I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

For pine, you could give it a go, but for a good finish guaranteed you
may find a second clean-up pass is better.

I'd use a 1/2" or greater _HIGH_QUALITY_ (Amana, Whiteside, etc.)
straight or spiral-cut carbide.

If there's quite a lot of this, an alternative would be to make a
temporary saw table for the skilsaw, mounting it upside down and a fixed
fence just a little proud of final width then cleanup w/ router or a
handplane.

--

You state that you have "2 fences" .. by that, I assume you can offset
one of them and use the table in a jointer configuration. This should
be perfectly safe, and I would still do it in 2 passes.

On 5/27/2010 8:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!

In article , routerman wrote:
On May 27, 5:24=A0am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".


Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
Safety?? See http://patwarner.com/safety.html

AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".

On May 27, 9:44*am, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
You state that you have "2 fences" .. by that, I assume you can offset
one of them and use the table in a jointer configuration. * This should
be perfectly safe, and I would still do it in 2 passes.

On 5/27/2010 8:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:



I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, basically an infeed and outfeed fence.

To do 2 passes I assume I should set the infeed fence to remove 1/8"
of material, position the outfeed fence flush with the front of the
bit, and run the material through twice.

Should I use a "down force" feather board on both fences or just the
infeed?

On May 27, 9:55*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , routerman wrote:

On May 27, 5:24=A0am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
Safety?? Seehttp://patwarner.com/safety.html

AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".

I had already read the last bullet prior to your suggestion. :-)

If I am using the infeed and outfeed fences, leaving the 1/16" - 3/32"
of material would required the fences to be even and I would then need
to go back a remove the material in some other manner, correct?

Why wouldn't the 2 fence method, with the infeed fence 1/8" back from
the face of the bit and with feather boards holding the material in
place, be safe?

The baseboard is only, what, 1/2" thick? It seems that a 3/4 straight
bit would remove 1/8" x 1/2" of pine without even knowing it was
there.

I might be missing something...what would that be?

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On May 27, 9:44 am, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
You state that you have "2 fences" .. by that, I assume you can offset
one of them and use the table in a jointer configuration. This should
be perfectly safe, and I would still do it in 2 passes.

On 5/27/2010 8:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:



I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, basically an infeed and outfeed fence.

To do 2 passes I assume I should set the infeed fence to remove 1/8"
of material, position the outfeed fence flush with the front of the
bit, and run the material through twice.

For best quality final cut and as others have mentioned, the last pass
should be slight, take out the bulk with 2~3 passes and follow up with the
last pass.



Should I use a "down force" feather board on both fences or just the
infeed?

Down force if working with long pieces which may bow up at the cutter.
Keeping the work flat against the table will yield safer, cleaner and
smoother cuts.

In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 27, 9:55=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article .=
com, routerman wrote:

On May 27, 5:24=3DA0am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
Safety?? Seehttp://patwarner.com/safety.html

AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".

I had already read the last bullet prior to your suggestion. :-)

If I am using the infeed and outfeed fences, leaving the 1/16" - 3/32"
of material would required the fences to be even and I would then need
to go back a remove the material in some other manner, correct?

Yes, but that's not rocket surgery. :-)

1/16 is thin enough that you can break it off with your fingers. Then clean up
the edge with a block plane.

Why wouldn't the 2 fence method, with the infeed fence 1/8" back from
the face of the bit and with feather boards holding the material in
place, be safe?

You need to feed the wood past an exposed bit. I'd set the bit height to just
clear the workpiece -- the less it sticks up above the work, the safer it is.

Greater risk of a kickback, too.

The baseboard is only, what, 1/2" thick? It seems that a 3/4 straight
bit would remove 1/8" x 1/2" of pine without even knowing it was
there.

I might be missing something...what would that be?

Just as long as it's not fingertips... Be careful of the exposed bit, and pay
attention to the correct feed direction.

On May 27, 11:26*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , DerbyDad03 wrote:





On May 27, 9:55=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article .=
com, routerman wrote:

On May 27, 5:24=3DA0am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

Academic: I'd take 3, ~3/64/pass
Cutter: Straight, at least 3/4 x 3/4 w/1/2 shank.
Practical/safety: High risk, the work may self feed, break the cutter
or kick back. I'd saw the stuff.
Safety?? Seehttp://patwarner.com/safety.html

AMEN! DerbyDad, please read the above page, and pay particular attention to
the last bullet point, "Full thickness router table cuts".

I had already read the last bullet prior to your suggestion. :-)

If I am using the infeed and outfeed fences, leaving the 1/16" - 3/32"
of material would required the fences to be even and I would then need
to go back a remove the material in some other manner, correct?

Yes, but that's not rocket surgery. :-)

1/16 is thin enough that you can break it off with your fingers. Then clean up
the edge with a block plane.



Why wouldn't the 2 fence method, with the infeed fence 1/8" back from
the face of the bit and with feather boards holding the material in
place, be safe?

You need to feed the wood past an exposed bit. I'd set the bit height to just
clear the workpiece -- the less it sticks up above the work, the safer it is.

Greater risk of a kickback, too.



The baseboard is only, what, 1/2" thick? It seems that a 3/4 straight
bit would remove 1/8" x 1/2" of pine without even knowing it was
there.

I might be missing something...what would that be?

Just as long as it's not fingertips... Be careful of the exposed bit, and pay
attention to the correct feed direction.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks Doug. Your bit height suggestion was exactly what I was
thinking.

This is by no means my first time using the router table, so feed
direction and fingertip clearance is not an issue - not something I'd
ignore, but not an issue, if you know what I mean.

I've done roundovers and rabbets for years, this is my first "ripping"
so to speak, and only being done because of the location of the
jobsite.

P.S. While I appreciate everyone's concern, why is the use of an
exposed straight bit any different than using a double roundover bit
like the one shown below? In my mind, it seems safer since the
material is not "trapped" between any flutes.

http://www.antonline.com/images/v18/045325738153.jpg

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:444e4e2e-1a7e-4dca-b588-
:


With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
circular or sabre saw.

I guess I could grab $100 table saw from Harbor Freight but I don't
really need one. My full size table saw fits my needs, but I can't
haul it 300 miles to the job site.



Many circular and sabre saws have fence kits that may work poorly for
this application. The ones I've seen just seem to be too small for
ripping work.

Making a make-shift table saw could work. Mount the circular saw upside
down on a piece of plywood, and use a straight 2x as a fence. You could
even screw the fence down since it won't need to move.

Puckdropper

--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

On 5/27/10 3:37 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Making a make-shift table saw could work. Mount the circular saw upside
down on a piece of plywood, and use a straight 2x as a fence. You could
even screw the fence down since it won't need to move.

Puckdropper


I've done that very thing and it worked great.

As for the router table.... I think some are making rocket surgery out
of it.

With a 1/4" shim on the outfeed fence and a 1/2 straight bit (or any
spiral cut version), there's not reason he can't take it all off at
once. Assuming the trim is standard 1/2"-ish thick stuff, a good
rabbeting bit could hog it out faster.

As for feather boards.... one on each side, pushing towards the fence is
all you really need*. The act of pushing the stock through the bit will
be enough to hold it down.

*and you wouldn't really "need" those, but they'd be a good set of
helping hands.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Shim level, and tape the stuff to bigger stock and clamp a straight edge to
it for a circular saw fence.

Of course this all depends on how wide your trim is.

I have done this for many trim pieces, including tigerwood flooring and MDF
door jam extensions for 2x8 walls. It's awkward at first but I have never
owned a table saw and probably won't. Good packing tape or ducttape (the
grey kind that isn't for ducts) works well.



"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
news:444e4e2e-1a7e-4dca-b588- some chores, so I
With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
circular or sabre saw.

I guess I could grab $100 table saw from Harbor Freight but I don't
really need one. My full size table saw fits my needs, but I can't
haul it 300 miles to the job site.


"I'd saw the stuff."

On 5/27/10 5:03 PM, Josepi wrote:
Shim level, and tape the stuff to bigger stock and clamp a straight edge to
it for a circular saw fence.


I've done that and it works great. Carpet tape would do the job.
You'd be surprised at the nice edge a new 7-1/4" fine blade can leave.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

With what? I don't have access to a portable table saw and I doubt I
could neatly cut a 1/4" off of a kitchen's worth of baseboard with a
circular or sabre saw.

....

Why not, pray tell?

In less than 30 minutes or so you could make a temporary table for the
skilsaw upside down thru a piece of ply and have a quite serviceable
temporary TS for the purpose....

--

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!

With the two piece fence and a large diameter bit you probably could do it
if the wood is pine and not more than the 5/8" or so thick stuff. Use
feather boards to hold it tight to the fence.

Another option, if you have a portable thickness planner you could make a
jig to stand the baseboard on edge upside down... angle it a bit to back
bevel the bottom so it's easier to scribe to the floor. I think this would
be easier if you have any volume of wood to do.

John

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

The questions:

Can I remove a 1/4" in one pass or should I plan on two?

What size bit should I use?

Any other tips? (I'll use feather boards, etc.)

Note: I don't believe that quarter-round will be installed, so I need
a good finished "cut". I'm traveling 300 miles to dad's house to do
some chores, so I want to be prepared to knock this one off fairly
quickly.

Thanks!

Do you have a circular saw equipped with an edge guide?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material .. is jointing on a router
table, using split fences a good option ??", I thin you would have
gotten more favorable responses. As soon as you called it a "ripping"
operation, folks got all weird on you.

Use your router table with the offset fences .. use the largest bit you
can swing .. use featherboards or at least guide blocks .. use
reasonable caution .. all should be well.



I need to "rip" some 3" high baseboard down by about 1/4". This is
your basic home-center baseboard.

I don't have a portable table saw, but I do have a router table with 2
fences. I figure I can run the baseboard along a straight bit and
remove the ~1/4".

On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.

Is that not still a rip cut?

(not arguing)

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 5/28/2010 10:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.

Is that not still a rip cut?

(not arguing)

On my table saw it would indeed be a rip cut, and I would have a 1/8"
strip left for the scrap bin ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

-MIKE- wrote:
On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
....

That's some thick TS blade (like a dado set w/ a 1/4" width)...

Even a standard kerf would leave sliver.

The difference imo is that a 1/4" is quite a hogging operation w/ any
router leading to the possibility of splitting ahead of the cut if try
it in a single pass or requiring at least two passes whereas a sawing
operation does it in one. If there's only a piece or two to do, no real
problem; if talking about a whole houseful of baseboard, that gets to be
a sizable amount of effort...

--

On 5/28/10 2:05 PM, dpb wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.
...

That's some thick TS blade (like a dado set w/ a 1/4" width)...


Substitute 1/8" if it gets you past the metal block. :-)


Even a standard kerf would leave sliver.

The difference imo is that a 1/4" is quite a hogging operation w/ any
router leading to the possibility of splitting ahead of the cut if try
it in a single pass or requiring at least two passes whereas a sawing
operation does it in one. If there's only a piece or two to do, no real
problem; if talking about a whole houseful of baseboard, that gets to be
a sizable amount of effort...


Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper direction
(downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
off 1/4".

I see guys at the woodworking shows, demonstrating their panel bits, who
run the entire profile at once and the cut is clean as a whistle.

I suppose if you're using a little $99 router and a 5 bucks straight
bit, you'd have to sneak up on a 1/4."


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 5/28/10 2:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.

I just did that but there was a small offcut. And that was with a
full-width januwine HF chiwanese carbide blade, too! My Freud Diablo
came yesterday and I'm going to install it and try it out over the
weekend. It's a thin-kerf job.


Yeah, I guess I used too big a number in my haste.
But, you know what I'm saying.


Is that not still a rip cut?
(not arguing)

Yes, it's a rip.


Exactly. My only point was that the guy's original wording shouldn't
have puzzled any of the experienced guys in here.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 5/28/2010 11:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.

Is that not still a rip cut?

(not arguing)
No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.

On 5/28/10 4:18 PM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:


On 5/28/2010 11:56 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 5/28/10 10:38 AM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Your only "mistake" in this whole deal was in your wording .. .. if you
had said "I need to remove 1/4" of material ..

Let's say you have a 1x6 that is 5-1/2" wide and you need it to be
5-1/4, so you decide to use the table saw to do it. The thick blade's
kerf is going to remove the material with no cut-off left behind.

Is that not still a rip cut?

(not arguing)
No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.

So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.

So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?


Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!

From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking, a *rip cut* is a cut made
parallel to the wood grain http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_grain.
Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_saw, but other types of saws can
also be used, including hand http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw rip
saws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw, radial arm saws
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_arm_saw and band saws
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_saw.

Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a
rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can
certainly NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't
meet the criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave
you a piece of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head
to the router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation
mandates a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be
done with some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I
don't care if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result
in a narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.

On 5/28/10 4:51 PM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:

No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.

So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?


Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!

From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking, a *rip cut* is a cut made
parallel to the wood grain http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_grain.
Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Table_saw, but other types of saws can
also be used, including hand http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_saw rip
saws http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_saw, radial arm saws
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_arm_saw and band saws
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_saw.

Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a
rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can certainly
NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't meet the
criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave you a piece
of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head to the
router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation mandates
a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be done with
some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I don't care
if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result in a
narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.


I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.

So I would think the only confusion would be from inexperienced
woodworkers, whose advice one probably wouldn't want. Nor from people
who would get "weird" on someone asking for advice but not use the exact
terminology you prefer.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Perhaps the key work is rip **CUT*** and not rip **chew*. The waste piece is wood chips.

So the question comes down too... what is the definition of "rip" cutting?

Somebody figure this out and go change the wikipedia definition before it gets out of hand, here...LOL The point being wikipedia is quite often wrong and just somebody's opinion that has the energy to type it in.


""__ Bøb __"" wrote in message ...


No more a "rip" cut than if you removed 1/4" on a jointer .. .. just
semantics.


So there has to be a cut-off (waste) piece in order for it to be a rip?



Did I ever say that ?? ?? ?? I don't think so !! !! !!

From WIKIPEDIA : In woodworking, a rip cut is a cut made parallel to the wood grain. Rip cuts are commonly made with a table saw, but other types of saws can also be used, including hand rip saws, radial arm saws and band saws.

Kinda implies that we're talking about types of saws when referring to a rip cut .. not routers or jointers. In other words .. you can certainly NARROW a board using a jointer or router .. but it doesn't meet the criteria for calling it a "rip". I mean .. if someone gave you a piece of lumber and asked you to rip it in half .. would you head to the router table or the table saw ?? I don't think a rip operation mandates a piece of waste .. I think a rip operation implies it will be done with some type of saw as stated in the WIKI definition. Heck .. I don't care if you get a trained beaver to chew it off .. it will result in a narrower piece of stock, but it wouldn't have been ripped to get there.

I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.



Man, have you ever misinterpreted what I wrote !! !! !!

I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all .. .. I was kinda being
apologetic for all the silly controversy he got as responses. I mean
... kickbacks & finger-removing problems .. gimme' a break already.

On 5/28/10 5:47 PM, "__ Bøb __" wrote:


I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.



Man, have you ever misinterpreted what I wrote !! !! !!

I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all .. .. I was kinda being
apologetic for all the silly controversy he got as responses. I mean ..
kickbacks & finger-removing problems .. gimme' a break already.

Relax, man. I said in the first post I wasn't arguing.
Sorry if it's coming across that way. I'm not the one using exclamation
points. :-p


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
....

Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper direction
(downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
off 1/4".

In this case, he's no control over grain; he's got to take it off the
bottom edge and run in direction of feed. Only alternative is to have
two setups to feed from opposite bit sides which adds even more pita
factor the operation.

Sure, it _CAN_ be done; I just don't think it's the best/easiest by far
unless it's only a few pieces...

$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...

--

On May 28, 6:47*pm, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
I know that... and apparently you know that....and any experienced
woodworker knows that. But you gave the guy a hard time for using the
wrong words.... when we all knew what he was talking about from his
description.

Man, have you ever misinterpreted what I wrote !! !! !!

I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all .. .. I was kinda being
apologetic for all the silly controversy he got as responses. * I mean
.. kickbacks & finger-removing problems .. gimme' a break already.

"I wasn't giving the OP a hard time at all"

BTW...I took it like you meant it. We're good! :-)

You'll also noticed I put the words "rip" in quotes cuz I knew it
wasn't really a "rip".

Of all the tools I have, a jointer is not amongst the group, so asking
about using a router as a jointer wasn't something that came to mind.

Anyway, as I was loading up the tools to come to Dad's house, I
remembered that I still have my old Hirsch Saw Table from 20(?) years
ago buried in the back of the shed. Long ago I put a piece of plywood
on top and have used it as a portable work bench on occasion.

I threw it in the van, but I'm not sure if the mounting plate is
intact or if my PC left-hand circular saw will mount to it. I was
going to clamp the router table to it, but maybe I'll take the plywood
off and see if I can make it work as a table saw.

PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

On 5/28/10 7:21 PM, dpb wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
...

Using a good, sharp bit and a strong router, going in the proper
direction
(downhill grain), shouldn't even make you think twice about taking
off 1/4".

In this case, he's no control over grain; he's got to take it off the
bottom edge and run in direction of feed. Only alternative is to have
two setups to feed from opposite bit sides which adds even more pita
factor the operation.

Sure, it _CAN_ be done; I just don't think it's the best/easiest by far
unless it's only a few pieces...

$0.02, imo, ymmv, etc., etc., etc., ...

--

I guess I was thinking if the grain is running up hill when sitting
wall-side down, flip the trim piece end to end so it's sitting wall-side
up and the grain will be running downhill.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On May 28, 6:47 pm, "__ Bøb __" wrote:

PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!

JAG ;~)

On May 29, 8:28*am, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On May 28, 6:47 pm, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! *Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!

JAG ;~)

Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
a spoke shave. :-)

PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!

JAG ;~)

Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
a spoke shave. :-)

Take it out to the driveway or street, concrete or asphalt.
Push down, slide back and forth, 1/4" gone in about 1/2 hr. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 5/29/2010 1:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 29, 8:28 am, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
wrote in message
...
On May 28, 6:47 pm, "__ Bøb wrote:
PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would take
care of that!

JAG ;~)

Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
a spoke shave. :-)

It's normal here to assume that posters have some means of reshaping wood.

If you're without, perhaps you can visit a store that has these tools on
its shelves and explain that you'd like to "preserve" one them...

--
Morris Dovey
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
On 5/29/2010 1:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 29, 8:28 am, "John Grossbohlin"
wrote:
wrote in message
...
On May 28, 6:47 pm, "__ Bøb wrote:
PS It's only about 15 feet worth.

Equal Time Post: 15 feet is easily within hand tool range! Working to a
line, a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even a spoke shave would
take
care of that!

JAG ;~)

Assuming I actually had a a rip saw, bench plane, draw knife, or even
a spoke shave. :-)

It's normal here to assume that posters have some means of reshaping wood.

If you're without, perhaps you can visit a store that has these tools on
its shelves and explain that you'd like to "preserve" one them...

Yes, preserve some L-N stuff for someone to pick up at a yard sale for a
penny on the dollar after you're gone. "Not sure if it works or not, my
father never used it."

John

On 2010-05-29 11:28:37 -0400, Larry Jaques said:

http://www.supertool.com/index.htm

Bookmarked!

On 2010-05-29 23:03:31 -0400, DerbyDad03 said:

All in all, it was good day. Dad's helped me out a lot over the years
and it's nice to be able to do stuff for him now that he's, shall we
say, slowing down a bit. (Early 80's)

Good on you!

On 05/29/2010 11:22 PM, Steve wrote:
On 2010-05-29 11:28:37 -0400, Larry Jaques
said:

http://www.supertool.com/index.htm

Bookmarked!

Absolutely. It's one of the longest-lived bookmarks in my browser, and I still refer to it
all the time. Patrick really should turn this site into a bona-fide book.

--
What percentage of the driving populace do you suppose actually
understands the rules of engagement at a four-way stop?
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/