This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Max" writes:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Best" or "medco" brands.

scott

"Max" wrote in
:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max


No specific recommendations, but you may want to watch out for a feature
called "Easy Out" or "Call the locksmith (again)." The interior handle
turns freely to open the door, but doesn't release the lock or give any
indication the door was locked. As soon as you shut the door, you're
locked out.

Locks seem to be one of those things that once you hit a certain price
point you stop paying for quality and start paying for style. (And you
may not get the same quality for a higher style lock.)

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Max

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max Slagg brand. (spelling?) Is supposed to be bump proof. That is what I
have. BUT They will lock you out if you leave in locked setting but will
let you out. WW

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:300420102033464157%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
In article , Max
wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

30 seconds instead of 10?

If someone wants in, they're coming in.


Quite right. I only wish to *discourage* them.
I have a burglar alarm. Some thieves simply go door to door to see if
someone left a door unlocked.
My purpose in posting my inquiry was to see if anyone might have some
*worthwhile* contribution.
Scott Lurndal did.
But thanks for your wisdom. Even if it's in the category of *DUH".

Max

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
.. .
"Max" writes:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Best" or "medco" brands.

scott


Checking them out.
Thanks, Scott

Max

"WW" wrote in message
. ..

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max Slagg brand. (spelling?) Is supposed to be bump proof. That is what I
have. BUT They will lock you out if you leave in locked setting but will
let you out. WW




I Googled that and ended up with "Schlage Max". Looks promising.
Thanks.

Max

On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 20:33:46 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone
scrawled the following:

In article , Max
wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

30 seconds instead of 10?

If someone wants in, they're coming in.

If not through a door, through a slider. If not a slider, a window. If
not a window, they get out their cordless chainsaw (or recip) and make
a door in under a minute. Or they just drive through a wall. I've
seen all of these methods used in the USA in the past few years.

The sliding glass door was shattered with a 30 pound rock in the
middle of the day, in broad daylight in a close neighborhood. None of
the retired neighbors (as close as 40' away) heard a thing. Amazing.

--
Losing faith in humanity, one person at a time.

On 4/30/2010 8:59 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In , Max
wrote:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

They had a story about bumping locks on the TV news here
a while back. They showed that it was quick and easy,
but what the police said was the big thing. They said
that very few burglars bothered. Kicking the door in
is faster.

Bill

On 4/30/2010 5:51 PM, Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Have you rendered your doors and windows resistant to likely levels of
force? If not then you need to do that before you have to worry about
whether your locks can be picked--most intruders don't pick locks, they
break something.

If you're really concerned about bumping then call a locksmith and have
him rekey your existing locks with bumproof cylinders. It will likely
be cheaper than replacing them all with bumproof locks.

"Max" wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

Larry Jaques wrote:

The sliding glass door was shattered with a 30 pound rock in the
middle of the day, in broad daylight in a close neighborhood. None of
the retired neighbors (as close as 40' away) heard a thing. Amazing.

The rule I've heard is that you can get away with a single loud noise. People
might say "What's that?" but usually won't investigate. That slider breaking
will probably just be a sharp crack sound that could be anything. -- Doug

"Douglas Johnson" wrote in message
...
"Max" wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life.
Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong
plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws
in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug


I *think* I've pretty well covered those categories but I appreciate your
emphasis on them.
There are other measures I've taken as well; the burglar alarm, exterior
lighting, shrubbery kept trimmed.
Good relationships with neighbors. G A dog (albeit a somewhat friendly
one) whose bark is bigger than her bite.

Max

On 5/1/2010 9:35 AM, Douglas Johnson wrote:
wrote:

"Dave wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 4/30/2010 5:51 PM, Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Have you rendered your doors and windows resistant to likely levels of
force?

To the extent that I could without going to metal doors. They're all solid
core doors and fairly "hefty".

If not then you need to do that before you have to worry about whether your
locks can be picked--most intruders don't pick locks, they break something.

If you're really concerned about bumping then call a locksmith and have
him rekey your existing locks with bumproof cylinders. It will likely be
cheaper than replacing them all with bumproof locks.

I really need to replace the locksets anyway; they're 24 years old, much
used and "builder quality".
The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb

On May 1, 9:07*am, "Max" wrote:

The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

Just a couple of thoughts here. If you look at the Medeco or Best
brands, you will find that a lockset or deadbolt will run about $200
for each unit. i have installed hundreds of the Medeco, but no Best
branded locks. The Medecos are top flight, but they retain a definite
commercial appearance as that is their market.

If you go the commercial route, make sure you check out the
installation instructions. Most of them are box style locks, and you
will either need some real time and patience to install them, or rent/
buy a deep mortise machine. For the most part these are not locks
that you remove the old lock and simply screw a new one of them in the
old holes.

Through all the years of installing Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwins, Ball,
Yale and a slew of Chinese stuff, I like the Schlage for their price
point. As I have said before, I used to have a contract with a local
company to install their doors, and I have put a lot of Schlage
product on. Never had a service or warranty call. Their newer
finishes on their polished brass (starting about 5 years ago) hold up
great.

The upper line has a good finish on it in polished nickel, oiled
bronze, etc., that lasts well. The mechanicals are solid on their
hardware. Make sure you get a deadbolt that has a 1" throw.

I put Schlage on my house about 27 years ago, and the front door lock
still works smooth as silk. The only maintenance I have ever done on
the lock was to take it out and clean it and re-oil it after every ten
year mark.

The most important thing with any lock is the installation. I get
good service out of the stainless steel generic brands ("Defender",
"Titan" and such) for sheds, landlord repairs, etc., because I take
the time to adjust the lock to work properly.

A lock is working properly when you can close the door easily with one
finger and all you get is a "click". The deadbolt works correctly if
you turn the key and can barely feel the plunger assembly move.

The best additional security I do for my clients is to change out the
screws in the jamb side of the mortise. Instead of using the 5/8"
supplied screws, I get 2 1/2" screws in cadmium to install the strike
plates for both locksets and deadbolts. It takes an incredible amount
of energy to get those out of the jamb with brute force.

Good luck!

Robert

"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we travel
quite a bit.

Max

wrote in message
...
On May 1, 9:07 am, "Max" wrote:

The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

Just a couple of thoughts here. If you look at the Medeco or Best
brands, you will find that a lockset or deadbolt will run about $200
for each unit. i have installed hundreds of the Medeco, but no Best
branded locks. The Medecos are top flight, but they retain a definite
commercial appearance as that is their market.

If you go the commercial route, make sure you check out the
installation instructions. Most of them are box style locks, and you
will either need some real time and patience to install them, or rent/
buy a deep mortise machine. For the most part these are not locks
that you remove the old lock and simply screw a new one of them in the
old holes.

Through all the years of installing Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwins, Ball,
Yale and a slew of Chinese stuff, I like the Schlage for their price
point. As I have said before, I used to have a contract with a local
company to install their doors, and I have put a lot of Schlage
product on. Never had a service or warranty call. Their newer
finishes on their polished brass (starting about 5 years ago) hold up
great.

The upper line has a good finish on it in polished nickel, oiled
bronze, etc., that lasts well. The mechanicals are solid on their
hardware. Make sure you get a deadbolt that has a 1" throw.

I put Schlage on my house about 27 years ago, and the front door lock
still works smooth as silk. The only maintenance I have ever done on
the lock was to take it out and clean it and re-oil it after every ten
year mark.

The most important thing with any lock is the installation. I get
good service out of the stainless steel generic brands ("Defender",
"Titan" and such) for sheds, landlord repairs, etc., because I take
the time to adjust the lock to work properly.

A lock is working properly when you can close the door easily with one
finger and all you get is a "click". The deadbolt works correctly if
you turn the key and can barely feel the plunger assembly move.

The best additional security I do for my clients is to change out the
screws in the jamb side of the mortise. Instead of using the 5/8"
supplied screws, I get 2 1/2" screws in cadmium to install the strike
plates for both locksets and deadbolts. It takes an incredible amount
of energy to get those out of the jamb with brute force.

Good luck!

Robert

Bingo!! Just the sort of info I was seeking. Robert, you are a treasure.

Sometimes a guy comes here looking for advice when he has already made
up...well somewhere between 50 and 90 percent...of his mind but would really
like some confirmation.
My many thanks,

Max

Max wrote:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max
Did a job a few months back where the owner did extensive research on Locks
and windows. Most of the Alarm Companies said most of the burglaries
occurred at the front door, specially double doors with window. Kick in the
door or break the window. Second windows opened and only protected by a
screen. The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.


--
You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK !
Mandriva 2010 using KDE 4.3
Website: www.rentmyhusband.biz

On 5/1/2010 11:57 AM, Max wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.

"Max" wrote in message
...

Bingo!! Just the sort of info I was seeking. Robert, you are a treasure.

Sometimes a guy comes here looking for advice when he has already made
up...well somewhere between 50 and 90 percent...of his mind but would
really like some confirmation.
My many thanks,

Max

That was a particularly useful response, wasn't it?

I saw a video years ago called B and E A to Z, all about how to get into
places you don't have a key for. What an eye-opener, it showed most
residential locks to be a complete joke so far as even a slightly
experienced burglar is concerned. In addition a series of businesses I
worked for were burglarized and that was highly educational as well--a
steel-clad door barred from the inside doesn't matter much when they pry off
a vent cover into the phone/electrical room and then cut through the wall
with a battery-powered saw.

The thing about burglars is they look at a locked door in a totally
different way than a law-abiding citizen. If you don't have a key you think
you can't open that door, but a burglar thinks of the five ways he knows to
open that door without a key. One of the simplest is to cut a chunk out of
the door frame around the bolt so the door can be opened still locked with
the bolt uselessly still in place--a hammer and chisel or a reciprocating
saw renders even the best deadbolt pointless in moments if the door frame is
that easy to get through.

As others have suggested whether or not the lock is pick-resistant is of
less importance than how well the door and windows resist simple brute-force
methods since you're far more likely to encounter a meth-head with a pry-bar
than a cat-burglar with safe-cracking experience. In that regard your alarm
is already your best defense, as even a meth-head will see the alarm sign
and keep on going.

"DGDevin" wrote in message
m...

"Max" wrote in message
...

Bingo!! Just the sort of info I was seeking. Robert, you are a
treasure.

Sometimes a guy comes here looking for advice when he has already made
up...well somewhere between 50 and 90 percent...of his mind but would
really like some confirmation.
My many thanks,

Max

That was a particularly useful response, wasn't it?

I saw a video years ago called B and E A to Z, all about how to get into
places you don't have a key for. What an eye-opener, it showed most
residential locks to be a complete joke so far as even a slightly
experienced burglar is concerned. In addition a series of businesses I
worked for were burglarized and that was highly educational as well--a
steel-clad door barred from the inside doesn't matter much when they pry
off a vent cover into the phone/electrical room and then cut through the
wall with a battery-powered saw.

The thing about burglars is they look at a locked door in a totally
different way than a law-abiding citizen. If you don't have a key you
think you can't open that door, but a burglar thinks of the five ways he
knows to open that door without a key. One of the simplest is to cut a
chunk out of the door frame around the bolt so the door can be opened
still locked with the bolt uselessly still in place--a hammer and chisel
or a reciprocating saw renders even the best deadbolt pointless in moments
if the door frame is that easy to get through.

As others have suggested whether or not the lock is pick-resistant is of
less importance than how well the door and windows resist simple
brute-force methods since you're far more likely to encounter a meth-head
with a pry-bar than a cat-burglar with safe-cracking experience. In that
regard your alarm is already your best defense, as even a meth-head will
see the alarm sign and keep on going.

All too true.
I am a retired Fire Chief. I spent 33 years on the job and as a rookie I
rode a ladder truck. We were the guys with the axes.
But in order to keep damage to a minimum, believe it or not, G we tried a
variety of different ways to gain entry other than extreme measures.
There are ways the average homeowner would never imagine.

Max

Max wrote:
Um..... Am I being presumptuous to assume that you're about to tell
me how to overcome those other deficiencies?
------------------
Not at all, but locks keep honest people honest.

Beyond that, they are about as useful as a set of breasts on a boar
hog.

If somebody wants in, they are coming in.

If it takes them more than 5 minutes to rob you blind, they are
probably going to get caught.

Plan accordingly.

Lew

wrote

Few thieves want your pictures. Collectables should have insurance
riders. In
most areas, and all I'd live in, fire is a bigger risk than burglaries.
That
said, I have been burglarized once but have never had a fire loss.


I have "scheduled" coverage for the collectibles but most of them are
irreplaceable.
And most burglaries result in damage to furnishings.
Most of our furnishings are products of my workshop. Need I say more. G
I live in El Paso, TX. We have a Class 1 FD (the highest rating)
I'm not worried about a fire. The burglary risk is higher. Juarez, Mexico
is just across the river....er..... the stream...er.....often just the river
bed.
In truth, the burglary risk is relatively low, especially considering the
location/environment.
El Paso has a very low crime rate.
But:
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

Max

"J. Clarke" wrote

, Max wrote:

I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.



LOL. A mannequin might be a good idea too.

Max

wrote

A sign in the front lawn pointing out the neighbor who doesn't believe in
second-amendment rights and indicating that you will respect his wishes
and
not to use guns on his property, might work too.


LOL. This thread has resulted in some very interesting information.

Max

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
Max wrote:
Um..... Am I being presumptuous to assume that you're about to tell me
how to overcome those other deficiencies?
------------------
Not at all, but locks keep honest people honest.

Beyond that, they are about as useful as a set of breasts on a boar hog.

If somebody wants in, they are coming in.

If it takes them more than 5 minutes to rob you blind, they are probably
going to get caught.

Plan accordingly.

Lew





Put the good stuff close to the front door? G

Max

Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

Why do you want to do this?
1. Protect your property while you're gone;
2. Protect yourself while you're there;
3. Both #1 and #2;
4. Cosmetic.

If #1, consider burglar bars and doors.
If #2, a 12-gauge would be cheaper.

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask
anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases,
I'll spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security.
("bumpproof", pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max


Consider the Kwikset deadbolt with the numeric keypad. You can
set it to automatically extend the deadbolt after some time
interval, it's now self-handing and there's an LED to let you know
the door's locked. I have the older model, which is great, but
the newer one is smaller on the interior, easier to install and
works fine. The key cylinder for Kwikset can also be mastered to
any suitable key by the installer with no need for a locksmith.

I also second the thought that if a burglar wants in, he'll get
in. However, the goal is to slow them down and force them to make
as much noise as possible. With enough hassle facing him, he'll
just go next door. With that in mind, I install my deadbolts and
strike plates using long, hardened screws that go well into the
crip. All you need to do is be careful to not overtighten them
and warp the casing.

I once thought of Schlage as being good- better than Kwikset- but
changed that misconception after installing 5 of their exterior
door sets and deadbolts on my home in Raleigh. Within a couple
years, the brass had turned black. I contacted Schlage and their
attitude was, "Tough Luck, you're out of warranty. How about
buying our NEW coated brass sets, which will never darken?" The
words, Push, Cram and Shove came to mind. Grin

--
Nonny
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..

On Sat, 1 May 2010 13:35:31 -0700, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote:

Max wrote:
Um..... Am I being presumptuous to assume that you're about to tell
me how to overcome those other deficiencies?
------------------
Not at all, but locks keep honest people honest.

They also make insurance companies happy.

Beyond that, they are about as useful as a set of breasts on a boar
hog.

If somebody wants in, they are coming in.

If it takes them more than 5 minutes to rob you blind, they are
probably going to get caught.

Yes, they tend to be cowards, also. If your neighbor's house is an easier
target, that's where they'll go. Make yours less attractive (to them) and
that's where good locks come in.

Plan accordingly.

Right. Look at your neighborhood. If they all have bars on the windows,
move!

On Sat, 01 May 2010 09:58:07 -0500, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

On 5/1/2010 9:35 AM, Douglas Johnson wrote:
wrote:

"Dave wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

Cool. BUT, I don't see why that guy was afraid of the little .22, do
you? Maybe it was the loud noise it made which sent him back out of
the house. He thought "Damn, that'll rouse the neighbors to call
police.", I'll bet. He looked big enough to handle all 6 shots and
keep on comin'.

P.S: Goodonya, Aunt Bea!

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

On Sat, 01 May 2010 09:40:19 -0500, the infamous Douglas Johnson
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

The sliding glass door was shattered with a 30 pound rock in the
middle of the day, in broad daylight in a close neighborhood. None of
the retired neighbors (as close as 40' away) heard a thing. Amazing.

The rule I've heard is that you can get away with a single loud noise. People
might say "What's that?" but usually won't investigate. That slider breaking
will probably just be a sharp crack sound that could be anything. -- Doug

Haven't you ever heard a large window breaking? It goes on for
several seconds with loud tinkling sounds. It's damned noisy.
Kicking a door in is one loud, low thud and it's over. No way to
triangulate noise, but the window should have lasted long enough to
locate, if anyone was in earshot. shrug

Gloria never did get her $12,000 diamond ring back.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

On Sat, 01 May 2010 16:06:19 -0400, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

On 5/1/2010 11:57 AM, Max wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.

That's good and scary. vbg

http://fwd4.me/MI1 I like this sign, too.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

On Sat, 01 May 2010 09:13:52 -0700, the infamous Evodawg
scrawled the following:

Max wrote:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max
Did a job a few months back where the owner did extensive research on Locks
and windows. Most of the Alarm Companies said most of the burglaries
occurred at the front door, specially double doors with window. Kick in the
door or break the window. Second windows opened and only protected by a
screen. The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.

I've seen double mag-sensored windows, where the window can be opened
to the second sensor. If disturbed when the alarm is set, the alarm
goes off.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

On Sat, 1 May 2010 14:53:30 -0600, the infamous "Max"
scrawled the following:

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
.. .
Max wrote:
Um..... Am I being presumptuous to assume that you're about to tell me
how to overcome those other deficiencies?
------------------
Not at all, but locks keep honest people honest.

Beyond that, they are about as useful as a set of breasts on a boar hog.

If somebody wants in, they are coming in.

If it takes them more than 5 minutes to rob you blind, they are probably
going to get caught.

Plan accordingly.

Put the good stuff close to the front door? G

And they break in, see that, and immediately think "Wow, if this stuff
is just lying around, I wonder where he keeps the really good stuff!"


--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

Morris Dovey wrote:

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

Granny rocks. But some target practice and a heavier caliber would be a good
idea. -- Doug

" wrote:

A good, current, insurance policy is a higher priority, IMO.

Bingo. -- Doug

Evodawg wrote:
The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.

Those have been around since the 80's to my certain knowledge. I thought about
buying them when I was having an alarm installed in a house I owned then. They
were really expensive, so I didn't. -- Doug