I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Its an issue. But then its Harbor Freight, I'd return it and bring your
straight edge with you if your planning on buying another from them.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

Thanks for your comments on this situation.


Not blaming you for wanting to save some money but you might not be able to
find a place that sells lower quality tools. For a sander that size expect
to pay in the $150~$200 range for something tollerable.

With a surface like what you described you might be lucky to be able to keep
sand paper stuck to the surface.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

It's called a beveled disk.

If you think on it, you'll see that the center of a rotating disk moves much
less abrasive against the work than the outer edges. The beveled edge evens
out the contact. If you push a piece of work against the entire surface, the
parts of the work in contact with the outer edges of the disk will have more
material removed than the center.

Also a beveled disk allows you to use a disk sander as a joiner.

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.


I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.


Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it there.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G7297 12"
I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.

G'luck!

--
Make the best use of what is in your power,
and take the rest as it happens.
-- Epictetus

On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:15:51 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

You can even find a 10" sanding disc that is designed to fit a table saw
that is tapered on one face and flat on the opposite face.

Supposedly the tapered face is designed to produce a jointed edge.

But that only works if you can tilt the disc slightly. I doubt the HF
sander has that capability.

I have a tapered disc for my tablesaw. Tilting it to remove the taper so
that only a small arc touches the wood, and using the rip fence, I can
get a pretty smooth edge.

But unless I've got several pieces to do it's more trouble to set it up
than it's worth.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Mar 27, 10:28*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

Does it wobble, too? *I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?


3) Return it and call Grizzly. *Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712"
I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. *YMMV.

That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
my budget (and gift cards).

As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.


G'luck!

Thanks!

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc,
it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the
straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat
against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the
opposite edge of the
disc.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an
issue or not.

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

It's called a beveled disk.

If you think on it, you'll see that the center of a
rotating disk moves much less abrasive against the work
than the outer edges. The beveled edge evens out the
contact. If you push a piece of work against the entire
surface, the parts of the work in contact with the outer
edges of the disk will have more material removed than the
center.

Also a beveled disk allows you to use a disk sander as a
joiner.

HB:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and
cuts faster
as it is more distant from the center, which the taper
adjusts for.

An inventory of the varying utility of the disc
configurations Lew
mentioned would be illuminating.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

In ,
DerbyDad03 spewed forth:
On Mar 27, 10:28 am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not
flat. It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight
edge rocks from side to side. With the straight edge held flat
against the one side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the
opposite edge of the disc.

Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you
used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new
purchase
price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?


3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it
there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712" I get
$191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.

That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
my budget (and gift cards).

As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.


G'luck!

Thanks!

another option if you truly need it flat is to take the disc to a machine
shop and have them machine it flat.
It should mill easily, since I'm assuming the plate is aluminum

On 3/27/2011 4:32 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

Simply set up a slight angle and run the opposite edge along the disk
against the fence and you'll end up w/ a sanded straight edge on the
other side -- a poor man's jointer if lacking one (or the obvious better
expedient of a hand plane).

--

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:32:06 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

It's "jointer", not "joiner". A flat sanding disc will leave arcs on the
wood. If the disc is tapered and then tilted so it is vertical, only a
small area of the disc touches the wood, thus eliminating the arcs. This
gives a smooth edge. A jointer leaves machining ripples on the edge so
still needs a little sanding - the disc does not.

That said, it's often easier to sand or plane out the ripples than it is
to set up the sanding disc on the table saw :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and cuts faster as
it is more distant from the center, which the taper adjusts for.

With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the wood unless you
run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey
wrote:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and
cuts faster as
it is more distant from the center, which the taper
adjusts for.

With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the
wood unless you
run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

LB:

Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
would the effect of the differential speed
of the disc at points progressively further from the
center be on the piece sanded?

I have a tribe of different
sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
of varying profiles.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:28:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Mar 27, 10:28Â*am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

Does it wobble, too? Â*I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

"It's all in how you use the tool."


Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

Yabbut, first you have to talk the HF knuckledraggers to bring them
all down to you to check.


2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

It might not, but the more expensive tools get closer scrutiny at all
the Red Dragon Noodle and Machine Tool factories, don'tchaknow?


3) Return it and call Grizzly. Â*Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712"
I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. Â*YMMV.

That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
my budget (and gift cards).

I hoped against hope that wasn't the case.


As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.

What does the Japanese translator for the Chinglish translated booklet
say about this parameter?

If it's not, get a set of carbide lathe tools and a lathe manual so
you can learn how to turn down the center to flat.


G'luck!

Thanks!

--
If the only prayer you ever say in your whole
life is "thank you," that would suffice.
-- Meister Eckhart

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:32:06 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

In their dreams. Move along, nothing to see here.

--
If the only prayer you ever say in your whole
life is "thank you," that would suffice.
-- Meister Eckhart

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:30:09 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and cuts faster as
it is more distant from the center, which the taper adjusts for.

With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the wood unless you
run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

....and then only if it's a flat taper, not a crown.

--
If the only prayer you ever say in your whole
life is "thank you," that would suffice.
-- Meister Eckhart

On Mar 27, 7:28*pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:32:06 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
How does one use a disc sander as "joiner"? I'm just not seeing that.

It's "jointer", not "joiner". *A flat sanding disc will leave arcs on the
wood. *If the disc is tapered and then tilted so it is vertical, only a
small area of the disc touches the wood, thus eliminating the arcs. *This
gives a smooth edge. *A jointer leaves machining ripples on the edge so
still needs a little sanding - the disc does not.

That said, it's often easier to sand or plane out the ripples than it is
to set up the sanding disc on the table saw :-). *

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch...der-47404.html





Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:39:34 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
would the effect of the differential speed
of the disc at points progressively further from the
center be on the piece sanded?

I have a tribe of different
sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
of varying profiles.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

In my experience, (12" disk on shopsmith), you have 2 methods of
sanding, puching between fence nd disk and moving the disk towards the
fence for squaring or getting uniform lengh...
If you're running the stock between the disk and fence, as you would
through a table saw, I can't see where spped at any point of the disk
is relevent because you're pushing the stock past the entire disk,
right??

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
DerbyDad03 wrote:

As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

So does everybody else. Never try to do so otherwise.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.

Hard to say.

The ones with a built in bevel are meant for saws where you can tilt the
plate so the "bent" part is vertical; once done you don't have to worry
about the board catching the leading edge of the disk (in addition to
being able to join). The same holds true with your disk (except for the
joining).

I don't buy the idea about the edge being set back so it won't sand so
fast...if it isn't touching the wood it isn't going to sand regardless of
how much faster the edge is traveling relative to the center. Cute idea
though.

The center on mine is slightly higher too but not by 1/16, more like a
RCH.

Have not heard that unit of measure used for about 40 years! Glad there are
still folks around who know the true measure of tolerance!

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:28:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Mar 27, 10:28 am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

"It's all in how you use the tool."


Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

Yabbut, first you have to talk the HF knuckledraggers to bring them
all down to you to check.


2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

It might not, but the more expensive tools get closer scrutiny at all
the Red Dragon Noodle and Machine Tool factories, don'tchaknow?


3) Return it and call Grizzly. Have them ensure that you'll get a
flat one if you order from them, then order it
there.http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Disc-Sander/G729712"
I get $191.65 as a delivered price to Oregon. YMMV.

That's a bit high for my needs. $89.99 - $20 (on a $100) purchase fit
my budget (and gift cards).

I hoped against hope that wasn't the case.


As far as what I plan to use it for (mostly rounding the corners on
wood (and aluminum) stock) the "bevel" might not be an issue since
I'll really just be using the down stroke side of the disc anyway.

I'm really just curious if that's how it's supposed to be.

What does the Japanese translator for the Chinglish translated booklet
say about this parameter?

If it's not, get a set of carbide lathe tools and a lathe manual so
you can learn how to turn down the center to flat.


That's it, just turn it down in place! Imagine it's a bowl lathe ....

Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a sanding
disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that really
answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some well
intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a flat
disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping it -
which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not so sure at all that it
should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.


--

-Mike-

On 3/28/2011 12:57 PM, Doug Miller wrote:
In , wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really* need to
ask that question? :-)

I refuse to let you guys worry me about the birdbath I recently bought
from Harbor Freight! If it can't hold water it's going back (and yes
there is a screw going right through the bottom of the bowl, with a
rubber washer)! Seriously though, I'd just repair that. I hope the
birds aren't too rough on it... ; )



Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be out by
1/16" across an 8" disk.

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really* need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be out by
1/16" across an 8" disk.

On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as I
described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then you
can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.



--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Mac Davis" wrote in
message ...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 16:39:34 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:


Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
would the effect of the differential speed
of the disc at points progressively further from the
center be on the piece sanded?

I have a tribe of different
sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
of varying profiles.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

In my experience, (12" disk on shopsmith), you have 2
methods of
sanding, puching between fence nd disk and moving the disk
towards the
fence for squaring or getting uniform lengh...
If you're running the stock between the disk and fence, as
you would
through a table saw, I can't see where spped at any point
of the disk
is relevent because you're pushing the stock past the
entire disk,
right??

MD:

The thread somewhere took a subtle jog from the OP's (and
my)
interest in a separate machine driving a sanding disc where
contact
across the total face may be desired to a table saw mounting
a disc.

Apart, we agree on your point. I hope Baja is being good to
you.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

I would take it back. I had a disk sander made at a local machine shop years
ago and from the way I use it, have used it, and have used other disc
sanders, it would be almost useless and screw my wood machining up.

Sometimes you need/ want the whole width of the wood to be completely flat
and I have no other awareness of why you would want a cone peak in the
centre. This makes it a half diameter disc size from what you paid for in my
book. To shear off the back of a box or similar wide wood piece you would
need to run the piece across the surface and risk waves in you work as you
hit harder and softer pieces to sand. Try planing a door edge completely
flat with a 8" long plane. Similar thing and you pay for size just like the
women that hire you....LOL


----------------


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
That said, I'm still not sure what I got.

All other things quality-related being what they are, this question is
still on the table (no pun intended):

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 12:47:12 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

Brilliant observation. Any point on the disc travels and cuts faster as
it is more distant from the center, which the taper adjusts for.

With a rigid disc, only the high part ever contacts the wood unless you
run it through at an angle corresponding to the taper.

LB:

Agreed. Wouldn't that be the procedure? If not--and
you are using a flat disc and flat piece of wood--what
would the effect of the differential speed
of the disc at points progressively further from the
center be on the piece sanded?

I have a tribe of different
sanding machines but since no fixed-disc, stationary
unit is among them, it would be worthwhile to
a have the benefit of experienced understanding which
relates to my earlier inquiry about the use of discs
of varying profiles.


I am not buying in to the statement that the disk is beveled on a disk
sander to compensate for the rate of stock removal. It would be a night
mare trying to keep the surface flat.

Either way I don't use my 12" disk sander for sanding a straight edge unless
it is a short edge, a couple of inches . I the disk sander more for
rounding a straight edge. Use an edge sander If you want to sand the edge
of a board straight. Basically a disk sander sands in the wrong direction,
against the grain of the wood, if you use it to sand the edge of a board.
It really is more of a shaping tool.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Mar 27, 10:28 am, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 19:18:53 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I just bought a Harbor Freight 10" Disc Sander.

If I place a straight edge across the face of the disc, it's not flat.
It is "higher" in the center of the disc, i.e. the straight edge rocks
from side to side. With the straight edge held flat against the one
side of the face, there's about a 1/16"gap at the opposite edge of the
disc.

Does it wobble, too? I'd return it.

No wobble at all. I would have already returned it if it did.

I'm new to disc sanders, so I'm not sure if this is an issue or not.

If you're trying to flatten a surface, it will be a big issue.

Now I'm really confused. Some say that it's a beveled disk and can be
used as a joiner, you say it's an issue if I try to use it to flatten
a surface. Isn't a joiner used to flatten a surface (edge) for gluing?

Thanks for your comments on this situation.

Some choices:

1) Return it to HF and measure the other models they have in stock,
taking the best one.

A fine suggestion, if I feel like taking the plastic straps off the
boxes, cutting the packing tape, removing the packing foam, lifting
the units out of their boxes and taking them out of the plastic bag.
Then, after checking each disk - 'cuz I'm a nice guy - reversing the
whole process and packing them all up again. ;-)

2) Return it and try one of their 12" models for $35 more. If you used
a 20% off coupon, be sure they apply that discount to the new purchase
price.

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

A stationary disk sander is not used to straighten anything but small stock.
AND it sands against the grain. It should be use to shape curves. A 12"
model will shape faster.

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that
really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some
well intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a
flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping
it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not so sure at all that
it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrection
for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS is a different
matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into the
disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this machine for shaping curves.
or angles.

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as I
described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then you
can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.


IF you use the bench top sander which sands in the middle of the disk to
sand the edge of the wood with the aid of some sort of rip fence, WHAT do
you use to remove the sanding marks that will resulf. The scratch pattern
will be 90 degreed to the grain dirrection.

On Mar 28, 3:47*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

...





Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
sanding disk should be tapered. *So far, I haven't seen anything that
really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some
well intended guesses. *The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a
flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping
it - which you could not do with a flat disk. *I'm not so sure at all that
it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrection
for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. *One on a TS is a different
matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into the
disk at a 90 degree angle. *You want to use this machine for shaping curves.
or angles.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."

Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.

That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
perhaps I need to "upgrade".

Leon wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...


Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen anything that
really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and
some well intended guesses. The one advantage that a tapered disk
holds over a flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if
you were ripping it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm
not so sure at all that it should not be 1/16th of an inch across
its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong
dirrection for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS
is a different matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock
pretty much into the disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this
machine for shaping curves. or angles.

Thanks Leon. I've spent a bit of time today, digging into this a bit (only
a bit...), and I can see your point. Interestingly, manufacturers of all
sorts of disk sanding equipment seem to provide both tapered and non-tapered
disks. Appears there is some good reason for both. I don't own one, so I
can't speak from any experiences, but I've been interested in watching this
thread unfold.

--

-Mike-

On Mar 28, 4:22*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 28, 3:47*pm, "Leon" wrote:





"Mike Marlow" wrote in message

...

Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks. Do you *really*
need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object" known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc Sander" -- the question
is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not dead flat -- a
disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it should *not* be
out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the net about why a
sanding disk should be tapered. *So far, I haven't seen anything that
really answered the OP's question, other than opinions about HF, and some
well intended guesses. *The one advantage that a tapered disk holds over a
flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if you were ripping
it - which you could not do with a flat disk. *I'm not so sure at all that
it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in the wrong dirrection
for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. *One on a TS is a different
matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock pretty much into the
disk at a 90 degree angle. *You want to use this machine for shaping curves.
or angles.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."

Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.

That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
perhaps I need to "upgrade".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

FYI...the main purpose for this machine (at this time) is for rounding
the corners of 1/4" x 1" flat aluminum stock. Essentially turning
rectangles into long ovals.

I make brake mechanisms for Soap Box Derby cars and each brake
requires 4 pieces of 1" flat stock of various lengths, for a total of
16 corners that need to be rounded to a specific radius. (I have a
spool of thread that gives me the perfect radius on the 1" stock)

I started rounding the corners with my bench grinder, but that
resulted in too much heat (read: too much melted aluminum that needed
to be filed smooth)

I then tried my belt sander secured to my workbench in a jig - which
worked much better than the grinder - but holding the pieces by hand
was still cumbersome and tiring.

That led me to the benchtop disc sander and it's built in table. With
80 grit sandpaper, the corners round off very quickly and then a quick
touch-up with a worn belt on my belt sander removes all the sanding
marks from the stock.

That's why I say that the taper is not an issue - for this task - but
if I'm limited by the taper from using the machine for other tasks
that a bench top disk sander is normally used for, then I might
consider replacing it.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

"You want to use this machine for shaping curves or angles."

Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I don't think
the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine for.

That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used for other
purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent that, then
perhaps I need to "upgrade".

It's the taper that PERMITS using the sander as a jointer.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:51:20 -0500, Leon wrote:

"Larry Blanchard" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as
I described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then
you can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.


IF you use the bench top sander which sands in the middle of the disk to
sand the edge of the wood with the aid of some sort of rip fence, WHAT
do you use to remove the sanding marks that will resulf. The scratch
pattern will be 90 degreed to the grain dirrection.

This is turning into a seminar :-).

If you take a tapered disc and tilt it so that the taper is perpendicular
to the table, the only part that touches the wood is a thin vertical
slice. That slice is moving parallel to the table and to the grain. Yes,
there's a very slight arc - a few degrees - pretty much invisible.

I've described this several times now. If you still don't understand it
I can't help any more.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 3/28/2011 2:51 PM, Leon wrote:
"Larry wrote in message
...
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 20:30:50 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

You do realize that I bought a Disc Sander, not a Sanding Disk, right?

Yes I do. If either the table or the disc tilts you can use it just as I
described by setting up a rip fence of some sort. If no tilt, then you
can't use it as a jointer and should have a flat disc.


IF you use the bench top sander which sands in the middle of the disk to
sand the edge of the wood with the aid of some sort of rip fence, WHAT do
you use to remove the sanding marks that will resulf. The scratch pattern
will be 90 degreed to the grain dirrection.

If the point is simply to straighten the edge for jointing, doesn't
matter (assuming you're not use 40-grit chunk o' rock paper, anyway).
Any fine scratches won't harm the glue joint at all.

Or, as Larry suggests, set it up instead of on the center edge to use
the top edge in a (nearly) parallel direction if you prefer and the
scuff pattern will be w/ longways.

--

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Mar 28, 4:22 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Mar 28, 3:47 pm, "Leon" wrote:





"Mike Marlow" wrote in
message

...

Doug Miller wrote:
In article
,
DerbyDad03 wrote:

Is my disc tapered because it was designed that way
or is my disc
tapered due to poor workmanship?

You bought it at Harbor Freight. You paid 80 bucks.
Do you *really*
need to
ask that question? :-)

Since there certainly appears to be an "object"
known as a tapered
disc, could it be that this is what comes with the
HF Disc Sander or
are tapered discs only used on table saws?

Obviously that's "what comes with the HF Disc
Sander" -- the question
is
whether it's intentionally so.

Seriously, though: the disc should be flat. Maybe not
dead flat -- a
disk
sander is not, after all, a precision tool -- but it
should *not* be
out by 1/16" across an 8" disk.

Actually there is quite a bit of information on the
net about why a
sanding disk should be tapered. So far, I haven't seen
anything that
really answered the OP's question, other than opinions
about HF, and some
well intended guesses. The one advantage that a
tapered disk holds over a
flat disk is that it allows you to feed stock in as if
you were ripping
it - which you could not do with a flat disk. I'm not
so sure at all that
it should not be 1/16th of an inch across its surface.

I can assure you that a bench top disk sander sands in
the wrong dirrection
for feeding stock as if you were ripping it. One on a TS
is a different
matter but this is a sander where you feed the stock
pretty much into the
disk at a 90 degree angle. You want to use this machine
for shaping curves.
or angles.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"You want to use this machine for shaping curves or
angles."

Which is specifically why I purchased it and also why I
don't think
the "taper" impacts the *main* task I'll use the machine
for.

That said, *if* it a bench top disc sander could be used
for other
purposes (e.g. jointing) and the taper is going to prevent
that, then
perhaps I need to "upgrade".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

FYI...the main purpose for this machine (at this time) is
for rounding
the corners of 1/4" x 1" flat aluminum stock. Essentially
turning
rectangles into long ovals.

I make brake mechanisms for Soap Box Derby cars and each
brake
requires 4 pieces of 1" flat stock of various lengths, for a
total of
16 corners that need to be rounded to a specific radius. (I
have a
spool of thread that gives me the perfect radius on the 1"
stock)

I started rounding the corners with my bench grinder, but
that
resulted in too much heat (read: too much melted aluminum
that needed
to be filed smooth)

I then tried my belt sander secured to my workbench in a
jig - which
worked much better than the grinder - but holding the pieces
by hand
was still cumbersome and tiring.

That led me to the benchtop disc sander and it's built in
table. With
80 grit sandpaper, the corners round off very quickly and
then a quick
touch-up with a worn belt on my belt sander removes all the
sanding
marks from the stock.

That's why I say that the taper is not an issue - for this
task - but
if I'm limited by the taper from using the machine for other
tasks
that a bench top disk sander is normally used for, then I
might
consider replacing it.

DD:

This may sound delirious but I would call HF customer
service and ask to speak to someone informed about the
problem/concerns that may exist here. Whether you make that
informative contact depends on your approach and existence
of such a person available directly or by email.

If you ever stray to www.jobvent.com you can learn a lot
about
HF and many other enterprises. In general, people are not
particularly
satisfied at the firm. Nonetheless, HF does have folk pretty
hep
about products they have a volume experience with.

My results, calling
early in the morning before caustic customers take their
toll, talking in an
informed and sympathetic way about their job (abetted by
what
jobvent has clued) have been good. The same goes for store
service
on their standard product guarantee and reasonable
considerations
extended beyond that timeline without the purchase of their
pricey and profitable extended warranty program.

This may not work for everyone and it will not always work
with a misgiven frontline respondent. But few people have
abusing the customers they depend on as their goal nor do
reflexively flush constructive feedback that would help them
sell more and make more money.

What's the risk? Fifteen minutes?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

You may find the 12" sanding disks easier to find in stores.

Also the conical surface may be difficult to stick flat sanding disk onto
without wrinkles.
---------------


Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

On Mar 28, 9:37*pm, "Josepi" wrote:

You may find the 12" sanding disks easier to find in stores.


At least for now, HF carries 10" discs in multi packs:

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...-set-3727.html

Also the conical surface may be difficult to stick flat sanding disk onto
without wrinkles.

I haven't tried attaching a sheet on my own, but the 80 grit that came
installed on the unit is perfectly flat.

We'll see.

---------------

Why would switching to a 12" model ensure that I would get a flat
disc?

Larry Blanchard wrote:
: On Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:15:51 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

: You can even find a 10" sanding disc that is designed to fit a table saw
: that is tapered on one face and flat on the opposite face.
:
: Supposedly the tapered face is designed to produce a jointed edge.

: But that only works if you can tilt the disc slightly. I doubt the HF
: sander has that capability.

: I have a tapered disc for my tablesaw. Tilting it to remove the taper so
: that only a small arc touches the wood, and using the rip fence, I can
: get a pretty smooth edge.

I'm confused. Why is this better than a plain flat disc?

And if the disk is flat, you get a 90-degree edge when the TS blade is
set at 90 degrees, etc., but the tapered disc is going to require some
adding/subtracting.

-- Andy Barss