails would peel every couple of years,
too. It's places that get and stay wet for periods of time. Fascia and
soffits, particularly, don't tend to stay wet.

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
...

I've read you have to delay painting PT lumber from everywhere from two
weeks to a year. Latex paint...
What's the deal?

And, how does one tell if PT wood is ready to be painted?
It feels quite wet from the lumberyard/HD, but seems much drier in a cupla
days.
Does rain further extend the wait?
Does a sprayer allow you paint sooner than brushing/rolling??

Also, just curious: Will non-PT wood last as long as PT wood (outside, of
course), if it thoroughly painted?
In the northeast. Any special painting methods required?

Appreciate all the varied responses -- a surprising lack of consensus!! But
all good perspective on the problem.

If I can ascertain if stain might make a good primer for paint, I'll try
that. Altho, perhaps a good way to go would be to just find a suitable
stain, spray that on, see how it holds up, and then try painting in a year
or two if the stain fades, doesn't hold up, etc..

Someone mentioned painting at 50+ F. Does that apply to stain, as well??
If so, I'll have to sort of trade off drying time with temp, as fall is
already here.

alt.home.repair was trimmed from this piece of the thread, but since it was
the only ref, I though the ahr people could benefit from it.

==============
"Contrary to the belief of many consumer's and paint companies, it is
not necessary to allow newly installed pressure-treated wood to
weather or season for long periods of time before applying a coating.
Most newly built CCA treated wood decks can band should be protected
with a water repellent, toner or semi-transparent stain as soon as
possible after construction. Research has shown that exposing
unprotected wood to weathering for even short periods of time can
cause surface damage. This damaged surface reduces the ability
of the wood to hold onto subsequently applied coatings-a situation
that can ultimately lead to premature coatings failure. This, unless
the new treated wood is still very wet, it should be coated as soon as
possible after deck construction. If the wood is obviously wet, no
more than 2-3 weeks of air-drying should be allowed before a coating
is applied."

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2000/ross00b.pdf



Good to know but I noticed that most suggested coverings that you
mentioned above are not opaque, as paint is. So I would surmise that
paint would not be a good coating for new PT wood.
====================

I thought the ".... coated as soon as possible...." was interesting.

So basically I'm going to just give this a shot. My cobbled-up paint
sprayer will make this a whole lot easier, that is f'sure.
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EA







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EA