This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Max" writes:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Best" or "medco" brands.

scott

"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message
.. .
"Max" writes:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

"Best" or "medco" brands.

scott


Checking them out.
Thanks, Scott

Max

"Max" wrote in
:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max


No specific recommendations, but you may want to watch out for a feature
called "Easy Out" or "Call the locksmith (again)." The interior handle
turns freely to open the door, but doesn't release the lock or give any
indication the door was locked. As soon as you shut the door, you're
locked out.

Locks seem to be one of those things that once you hit a certain price
point you stop paying for quality and start paying for style. (And you
may not get the same quality for a higher style lock.)

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max Slagg brand. (spelling?) Is supposed to be bump proof. That is what I
have. BUT They will lock you out if you leave in locked setting but will
let you out. WW

"WW" wrote in message
. ..

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max Slagg brand. (spelling?) Is supposed to be bump proof. That is what I
have. BUT They will lock you out if you leave in locked setting but will
let you out. WW




I Googled that and ended up with "Schlage Max". Looks promising.
Thanks.

Max

In article ,
Max wrote:

I Googled that and ended up with "Schlage Max". Looks promising.
Thanks.


Schlage is onwe of the better basic residential-grade lock mechansims.
There are several others at roughly comparable prices that are equally
good. Go to a professional locksmith shop and see what they sell for *BASIC*
locks.

Note: about all that 'higher security' (Note: *NOT* true "HIGH security")
locks like MEDCO buy you is that someone who gets their hands (temporarily)
on you keys will have a very difficult time copying it.

For basic business use the standard of reference for base-level security
is the Yale brand.

To _rationally_ go beyond anything of that level, one needs to spend
time considering, and 'hardening against attack' the -oter- possible
means of ingress. e.g. things like security bars on the windows, and
metal entry doors set in metal frames.

The single *biggest* thing you can do for home security is to _not_ use
a clock mechanism where the lock is integral to the door-knob. Regardless
of the quality oft he lock mechanism, those are defeatable with a simple
pipe wrench.

Comment: the _first_ step in any kind of security/defense plan is to
quantify the type of _threat_ you are attempting to protect against.
Doing that gives you a *LOT* of information with regard to establishing
what you need to do for protection.

Some basic threat classes:
1) the -property- is a 'target of opportunity' -- the bad guy is 'just
passing by' and decides to see if he can break in. It is generally
"sufficient" to be 'more difficult than nearby properties' to break
into.
2) -you- are a 'target of opportunity' -- someone gets ahold of (or copies)
your keys and decides to 'see what can be seen'. This is where
copy-resistant keys like MEDCO are very effective.
3) You, or your property, are selected 'with malice aforethought' as the
target of a WELL-PLANNED, carefully directed (and executed), attack.
Nothing short of a full-time professional security force will so much
as slow these kinds of attackers down.

In article unications, (Robert Bonomi) wrote:
[...]
The single *biggest* thing you can do for home security is to _not_ use
a clock mechanism where the lock is integral to the door-knob.

I respectfully disagree. IMHO, the single biggest thing you can do for home
security is to own a dog.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article unications,
(Robert Bonomi) wrote:
[...]
The single *biggest* thing you can do for home security is to _not_ use
a clock mechanism where the lock is integral to the door-knob.

I respectfully disagree. IMHO, the single biggest thing you can do for
home
security is to own a dog.


I have a dog. She's a watch dog. She would only "watch" if someone broke
in.
If I'm at home, the single biggest thing to deter a burglar is me and my
Smith & Wesson .40
And just to discourage someone from asking, "But would you use it if the
time came?" let me point out that I spent a year with the 1st. Cavalry
Division, 1950-'51. "From the Naktong to the Yalu".

Max (I need an "aggressive" dog)

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
communications...
In article ,
Max wrote:

I Googled that and ended up with "Schlage Max". Looks
promising.
Thanks.


Schlage is onwe of the better basic residential-grade lock
mechansims.
There are several others at roughly comparable prices that are
equally
good. Go to a professional locksmith shop and see what they sell
for *BASIC*
locks.

Note: about all that 'higher security' (Note: *NOT* true "HIGH
security")
locks like MEDCO buy you is that someone who gets their hands
(temporarily)
on you keys will have a very difficult time copying it.

For basic business use the standard of reference for base-level
security
is the Yale brand.

To _rationally_ go beyond anything of that level, one needs to
spend
time considering, and 'hardening against attack' the -oter-
possible
means of ingress. e.g. things like security bars on the
windows, and
metal entry doors set in metal frames.

The single *biggest* thing you can do for home security is to
_not_ use
a clock mechanism where the lock is integral to the door-knob.
Regardless
of the quality oft he lock mechanism, those are defeatable with
a simple
pipe wrench.

Comment: the _first_ step in any kind of security/defense plan
is to
quantify the type of _threat_ you are attempting to protect
against.
Doing that gives you a *LOT* of information with regard to
establishing
what you need to do for protection.

Some basic threat classes:
1) the -property- is a 'target of opportunity' -- the bad guy
is 'just
passing by' and decides to see if he can break in. It is
generally
"sufficient" to be 'more difficult than nearby properties'
to break
into.
2) -you- are a 'target of opportunity' -- someone gets ahold of
(or copies)
your keys and decides to 'see what can be seen'. This is
where
copy-resistant keys like MEDCO are very effective.
3) You, or your property, are selected 'with malice
aforethought' as the
target of a WELL-PLANNED, carefully directed (and executed),
attack.
Nothing short of a full-time professional security force
will so much
as slow these kinds of attackers down.



Where we live, most home burglaries are done as targets of
opportunity. In even a residential neighborhood, a home gets
rented out and soon fills with "economically deprived" souls.
Soon, it's time to make a rent payment, buy some drugs, pay the
dealer or get gasoline for the pickup, and a couple of them will
locate an apparently empty house, toss a rock through the patio
door and grab what they can easily carry away and readily sell.
The sales take place at flea markets, pawn shops and the
improvised stores found in the more traditional neighborhoods for
these poor, suffering souls.

Most of the burglaries take place in homes where the home is
viewable from a public area- which is how it's selected. One
exception is the day laborers used by landscape maintenance crews,
painters and other contractors visiting a neighborhood.
Gated communities have a slight advantage, since even if a car
follows you in thorough the gate, it's something a neighbor might
see. Guard gated communities have a real advantage there, along
with registration of all visitors and videotapes of the people
inside the autos. Nothing is perfect. For instance, we have
friends in a very nice home. To get there, we have to be admitted
by a guard via the guard gate and the site is videotaped from
different angles. We then drive through the subdivision and are
faced with an electronic second gate. There, we either have to
enter the code or call the guard house to have the gate opened.
Once inside that subcompound, we reach our friend's home.

Did I mention that the home backs up to a public, yes PUBLIC golf
courses? Yup, we sit in our friend's back yard, by their pool,
and look over the 3' wrought iron fence and speak to the golfers
waiting to tee off on the 8th hole. How's that for security?
grin

Homes in the interior of a subdivision are far less likely to be
hit than a home adjoining a fence between it and a street,
sidewalk, park or other accessible area. For a house to have a
lock picked or even the door forced would be exceptional. Here,
it's almost always a smash, grab and run situation. Usually, the
burglars are too high on drugs or just too plain stupid to realize
that many homeowners now have cameras. However, the physical
presence of a camera or "Monitored Alarm" stickers on windows and
doors probably help them decide to go see your neighbor instead of
you.

We have also had a rash of home invasions in town. There, the
intruders have almost universally picked homes with opened doors
that were visible from driving down a street.

Personally, I follow the rule of keeping exterior doors locked and
window locked, except for ventilation. We have sun screens, so
opened windows are not visible. . . particularly at night.
However, I don't go nuts and put on $400 locksets to the front
door, since I know that any patio door or window would be the
entryway of choice for a thief of opportunity. One possibility
that some might consider is the heavy (tint/reflectivity optional)
window films that can be applied to glass. They're just a heavier
duty version of the normal window films, but WILL stop a guy using
a rock or hammer to open the glass door. Nothing's perfect, but
the guy's not going to want to stand there pounding on the door.

In our case, we have the typical alarm system, including IR
detectors, door and window switches and fire. I personally
installed several 140dBa sirens INSIDE the house. One is near
electronic equipment, another in the garage where I have my tools
and the third by our master BR and my office. Trust me, when
those suckers sound off, nobody hangs around. They won't stop an
entry, but will sure make it miserable for the burglar to go
rummaging around.

--
Nonny
On most days,
it’s just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..

On May 3, 1:44*pm, "Nonny" wrote:
"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message

snip

Most of the burglaries take place in homes where the home is
viewable from a public area- which is how it's selected. *One
exception is the day laborers used by landscape maintenance crews,
painters and other contractors visiting a neighborhood.
Gated communities have a slight advantage, since even if a car
follows you in thorough the gate, it's something a neighbor might
see. *Guard gated communities have a real advantage there, along
with registration of all visitors and videotapes of the people
inside the autos. *Nothing is perfect. *For instance, we have
friends in a very nice home. *To get there, we have to be admitted
by a guard via the guard gate and the site is videotaped from
different angles. *We then drive through the subdivision and are
faced with an electronic second gate. *There, we either have to
enter the code or call the guard house to have the gate opened.
Once inside that subcompound, we reach our friend's home.

Did I mention that the home backs up to a public, yes PUBLIC golf
courses? *Yup, we sit in our friend's back yard, by their pool,
and look over the 3' wrought iron fence and speak to the golfers
waiting to tee off on the 8th hole. *How's that for security?

Are you insinuating that golfers are dishonest?

On 4/30/2010 5:51 PM, Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Have you rendered your doors and windows resistant to likely levels of
force? If not then you need to do that before you have to worry about
whether your locks can be picked--most intruders don't pick locks, they
break something.

If you're really concerned about bumping then call a locksmith and have
him rekey your existing locks with bumproof cylinders. It will likely
be cheaper than replacing them all with bumproof locks.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 4/30/2010 5:51 PM, Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Have you rendered your doors and windows resistant to likely levels of
force?

To the extent that I could without going to metal doors. They're all solid
core doors and fairly "hefty".

If not then you need to do that before you have to worry about whether your
locks can be picked--most intruders don't pick locks, they break something.

If you're really concerned about bumping then call a locksmith and have
him rekey your existing locks with bumproof cylinders. It will likely be
cheaper than replacing them all with bumproof locks.

I really need to replace the locksets anyway; they're 24 years old, much
used and "builder quality".
The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

On May 1, 9:07*am, "Max" wrote:

The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

Just a couple of thoughts here. If you look at the Medeco or Best
brands, you will find that a lockset or deadbolt will run about $200
for each unit. i have installed hundreds of the Medeco, but no Best
branded locks. The Medecos are top flight, but they retain a definite
commercial appearance as that is their market.

If you go the commercial route, make sure you check out the
installation instructions. Most of them are box style locks, and you
will either need some real time and patience to install them, or rent/
buy a deep mortise machine. For the most part these are not locks
that you remove the old lock and simply screw a new one of them in the
old holes.

Through all the years of installing Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwins, Ball,
Yale and a slew of Chinese stuff, I like the Schlage for their price
point. As I have said before, I used to have a contract with a local
company to install their doors, and I have put a lot of Schlage
product on. Never had a service or warranty call. Their newer
finishes on their polished brass (starting about 5 years ago) hold up
great.

The upper line has a good finish on it in polished nickel, oiled
bronze, etc., that lasts well. The mechanicals are solid on their
hardware. Make sure you get a deadbolt that has a 1" throw.

I put Schlage on my house about 27 years ago, and the front door lock
still works smooth as silk. The only maintenance I have ever done on
the lock was to take it out and clean it and re-oil it after every ten
year mark.

The most important thing with any lock is the installation. I get
good service out of the stainless steel generic brands ("Defender",
"Titan" and such) for sheds, landlord repairs, etc., because I take
the time to adjust the lock to work properly.

A lock is working properly when you can close the door easily with one
finger and all you get is a "click". The deadbolt works correctly if
you turn the key and can barely feel the plunger assembly move.

The best additional security I do for my clients is to change out the
screws in the jamb side of the mortise. Instead of using the 5/8"
supplied screws, I get 2 1/2" screws in cadmium to install the strike
plates for both locksets and deadbolts. It takes an incredible amount
of energy to get those out of the jamb with brute force.

Good luck!

Robert

wrote in message
...
On May 1, 9:07 am, "Max" wrote:

The deadbolts are still in good shape and I thought I would have them
re-keyed to accept the same key as the new entry locksets.
That would entail getting the same brand as the original so I might go the
expense of replacing both.

Max (still pondering)

Just a couple of thoughts here. If you look at the Medeco or Best
brands, you will find that a lockset or deadbolt will run about $200
for each unit. i have installed hundreds of the Medeco, but no Best
branded locks. The Medecos are top flight, but they retain a definite
commercial appearance as that is their market.

If you go the commercial route, make sure you check out the
installation instructions. Most of them are box style locks, and you
will either need some real time and patience to install them, or rent/
buy a deep mortise machine. For the most part these are not locks
that you remove the old lock and simply screw a new one of them in the
old holes.

Through all the years of installing Schlage, Kwickset, Baldwins, Ball,
Yale and a slew of Chinese stuff, I like the Schlage for their price
point. As I have said before, I used to have a contract with a local
company to install their doors, and I have put a lot of Schlage
product on. Never had a service or warranty call. Their newer
finishes on their polished brass (starting about 5 years ago) hold up
great.

The upper line has a good finish on it in polished nickel, oiled
bronze, etc., that lasts well. The mechanicals are solid on their
hardware. Make sure you get a deadbolt that has a 1" throw.

I put Schlage on my house about 27 years ago, and the front door lock
still works smooth as silk. The only maintenance I have ever done on
the lock was to take it out and clean it and re-oil it after every ten
year mark.

The most important thing with any lock is the installation. I get
good service out of the stainless steel generic brands ("Defender",
"Titan" and such) for sheds, landlord repairs, etc., because I take
the time to adjust the lock to work properly.

A lock is working properly when you can close the door easily with one
finger and all you get is a "click". The deadbolt works correctly if
you turn the key and can barely feel the plunger assembly move.

The best additional security I do for my clients is to change out the
screws in the jamb side of the mortise. Instead of using the 5/8"
supplied screws, I get 2 1/2" screws in cadmium to install the strike
plates for both locksets and deadbolts. It takes an incredible amount
of energy to get those out of the jamb with brute force.

Good luck!

Robert

Bingo!! Just the sort of info I was seeking. Robert, you are a treasure.

Sometimes a guy comes here looking for advice when he has already made
up...well somewhere between 50 and 90 percent...of his mind but would really
like some confirmation.
My many thanks,

Max

"Max" wrote in message
...

Bingo!! Just the sort of info I was seeking. Robert, you are a treasure.

Sometimes a guy comes here looking for advice when he has already made
up...well somewhere between 50 and 90 percent...of his mind but would
really like some confirmation.
My many thanks,

Max

That was a particularly useful response, wasn't it?

I saw a video years ago called B and E A to Z, all about how to get into
places you don't have a key for. What an eye-opener, it showed most
residential locks to be a complete joke so far as even a slightly
experienced burglar is concerned. In addition a series of businesses I
worked for were burglarized and that was highly educational as well--a
steel-clad door barred from the inside doesn't matter much when they pry off
a vent cover into the phone/electrical room and then cut through the wall
with a battery-powered saw.

The thing about burglars is they look at a locked door in a totally
different way than a law-abiding citizen. If you don't have a key you think
you can't open that door, but a burglar thinks of the five ways he knows to
open that door without a key. One of the simplest is to cut a chunk out of
the door frame around the bolt so the door can be opened still locked with
the bolt uselessly still in place--a hammer and chisel or a reciprocating
saw renders even the best deadbolt pointless in moments if the door frame is
that easy to get through.

As others have suggested whether or not the lock is pick-resistant is of
less importance than how well the door and windows resist simple brute-force
methods since you're far more likely to encounter a meth-head with a pry-bar
than a cat-burglar with safe-cracking experience. In that regard your alarm
is already your best defense, as even a meth-head will see the alarm sign
and keep on going.

On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb

"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we travel
quite a bit.

Max

On 5/1/2010 11:57 AM, Max wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.

"J. Clarke" wrote

, Max wrote:

I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.



LOL. A mannequin might be a good idea too.

Max

On Sat, 01 May 2010 16:06:19 -0400, the infamous "J. Clarke"
scrawled the following:

On 5/1/2010 11:57 AM, Max wrote:
"notbob" wrote in message
...
On 2010-04-30, Max wrote:

Any recommendations?

Get a gun-owner-lives-here sticker.

nb


I have a little sticker on the most obvious front window that says,
"Protected by Smith & Wesson".
It's next to the alarm co. sticker.
The Smith & Wesson is a 40 S&W. It's kept loaded. (no kids at home)
I'm not deeply concerned with a home intrusion while I'm here but we
travel quite a bit.

One guy I knew added a fired target. A human torso shaped target with
the groin shot out.

That's good and scary. vbg

http://fwd4.me/MI1 I like this sign, too.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

Max wrote:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max
Did a job a few months back where the owner did extensive research on Locks
and windows. Most of the Alarm Companies said most of the burglaries
occurred at the front door, specially double doors with window. Kick in the
door or break the window. Second windows opened and only protected by a
screen. The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.


--
You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK !
Mandriva 2010 using KDE 4.3
Website: www.rentmyhusband.biz

On Sat, 01 May 2010 09:13:52 -0700, the infamous Evodawg
scrawled the following:

Max wrote:

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max
Did a job a few months back where the owner did extensive research on Locks
and windows. Most of the Alarm Companies said most of the burglaries
occurred at the front door, specially double doors with window. Kick in the
door or break the window. Second windows opened and only protected by a
screen. The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.

I've seen double mag-sensored windows, where the window can be opened
to the second sensor. If disturbed when the alarm is set, the alarm
goes off.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

Evodawg wrote:
The owner is an engineer and he himself developed a screen that has
very small signal wires running through it. When the screen is removed or
cut it breaks a very small current and triggers the alarm. His concern was
at night when it was cool and he wanted to leave his windows opened, also
didn't want the window to trigger alarm every time you opened and closed
windows. Think he's in the process of patenting it.

Those have been around since the 80's to my certain knowledge. I thought about
buying them when I was having an alarm installed in a house I owned then. They
were really expensive, so I didn't. -- Doug

Max wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll
spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof",
pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

Why do you want to do this?
1. Protect your property while you're gone;
2. Protect yourself while you're there;
3. Both #1 and #2;
4. Cosmetic.

If #1, consider burglar bars and doors.
If #2, a 12-gauge would be cheaper.

"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask
anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases,
I'll spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security.
("bumpproof", pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max


Consider the Kwikset deadbolt with the numeric keypad. You can
set it to automatically extend the deadbolt after some time
interval, it's now self-handing and there's an LED to let you know
the door's locked. I have the older model, which is great, but
the newer one is smaller on the interior, easier to install and
works fine. The key cylinder for Kwikset can also be mastered to
any suitable key by the installer with no need for a locksmith.

I also second the thought that if a burglar wants in, he'll get
in. However, the goal is to slow them down and force them to make
as much noise as possible. With enough hassle facing him, he'll
just go next door. With that in mind, I install my deadbolts and
strike plates using long, hardened screws that go well into the
crip. All you need to do is be careful to not overtighten them
and warp the casing.

I once thought of Schlage as being good- better than Kwikset- but
changed that misconception after installing 5 of their exterior
door sets and deadbolts on my home in Raleigh. Within a couple
years, the brass had turned black. I contacted Schlage and their
attitude was, "Tough Luck, you're out of warranty. How about
buying our NEW coated brass sets, which will never darken?" The
words, Push, Cram and Shove came to mind. Grin

--
Nonny
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..

On May 1, 5:07*pm, "Nonny" wrote:
"Max" wrote in message

...

This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so
impressed with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask
anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases,
I'll spend whatever it takes to assure reasonable security.
("bumpproof", pick resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

Consider the Kwikset deadbolt with the numeric keypad. *You can
set it to automatically extend the deadbolt after some time
interval, it's now self-handing and there's an LED to let you know
the door's locked. *I have the older model, which is great, but
the newer one is smaller on the interior, easier to install and
works fine. *The key cylinder for Kwikset can also be mastered to
any suitable key by the installer with no need for a locksmith.

I also second the thought that if a burglar wants in, he'll get
in. *However, the goal is to slow them down and force them to make
as much noise as possible. *With enough hassle facing him, he'll
just go next door. *With that in mind, I install my deadbolts and
strike plates using long, hardened screws that go well into the
crip. *All you need to do is be careful to not overtighten them
and warp the casing.

I once thought of Schlage as being good- better than Kwikset- but
changed that misconception after installing 5 of their exterior
door sets and deadbolts on my home in Raleigh. *Within a couple
years, the brass had turned black. *I contacted Schlage and their
attitude was, "Tough Luck, you're out of warranty. *How about
buying our NEW coated brass sets, which will never darken?" *The
words, Push, Cram and Shove came to mind. Grin

--
Nonny
On most days,
it's just not worth
the effort of chewing
through the restraints..

"Consider the Kwikset deadbolt with the numeric keypad."

I just installed one of them a few weeks ago. So far, I love it.

I rarely used my front door in the last 20 years since I don't like to
carry anything more than my car key and fob. My work building and
office unlock with a card key - I just flash the wallet - and my
garage has it's own keypad.

Now that I have the push button lockset, I use the front door much
more regularly.

I had heard that you had to be more precise when installing these
locks, but I'm certainly no locksmith and had no problem. The entry
door I installed was pre-bored for the handle set, both door and jamb,
but only the door was pre-bored for the deadbolt. After adjusting the
handle set for the "one finger click" mentioned elsewhere in this
thread, I bored the jamb for the deadbolt and it operates as smooth as
can be.

One button locks the deadbolt on the way out, and a 5 digit code
unlocks. Sweet!

The best I found was Abloy.
But it is very commercial looking.




"Max" wrote in message
...
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

On Apr 30, 5:51*pm, "Max" wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

6 normal dead bolts. In a row. Lock 3. If they are pickers, they'll be
unlocking the locked 3 and locking the unlocked ones....that could
take a while.

On 5/3/2010 1:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:

6 normal dead bolts. In a row. Lock 3. If they are pickers, they'll be
unlocking the locked 3 and locking the unlocked ones....that could
take a while.

ROTFLMAO ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Mon, 03 May 2010 13:37:24 -0500, Swingman wrote
the following:

On 5/3/2010 1:34 PM, Robatoy wrote:

6 normal dead bolts. In a row. Lock 3. If they are pickers, they'll be
unlocking the locked 3 and locking the unlocked ones....that could
take a while.

ROTFLMAO ...

Isn't that what Whoopi Goldberg did in "Burglar" last century?

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Apr 30, 5:51 pm, "Max" wrote:
This is likely not the appropriate NG to be asking but I'm so impressed
with
the knowledge here (G) that I thought I'd ask anyway.
I want to replace all the exterior door locksets and deadbolts.
I've read a few "reviews" on some but what say you all?
I don't want to spend a fortune but like most of my purchases, I'll spend
whatever it takes to assure reasonable security. ("bumpproof", pick
resistant, etc)
Any recommendations?

Max

6 normal dead bolts. In a row. Lock 3. If they are pickers, they'll be
unlocking the locked 3 and locking the unlocked ones....that could
take a while.


I'm wondering whether a "set-gun" might be a solution.

Max (if they just weren't illegal)

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Max

"Max" wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

"Douglas Johnson" wrote in message
...
"Max" wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life.
Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong
plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws
in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug


I *think* I've pretty well covered those categories but I appreciate your
emphasis on them.
There are other measures I've taken as well; the burglar alarm, exterior
lighting, shrubbery kept trimmed.
Good relationships with neighbors. G A dog (albeit a somewhat friendly
one) whose bark is bigger than her bite.

Max

On 5/1/2010 9:35 AM, Douglas Johnson wrote:
wrote:

"Dave wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Sat, 01 May 2010 09:58:07 -0500, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

On 5/1/2010 9:35 AM, Douglas Johnson wrote:
wrote:

"Dave wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life. Think
"kick resistant". You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. -- Doug

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

Cool. BUT, I don't see why that guy was afraid of the little .22, do
you? Maybe it was the loud noise it made which sent him back out of
the house. He thought "Damn, that'll rouse the neighbors to call
police.", I'll bet. He looked big enough to handle all 6 shots and
keep on comin'.

P.S: Goodonya, Aunt Bea!

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
-- Raymond Lindquist

Morris Dovey wrote:

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

Granny rocks. But some target practice and a heavier caliber would be a good
idea. -- Doug

On May 1, 10:58*am, Morris Dovey wrote:
On 5/1/2010 9:35 AM, Douglas Johnson wrote:

*wrote:

"Dave *wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

Your typical residental burgler couldn't pick a lock to save their life.. *Think
"kick resistant". *You want a good long deadbolt that sets into a strong plate
with screws that go deep into the framing. *Don't forget good long screws in the
hinges. *Even then, you are just slowing them down a few seconds. *-- Doug

Speaking of "kick resistant", you might get a kick out of this recent
story...

* *http://www.kcci.com/news/23208133/detail.html

"And the police reloaded it for me"

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

I love a story with a happy ending.

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:300420102033464157%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
In article , Max
wrote:

"Dave Balderstone" wrote

Locks are to keep your friends out. No lock is pick or bump proof.

"Resistant"?

30 seconds instead of 10?

If someone wants in, they're coming in.


Quite right. I only wish to *discourage* them.
I have a burglar alarm. Some thieves simply go door to door to see if
someone left a door unlocked.
My purpose in posting my inquiry was to see if anyone might have some
*worthwhile* contribution.
Scott Lurndal did.
But thanks for your wisdom. Even if it's in the category of *DUH".

Max