How to sharp inside corners
We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the
table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? Cheers, Ollie |
How to sharp inside corners
Ollie wrote:
We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then a corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the router. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to get sharp inside corners - corner chisel
I have never seen or used corner chisel. It sounds a good tool for rough
surfaces, but can it do a smooth finishing touch. What is the reference you use with that tool to get all the edges square and straight? ++ Ollie "Morris Dovey" wrote in message ... Ollie wrote: We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then a corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the router. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to sharp inside corners
How about the old fashion way like using a hand saw ? Clean up with a scrap
of 1x2 wrapped in 100 grit paper. "Ollie" wrote in message ... We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? Cheers, Ollie |
How to get sharp inside corners - corner chisel
Ollie wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message ... Ollie wrote: We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? I think I might have used a router instead of jig saw, then a corner chisel to remove the inside fillet left by the router. I have never seen or used corner chisel. It sounds a good tool for rough surfaces, but can it do a smooth finishing touch. What is the reference you use with that tool to get all the edges square and straight? Here's a link to a catalog listing for the one I have. It's self-aligning. They're available from a number of manufacturers and suppliers and they all work more or less the same. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=44837 Hope this helps. -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to sharp inside corners
Morris Dovey wrote:
Ollie wrote: We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? Try raising the TS blade as high as it will go and flipping the stock over to zero in on both sides. Bandsaw with a fence would work well, as would a (good) jigsaw/blade combo with a straightedge. Have you got a hollow chisel mortiser? How about a CNC router?! JP |
How to sharp inside corners
Jay Pique wrote:
How about a CNC router?! Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a corner chisel. I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64" up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut. Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than corner chisels. (-: -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to sharp inside corners
"Ollie" wrote in message ... We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? I use a jig saw (Bosch 1587AVSK), like you did, on inside corners that are too big for the band saw (read kick plate cutouts on cabinet sides). A good jigsaw, a sharp, straight, high quality blade and, very importantly, a framing square or edge guide of the appropriate size for a saw guide, will generally give me a cut you can't tell from the table saw blade. If you can, plans the cuts so that you can make the inside ones first, giving you a stable base for whatever edge guide you use. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 7/10/04 |
How to sharp inside corners
On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 19:16:48 -0400, "Ollie"
wrote: We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? Band saw to leave about 1/16 of the center both ways. Carefully file away the last tad. Clamp blocks both sides if worried about splintering when filing. Bill. |
How to sharp inside corners
If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing
with them all day long. =) PS. Now I am dreaming for a tilting HCM. I am waiting for the GE 75-050T1 to be available on the dealers. PPS. I will try the corner chisel for the 1/2 plywood cut. PPPS. The surface from bandsaw is too rough for the application. ++ O "Morris Dovey" wrote in message ... Jay Pique wrote: How about a CNC router?! Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a corner chisel. I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64" up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut. Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than corner chisels. (-: -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to sharp inside corners
Ollie wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message ... Jay Pique wrote: How about a CNC router?! Still need either a reasonably powerful laser for the CNC or a corner chisel. I suppose you /could/ cut a good inside corner with a 1/64" up-spiral bit in a couple of dozen passes; but I haven't seen any of those bits with an adequate cutting length to clear the chips/dust from a 1/2" deep cut. Lasers that'll cut 1/2" plywood are a *bunch* more expensive than corner chisels. (-: If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing with them all day long. =) Reasonable capacity lasers are fairly expensive relative to most shop tools. The last time I priced laser cutters, they were more expensive than my entire existing 96"x48"x6" CNC setup. I decided that I'd best do without. My HCM is a cheapie ($100) from Harbor Freight and works well. I don't use it often; but have been satisfied with its performance so far. I've seen good used 3-axis CNC routers for sale with a $2500 asking price. That seems like a fairly hefty sum until you add up the costs of all the stuff they replace. You may be able to find even lower prices if you monitor offerings on E-Bay and some of the CNC forums like http://cnczone.com/classifieds/index.php and http://www.talkshopbot.com -- Morris Dovey DeSoto, Iowa USA |
How to sharp inside corners
Ollie wrote:
We had to make some L-shape pieces from 1/2 in plywood. We did use the table saw for the outside dimensions (2' x 2'). Table saw was used for most of the length (around 11") for the two lines towards the center. The last inch was cut with a jig saw. Obviusly the result was not as good as with table saw. To smoothen the last part we did use a stationary 12" sander. There must be an easier way to get the nice inside edges. What is that? What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades gives a remarkably smooth cut. Cheers, Ollie -- --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
How to sharp inside corners
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 00:07:22 -0400, Ollie
wrote: If I were a rich man, I would have a laser cutter, CNC, and HCM and playing with them all day long. =) What? No water jet? |
How to sharp inside corners
John,
It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line. What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model? ++ Ollie What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades gives a remarkably smooth cut. --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
How to sharp inside corners
Ollie wrote:
John, It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line. What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model? Am I alone in thinking use the power tool to get close and finish the cut with a good hand saw? You guys DO know what hand saws are, right? |
How to sharp inside corners
On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 06:30:45 GMT, Chuck Yerkes
wrote: Ollie wrote: John, It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line. What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model? Am I alone in thinking use the power tool to get close and finish the cut with a good hand saw? You guys DO know what hand saws are, right? Sure. They are for sawing hands. No you are not alone. Bill. |
How to sharp inside corners
"Ollie" wrote in
: John, It's a Bosh 1585 VS with "standard" blade driven manually following a line. What kind of blade and feed settings you recommend? Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? Should it be on left or right? Should I update my jig saw to a newer model? ++ Ollie What kind of jig saw did you use? A Bosch with the right blades gives a remarkably smooth cut. --John Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) That's an excellent jigsaw. See if you can find an assortment of Bosch blades, and try several. In the manual that came with mine, there were recommendations on what blade to use for what purpose. When I read the manual, and followed the instructions, the saw performed MUCH better. I guess there's a first time for everything, right? ;-) Patriarch |
How to sharp inside corners
"Ollie" wrote in message
Instead of eye-hand coordination, what kind of guide system is good? To make a long story short, to cut a straight line with a jigsaw, you will always get better results with a straight edge/saw guide to guide the cut. On reasonably short cuts, I use one of two different sizes of framing squares only because they are easy to hold with your free hand or clamp. Any straight edge that you can hold, or clamp, on the workpiece along side the cut will do. Should it be on left or right? Whatever fits. Put it on whatever side of the workpiece will take it and is comfortable for you to cut on. Should I update my jig saw to a newer model? No need ... just get good blades and use a straight edge/guide of some type. -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 7/10/04 |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:31 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter