hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo setup,
I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a 2HP black
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers


TIA

"Daryl" wrote in message
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a
router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers

Depends. Do you have a way to fasten the router down securely when using it
in the table? If not, then you need to find out how to do that first before
doing anything else. Otherwise, get another router.

"Daryl" wrote:

hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use
on router tables,....

These days a 3HP Milwaukee is getting favorable comments as a table
router.

Lew

The most appropriate router nowadays is at least 2hp, maybe 2.5 or 3
and has a plunge base with a built in ability to set the height from
above the table. This can save you the money of an expensive raiser
setup and give you the conveinience of the above the table adjust.

Lots ofd times they sell kits with both types of bases so you at least
still have a fixed base to keep for hand work and you just need to
drop the router out of the plunge base that is attached to the table
when yoyu need to do hand work.

On Mar 21, 10:07*pm, "Daryl" wrote:
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo setup,
I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a 2HP black
& decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used on a router
table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using plunge
routers

* * TIA

Daryl wrote:
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use
on router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up
and I need to get another setup but I don't want to go with another
cheap combo setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question
is this I have a 2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base
can this router be used on a router table? without a fixed base? I
have seen some advertised using plunge routers

1. Yes, your B&D can be used in a table, with or without a fixed base. All
you need do is attach the existing base to the table insert.

2. A more powerful router would be better. Routers are essentially
*trimming* tools...they weren't really meant to serve in place of shapers;
nevetheless, that's the way people are using them so more power is better.

3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.

For the most part, you're right except that Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting. It appears
to be permanently wired into a separate power/speed controller so adding a
base (if there's one that fits) to it for free hand routing would be awkward
at best.

http://www.jessem.com/new_products.htm

Upscale wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or
may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.

For the most part, you're right except that Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting. It appears
to be permanently wired into a separate power/speed controller so adding a
base (if there's one that fits) to it for free hand routing would be awkward
at best.

http://www.jessem.com/new_products.htm

JessEm makes the most incredible stuff. I'd have one or more of
everything they make if I could afford it. :-)

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:



It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router motor
develops something closer to 1.5HP.


What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router
and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse
out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Mar 22, 12:25 pm, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:07:27 -0500, Tom Veatch wrote:

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router motor
develops something closer to 1.5HP.

What's even stranger is that some manufacturers offer a 2.x horse router
and a 3.x horse. The 2s usually draw 12 amps and the 3s 15. One horse
out of three amps ain't perpetual motion, but it's close!

I'm trying to imagine a real 3 hp router. I think it might be a
little top heavy

Anything with a universal motor in it they pull that crap.

The advice I would give as far as router tables go, don't even worry
about all the above the table adjustment stuff. You have to go under
the table to lock and unlock the height anyway, so wtf is the point?
It's easier to just turn a knob than get your adjustment wrench and
get it inserted and engaged.

-Kevin

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
news

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
It seems that makers of tools such as drills, routers, and the like always
quote the maximum power. The average power of a single phase motor is half
of the maximum power. Hence both average hp of 1 3/4 is the same as maximum
hp of 3 1/2.
The amount of work that you can do is more closely associated with the
average horsepower.

Jim

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:33:36 -0500, Jim wrote:

The average power of a single phase motor is half of the maximum power.
Hence both average hp of 1 3/4 is the same as maximum hp of 3 1/2.

I heard somewhere that a conservative horsepower estimate can be made for
110V equipment by taking the amp rating and moving the decimal point one
place left. IOW, 13 amps is 1.3 horse. Remember, I said
conservative :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

"Tom Veatch" wrote in message
news

Jessem offers a Milwaukee router
without any type of base that's intended only for table mounting.

From the blurb about the router motor on Jessem's web site:

"15 AMP, 3-1/2 MAX HP "

Never happen!!

It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.


I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:43:43 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.



I read somewhere, some time ago, that an easy way to beat the
weatherman's forecast accuracy is to simply take today's reported
weather and use that for tomorrow's forecast.

But weather is a chaotic system and the forecasters really do a pretty
good job of near term forecasting. On the other hand, above the
quantum level, the physics of electricity is a deterministic system
and there's no excuse for that kind of inaccuracy. Misleading at best,
fraud at worst.

Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA

"Leon" wrote

I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.
Reminds me of a guy I knew in high school. He wanted to be a politician and
a ......... weather man.

Both profession require you to make big promises and lie a lot.

He called it "integrity".

Leon wrote:
It's either a 3-1/2 HP motor or it's a 15 amp motor, but running on a
120v circuit it's for durn sure not both. 3.5hp on 120v requires a
minimum of 22amps and that assumes a unity power factor and 100%
electromechanical efficiency. It's far more likely that the router
motor develops something closer to 1.5HP.

Jessem and/or Milwaukee is not alone in grossly over inflating the HP
in their advertising literature.


I gotta say, the weather man is never totally accurate either.


He is, in hindsight, which is a benefit the router manufacturers get to
take advantage of.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have either
fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a table. It may
or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have been
emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router table or for
hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

"Leon" wrote in message
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does
not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

I'm in the market for a new router since my 3hp Makita was stolen from my
best friend's garage. How easy is the fine adjustment with the Triton? And
second, how well does the dust port work for chip extraction? I'm looking at
the 3 1/4 HP model.

Thanks

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine
tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The fan does
not
let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not running.

I'm in the market for a new router since my 3hp Makita was stolen from my
best friend's garage. How easy is the fine adjustment with the Triton? And
second, how well does the dust port work for chip extraction? I'm looking
at
the 3 1/4 HP model.

Thanks

The fine tune adjustment is very easy to use providing you have access to
the router under the table and you mount the router with the adjustment knob
on the front side. Like a typical plunge router it has a lock lever to
lock the height setting in any position. You release that lever, IIRC it is
adjustable to most any position, turn the coarse handle for fast
adjustments, and then turn the fine tune knob for zeroing in on the final
adjustment. You can use the fine adjustment knob to move the router through
out the whole distance that the motor will travel, so it does not reach a
limit similar to the limits of the fine tune knob on the Bosch 1617 fixed
base router. I have that router also.

I have never used the router as a hand held. It is always hanging under the
table and I use the dust port built into the fence for collection.

I have the bigger model and bought it when it was originally in the $300
range and was the only Triton router choice and do not regret paying more.

A couple of things to consider but keep in mind I am not one that really
cares about how a tool looks so much as how well it performs. I am going to
sound critical here but I am not saying this to scare you away.

My router was and I suspect that they continue to be made in China. Like
the complaints about cheap materials appearance used for the interiors of
some cars the Triton plastic looks cheap. Does this affect anything at all,
NO. The metal parts look like you would expect from any brand.

The fine adjustment knob has a bit of play. The bit height is not
immediately affected by the initial movement of the knob. Keep in mind that
the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it
typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either
direction. Not a problem with me as the knob still allows accurate
adjustments. IIRC a full turn moves the bit about 1/16", and about 2 full
turns of the coarse adjustment handle/knob to go from full up to full down
and visa versa.

The collet is a very quick release and tighten design. From fully tight to
fully loose, enough for the bit to come out, is about 1/8" turn so leverage
will be your friend. The threads are more coarse than those on most
routers. I am not a fan of lock shaft routers as I prefer to work two
wrenches against each other to loosen or tighten the collet, however with
the lock shaft on the Triton it is much easier to remove the bit from above
the table with 1 wrench above the table. You do not have to hold a lock to
lock the shaft. A safety feature requires the router to be turned off to
raise/lower the router enough to loosen the collet and this same feature
automatically locks the shaft when the collet is in the bit removal
position. Moving the bit back to an operating spot automatically unlocks
the shaft and allows you to turn the router back on.

Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again
and only change brands if I found something better.

"Leon" wrote in message

the bit height does stay consistent once the movement starts but it
typically takes about 1/16 of a turn to get the bit moving in either
direction.

This bother me a bit. Do you feel some resistance when the bit starts
moving? If not, then adjusting the bit would be solely a visual adjustment
and that can lead to errors.

Would I buy it again? Yes but I would take a look at the offerings again
and only change brands if I found something better.

Well, so far in my search, I haven't found anything better. I'm not as
concerned with price as I am with machined quality.

Thanks for the critique.

"Leon" wrote in message
I have the bigger model and bought it when it was originally in the $300
range and was the only Triton router choice and do not regret paying more.

One other question. Did you remove the springs from the plunge mechanism for
use in the table?

"Leon" wrote in
:


"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have
either fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a
table. It may or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a
plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have
been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router table
or for hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The
fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not
running.



I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger
Triton in my table and absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will
take anything I throw at it and laugh!

YMMV

Steve

Hammer Hands wrote:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger
Triton in my table and absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will
take anything I throw at it and laugh!

My 3HP Makita 3612C (an old design but still a goodie) has an electronic
brake. I don't know whether the Triton (or any other popular "3HP"
router) has that feature, but I *love* it, and any new router I bought
would most certainly have to have it.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Hammer Hands wrote:
I have to agree with Leon. I have the larger Triton in my table and
absolutely love it. It has variable speed and will take anything I throw
at it and laugh!

My 3HP Makita 3612C (an old design but still a goodie) has an electronic
brake. I don't know whether the Triton (or any other popular "3HP"
router) has that feature, but I *love* it, and any new router I bought
would most certainly have to have it.


Do you like that brake when used in a hand held operation and do you have to
hold the switch for the motor to continue to run? I don't think that would
be a big deal when used in a router table situation but I can certainly see
the value in hand held usage.

Leon wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have
either fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a
table. It may or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a
plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have
been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router
table or for hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The
fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not
running.

OK, I stand corrected. Thanks for the info

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
...


3. There is no such thing as "actual table router". Routers have
either fixed bases or plunge bases; either type can be used in a
table. It may or may not be easier to adjust bit height with a
plunge base.


Well that use to be true but in the last 4 or 5 years routers have
been emerging that are specifically designed for use in a router
table or for hand held use.
The Triton router is one such router, I have it. It can be coarse or
fine tune adjusted and the bit can be changed above the table. The
fan does not let debris fall down into the motor even if it is not
running.

OK, I stand corrected. Thanks for the info


You are absolutely welcome! I just learned that Makita has an electric
brake on at least one of their routers.

"Daryl" wrote in message
g.com...
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo
setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a
2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used
on a router table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using
plunge routers


TIA

Thank you all very much, your answers were just what I needed

"Daryl" wrote in message
g.com...
hello folks I have a question concerning the types of routers to use on
router tables, my old combo router table w/router got busted up and I need
to get another setup but I don't want to go with another cheap combo
setup, I want to get an actual table router, my question is this I have a
2HP black & decker evs plunge router no fixed base can this router be used
on a router table? without a fixed base? I have seen some advertised using
plunge routers


TIA


I don't know of any router that cannot be used on a router table. That said
different style routers are better suited for router table use. Typically
the best routers to use are the newer style combo routers that work as a
plunge or fixed base router all in one. The Triton router is an example of
this. IIRC PC has a router that falls in this category and perhaps other
brands as well.
Next would be the fixed base with a router lift of some type followed by
just a fixed base router and finally a plunge router.

For the most part any of the styles will perform the same "once adjusted".
Ease of accurate adjustments is what it is all about when choosing a router
for the router table.