I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of anyone doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.

toller wrote:
I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think
one could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of
anyone doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for
sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink
cutouts for
$5.

It should make a good router table top, with some edge support. I think
the biggest reason it isn't used is because DuPont has made it hard to
come by in sizes other than those suitable for turning pens. They claim
not to sell to anyone who hasn't taken their course in working and
joining the material.

You've got enough to try a piece as a base for sandpaper sharpening.
What can you lose? A bit of sandpaper and a little time?

toller wrote:
snip
I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.


You suck!

Congratulations.

It will do a great job for a router table if you back it with some
1/2"-3/4" plywood.

Scuff up one side of the Corian with some 24-36 grit paper, then epoxy
to the plywood that has also been sanded with 24-36 grit.

Weight down the plywood with something, even concrete building blocks
will work and allow to cure for a few days.

You now have a laminated sandwich that is not only stiff, but bullet proof.

If it were me, I'd trim it to size, then seal the rest of the plywood
with more epoxy.

Sand down the first coat with some 80 grit, then recoat with more epoxy.

Your great grand kids will still be using that router table long after
you are gone.

Enjoy.

Lew

In article ,
"toller" wrote:

I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of anyone doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.
'Corian' has become a generic name.. like Kleenex.
Just make sure it is, in fact, Corian or an acrylic. If it is, it will
make a wonderful router table. Mine is made from a product similar to
Corian. As long as it is acrylic, it will be strong enough to mount a
router onto it.

The polyester based 'look-a-likes' are brittle. You can tell by the
smell when you cut/sand it. If it smells like auto-body filler, it's
polyester. If it sustains combustion, it is polyester.

Wilsonart Gibraltar (less that 8 years old), Samsung Staron, Avonite
(Formstone series only), Dovae, HiMacs and Meganite are all acrylics.
The differences in composition between those brands would be difficult
for a chemist to establish; differences too small to matter.
Any of the above make great router-bases as well.

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"toller" wrote:

I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one
could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of anyone
doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for
sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts
for
$5.
'Corian' has become a generic name.. like Kleenex.
Just make sure it is, in fact, Corian or an acrylic. If it is, it will
make a wonderful router table. Mine is made from a product similar to
Corian. As long as it is acrylic, it will be strong enough to mount a
router onto it.

Thank. They actually say "Corian" on them.
BTW they also sold boxes of 2" long 8" diameter corian tubes with a slit in
them. They went for almost nothing.
What the heck are they used for?

I had one made of plywood with a thin (1/4") layer of some kind of
solid surfacing laminated on top. It worked much better than my
current one with a laminate top, but it was just a top and building a
permanent base was too much work compared to buying a new one.

In article ,
"toller" wrote:

BTW they also sold boxes of 2" long 8" diameter corian tubes with a slit in
them. They went for almost nothing.
What the heck are they used for?

My hunch is that they were Dani Clamps. They're PVC and used to apply
minimal pressure when gluing up edges on counter tops.
http://www.daniclamp.com/miscphoto/c06.jpg
Most spring clamps apply too much pressure, starving the joints.... or
so they claim.
I have never had an edge fall off. I have over 300 of these Pony 3202
clamps, no problems.

Speaking of the whole flat enough enigma, I don't know the answer to
the question but there is an easy way to tell. Take a fairly thick
piece of plate glass or a surface plate if you can get access to one.
Cover the plate with some sort of liquid paint such as oil paint
(usually prussian blue is used). Then lay the corian down on the glass
or plate and rub it around. Then lift it off and turn it over. If the
paint or ink formed a fairly even coat on the corian, it is fairly
flat. If the ink or paint is patchy, then it isn't very flat. If you
are ambitious and the corian isn't flat, you can try to flatten it by
simply sanding or scaping down the areas covered with paint until the
whole piece is fairly evenly coated. This is the same method used for
flattening nearly any tool, such as plane soles. If you are
interested, go into google and search on "lapping plane soles"

Assuming you don't plan to make your router table top the full 3' x 3', be
sure to save some of the trimmings to make into zero clearance inserts for
your table saw. The 1/2 thick scraps are ideal for this purpose.

Lee

--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

"toller" wrote in message
...
I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one
could be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of
anyone doing it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for
sharpening; or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.

Sound great.

The only problem I see is coming up with matching accessories for you new,
fancy router table top. After all, you have to color match that fancy top
with everything!

At least that is what the SWMBO would do.

woodworker88 wrote:

Speaking of the whole flat enough enigma, I don't know the answer to
the question but there is an easy way to tell. Take a fairly thick
piece of plate glass or a surface plate if you can get access to one.
Cover the plate with some sort of liquid paint such as oil paint
(usually prussian blue is used).

Not quite. Prussian Blue marking paste is not "oil paint", it's purpose
made for this task and if it dries at all it does so very slowly. Go to
Mcmaster http://www.mcmaster.com and search on "prussian blue"--a tube is
about 3 bucks.

While oil paint could probably work for the task, it's not really made for
it and given the low price of the right stuff it seems silly not to use it.

In any case, if you care about the appearance, test first and make sure you
can get whatever you use _off_ before you get it on wide areas of the
Corian.

Then lay the corian down on the glass
or plate and rub it around. Then lift it off and turn it over. If the
paint or ink formed a fairly even coat on the corian, it is fairly
flat. If the ink or paint is patchy, then it isn't very flat. If you
are ambitious and the corian isn't flat, you can try to flatten it by
simply sanding or scaping down the areas covered with paint until the
whole piece is fairly evenly coated. This is the same method used for
flattening nearly any tool, such as plane soles. If you are
interested, go into google and search on "lapping plane soles"

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Lew, how do you cut corian? Are there special blades? Can you make the
cut-out for the router plate with a jig saw? Then clean it up with a
router?

Thanks!

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 23:09:47 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of anyone doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.


mine is. works great. build a suitable frame under it so it wont sag
and use a router plate insert. i had mine mounted directly to the
corian for a while but didnt think the corian would support well
enough. i had visions of the screws pulling through.

skeez

On 17 Apr 2005 09:41:55 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote:

Lew, how do you cut corian? Are there special blades? Can you make the
cut-out for the router plate with a jig saw? Then clean it up with a
router?

Thanks!

carbide router bits work well but they dont last as long as with wood.

skeez

Try Swanstone, it's is the strongest I have used. It is filled with glass
fibre, can't break it with a hammer. Do on-line search for distributors and
call, they usually have damaged peices they might sale.

Ken

"toller" wrote in message
...
I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one
could be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of
anyone doing it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for
sharpening; or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.

how do you cut corian? Are there special blades? Can you make the
cut-out for the router plate with a jig saw? Then clean it up with a
router?

Regular woodworking tools. In my case, I ripped the strips to width on the
table saw. I used a Freud laminate cutting blade because I had one handy
but I imagine any decent blade would work. I then cut the blanks to exact
shape on the bandsaw and fine tuned with a 100 grit belt on my stationary
belt sander. I then finished by drilling a few holes with the drill press
and the same bits I use for wood.
I was originally thinking of using a router with a pattern bit or even a
laminate trimming bit but decided my router table wasn't up to the task.

Lee


--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

As to why others don't use Corian (or nairoc) and this is just a guess:

I was quoted $22.50 per square foot for some Corian (retail price) for a 12
inch by 24 inch piece. YMMV, but about $50.00 for a router table top seems
a little steep. You were lucky I didn't know about that auction you were
at. $5.00 !!!!!! Dang IT all.

Oh, BTW: when you do use a power tool on Corian (or non-DuPont look alikes)
please use a dust mask.
MSDS for Corian (specific to DuPont's trade named product Corian, not valid
for other mfg.)
http://www.parksite.com/productgroup.../msds_3_40.pdf

Free woodworkers pamphlet at Art Specialties International, Inc.
"How to Work with Corina in the Homeworkshop"
http://stonewood.safeshopper.com/?502
scroll down and click on link Free Stuff.

HTH
Phil

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 23:09:47 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I bought some large scraps of corian at an auction today. I think one could
be used for a great router table top, but I have never heard of anyone doing
it; so maybe there is a good reason not to.

Speaking of corian, can it be used as a base for sand paper for sharpening;
or is it just not flat enough?

I got 3 pieces 1/2" thick about 36" by 36" and a bunch of sink cutouts for
$5.


I think Corian should make a nice router table top. I might use two
glued pieces with a different size cutout to hold the router base
plate. You can use another piece to cut out a fence.

In article Wxy8e.24472$GJ.21342@attbi_s71,
"Ken" wrote:

Try Swanstone, it's is the strongest I have used. It is filled with glass
fibre, can't break it with a hammer. Do on-line search for distributors and
call, they usually have damaged peices they might sale.

Ken
Swanstone is only 1/4" thick. Adhesion is difficult. I dropped that
line pretty soon after I did my tests.

I was quoted $22.50 per square foot for some Corian (retail price) for a
12 inch by 24 inch piece. YMMV, but about $50.00 for a router table top
seems a little steep. You were lucky I didn't know about that auction
you were at. $5.00 !!!!!! Dang IT all.

Actually I didn't even bid because the lot was too big. A guy won about
500sf for $50. I gave him $5 for the 3 big pieces I wanted plus some sink
cutouts; he was glad to have less to carry out. I am sure he would be glad
to give you some also; if you could find him.

Oh, BTW: when you do use a power tool on Corian (or non-DuPont look
alikes) please use a dust mask.
MSDS for Corian (specific to DuPont's trade named product Corian, not
valid for other mfg.)
http://www.parksite.com/productgroup.../msds_3_40.pdf

I just cut some holes in my corian countertop for a new sink, and there was
almost no dust; but with a saw or router it is probably another story.
Thanks for the warning.

In article .com,
"Never Enough Money" wrote:

Lew, how do you cut corian? Are there special blades? Can you make the
cut-out for the router plate with a jig saw? Then clean it up with a
router?

Thanks!

NEVER use a jigsaw on solid surface. It creates micro-fissures. Cleanup
with a router will not get rid of those fissures unless you take off 1-2
inches.... with a router.
Rotary cutting action only...sawblade, router bit...

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
'Corian' has become a generic name.. like Kleenex.
Just make sure it is, in fact, Corian or an acrylic. If it is, it will
make a wonderful router table. Mine is made from a product similar to
Corian. As long as it is acrylic, it will be strong enough to mount a
router onto it.

Actually most manufacturers of acrylic router plates do not recomend leaving
a router hanging when not in use. The plate, mine that was 3/8" thick bowed
from the weight of a router in about 6 months. It did just fine for the
first 4 years but after changing to an apparently heavier router it bowed
downward.

The reason you don't hear of it is the cost of a sheet of the no name solid
surface is over $500 for 4x10x1/2" qwhich need at least 1/4" backer plywood.
the means a avg router top would cost over $125. thats to step for my blood.
It would be very nice and smooth, but hey $125 goes a long way to some nice
toys for the shop.
--
Remember 9/11
God Bless US

"Upscale" wrote in
:

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message

The only problem I see is coming up with matching accessories for you
new, fancy router table top. After all, you have to color match that
fancy top with everything!

At least that is what the SWMBO would do.

Well, of course that's what happens when you let SWMBO in your
workshop. A thinking guy would try to prevent that because she would
see new tools magically appearing on regular intervals in your shop.
That's a no-no, to be avoided at any cost.


Well, the good news is she either didn't recognize the new lathe in the
corner there, or chose not to say anything to me about it. Maybe a new
quilter's sewing machine is on order??

Patriarch

"Patriarch" wrote in message

Well, the good news is she either didn't recognize the new lathe in the
corner there, or chose not to say anything to me about it. Maybe a new
quilter's sewing machine is on order??

Don't the prices of some of those things cost more than a decent lathe?
Sounds to me that it would be cheaper for you to negotiate one of those
sewing machines for her and balance it with a bigger machine for yourself.

"Upscale" wrote in
:

"Patriarch" wrote in message

Well, the good news is she either didn't recognize the new lathe in
the corner there, or chose not to say anything to me about it. Maybe
a new quilter's sewing machine is on order??

Don't the prices of some of those things cost more than a decent
lathe? Sounds to me that it would be cheaper for you to negotiate one
of those sewing machines for her and balance it with a bigger machine
for yourself.


My woodturning skills are in their infancy, and a significantly bigger
and/or better, lathe than this new one, a Jet 1442VS, triples the cost,
even before I consider the electrical wiring.

Besides, the _last thing_ I want to start is an escalating spiral of whose
equipment costs more, or whose hobby is more important. That's a losing
game, for certain.

Patriarch

"Ken Grunenberg" wrote in message
news:9ZG8e.7542$4v3.1700@trndny03...
The reason you don't hear of it is the cost of a sheet of the no name
solid surface is over $500 for 4x10x1/2" qwhich need at least 1/4" backer
plywood. the means a avg router top would cost over $125. thats to step
for my blood.
Not if you shop carefully. There was a piece that big in the lot that went
for $50 (out of which I got my stuff for $5).

Swanstone has been 1/2" for about a year now , the neatest thing is the edge
is already part of the top , no gluing except for angles and so forth.
You might give it another try, much better then 1/4".

Ken

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
In article Wxy8e.24472$GJ.21342@attbi_s71,
"Ken" wrote:

Try Swanstone, it's is the strongest I have used. It is filled with glass
fibre, can't break it with a hammer. Do on-line search for distributors
and
call, they usually have damaged peices they might sale.

Ken
Swanstone is only 1/4" thick. Adhesion is difficult. I dropped that
line pretty soon after I did my tests.

I occasionally have pieces that I sell for about $25-$50 plenty big enough
for router tops,
Raw stock is 27 x 145 x 1/2" with integral edge, About $400.00.
I can get 6 top from One sheet. $400/6= $70.00
easy to flatten also. Shop made body file.

Ken


"toller" wrote in message
...

"Ken Grunenberg" wrote in message
news:9ZG8e.7542$4v3.1700@trndny03...
The reason you don't hear of it is the cost of a sheet of the no name
solid surface is over $500 for 4x10x1/2" qwhich need at least 1/4" backer
plywood. the means a avg router top would cost over $125. thats to step
for my blood.
Not if you shop carefully. There was a piece that big in the lot that
went for $50 (out of which I got my stuff for $5).

In article ,
"Another Phil" NoSpamming@one two three four five.com wrote:

please use a dust mask.

It is nuisance dust. Period. Many wood species are nastier.
There is no chemical dark side to acrylic solid surfacing.
It won't even sustain combustion. But whilst exposed to an external, hot
open flame, you may not want to breathe the smoke...
The bulk of the composition is aluminum trihydrate ATH, a compound
extracted from mother earth via the Bayer process of making aluminum
from bauxite...ATH is a refined mineral.

Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
"Another Phil" NoSpamming@one two three four five.com wrote:

please use a dust mask.

It is nuisance dust. Period. Many wood species are nastier.
There is no chemical dark side to acrylic solid surfacing.
It won't even sustain combustion. But whilst exposed to an external, hot
open flame, you may not want to breathe the smoke...
The bulk of the composition is aluminum trihydrate ATH, a compound
extracted from mother earth via the Bayer process of making aluminum
from bauxite...ATH is a refined mineral.

It may be nuisance dust but having your lungs full of nuisance dust doesn't
help your breathing.

As for "a compound extracted from mother earth", uranium is a refined
mineral too--don't equate "natural" with safe.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

In article ,
"J. Clarke" wrote:

It may be nuisance dust but having your lungs full of nuisance dust doesn't
help your breathing.

Agreed. Any dust in the lungs will hurt you. I was trying to point out
that there anything ultra-mysteriously nasty about it.

As for "a compound extracted from mother earth", uranium is a refined
mineral too--don't equate "natural" with safe.

Fair enough. Opium is quite natural as well. Again, I was trying to
point out that it wasn't some diabolical man-conceived carcinogenic.
I should have been more specific. Thanks for the heads-up.

I was quoted $22.50 per square foot for some Corian (retail price) for a
12 inch by 24 inch piece. YMMV, but about $50.00 for a router table top
seems a little steep. You were lucky I didn't know about that auction
you were at. $5.00 !!!!!! Dang IT all.

Actually I didn't even bid because the lot was too big. A guy won about
500sf for $50. I gave him $5 for the 3 big pieces I wanted plus some sink
cutouts; he was glad to have less to carry out. I am sure he would be glad
to give you some also; if you could find him.

Oh, BTW: when you do use a power tool on Corian (or non-DuPont look
alikes) please use a dust mask.
MSDS for Corian (specific to DuPont's trade named product Corian, not
valid for other mfg.)
http://www.parksite.com/productgroup.../msds_3_40.pdf

I just cut some holes in my corian countertop for a new sink, and there was
almost no dust; but with a saw or router it is probably another story.
Thanks for the warning.

"Ken Grunenberg" wrote in message
news:9ZG8e.7542$4v3.1700@trndny03...
The reason you don't hear of it is the cost of a sheet of the no name
solid surface is over $500 for 4x10x1/2" qwhich need at least 1/4" backer
plywood. the means a avg router top would cost over $125. thats to step
for my blood.
Not if you shop carefully. There was a piece that big in the lot that went
for $50 (out of which I got my stuff for $5).

thats not shopping thats steping in youy know what and coming up a smelling
like a rose.