We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

Cheers, Ollie

Ollie wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then a
corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the router.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

I have never seen or used corner chisel. It sounds a good tool for rough
surfaces, but can it do a smooth finishing touch. What is the reference you
use with that tool to get all the edges square and straight?

++ Ollie

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Ollie wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for
most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The
last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as
with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12"
sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then a
corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the router.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

How about the old fashion way like using a hand saw ? Clean up with a scrap
of 1x2 wrapped in 100 grit paper.

"Ollie" wrote in message
...
We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for
most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

Cheers, Ollie

Ollie wrote:

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

Ollie wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We
did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x
2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around
11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch
was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as
good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did
use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges.
What is that?

I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then
a corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the
router.

I have never seen or used corner chisel. It sounds a good
tool for rough surfaces, but can it do a smooth finishing
touch. What is the reference you use with that tool to get
all the edges square and straight?

Here's a link to a catalog listing for the one I have. It's
self-aligning. They're available from a number of manufacturers
and suppliers and they all work more or less the same.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=44837

Hope this helps.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

Morris Dovey wrote:

Ollie wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

Try raising the TS blade as high as it will go and flipping the stock
over to zero in on both sides.

Bandsaw with a fence would work well, as would a (good) jigsaw/blade
combo with a straightedge.

Have you got a hollow chisel mortiser?

How about a CNC router?!

JP

Jay Pique wrote:

How about a CNC router?!

Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a
corner chisel.

I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64"
up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any
of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the
chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut.

Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than
corner chisels. (-:

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

"Ollie" wrote in message ...
We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for
most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

I use a jig saw (Bosch 1587AVSK), like you did, on inside corners that are
too big for the band saw (read kick plate cutouts on cabinet sides).

A good jigsaw, a sharp, straight, high quality blade and, very importantly,
a framing square or edge guide of the appropriate size for a saw guide, will
generally give me a cut you can't tell from the table saw blade.

If you can, plans the cuts so that you can make the inside ones first,
giving you a stable base for whatever edge guide you use.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 19:16:48 -0400, "Ollie"
wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

Band saw to leave about 1/16 of the center both ways. Carefully file
away the last tad. Clamp blocks both sides if worried about
splintering when filing.

Bill.

If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing
with them all day long. =)

PS. Now I am dreaming for a tilting HCM. I am waiting for the GE 75-050T1
to be available on the dealers.

PPS. I will try the corner chisel for the 1/2 plywood cut.

PPPS. The surface from bandsaw is too rough for the application.
++ O

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Jay Pique wrote:

How about a CNC router?!

Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a
corner chisel.

I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64"
up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any
of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the
chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut.

Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than
corner chisels. (-:

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

Ollie wrote:

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

Jay Pique wrote:

How about a CNC router?!

Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or
a corner chisel.

I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64"
up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't
seen any of those bits with an adequate cutting length to
clear the chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut.

Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive
than corner chisels. (-:

If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and
HCM and playing with them all day long. =)

Reasonable capacity lasers are fairly expensive relative to most
shop tools. The last time I priced laser cutters, they were more
expensive than my entire existing 96"x48"x6" CNC setup. I decided
that I'd best do without.

My HCM is a cheapie ($100) from Harbor Freight and works well. I
don't use it often; but have been satisfied with its performance
so far.

I've seen good used 3-axis CNC routers for sale with a $2500
asking price. That seems like a fairly hefty sum until you add up
the costs of all the stuff they replace. You may be able to find
even lower prices if you monitor offerings on E-Bay and some of
the CNC forums like http://cnczone.com/classifieds/index.php and
http://www.talkshopbot.com

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto, Iowa USA

Ollie wrote:

We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for
most
of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last
inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with
table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander.

There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that?

What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades gives a
remarkably smooth cut.

Cheers, Ollie

--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:07:22 -0400, Ollie
wrote:
If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing
with them all day long. =)


What? No water jet?

John,

It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line.
What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand
coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or
right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?

++ Ollie
What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades gives a
remarkably smooth cut.
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Ollie wrote:

John,

It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line.
What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand
coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or
right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?
Am I alone in thinking use the power tool to get close and finish the
cut with a good hand saw?


You guys DO know what hand saws are, right?

On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 06:30:45 GMT, Chuck Yerkes
wrote:

Ollie wrote:

John,

It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line.
What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand
coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or
right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?
Am I alone in thinking use the power tool to get close and finish the
cut with a good hand saw?


You guys DO know what hand saws are, right?

Sure. They are for sawing hands.

No you are not alone.

Bill.

"Ollie" wrote in
:

John,

It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a
line. What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of
eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it
be on left or right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?

++ Ollie
What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades
gives a remarkably smooth cut.
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)



That's an excellent jigsaw. See if you can find an assortment of Bosch
blades, and try several. In the manual that came with mine, there were
recommendations on what blade to use for what purpose. When I read the
manual, and followed the instructions, the saw performed MUCH better.

I guess there's a first time for everything, right? ;-)

Patriarch

"Ollie" wrote in message

Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good?

To make a long story short, to cut a straight line with a jigsaw, you will
always get better results with a straight edge/saw guide to guide the cut.

On reasonably short cuts, I use one of two different sizes of framing
squares only because they are easy to hold with your free hand or clamp. Any
straight edge that you can hold, or clamp, on the workpiece along side the
cut will do.

Should it be on left or right?

Whatever fits. Put it on whatever side of the workpiece will take it and is
comfortable for you to cut on.

Should I update my jig saw to a newer model?

No need ... just get good blades and use a straight edge/guide of some type.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04