On 10/7/2012 6:37 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 05 Oct 2012 08:08:42 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut
ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be
necessary.

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie
ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...idingJob102012



So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let
the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or
does the end paint come from the factory?

I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match
the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works,
and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in
Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw,
and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the
product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the
project.


So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in
your future for a replacement? ;~)

I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS.
;-)



Actually the Bosch, the one with the articulating arm is about half the
price of the Kapex and would probably be the one I would buy if I bough
a SCMS.