hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo setup,
I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a 2HP black
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers


TIA

"Daryl" wrote:

hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use
on router tables,....

These days a 3HP Milwaukee is getting favorable comments as a table
router.

Lew

The most appropriate router nowadays is at least 2hp, maybe 2.5 or 3
and has a plunge base with a built in ability to set the height from
above the table. This can save you the money of an expensive raiser
setup and give you the conveinience of the above the table adjust.

Lots ofd times they sell kits with both types of bases so you at least
still have a fixed base to keep for hand work and you just need to
drop the router out of the plunge base that is attached to the table
when yoyu need to do hand work.

On Mar 21, 10:07*pm, "Daryl" wrote:
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo setup,
I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a 2HP black
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers

* * TIA

"Daryl" wrote in message
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a
router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers

Depends. Do you have a way to fasten the router down securely when using it
in the table? If not, then you need to find out how to do that first before
doing anything else. Otherwise, get another router.

Daryl wrote:
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use
on router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up
and I need to get another setup but I don't want to go with another
cheap combo setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question
is this I have a 2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base
can this router be used on a router table? without a fixed base? I
have seen some advertised using plunge routers

1. Yes, your B&D can be used in a table, with or without a fixed base. All
you need do is attach the existing base to the table insert.

2. A more powerful router would be better. Routers are essentially
*trimming* tools...they weren't really meant to serve in place of shapers;
nevetheless, that's the way people are using them so more power is better.

3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Daryl" wrote in message
g.com...
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo
setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a
2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used
on a router table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using
plunge routers


TIA

Thank you all very much, your answers were just what I needed

"dadiOH" wrote in message
3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.

For the most part, you're right except that Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting. It appears
to be permanently wired into a separate power/speed controller so adding a
base (if there's one that fits) to it for free hand routing would be awkward
at best.

http://www.jessem.com/new_products.htm

Upscale wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.

For the most part, you're right except that Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting. It appears
to be permanently wired into a separate power/speed controller so adding a
base (if there's one that fits) to it for free hand routing would be awkward
at best.

http://www.jessem.com/new_products.htm

JessEm makes the most incredible stuff. I'd have one or more of
everything they make if I could afford it. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Daryl" wrote in message
g.com...
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo
setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a
2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used
on a router table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using
plunge routers


TIA


I don't know of any router that cannot be used on a router table. That said
different style routers are better suited for router table use. Typically
the best routers to use are the newer style combo routers that work as a
plunge or fixed base router all in one. The Triton router is an example of
this. IIRC PC has a router that falls in this category and perhaps other
brands as well.
Next would be the fixed base with a router lift of some type followed by
just a fixed base router and finally a plunge router.

For the most part any of the styles will perform the same "once adjusted".
Ease of accurate adjustments is what it is all about when choosing a router
for the router table.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have been
emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router table or for
hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does
not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

I'm in the market for a new router since my 3hp Makita was stolen from my
best friend's garage. How easy is the fine adjustment with the Triton? And
second, how well does the dust port work for chip extraction? I'm looking
at
the 3 1/4 HP model.

Thanks

The fine tune adjustment is very easy to use providing you have access to
the router under the table and you mount the router with the adjustment knob
on the front side. Like a typical plunge router it has a lock lever to
lock the height setting in any position. You release that lever, IIRC it is
adjustable to most any position, turn the coarse handle for fast
adjustments, and then turn the fine tune knob for zeroing in on the final
adjustment. You can use the fine adjustment knob to move the router through
out the whole distance that the motor will travel, so it does not reach a
limit similar to the limits of the fine tune knob on the Bosch 1617 fixed
base router. I have that router also.

I have never used the router as a hand held. It is always hanging under the
table and I use the dust port built into the fence for collection.

I have the bigger model and bought it when it was originally in the $300
range and was the only Triton router choice and do not regret paying more.

A couple of things to consider but keep in mind I am not one that really
cares about how a tool looks so much as how well it performs. I am going to
sound critical here but I am not saying this to scare you away.

My router was and I suspect that they continue to be made in China. Like
the complaints about cheap materials appearance used for the interiors of
some cars the Triton plastic looks cheap. Does this affect anything at all,
NO. The metal parts look like you would expect from any brand.

The fine adjustment knob has a bit of play. The bit height is not
immediately affected by the initial movement of the knob. Keep in mind that
the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it
typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either
direction. Not a problem with me as the knob still allows accurate
adjustments. IIRC a full turn moves the bit about 1/16", and about 2 full
turns of the coarse adjustment handle/knob to go from full up to full down
and visa versa.

The collet is a very quick release and tighten design. From fully tight to
fully loose, enough for the bit to come out, is about 1/8" turn so leverage
will be your friend. The threads are more coarse than those on most
routers. I am not a fan of lock shaft routers as I prefer to work two
wrenches against each other to loosen or tighten the collet, however with
the lock shaft on the Triton it is much easier to remove the bit from above
the table with 1 wrench above the table. You do not have to hold a lock to
lock the shaft. A safety feature requires the router to be turned off to
raise/lower the router enough to loosen the collet and this same feature
automatically locks the shaft when the collet is in the bit removal
position. Moving the bit back to an operating spot automatically unlocks
the shaft and allows you to turn the router back on.

Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again
and only change brands if I found something better.

"Leon" wrote in message
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does
not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

I'm in the market for a new router since my 3hp Makita was stolen from my
best friend's garage. How easy is the fine adjustment with the Triton? And
second, how well does the dust port work for chip extraction? I'm looking at
the 3 1/4 HP model.

Thanks

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:



It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router motor
develops something closer to 1.5HP.


What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router
and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse
out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
news

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
It seems that makers of tools such as drills, routers, and the like always
quote the maximum power. The average power of a single phase motor is half
of the maximum power. Hence both average hp of 1 3/4 is the same as maximum
hp of 3 1/2.
The amount of work that you can do is more closely associated with the
average horsepower.

Jim

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
news

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.


I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:43:43 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.



I read somewhere, some time ago, that an easy way to beat the
weatherman's forecast accuracy is to simply take today's reported
weather and use that for tomorrow's forecast.

But weather is a chaotic system and the forecasters really do a pretty
good job of near term forecasting. On the other hand, above the
quantum level, the physics of electricity is a deterministic system
and there's no excuse for that kind of inaccuracy. Misleading at best,
fraud at worst.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

On Mar 22, 12:25 pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router motor
develops something closer to 1.5HP.

What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router
and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse
out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!

I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a
little top heavy

Anything with a universal motor in it they pull that crap.

The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry
about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under
the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point?
It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and
get it inserted and engaged.

-Kevin

"Leon" wrote in
:


"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have
either fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a
table. It may or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a
plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have
been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router table
or for hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The
fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not
running.



I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger
Triton in my table and absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will
take anything I throw at it and laugh!

YMMV

Steve

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message

the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it
typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either
direction.

This bother me a bit. Do you feel some resistance when the bit starts
moving? If not, then adjusting the bit would be solely a visual adjustment
and that can lead to errors.

Really no more so than when you start turning the knob. Absolutely the
adjustment is visual if you need to be more accurate than 1/128" and could
lead to errors if you absolutely insist on depending on the turn of the knob
to indicate an exact movement. Does this keep you from making accurate
adjustments NO. Like finishes I never experiment with a setting on the
actual project pieces. Because it takes more time to zero the bit and make
some calculated adjustment from there vs. simply eye balling every result of
an adjustment on a scrap I have never depended on an exact movement when
turning the knob. Even if the adjustment could be that accurate I would
still run a test piece to verify "I" did not make an adjustment mistake. I
have always viewed the bit height adjustment as being similar to setting the
rip fence on my TS. I look at the indicator on the fence to locate the
fence, I look at the bit height to set the height. If I do a particular
set up often I will keep scraps to use as set up blocks. YMMV

Having said this I have used plunge routers for many years in a router table
set up. Fine adjustments were a real hassle as the next adjustment might be
"much" farther off than the previous adjustment. At least with the Triton
each adjustment can be minute and always closer to the desired setting.
You can get very close to a mark on the wood with the coarse adjustment, the
fine adjustment knob will zero in on that mark pretty accurately visually,
close enough that bit chatter would probably enter more error into the mix.

In your case you may have different needs and depending on an exact movement
in relation to a given amount of the turn of the knob may be a necessity
given your circumstances. You may not have the luxury of achieving the same
results using a differnt method.

If you need the dial adjustment accuracy I would suggest a fixed base router
and after market precision mechanical lift combination. The draw back there
is that you can expect to spend in the $400 range for the lift alone. If
you are a big fan of the "Incra" style TS rip fences and the way they
adjust, the seperate lift may be the better choice.





Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again
and only change brands if I found something better.

Well, so far in my search, I haven't found anything better. I'm not as
concerned with price as I am with machined quality.

Thanks for the critique.

It was my pleasure. While I consider the Triton to be a fine tool it
certainly does not follow the leader or focus on achieving results in the
same way that many would expect. I just wanted you to be aware of those
differences. While it is always a hassle to return something, Woodcraft has
a return policy of 90 days IIRC, no questions asked so you are not locked in
to a purchase that you might determine to be short of your requirements or
expectations.

"Leon" wrote in message

the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it
typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either
direction.

This bother me a bit. Do you feel some resistance when the bit starts
moving? If not, then adjusting the bit would be solely a visual adjustment
and that can lead to errors.

Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again
and only change brands if I found something better.

Well, so far in my search, I haven't found anything better. I'm not as
concerned with price as I am with machined quality.

Thanks for the critique.

"Leon" wrote

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
Reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. He wanted to be a politician and
a ......... weather man.

Both profession require you to make big promises and lie a lot.

He called it "integrity".

wrote:
On Mar 22, 12:25 pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on
a 120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse
router and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15.
One horse out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!

I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a
little top heavy

Anything with a universal motor in it they pull that crap.

The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry
about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under
the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point?
It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and
get it inserted and engaged.

The point is that it's easier to precisely adjust the height if you are
making the adjustment from the same side of the table as the one on which
you are making the measurement.

Hammer Hands wrote:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger
Triton in my table and absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will
take anything I throw at it and laugh!

My 3HP Makita 3612C (an old design but still a goodie) has an electronic
brake. I don't know whether the Triton (or any other popular "3HP"
router) has that feature, but I *love* it, and any new router I bought
would most certainly have to have it.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:43:43 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.



I read somewhere, some time ago, that an easy way to beat the
weatherman's forecast accuracy is to simply take today's reported
weather and use that for tomorrow's forecast.

That sounds reasonable. Some observations, go outside moments before the
forcast and report what you see and feel. Several years ago when we first
got going on Satelite Dish programing we were only able to get the major
broad cast stations from New York or Los Angeles IIRC. We had to pick which
ever one worked the best for us with reguard to program times. We went
with the East coast network and I found that the New Youk City metropolitan
area "rain" forcast was often more accurate than the local forcast here in
Houston. If it was going to rain in NY it would probably rain in Houston
as well. LOL



But weather is a chaotic system and the forecasters really do a pretty
good job of near term forecasting. On the other hand, above the
quantum level, the physics of electricity is a deterministic system
and there's no excuse for that kind of inaccuracy. Misleading at best,
fraud at worst.

Yeah, but I think it has become pretty common place to understand that the
hp and amp ratings are more of an indicator of how that tool will perform as
compared to one with less or higher ratings. Automobile manufacturers rate
hp of their engines and that is fine if you have the engine directly hooked
up to a dyno. Unfortunately those hp numbers are reduced when the engine is
attached to a transmission, drive shaft, differential, and axel. And those
perceived numbers are further reduced when the same engine is matched to a
larger vehicle or truck. I highly suspect that the 3.5 hp and 15 amp
rating is closer to accurate than say the hp that is at the wheels of my
Tundra that has a 382 hp rating but I know that this particular engine will
perform better than the engine with the 235 hp rating.

Leon wrote:
It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.


I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.


He is, in hindsight, which is a benefit the router manufacturers get to
take advantage of.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
Reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. He wanted to be a politician
and a ......... weather man.

Both profession require you to make big promises and lie a lot.

He called it "integrity".


When my son was about 4 years old he wanted to be the guy that rode on the
back of the garbage truck and collected garbage. I questioned him on that a
few minutes wondering what the attraction was and was relieved to learn that
he wanted to ride on the back of the truck. I asked if he had ever smelled
the garbage in those trucks and he replied with a nod and said that it
stunk. I reminded him that riding on that truck all day would require him
to smell that stink all day also.

Before I realized that my son was pretty smart I kiddingly would remind him
that he could be come a doctor or a weather forecaster. NO ONE would ever
seriously expect you to diagnose or forecast it correctly every time.
Fortunately he has done well in school and I now kiddingly remind him that
he is his mother's and my revised "Retirement Plan". :~)

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Hammer Hands wrote:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger Triton in my table and
absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will take anything I throw
at it and laugh!

My 3HP Makita 3612C (an old design but still a goodie) has an electronic
brake. I don't know whether the Triton (or any other popular "3HP"
router) has that feature, but I *love* it, and any new router I bought
would most certainly have to have it.


Do you like that brake when used in a hand held operation and do you have to
hold the switch for the motor to continue to run? I don't think that would
be a big deal when used in a router table situation but I can certainly see
the value in hand held usage.

wrote in message
...
On Mar 22, 12:25 pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor
develops something closer to 1.5HP.

What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router
and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse
out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!

I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a
little top heavy


Have you seen a CNC router?

wrote:

The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry
about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under
the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point?
It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and
get it inserted and engaged.


I've got a cheap Ryobi router table and a cheap Ryobi router to go with it.

As it turns out, a nut-driver easily fits in a hole in the router's table
and engages the shaft for the bit adjustment. I simply adjust the height
where I want it, the reach under the table and slap the height lock.

What IS missing is someway to lock the router shaft for changing the bit. I
solved that by drilling one hole and adding one guide such that a push on a
1/4" rod from the front of the table engages the shaft lock. I can then work
on bit changing from the top.

wrote in message
...

The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry
about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under
the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point?
It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and
get it inserted and engaged.

-Kevin


Well concerning those statements, your set up may be like that but not all
routers and or router lifts are the same.

Many router lifts, some routers have no lock or have the need for a lock
under the table. My particular router has a lock but it is not needed when
used in the router table configuration. The lock might be needed if I used
my router in a hand held application in it's plunge configuration.

Some router lifts only afford you the ability to and or are much easier to
adjust from above the table. Still in my case there is no router table
height adjustment on top however the collet is loosened and tightened from
on top of the router table.

Having said that I pretty much go with your school of thought myself but
realize that not every one uses the same router that I do so different
factors will have varying degrees of importance to the user.

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...


He is, in hindsight,


LOL, I cannot agree with that either. It is not unusual for the local
weather guy to say we need the rain it has been days since we have gotten
any. He then states that the official rainfall measurement was "zip" when
for the same time period, same city, I measure 1.5". Or visa versa.

The thing that gets my goat is when they comment that the high/ low temp
is/was "X" degrees above or below normal for the day to exaggerate the heat
or cold temperature conditions for any given day. What the heck do they
think "normal" means? It is absolutely normal for the temperature to not
be exactly the same all the time. It would make much more sense if they
indicated the same figures as compared to the "AVERAGE" temp of a particular
day.

wrote:

I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a
little top heavy

I've got a real 5 hp router, and it's not especially top heavy - it's
just heavy... and the power cord is a bit heavy, too.



--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Lee Michaels" wrote

"Leon" wrote

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
Reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. He wanted to be a politician
and a ......... weather man.

Both profession require you to make big promises and lie a lot.

He called it "integrity".

Or, in the case of weather predictors, "guess" a lot.

I will say that I've been slightly impressed the past few years with their
accuracy, more or less. Being in the construction business, I start every
Monday morning updating the top line of each day in my "week-at-a-glance"
organizer for the next 15 day forecast, and correcting those wrong from the
prior week.

The past few years there has been a lot less correcting necessary.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Swingman" wrote ..

"Lee Michaels" wrote

"Leon" wrote

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
Reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. He wanted to be a politician
and a ......... weather man.

Both profession require you to make big promises and lie a lot.

He called it "integrity".

Or, in the case of weather predictors, "guess" a lot.

I will say that I've been slightly impressed the past few years with their
accuracy, more or less. Being in the construction business, I start every
Monday morning updating the top line of each day in my "week-at-a-glance"
organizer for the next 15 day forecast, and correcting those wrong from
the prior week.

The past few years there has been a lot less correcting necessary.


I assume that the geology around there is fairly consistent and
straightforward to forcast. I live in Seattle in the middle of the "Puget
Sound Convergence Zone". The weather people around here really have to work
hard.

We got a body of water in front of us (Puget Sound). We have some mountains
on the other side of that (Olympic Mountains) with the Pacific Ocean on the
other side of them. And behind us, we have the Cascade mountain range. We
also have Canada to the north of us who likes to send us some nasty cold
weather now and then. In addition to all these varibles, in the winter, the
snow level varies daily. with lots of variations in elevation.

What then happens is about thirty little microclimates depending where you
are in this Chaos model. And as any good Chaos model will do, it is moody
and unpredictable. This winter had snow falling almost half the time
somewhere. Except for the really big storms, they hardly ever got it right.
Parts of the year, their computer models work really well. Increase the
number of storms or weather patterns, it becomes a true mockery of any kind
of predictive process.

We often compare the weather lies to the Mayor lies. Who was the bigget
liar yesterday kind of discussion.

"Lee Michaels" wrote

We often compare the weather lies to the Mayor lies. Who was the bigget
liar yesterday kind of discussion.

Much less complicated climate wise hereabouts. Around here it is either
raining, or it isn't ... nothing much else matters/happens.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"Lee Michaels" wrote:


I live in Seattle in the middle of the "Puget Sound Convergence
Zone". The weather people around here really have to work hard.

Let's see, summer is July 4 & 5.

After that, snow or rain.

Kind of like Cleveland.

Lew

Leon wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have
either fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a
table. It may or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a
plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have
been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router
table or for hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The
fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not
running.

OK, I stand corrected. Thanks for the info

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Lew Hodgett wrote:
I live in Seattle in the middle of the "Puget Sound Convergence
Zone". The weather people around here really have to work hard.

Let's see, summer is July 4 & 5.

After that, snow or rain.

Kind of like Cleveland.

Lew


We had wonderful Summers in Cleveland.
And because of our position in the time zone, it didn't get dark
until about 9:30, end of June-beginning on July.



--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Hammer Hands wrote:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger Triton in my table and
absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will take anything I throw
at it and laugh!
My 3HP Makita 3612C (an old design but still a goodie) has an electronic
brake. I don't know whether the Triton (or any other popular "3HP"
router) has that feature, but I *love* it, and any new router I bought
would most certainly have to have it.


Do you like that brake when used in a hand held operation and do you have to
hold the switch for the motor to continue to run? I don't think that would
be a big deal when used in a router table situation but I can certainly see
the value in hand held usage.

Funny you should ask, because the Makita is my table router and I got
tired of taking it out of the table for hand-held operations so I bought
a Dewalt combo pack. I agonized over that purchase because the Dewalt
had all the features I wanted *except* for a brake, and to this day I
wish I'd found a different combo that had one. I like the brake for
both table and hand-held operations. I wish my tablesaw had one! :-)

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
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