A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

--

-Mike-

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.


photos puleeze!!!

Max

"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:65ecc$47fe8a1f
:


"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
news:b2382774-d22b-4ba3-adbd-13db0b8c2291
@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.


I thought about it for a bit, and I think I visually understand what the
OP was describing. It doesn't seem unsafe, or more unsafe than using the
saw normally.

The jig the OP described was a piece of wood that his circular saw sits
on, with a handle from the wood piece up. With the saw on the 2x4s just
above the floor, he can walk next to it controlling it from the handle.

Something like this: _/

If the saw was to hit a hard object and kick back, the saw itself would
probably be flying. Chances are, if it hits you it'd hit your legs. (So
wear shin guards. Doesn't everyone keep a pair next to their tools?)
Negative marks if the OP didn't connect a switch to the handle so he can
shut the saw off there. Another risk would be the saw hits something and
the handle jerks suddenly. You could injure your wrist in this case.
However, when was the last time you saw a saw jump and twist like a drill
that got stuck?

Thus far, it doesn't really seem like the jig is that unsafe. Opinions
either way?

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
...
"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:65ecc$47fe8a1f
:


"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
news:b2382774-d22b-4ba3-adbd-13db0b8c2291
@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.


I thought about it for a bit, and I think I visually understand what the
OP was describing. It doesn't seem unsafe, or more unsafe than using the
saw normally.

The jig the OP described was a piece of wood that his circular saw sits
on, with a handle from the wood piece up. With the saw on the 2x4s just
above the floor, he can walk next to it controlling it from the handle.

Something like this: _/

If the saw was to hit a hard object and kick back, the saw itself would
probably be flying. Chances are, if it hits you it'd hit your legs. (So
wear shin guards. Doesn't everyone keep a pair next to their tools?)
Negative marks if the OP didn't connect a switch to the handle so he can
shut the saw off there. Another risk would be the saw hits something and
the handle jerks suddenly. You could injure your wrist in this case.
However, when was the last time you saw a saw jump and twist like a drill
that got stuck?


I thought about it too, before I posted. Putting a circular saw on the end
of a 3 or 4 foot stick is just plain stupid. No other way around it. What
kind of control do you really think you can exert over that saw with this
kind of extension? You've never had a circular saw jump, or attempt to jump
in your hand? If not, all I can say is you have not used a circular saw
very much.

--

-Mike-

On Apr 10, 10:42 pm, Puckdropper wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:65ecc$47fe8a1f
:



"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
news:b2382774-d22b-4ba3-adbd-13db0b8c2291

@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

I thought about it for a bit, and I think I visually understand what the
OP was describing. It doesn't seem unsafe, or more unsafe than using the
saw normally.

The jig the OP described was a piece of wood that his circular saw sits
on, with a handle from the wood piece up. With the saw on the 2x4s just
above the floor, he can walk next to it controlling it from the handle.

Something like this: _/

If the saw was to hit a hard object and kick back, the saw itself would
probably be flying. Chances are, if it hits you it'd hit your legs. (So
wear shin guards. Doesn't everyone keep a pair next to their tools?)
Negative marks if the OP didn't connect a switch to the handle so he can
shut the saw off there. Another risk would be the saw hits something and
the handle jerks suddenly. You could injure your wrist in this case.
However, when was the last time you saw a saw jump and twist like a drill
that got stuck?

Thus far, it doesn't really seem like the jig is that unsafe. Opinions
either way?

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Exactly.

You start with a clear floor.

Place 4 2x4's flat on the floor..

1 on each of the long sides to support the width of the 4x8 sheet.

Place the other 2 on either side of the line to be cut.

The middle 2 support the cut boards and prevent pinching the blade
when the cut is almost complete.

Use a plate about 50% longer than the circular saw plate

Plug the circular saw into your extension handle that has its own on/
off switch.

The spring-loaded saw safety remain fully functional.

Set the depth of cut beyond the new plate less than 1-1/2" to avoid
hitting the floor.

I use a clamped on Stanley rip cutting jig.

Works like a charm!

Thanks for your comment.

On Apr 10, 11:06*pm, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Apr 10, 10:42 pm, Puckdropper wrote:



"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:65ecc$47fe8a1f
:

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
news:b2382774-d22b-4ba3-adbd-13db0b8c2291

@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. *Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! *Where would one even start with this comment? *I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

I thought about it for a bit, and I think I visually understand what the
OP was describing. *It doesn't seem unsafe, or more unsafe than using the
saw normally.

The jig the OP described was a piece of wood that his circular saw sits
on, with a handle from the wood piece up. *With the saw on the 2x4s just
above the floor, he can walk next to it controlling it from the handle.

Something like this: _/

If the saw was to hit a hard object and kick back, the saw itself would
probably be flying. *Chances are, if it hits you it'd hit your legs. *(So
wear shin guards. *Doesn't everyone keep a pair next to their tools?)
Negative marks if the OP didn't connect a switch to the handle so he can
shut the saw off there. *Another risk would be the saw hits something and
the handle jerks suddenly. *You could injure your wrist in this case.
However, when was the last time you saw a saw jump and twist like a drill
that got stuck?

Thus far, it doesn't really seem like the jig is that unsafe. *Opinions
either way?

Puckdropper
--
You can only do so much with caulk, cardboard, and duct tape.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Exactly.

You start with a clear floor.

Place 4 2x4's flat on the floor..

1 on each of the long sides to support the width of the 4x8 sheet.

Place the other 2 on either side of the line to be cut.

The middle 2 support the cut boards and prevent pinching the blade
when the cut is almost complete.

Use a plate about 50% longer than the circular saw plate

Plug the circular saw into your extension handle that has its own on/
off switch.

The spring-loaded saw safety remain fully functional.

Set the depth of cut beyond the new plate less than 1-1/2" to avoid
hitting the floor.

I use a clamped on Stanley rip cutting jig.

Works like a charm!

Thanks for your comment.

What stops the 2x4's from binding?

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.


I think I will pass. I fail to see how safe, accurate, or convenient this
would be. Sometimes a circular saw can be a handful when you are hanging on
to it like it was intended, let alone with a 4 foot extension handle on it!
When I need to rip some ply I either lay it across a couple saw horses and
stand beside it, or just run it through my table saw.
Greg

On Apr 10, 8:58 pm, "Mike Marlow" wrote:

I thought about it too, before I posted. Putting a circular saw on the end
of a 3 or 4 foot stick is just plain stupid. No other way around it.

Mr. Marlow:

Please clarify your comments. I was unable to understand your
somewhat clouded point of view on this subject.

I would like to read your "clarifications" when I pick myself up off
the floor where I fell off my chair from laughing so hard.

Come on, Mike. What were you really thinking?

"Eschew obfuscation" is a phrase you could have written!

Robert

Mike Marlow wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
...
"Mike Marlow" wrote in news:65ecc$47fe8a1f
:

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
news:b2382774-d22b-4ba3-adbd-13db0b8c2291
@m73g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.
Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

I thought about it for a bit, and I think I visually understand what the
OP was describing. It doesn't seem unsafe, or more unsafe than using the
saw normally.

The jig the OP described was a piece of wood that his circular saw sits
on, with a handle from the wood piece up. With the saw on the 2x4s just
above the floor, he can walk next to it controlling it from the handle.

Something like this: _/

If the saw was to hit a hard object and kick back, the saw itself would
probably be flying. Chances are, if it hits you it'd hit your legs. (So
wear shin guards. Doesn't everyone keep a pair next to their tools?)
Negative marks if the OP didn't connect a switch to the handle so he can
shut the saw off there. Another risk would be the saw hits something and
the handle jerks suddenly. You could injure your wrist in this case.
However, when was the last time you saw a saw jump and twist like a drill
that got stuck?


I thought about it too, before I posted. Putting a circular saw on the end
of a 3 or 4 foot stick is just plain stupid. No other way around it. What
kind of control do you really think you can exert over that saw with this
kind of extension? You've never had a circular saw jump, or attempt to jump
in your hand? If not, all I can say is you have not used a circular saw
very much.


Sounds to me like someone is preparing for a run at the Darwin Awards.

"Doug Winterburn wrote:

Sounds to me like someone is preparing for a run at the Darwin
Awards.

Touche.

Lew

BoyntonStu wrote:
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Carpenters used to have to just worry about keeping all their fingers.
Now it is toes also?

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Join Taglines Anonymous. We can help.

Robatoy wrote:


What stops the 2x4's from binding?

Why would they bind? They aren't being cut, just supporting the panel.

If I'm using a power hand saw to cut a panel I do it exactly the same
way...support the panel at/near the edges and on both sides of where I want
to cut. Doesn't everyone?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Mike Marlow wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

I just kneel on the sheet after placing it on a 4'x8' 2" foam sheet.

The handle will be interesting if anything goes bad.

On Apr 11, 6:23 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

What stops the 2x4's from binding?

Why would they bind? They aren't being cut, just supporting the panel.

If I'm using a power hand saw to cut a panel I do it exactly the same
way...support the panel at/near the edges and on both sides of where I want
to cut. Doesn't everyone?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Exactly!


Some just don't get it.

Besides, would you rather lose a toe or a finger?

Clarification: The extended handle is at an angle.

I am walking about 2 feet behind the blade.

The trigger is held by my finger.

(A secondary safety in series pressure switch could be installed
should the saw plate rise from the board)

[not a bad idea for all saws]

Assuming that the saw kicks back or rises, the guard would be in place
before the saw would reach me.

Thanks for your inputs.

wrote in message
...


Mr. Marlow:

Please clarify your comments. I was unable to understand your
somewhat clouded point of view on this subject.

I would like to read your "clarifications" when I pick myself up off
the floor where I fell off my chair from laughing so hard.

Come on, Mike. What were you really thinking?

"Eschew obfuscation" is a phrase you could have written!


I'm often accused of being too timid to express my real feelings on a
matter....

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:


"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on a
circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.

I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.

Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Holy Cow! Where would one even start with this comment? I'm no safety
nazi, but even I wouldn't be doing this.

I just plan ahead and have my supplier cut ply on their panel cutter. Need
to get one of those or make one.

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Thu, Apr 10, 2008, 2:15pm (EDT-3) (BoyntonStu) doth
burble:
**A walk-along circular saw plywood ripper. I put a 4 foot handle on
a circular saw. It was attached to a plywood plate and a right angle
edge, that positions the blade exactly 10" from a ripping guide.
I can rip plywood sitting on 2x4's on the floor by just walking along
guiding the circular saw against the guide. Just like using a lawn
edger.
Very accurate, safe, and convenient.

Yeah, I drop by every 2-3 days, but only read the first page or
two.

I've read the replies up to now. Convenient? Seems more like a
gadget to me. Safe? I suppose. Accurate? I don't see it.

With my joints I have problems handling sheet goods anymore. So
normally get mine sliced by my supplier, on their panel saw. No room
for my own or I'd have made one long ago. I'm not desperate, so only
been pondering different solutions so var. Straightedge and circular
saw works fine, but not quite what I want. However, this idea did give
me an idea. Because of what I'm involved with now, most of my pieces
are cut short way from panels at 5 7/8" wide. So, making a plywood shoe
to attach to the circular saw shoe, then put a lip on that shoe, so it
would butt against the panel, being held in place of course, and would
give consistent same width cuts. No set-up time, just have to make sure
the panel didn't move to throw the panel off. This seems definitely
doable. I'd also make sure there was a cutout so the guard would
operate. One thing - on any of my jigs or whatever, I make damn sure
I'd have to work hard to stick my fingers in the whirley parts, so I'd
make a handgrip for the free hand, and some pieces that would block
anyone's hand/fingers from the blad even if they did something stupid.
The other hand would be on the saw handle, and trigger. Should be safe
enough - I've never had problems with kickback with a carcular saw.



JOAT
10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President - Bumper Sticker

I do not have a problem with a woman president - except for Hillary.

On Apr 11, 6:09 am, BoyntonStu wrote:

Some just don't get it.

Besides, would you rather lose a toe or a finger?

Clarification: The extended handle is at an angle.

I am walking about 2 feet behind the blade.

The trigger is held by my finger.


What I don't get is, instead of building a long handle thingee with a
trigger on it so you can bend over and set your plywood on two by
fours, why not build this table instead?
http://thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

When you've built the long handle with a trigger on it, you've built a
gadget that has one use only. I'm not sure from the description but it
sounds like putting it on and taking it off is fairly complicated
task.

The panel cutting table gets the panel up where it's easy to work,
handles a full sheet of ply very well, has many other uses, is really
cheap and quick to build, and it stores easily.

There's lots of ways to do it and I'm not saying you shouldn't do it
your way but I have to admit it makes me a little nervous, even with
the trigger on it.

On Apr 11, 11:05 pm, " wrote:
On Apr 11, 6:09 am, BoyntonStu wrote:



Some just don't get it.

Besides, would you rather lose a toe or a finger?

Clarification: The extended handle is at an angle.

I am walking about 2 feet behind the blade.

The trigger is held by my finger.

What I don't get is, instead of building a long handle thingee with a
trigger on it so you can bend over and set your plywood on two by
fours, why not build this table instead?http://thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

When you've built the long handle with a trigger on it, you've built a
gadget that has one use only. I'm not sure from the description but it
sounds like putting it on and taking it off is fairly complicated
task.

The panel cutting table gets the panel up where it's easy to work,
handles a full sheet of ply very well, has many other uses, is really
cheap and quick to build, and it stores easily.

There's lots of ways to do it and I'm not saying you shouldn't do it
your way but I have to admit it makes me a little nervous, even with
the trigger on it.

The point is not to have to lift heavy plywood sheets.

I have the sheets standing agaist a wall.


I just let one fall over onto the 2x4's. Cut them where they fall.

It takes 2 screws and nuts to mount the plywood plate using 2 holes
already in the saw plate.

(Countersunk from below. Also chamfer the front edge for ease of
sliding)

No table to build, store, or setup. Just store 4-2x4's.

What advantage is there cutting at 3 feet higher than the floor?

You could buy one sheet of 1 or 2" thick polystyrene or Styrofoam
and eliminate the 2x4s. Nice idea.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...
On Apr 11, 11:05 pm, "
wrote:
On Apr 11, 6:09 am, BoyntonStu wrote:



Some just don't get it.

Besides, would you rather lose a toe or a finger?

Clarification: The extended handle is at an angle.

I am walking about 2 feet behind the blade.

The trigger is held by my finger.

What I don't get is, instead of building a long handle thingee
with a
trigger on it so you can bend over and set your plywood on two
by
fours, why not build this table
instead?http://thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

When you've built the long handle with a trigger on it, you've
built a
gadget that has one use only. I'm not sure from the description
but it
sounds like putting it on and taking it off is fairly
complicated
task.

The panel cutting table gets the panel up where it's easy to
work,
handles a full sheet of ply very well, has many other uses, is
really
cheap and quick to build, and it stores easily.

There's lots of ways to do it and I'm not saying you shouldn't
do it
your way but I have to admit it makes me a little nervous, even
with
the trigger on it.

The point is not to have to lift heavy plywood sheets.

I have the sheets standing agaist a wall.


I just let one fall over onto the 2x4's. Cut them where they
fall.

It takes 2 screws and nuts to mount the plywood plate using 2
holes
already in the saw plate.

(Countersunk from below. Also chamfer the front edge for ease
of
sliding)

No table to build, store, or setup. Just store 4-2x4's.

What advantage is there cutting at 3 feet higher than the floor?

On Apr 12, 7:57 am, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Apr 11, 11:05 pm, " wrote:



On Apr 11, 6:09 am, BoyntonStu wrote:

Some just don't get it.

Besides, would you rather lose a toe or a finger?

Clarification: The extended handle is at an angle.

I am walking about 2 feet behind the blade.

The trigger is held by my finger.

What I don't get is, instead of building a long handle thingee with a
trigger on it so you can bend over and set your plywood on two by
fours, why not build this table instead?http://thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm

When you've built the long handle with a trigger on it, you've built a
gadget that has one use only. I'm not sure from the description but it
sounds like putting it on and taking it off is fairly complicated
task.

The panel cutting table gets the panel up where it's easy to work,
handles a full sheet of ply very well, has many other uses, is really
cheap and quick to build, and it stores easily.

There's lots of ways to do it and I'm not saying you shouldn't do it
your way but I have to admit it makes me a little nervous, even with
the trigger on it.

The point is not to have to lift heavy plywood sheets.

I have the sheets standing agaist a wall.

I just let one fall over onto the 2x4's. Cut them where they fall.

It takes 2 screws and nuts to mount the plywood plate using 2 holes
already in the saw plate.

(Countersunk from below. Also chamfer the front edge for ease of
sliding)

No table to build, store, or setup. Just store 4-2x4's.

What advantage is there cutting at 3 feet higher than the floor?

Well, there's your back. And you have to carry the plywood to wherever
you store it, so whatever method you use, carrying plywood is part of
the process. And you have to bend down and set up the guide. And you
have to bend down and set up the saw. And then you have to pick up the
pieces. And then you have to pick up the 2x4's. Bend over, bend over,
bend over, bend over.

You can tilt the table on its side (as they show in the article you
didn't read), lean the plywood against it, and then just tilt it back
up. It's easy ans it's simple to set up the guide exactly where I need
it.

The advantage to cutting three feet higher than the floor is that you
have more control. That's where your eyes and hands, which you use to
control the tool, are. That's where it feels most comfortable. Your
method sounds much less comfortable.

As I said, you can do it your way. I think it's a single use gadget
where the table is multi use, doesn't require modifying the saw,
doesn't require unmodifying the saw after I'm done and is safer but if
you're happy with it, by all means have fun.

You'll let us know if there's any accidents, right? :-)

As an aside, if either of us got hurt for any reason while we were
cutting our plywood, which one of us would have to lie to collect the
insurance?

As an aside, if either of us got hurt for any reason while we were
cutting our plywood, which one of us would have to lie to collect the
insurance?


Neither, but I am willing to bet that keeping feet and hands further
away from from the blade is safer than up close.

I would like to see pictures of this extension device.

Once, when cutting Hardi Board Siding ( a lot ) I discovered that wet
boards (thanks to some inclement weather) cut smoother, quieter and
with little or no dust (the dust cutting dry boards with a Skill Saw
is phenomenal). So the wife and I formed a cutting team, she spritzing
the board in front of the blade from a spray bottle filled with water
- popi cutting with the saw.

Then, with lots more boards to go, I bought some 1/4" polyethylene
tubing, a bit of 1/4" copper, a valve to fit between and join the two
and a fitting to join the 1/4" poly to the garden hose.

At one end of the copper tubing, i place a small brad nail, then
hammered the tubing flat over it before removeing eh nail - forming a
nozzle, if you will. Then, I formed the copper alng the fixed blade
guard of my older skill saw so that the nozzle end of the tubing could
be set to squirt just before the cut and fastened the whole thing to
the guard with pop rivets and some wire restraining bits I had laying
about,

Now, to cut, I turned on the hose a bit, the opened the little valve
and cut.

No dust at all. Smooth, easy cutting with significantly less noise -
no more than cutting PT 2 by stock.

Later I heard about mounting the blade backwards and much later saw
the four tooth blades sold for this purpose. Bet they'd work better
with water added.

Just thought the safety-conscious guys on the list would love this
water, power tool, electricity and sharp object combination. Yous,
somewhere - I have pictures.

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:32:03 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:

Neither, but I am willing to bet that keeping feet and hands further
away from from the blade is safer than up close.

You're probably right on that aspect.

My worry would be more towards the lack of mechanical advantage if a
bind were encountered. The spinning blade could jump out of the kerf
and go skidding around, ruining an expensive sheet of stock.

It doesn't take much to destroy the .000000001" thick veneer on
current cabinet grade ply.


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** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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On Apr 14, 11:49 am, B A R R Y wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:32:03 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:



Neither, but I am willing to bet that keeping feet and hands further
away from from the blade is safer than up close.

You're probably right on that aspect.

My worry would be more towards the lack of mechanical advantage if a
bind were encountered. The spinning blade could jump out of the kerf
and go skidding around, ruining an expensive sheet of stock.

It doesn't take much to destroy the .000000001" thick veneer on
current cabinet grade ply.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Actually there is more of a mechanical advantage due to leverage plus
the weight of the operator standing over the extended saw handle.

My plywood is not cabinet grade, it is more like dog-house grade.

On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:40:59 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:


Actually there is more of a mechanical advantage due to leverage plus
the weight of the operator standing over the extended saw handle.

I'm not seeing the advantage, unless you're using two hands or have
Superman's wrist. Can you post a picture?

Based on the pivot points, a long arm fixed to the saw, held my a
short hand, I would see the saw enjoying the mechanical leverage gain.

Think of where the pivot point for a shovel or a wrecking bar is. It's
at the opposite end of the stick from your hand


My plywood is not cabinet grade, it is more like dog-house grade.

You still don't want to ruin it! G

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** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

On Apr 14, 6:49 pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:40:59 -0700 (PDT), BoyntonStu
wrote:



Actually there is more of a mechanical advantage due to leverage plus
the weight of the operator standing over the extended saw handle.

I'm not seeing the advantage, unless you're using two hands or have
Superman's wrist. Can you post a picture?

Based on the pivot points, a long arm fixed to the saw, held my a
short hand, I would see the saw enjoying the mechanical leverage gain.

Think of where the pivot point for a shovel or a wrecking bar is. It's
at the opposite end of the stick from your hand



My plywood is not cabinet grade, it is more like dog-house grade.

You still don't want to ruin it! G

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**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...


Actually there is more of a mechanical advantage due to leverage plus
the weight of the operator standing over the extended saw handle.


I doubt that.

--

-Mike-

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

Actually there is more of a mechanical advantage due to leverage plus
the weight of the operator standing over the extended saw handle.

Easy to disprove:

Grab an eight pound sledge hammer by the handle, 4" from the head, and hold
it straight out at arm's length.

Now grab it by the handle 3' from the head and try again.

Can you say: "mechanical disadvantage"?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 3/27/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message
...


Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

Imagine a long flimsy handle on that wheelbarrow. One single long flimsy
handle...

--

-Mike-

On Apr 15, 9:04 am, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...



Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

Imagine a long flimsy handle on that wheelbarrow. One single long flimsy
handle...

--

-Mike-


Why imagine long and flimsy?

A 4 foot 2x4 is not long or flimsy.

Imagine 2 crowbars: one 4" long, the other 4 feet long.

Which one applies the most torque?

The hold-down torque is applied about the handle fulcrum point located
at the rear of the saw plate.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

On Apr 15, 9:04 am, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...



Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

Imagine a long flimsy handle on that wheelbarrow. One single long
flimsy handle...

--

-Mike-


Why imagine long and flimsy?

A 4 foot 2x4 is not long or flimsy.

Imagine 2 crowbars: one 4" long, the other 4 feet long.

Which one applies the most torque?

The hold-down torque is applied about the handle fulcrum point located
at the rear of the saw plate.

No, the torque is applied at your wrist. You rotate your
wrist to rotate the 2x4, supplying the downward force on the
saw which is at the end of the 2x4.

Look at it the other way around. If, for whatever reason,
the saw wants to jump up, it has the mechanical advantage
due to the length of the 2x4 to twist your wrist about
its pivot point at the end of your arm.

"Greg Neill" wrote in message
m...
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

On Apr 15, 9:04 am, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...



Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

Imagine a long flimsy handle on that wheelbarrow. One single long
flimsy handle...

--

-Mike-


Why imagine long and flimsy?

A 4 foot 2x4 is not long or flimsy.

Imagine 2 crowbars: one 4" long, the other 4 feet long.

Which one applies the most torque?

The hold-down torque is applied about the handle fulcrum point located
at the rear of the saw plate.

No, the torque is applied at your wrist. You rotate your
wrist to rotate the 2x4, supplying the downward force on the
saw which is at the end of the 2x4.

Look at it the other way around. If, for whatever reason,
the saw wants to jump up, it has the mechanical advantage
due to the length of the 2x4 to twist your wrist about
its pivot point at the end of your arm.

Have a friend come over. Take a 6" long stick in your hand and have your
buddy try lever it back and forth in your hand. Now take a 4 foot long
stick, hold the end of it, and your buddy on the other end, and have him
lever it back and forth, then get back with us on which one takes less
effort for you buddy! (in this example your buddy equals the saw!)
Greg

"Greg O" wrote in message
m
"Greg Neill" wrote in message
m...


No, the torque is applied at your wrist. You rotate your
wrist to rotate the 2x4, supplying the downward force on the
saw which is at the end of the 2x4.

Look at it the other way around. If, for whatever reason,
the saw wants to jump up, it has the mechanical advantage
due to the length of the 2x4 to twist your wrist about
its pivot point at the end of your arm.

Have a friend come over. Take a 6" long stick in your hand and have
your buddy try lever it back and forth in your hand. Now take a 4
foot long stick, hold the end of it, and your buddy on the other end,
and have him lever it back and forth, then get back with us on which
one takes less effort for you buddy! (in this example your buddy
equals the saw!)
Greg

I think we're arguing the same side of the argument
here, only differing in ascribing where the torque
happens and where the resultant force occurs.

Torque occurs about a center of rotation. Torque
varies directly with the length of the lever arm.
A saw on a stick is asking for trouble.

"Greg Neill" wrote in message
m...

I think we're arguing the same side of the argument
here, only differing in ascribing where the torque
happens and where the resultant force occurs.

Torque occurs about a center of rotation. Torque
varies directly with the length of the lever arm.
A saw on a stick is asking for trouble.

Agreeing with you, just to lazy to go back the the OP's post and respond
there!
Greg

On Apr 15, 6:59 pm, "Greg O" wrote:
"Greg Neill" wrote in message

m..."BoyntonStu" wrote in message





On Apr 15, 9:04 am, "Mike Marlow" wrote:
"BoyntonStu" wrote in message

...

Imagine a short handled wheelbarrow,

Compared to a longer one, less torque at the wheel applied by the
operator.

Imagine a long flimsy handle on that wheelbarrow. One single long
flimsy handle...

--

-Mike-


Why imagine long and flimsy?

A 4 foot 2x4 is not long or flimsy.

Imagine 2 crowbars: one 4" long, the other 4 feet long.

Which one applies the most torque?

The hold-down torque is applied about the handle fulcrum point located
at the rear of the saw plate.

No, the torque is applied at your wrist. You rotate your
wrist to rotate the 2x4, supplying the downward force on the
saw which is at the end of the 2x4.

Look at it the other way around. If, for whatever reason,
the saw wants to jump up, it has the mechanical advantage
due to the length of the 2x4 to twist your wrist about
its pivot point at the end of your arm.

Have a friend come over. Take a 6" long stick in your hand and have your
buddy try lever it back and forth in your hand. Now take a 4 foot long
stick, hold the end of it, and your buddy on the other end, and have him
lever it back and forth, then get back with us on which one takes less
effort for you buddy! (in this example your buddy equals the saw!)
Greg

The stick in my hand is the saw in the slot.

You have it backwards.

Consider a shovel with a short handle to dig a hole? No way.

YOU use the long handle to increase YOUR torque on the shovel head.

In a like manner you use a long handle to keep the saw in the groove.

"BoyntonStu" wrote in message


The stick in my hand is the saw in the slot.

You have it backwards.

Consider a shovel with a short handle to dig a hole? No way.

YOU use the long handle to increase YOUR torque on the shovel head.

In a like manner you use a long handle to keep the saw in the groove.

No, you use the shovel like a lever, with the fulcrum
being the edge or side of the hole you're digging.
Mechanical advantage then is given by the ratio of
the handle length to the length of the shovel face.

When you pick up a load with the shovel, you move
one hand down closer to the shovel face to decrease
the torque required (the lower hand providing a new
fulcrum).

There is no fulcrum to provide a pivot point for the
saw on the end of a stick, just what force you can
muster by torquing the other end of the stick where
you're holding it.

Put a weight on a shovel face and try to lift it
while gripping only the shovel handle. Repeat
sliding one hand down near the business end.
Compare efforts.

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 00:42:56 -0400, "Greg Neill"
wrote:

No, you use the shovel like a lever, with the fulcrum
being the edge or side of the hole you're digging.
Mechanical advantage then is given by the ratio of
the handle length to the length of the shovel face.

I tried that example 15 messages ago, with the bonus of a wrecking bar
added for good measure. G


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** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
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Put a weight on a shovel face and try to lift it
while gripping only the shovel handle. Repeat
sliding one hand down near the business end.
Compare efforts.


Place the tip of the shovel face on the ground.

Is it easier to tip the load upwards with a short handle or with a
long handle?