I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

On Jan 9, 12:44*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? *This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brianwww.garagewoodworks.com

get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as
a template
shelly

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:090120101232560780%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...

www.garagewoodworks.com

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

See also http://www.plansnow.com/100108download.html

the beauty to the Rockler jig is that the bit is self centering and does
not/has not damaged the holes in 12 years od use.

On 1/9/2010 11:44 AM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.


Done it every way possible, both drill and router.

I'm with Leon ... the Rockler jig, or a similar brand, with the vix bit,
is the cat's meow. I've made similar one's out of plexiglass and 1/4 mdf
on the drill press in a pinch.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

On Jan 9, 1:57*pm, Swingman wrote:
On 1/9/2010 11:44 AM, GarageWoodworks wrote:

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Done it every way possible, both drill and router.

I'm with Leon ... the Rockler jig, or a similar brand, with the vix bit,
is the cat's meow. I've made similar one's out of plexiglass and 1/4 mdf
on the drill press in a pinch.

--www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

I use to have a Rockler here down the street, but they closed up
shop. :^(
I need to place an order for next time.

On Jan 9, 12:58*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? *This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. *I have been using this jig for about 12 years. *comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. *Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

What are your thoughts on the 1/4" dowel. Should do it right?

On Jan 9, 12:54*pm, wrote:
On Jan 9, 12:44*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? *This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brianwww.garagewoodworks.com

get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as
a template
shelly

Nice. Neat idea. Hmmmm.

GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

I prefer steel KV clips.

As far as the holes go, I use a plunge router with a 1/4" bit and a 3/8
bushing. Years ago I carefully laid out a hole spacing pattern and drilled
3/8" holes with a drill press in a piece of 1/2" mel board. That board has
overlaps on the edge to register it the desired distance on whatever I am
making holes in. I've used it for 1000s of holes.

I prefer a router to a drill because the holes wind up perpendicular without
any effort. It is also fast...turn on router, release plunge clamp, stick
in hole, push down, lift up, move to next hole.

I used 1/2" mel board to keep router bit length to a mimimum. Over the
years, the holes have become a bit edge rounded from the bushing insertions
but that doesn't matter as the interior of the hole is fine.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On 1/9/2010 11:44 AM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.


Done it every way possible, both drill and router.

I'm with Leon ... the Rockler jig, or a similar brand, with the vix bit,
is the cat's meow. I've made similar one's out of plexiglass and 1/4 mdf
on the drill press in a pinch.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
On Jan 9, 12:58 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message

...

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many
cases.http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

What are your thoughts on the 1/4" dowel. Should do it right?


Yes you can use a dowel but I use the 1/4" hooks.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...r=shelf%20pins

They will not fall out when the shelf is in place and most of the pin does
not show.

In article , "Leon" wrote:

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

Not only that.... if that one isn't large enough, if you have a drill press
with a table, you can make your own. Make a jig to make a jig: set the fence
to, say, 2" from the bit, set a piece of scrap plywood against the fence, and
drill a hole in it the size of the collar on your Vix bit. (For a 1/4" bit,
that's 3/8".) Move the plywood by the distance you want between the shelf pin
holes, and clamp it to the table. This is your jig for making a jig.

Now lay the actual jig over the plywood, and position it where you want the
first shelf-pin hole to be. Drill. Put a 3/8" dowel in the first hole you
drilled in the plywood. Slide the jig over, and slip the hole you just drilled
in it over the dowel in the plywood. Drill another hole. Repeat.

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 11:58:17 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig



That's the one we use. We didn't think we would use it much but
bought it because it wasn't a whole lot more than just buying the self
centering bit. We use it all the time. We also made a longer one out
of 1/4" plexi for use on tall bookcases that takes the same Rockler
bits. It saves a little time over re-setting the Jig-It 2 or 3 times
on a side.

Mike O.

On Jan 9, 12:44*pm, GarageWoodworks
wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? *This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brianwww.garagewoodworks.com

Our fine folks at FastCap sell adhesive tape with 32 mm marks printed
on it. Handy if you don't have a lot of them to do.

On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 09:54:11 -0800, smandel wrote:

On Jan 9, 12:44Â*pm, GarageWoodworks wrote:

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. Â*I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.



get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as a
template

Yes, but be careful. I once used a piece and found out a row here and
there were a little off. Must have slipped during the drilling process.
Not a problem if you know about it but I only found out when done :-(.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 1/9/2010 11:54 AM, wrote:

get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as
a template
shelly

Only in a dire emergency ... not only will the holes wear out quickly
from drilling and become inaccurate, but there are not necessary
consistent in level.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Leon" wrote:

Or last weapon of choice since NYW is done. I recall him using a
large aluminum jig and plunging the router in each hole... I'd
rather not be lifting the router that much.

I made his earlier version using a piece of 9 ply birch.

HEAVY.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote:

Or last weapon of choice since NYW is done. I recall him using a large
aluminum jig and plunging the router in each hole... I'd rather not be
lifting the router that much.

I made his earlier version using a piece of 9 ply birch.

HEAVY.

Lew


The nice advantage to getting away from the router and using a drill is that
you can go to any location and add holes after assembly if necessary. I
have had customers ask me to add shelves to areas already built in in their
homes. The Rockler set up with a drill make it a simple task.

On 1/9/2010 12:38 PM, Leon wrote:
"Dave wrote in message
news:090120101232560780%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...

www.garagewoodworks.com

This is relatively inexpensive and much simpler than using a router like
Norm uses. I have been using this jig for about 12 years. comes with a
special Vix type bit that IIRC uses a brad point style bit. Can be used
before or after assembly in many cases.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=shelf%20jig

See alsohttp://www.plansnow.com/100108download.html

the beauty to the Rockler jig is that the bit is self centering and does
not/has not damaged the holes in 12 years od use.

I have the Rockler jig too. Works like a champ.

--
"Even if your wife is happy but you're unhappy, you're still happier
than you'd be if you were happy and your wife was unhappy." - Red Green
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"GarageWoodworks" wrote in message
...
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

I also have the Rockler one. Works great. I just use my battery drill. WW

GarageWoodworks wrote:

I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

At the risk of sounding like a philistine and cheap, I've always used a
piece of pegboard (1/4" holes) cut to fit in the case. Registered to the
bottom with a square cut to ensure that the holes are parallel to the case
and using a drill bit with either a stop collar or a piece of tape for depth
control.

Simple, fast, cheap if you aren't doing lots of shelves


--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

get a piece of predrilled masonite (used for hanging tools) to use as
a template
shelly

This is what I usually do. Mark top and bottom and any edge index
marks you need. Clamp in place.

Cheap and often available in the scrap bin.

RonB

On Jan 9, 11:53*pm, Mark & Juanita wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. *I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. *I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? *This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

* At the risk of sounding like a philistine and cheap, I've always used a
piece of pegboard (1/4" holes) cut to fit in the case. * Registered to the
bottom with a square cut to ensure that the holes are parallel to the case
and using a drill bit with either a stop collar or a piece of tape for depth
control.

* Simple, fast, cheap if you aren't doing lots of shelves


Are you a tight-a**ed Irishman too?

Related to one?

Scottish too, but we won't claim them right away.

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
Snip



Yeah they are a bit pricey but I have probably drilled 1-2 thousand holes
with mine and have not yet replaced or sharpened the bit.

That's good to know. Man, you build a lot of adjustable shelving,
don't you?

Well consider a hole every 2 or so inches on say a 3' tall cabinet and only
having adjustments in the center 2'. You have almost 50 holes for that one
cabinet. Now multiply that for all the upper cabinets on 1 kitchen
project... you are up to 400-600 holes. Then there have been at least 4
kitchens and 3 bathrooms that I have done this on and countless other stand
alone furniture cabinets. I probably under estimated. LOL And to come to
think about it....I think that is why my shoulder was bothering me after
helping Swingman with his last kitchen. I put the holes in after we
installed the cabinets. The new bed however fixed the shoulder problem
within a couple nights sleep. ;~)

On 01/11/2010 11:51 AM, Leon wrote:
I think that is why my shoulder was bothering me after
helping Swingman with his last kitchen. I put the holes in after we
installed the cabinets. The new bed however fixed the shoulder problem
within a couple nights sleep. ;~)

What mattress did you put on your bed?

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
On 01/11/2010 11:51 AM, Leon wrote:
I think that is why my shoulder was bothering me after
helping Swingman with his last kitchen. I put the holes in after we
installed the cabinets. The new bed however fixed the shoulder problem
within a couple nights sleep. ;~)

What mattress did you put on your bed?


This one,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...13298/sizes/o/

Stearns & Foster Estate King size.

Here is the cheap(er) version of the same jig Norm
did use:

http://www.megproducts.com/basic-bore32.html

GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

RonB wrote:

On Jan 9, 11:53Â*pm, Mark & Juanita wrote:
GarageWoodworks wrote:
I'm gonna brave the cold shop today. Â*I might get to the shelf pin
holes sometime this weekend on a project im working on.

Looking for any tips/tricks for making consistent shelf pin holes down
a post. Â*I have seen Nahmie use a jig before that he uses to line up
the holes with a shelf pin as he moves down the post.

Got a favorite method?

Also, 1/4" dowels should do the trick in each corner right? Â*This case
is going to be loaded down pretty good I hear.

Thanks as always,
Brian
www.garagewoodworks.com

At the risk of sounding like a philistine and cheap, I've always used a
piece of pegboard (1/4" holes) cut to fit in the case. Â* Registered to
the bottom with a square cut to ensure that the holes are parallel to the
case and using a drill bit with either a stop collar or a piece of tape
for depth control.

Simple, fast, cheap if you aren't doing lots of shelves


Are you a tight-a**ed Irishman too?

Related to one?

Scottish too, but we won't claim them right away.

Nope, stubborn German. We've gotta be convinced it's worth spending money
also.



--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...

Yeah they are a bit pricey but I have probably drilled 1-2 thousand holes
with mine and have not yet replaced or sharpened the bit.


What Leon said -- they last a long time; in general, they don't get hard
use so are pretty durable. You do spend a lot of time clearing them
though


Clearing them??? I have never had to clear this particular set up. I
have seen that they get clogged up but continued drilling seems to correct
that. I mostly drill into plywood's however and you may be drilling in a
more problematic wood...

Vix bits yes, in hard and soft woods.

Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.


....and after putting down hardwood flooring in the west end of the
house, I discovered I really did have [sore] butt muscles. Never knew
they were there before that.

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 07:40:11 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


Clearing them??? I have never had to clear this particular set up. I
have seen that they get clogged up but continued drilling seems to correct
that. I mostly drill into plywood's however and you may be drilling in a
more problematic wood...

I've noticed that if don't keep the holes in the bit at 90 degrees to
the holes in the template you'll fill the next hole up with saw dust.
It only takes a couple holes to figure it out though.

Mike O.

"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.
...and after putting down hardwood flooring in the west end of the house,
I discovered I really did have [sore] butt muscles. Never knew they were
there before that.

Funny how that works.....after you recuperate.

Leon wrote:


"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...

Yeah they are a bit pricey but I have probably drilled 1-2 thousand
holes with mine and have not yet replaced or sharpened the bit.


What Leon said -- they last a long time; in general, they don't get hard
use so are pretty durable. You do spend a lot of time clearing them
though


Clearing them??? I have never had to clear this particular set up. I
have seen that they get clogged up but continued drilling seems to correct
that. I mostly drill into plywood's however and you may be drilling in a
more problematic wood...


When mine get clogged up, the base guide portion doesn't want to spring
back down, so I have to pull the wood clear in order to get the guide to
spring back. This has happened both with cheap knock-off and full-up spendy
Vix bits. This has happened in both cherry and maple.


Vix bits yes, in hard and soft woods.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

"Mark & Juanita" wrote in message
m...


When mine get clogged up, the base guide portion doesn't want to spring
back down, so I have to pull the wood clear in order to get the guide to
spring back. This has happened both with cheap knock-off and full-up
spendy
Vix bits. This has happened in both cherry and maple.

Ahh you are speaking of the regular vix stye bits. Agreed, those do clog.
The Rockler pin jig bit has not clogged enough on me to need to stop and
clear it.






Vix bits yes, in hard and soft woods.

--

There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 07:35:42 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .

OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

"But of course." I replied, while flexing my man boobs, er, I mean
massive pecs.


I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.

I'll buy that. But would you let him do it to ya again? You prolly
have an agreement that all customization of the cabinet parts happens
BEFORE they're hung, right? That's as it should be. Carry on.

--
What helps luck is a habit of watching for opportunities, of
having a patient, but restless mind, of sacrificing one's
ease or vanity, of uniting a love of detail to foresight, and
of passing through hard times bravely and cheerfully.
-- Charles Victor Cherbuliez

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:46:01 -0700, the infamous Doug Winterburn
scrawled the following:

Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.


...and after putting down hardwood flooring in the west end of the
house, I discovered I really did have [sore] butt muscles. Never knew
they were there before that.

Yeah, what we thought were one butt muscle turned out to be several
different glutes and a few other helpers down there. Every time I do
flooring or a deck, my lower back and glutes let me know it.

--
What helps luck is a habit of watching for opportunities, of
having a patient, but restless mind, of sacrificing one's
ease or vanity, of uniting a love of detail to foresight, and
of passing through hard times bravely and cheerfully.
-- Charles Victor Cherbuliez

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 19:12:29 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone
scrawled the following:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 12:46:01 -0700, the infamous Doug Winterburn
scrawled the following:

Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
OUCH! I can imagine the gut and ribs hurt, too, working overhead and
sideways like that. Didja swat that sumbish -good- for making you do
that? What a pal he is.


When you do physical work you some times get sore. I was probably just
adding more to my already hulking muscles. :~)

I was and am certainly not complaining. The experience is well worth it.


...and after putting down hardwood flooring in the west end of the
house, I discovered I really did have [sore] butt muscles. Never knew
they were there before that.

Yeah, what we thought were one butt muscle turned out to be several
different glutes and a few other helpers down there. Every time I do
flooring or a deck, my lower back and glutes let me know it.

It took about 8 months for my right arm and shoulder to fully recover
after building my deck. Lying on your back driving approx 2200 screws
from the underside isn't as much fun as it may sound... Who knew?

And that was after driving about 2000 nails by hand attaching the joist
track.

I hope you charged the owner a couple of new tools (machines, eh?) for
that. She forced you into doing the hidden fastener scam, right?
Thot so.

--
What helps luck is a habit of watching for opportunities, of
having a patient, but restless mind, of sacrificing one's
ease or vanity, of uniting a love of detail to foresight, and
of passing through hard times bravely and cheerfully.
-- Charles Victor Cherbuliez

On Thu, 14 Jan 2010 08:01:54 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone
scrawled the following:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

I hope you charged the owner a couple of new tools (machines, eh?) for
that. She forced you into doing the hidden fastener scam, right?
Thot so.

The owner was me...

That went PSA, did it? (In that case, you were UNmarried at the time,
I presume?)

--
What helps luck is a habit of watching for opportunities, of
having a patient, but restless mind, of sacrificing one's
ease or vanity, of uniting a love of detail to foresight, and
of passing through hard times bravely and cheerfully.
-- Charles Victor Cherbuliez

On Fri, 15 Jan 2010 07:49:58 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone
scrawled the following:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jan 2010 08:01:54 -0600, the infamous Dave Balderstone
scrawled the following:

In article , Larry Jaques
wrote:

I hope you charged the owner a couple of new tools (machines, eh?) for
that. She forced you into doing the hidden fastener scam, right?
Thot so.

The owner was me...

That went PSA, did it? (In that case, you were UNmarried at the time,
I presume?)

PSA?

Now-defunct American airline. See de plane, boss?
It WENT RIGHT OVER YOUR HEAD. Capice, now?

--
The greatest fine art of the future will be the making
of a comfortable living from a small piece of land.
--Abraham Lincoln