hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

On Jan 21, 9:59 am, lerameur wrote:
hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.

Cheers,
Jeff

On Jan 21, 10:58 am, Jeff wrote:
On Jan 21, 9:59 am, lerameur wrote:

hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.



Hi Jeff,

The board is almost finish gluing. I did use strips , passed in the
planar to make sure it is straight.
ok here is my design, the plywood is not for building the board but
will be pernanently glued.
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
where the T are blockes with 2 inches in depth and the 't' are blocks
with a 1.5 inch in depth. The plywood is there to solidify even more.
Once it is glued, the board is flipped over and the plywood (or
presswood), is no where to be seen.
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

On Jan 21, 11:09 am, lerameur wrote:
On Jan 21, 10:58 am, Jeff wrote:



On Jan 21, 9:59 am, lerameur wrote:

hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.

Hi Jeff,

The board is almost finish gluing. I did use strips , passed in the
planar to make sure it is straight.
ok here is my design, the plywood is not for building the board but
will be pernanently glued.
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
where the T are blockes with 2 inches in depth and the 't' are blocks
with a 1.5 inch in depth. The plywood is there to solidify even more.
Once it is glued, the board is flipped over and the plywood (or
presswood), is no where to be seen.
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Is that view from the top or the side? It looks like the edges are ten
inches thick and the interior is 7.5 inches thick with plywood filling
the difference. Did I get that right? If that's the case, the plywood
serves as a spline. That is an acceptable use of plywood. I'm not sure
why presswood would be superior. Maybe your friend knows something we
don't...

On Jan 21, 11:33 am, Jeff wrote:
On Jan 21, 11:09 am, lerameur wrote:



On Jan 21, 10:58 am, Jeff wrote:

On Jan 21, 9:59 am, lerameur wrote:

hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.

Hi Jeff,

The board is almost finish gluing. I did use strips , passed in the
planar to make sure it is straight.
ok here is my design, the plywood is not for building the board but
will be pernanently glued.
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
where the T are blockes with 2 inches in depth and the 't' are blocks
with a 1.5 inch in depth. The plywood is there to solidify even more.
Once it is glued, the board is flipped over and the plywood (or
presswood), is no where to be seen.
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Is that view from the top or the side? It looks like the edges are ten
inches thick and the interior is 7.5 inches thick with plywood filling
the difference. Did I get that right? If that's the case, the plywood
serves as a spline. That is an acceptable use of plywood. I'm not sure
why presswood would be superior. Maybe your friend knows something we
don't...

remove 4 'T's at the end or the first and fifth line so as to make it
a rectangle. But i see it ok in the reply windows, not sure why it is
not the same way in view mode. It is a top view of the board where the
plywood fits on the small 't' making the board 2 inch thick
everywhere.
He said that plywood can twist in time and press wood wont. Is this
sounded?

k

lerameur wrote in
:


remove 4 'T's at the end or the first and fifth line so as to make it
a rectangle. But i see it ok in the reply windows, not sure why it is
not the same way in view mode. It is a top view of the board where the
plywood fits on the small 't' making the board 2 inch thick
everywhere.
He said that plywood can twist in time and press wood wont. Is this
sounded?

k

You need to use a fixed width font for your reply window when doing
drawings like this. My newsreader shows you're off by more than 4 T's.
Most people use Courier as their fixed width font.

If you're using a font such as Times New Roman, the spaces between the
characters will be compressed, which, while easier to read isn't good for
ASCII art.

Oh, btw, my rule of thumb is to use plywood for anything that stands a
chance of getting really wet. Good luck getting most other composite
boards flat again.

Puckdropper
--
Marching to the beat of a different drum is great... unless you're in
marching band.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

On Jan 21, 11:42 am, lerameur wrote:
On Jan 21, 11:33 am, Jeff wrote:



On Jan 21, 11:09 am, lerameur wrote:

On Jan 21, 10:58 am, Jeff wrote:

On Jan 21, 9:59 am, lerameur wrote:

hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.

Hi Jeff,

The board is almost finish gluing. I did use strips , passed in the
planar to make sure it is straight.
ok here is my design, the plywood is not for building the board but
will be pernanently glued.
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
where the T are blockes with 2 inches in depth and the 't' are blocks
with a 1.5 inch in depth. The plywood is there to solidify even more.
Once it is glued, the board is flipped over and the plywood (or
presswood), is no where to be seen.
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Is that view from the top or the side? It looks like the edges are ten
inches thick and the interior is 7.5 inches thick with plywood filling
the difference. Did I get that right? If that's the case, the plywood
serves as a spline. That is an acceptable use of plywood. I'm not sure
why presswood would be superior. Maybe your friend knows something we
don't...

remove 4 'T's at the end or the first and fifth line so as to make it
a rectangle. But i see it ok in the reply windows, not sure why it is
not the same way in view mode. It is a top view of the board where the
plywood fits on the small 't' making the board 2 inch thick
everywhere.
He said that plywood can twist in time and press wood wont. Is this
sounded?


Personally, I'd use plywood but I'll defer to the group. I like to
think I understand your design and I'm hard pressed to think you'll
have a problem with it twisting. I'd like to know *why* he thinks it
will.

Jeff

"lerameur" wrote in message
...
hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken
Presswood if your talking MDF wil swell when wet and would not be a good
choice for a cutting board bottom if there is any chance of it getting wet.
Plywood should not warp if you glue it to the bottom of the board, if it is
not glued it may experence some slight warping but not as much problem as
the MDF would have if it got wet. JMO

just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work" or
"plywood will warp" in time?

LLB

On Jan 21, 4:23 pm, "LLBrown" wrote:
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work" or
"plywood will warp" in time?

LLB

My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a picture
of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will not be
good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use the board
as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the counter, so
away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting something

ken

On Jan 21, 9:59*am, lerameur wrote:
hello,

I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Unless your blocks are perfectly sealed they are going to swell and
contract over time with changes in humidity. I would not recommend
glueing them to a substrate. The thickness you are describing should
not warp if you attach it to a plywood or high density particle board
substrate. I would secure the substrate to the support (cabinet?). I
would then drill slightly oversize holes in the substrate and use just
a few screws near the perimeter to keep the block from sliding. The
idea is to keep it secure while letting it move a little as it swells
and shrinks.
Regards,
Dave G.

lerameur wrote:

My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a picture
of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will not be
good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use the board
as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the counter, so
away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting something

You're gonna have to wash the board.


Lumpy

How do you do that AM radio voice?
Doesn't matter. Nobody listens to AM anymore.

www.LumpyVoice.org

On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:33:49 -0800 (PST), Jeff
wrote:


I am almost finish my cutting board project, Consisting of 200 wooden
block (2 inch by 4 inch, and 2 in thick). I have glued them together,
but wanted to rest and glue this on a large piece of wood for more
support. I was thinking plywood, but a friend said to use presswood,
because it wont work like plywood.
What wood would I best use?
thanks

ken

Is this an end-grain cutting board? It sounds like it. You'll probably
want to glue those pieces in rows at a time. I'd make some sort of
gluing jig that allows you support two sides and clamp two sides.
After they come out of the gluing jig, I'd square the rows with a
jointer and table saw. Then you should be able to glue the board
together. I'm not sure why you couldn't use plywood for a gluing base.
Lay wax paper on top of it.

Hi Jeff,

The board is almost finish gluing. I did use strips , passed in the
planar to make sure it is straight.
ok here is my design, the plywood is not for building the board but
will be pernanently glued.
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TttttttttttttttttttttttttttttT
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
where the T are blockes with 2 inches in depth and the 't' are blocks
with a 1.5 inch in depth. The plywood is there to solidify even more.
Once it is glued, the board is flipped over and the plywood (or
presswood), is no where to be seen.
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time? making
cracks on the board?
ken

Is that view from the top or the side? It looks like the edges are ten
inches thick and the interior is 7.5 inches thick with plywood filling
the difference. Did I get that right? If that's the case, the plywood
serves as a spline. That is an acceptable use of plywood. I'm not sure
why presswood would be superior. Maybe your friend knows something we
don't...

remove 4 'T's at the end or the first and fifth line so as to make it
a rectangle. But i see it ok in the reply windows, not sure why it is
not the same way in view mode. It is a top view of the board where the
plywood fits on the small 't' making the board 2 inch thick
everywhere.
He said that plywood can twist in time and press wood wont. Is this
sounded?


Personally, I'd use plywood but I'll defer to the group. I like to
think I understand your design and I'm hard pressed to think you'll
have a problem with it twisting. I'd like to know *why* he thinks it
will.

Jeff

Am I missing something obvious? I don't understand why you would put
anything on the bottom of a 1.5 or 2 inch thick end grain cutting
board. If properly glued wouldn't this have all the strength needed?
Also, no matter what is attached on the bottom won't the board itself
want to expand and contract across the grain and either split if the
backer is glued on or at least come unglued? I would think you would
just want a 2" endgrain slab.

lerameur wrote:
On Jan 21, 4:23 pm, "LLBrown" wrote:
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time?
making cracks on the board?
ken

Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work"
or "plywood will warp" in time?

LLB

My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a
picture of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will
not be good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use
the board as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the
counter, so away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting
something

Washing?
_____________

How big is this thing anyway?

You said you used 200 blocks each 2x4x2 inches and that it is 2 inches
thick. That means the surface area is 1600 square inches (2*4*200).
That's better than 11 square feet!!! Are you making a chopping board
or a counter top?

Whether or not it needs some sort of sub-base for support really
depends on how big it is. For a normally sized chopping block - even
a big one - 6-8 feet would be more than adequate support. Of course,
if the surface area is really 11+ square feet and you are chopping up
sides of beef with an axe then the feet aren't going to "cut" it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 22, 7:47 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameurwrote:
On Jan 21, 4:23 pm, "LLBrown" wrote:
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time?
making cracks on the board?
ken

Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work"
or "plywood will warp" in time?

LLB

My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a
picture of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will
not be good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use
the board as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the
counter, so away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting
something

Washing?
_____________

How big is this thing anyway?

You said you used 200 blocks each 2x4x2 inches and that it is 2 inches
thick. That means the surface area is 1600 square inches (2*4*200).
That's better than 11 square feet!!! Are you making a chopping board
or a counter top?

Whether or not it needs some sort of sub-base for support really
depends on how big it is. For a normally sized chopping block - even
a big one - 6-8 feet would be more than adequate support. Of course,
if the surface area is really 11+ square feet and you are chopping up
sides of beef with an axe then the feet aren't going to "cut" it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

HI,
Well I willnot be cutting sides of beef on it. More like regular day
chopping. I really like doing this project . I posted two pictures:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Butcher_block/
It sis the underneath of the table where I will put in the plywood. I
still have to add the top and bottom end but I will wait until the
board is in. You can see the two side, these are 2 inches in depth,
the other blocks are 1.5 inch, so with a 0.5 thick board It will be 2
inch everywhere.
I thought of using screws aND glue to install on the board. Also when
I finished glueing last night, I found out that the board was warp,
(this shape: ^ ) which was not half the through the glueing. I wet
the board on both sides and put some weight on both ends Also added
some 1mm chimms on the end, This morning it was much better. because
of the chimms it warped a bit the other way, so I just layed it down
flat, water it again et put on some weights again , I hope it will be
perfect tonight and I can put on the plywood.
k

lerameur wrote:
On Jan 22, 7:47 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameurwrote:
On Jan 21, 4:23 pm, "LLBrown" wrote:
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time?
making cracks on the board?
ken
Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work"
or "plywood will warp" in time?
LLB
My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a
picture of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will
not be good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use
the board as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the
counter, so away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting
something
Washing?
_____________

How big is this thing anyway?

You said you used 200 blocks each 2x4x2 inches and that it is 2 inches
thick. That means the surface area is 1600 square inches (2*4*200).
That's better than 11 square feet!!! Are you making a chopping board
or a counter top?

Whether or not it needs some sort of sub-base for support really
depends on how big it is. For a normally sized chopping block - even
a big one - 6-8 feet would be more than adequate support. Of course,
if the surface area is really 11+ square feet and you are chopping up
sides of beef with an axe then the feet aren't going to "cut" it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

HI,
Well I willnot be cutting sides of beef on it. More like regular day
chopping. I really like doing this project . I posted two pictures:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Butcher_block/
It sis the underneath of the table where I will put in the plywood. I
still have to add the top and bottom end but I will wait until the
board is in. You can see the two side, these are 2 inches in depth,
the other blocks are 1.5 inch, so with a 0.5 thick board It will be 2
inch everywhere.
I thought of using screws aND glue to install on the board. Also when
I finished glueing last night, I found out that the board was warp,
(this shape: ^ ) which was not half the through the glueing. I wet
the board on both sides and put some weight on both ends Also added
some 1mm chimms on the end, This morning it was much better. because
of the chimms it warped a bit the other way, so I just layed it down
flat, water it again et put on some weights again , I hope it will be
perfect tonight and I can put on the plywood.
k

If I"m seeing that picture right, you
have a number of blocks that are 4" long
by 2" wide that are both edge-glued and
end-glued that looks (loosely) like the
diagram below. Is that correct?

Is there anything other than glue
holding the endgrain joints together,
like dowels or biscuits?

If it's just glue, I can't see that
supporting its own weight. Even with
dowels, I don't know how strong it would
be.

Maybe I'm not reading that pic right.
_______
| | | |
| | | |
|__ |__|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |___|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|__|__|__ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |__|__|
--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

On Jan 22, 5:44 pm, Tanus wrote:
lerameur wrote:
On Jan 22, 7:47 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameurwrote:
On Jan 21, 4:23 pm, "LLBrown" wrote:
just want to know whch one to use, plywood will work in time?
making cracks on the board?
ken
Ken,
I think everyone is confused. Do you mean "plywood will work"
or "plywood will warp" in time?
LLB
My friend said that plywood will not work because it will bend and
twist with time, thus causing crack on the board I will take a
picture of the unfinish board tonight. I agree with press wood will
not be good if it has water on it, then again, I dont need to use
the board as a raft, It will be setting on 6 or eight legs on the
counter, so away from water... I think, unless I am forgetting
something
Washing?
_____________

How big is this thing anyway?

You said you used 200 blocks each 2x4x2 inches and that it is 2 inches
thick. That means the surface area is 1600 square inches (2*4*200).
That's better than 11 square feet!!! Are you making a chopping board
or a counter top?

Whether or not it needs some sort of sub-base for support really
depends on how big it is. For a normally sized chopping block - even
a big one - 6-8 feet would be more than adequate support. Of course,
if the surface area is really 11+ square feet and you are chopping up
sides of beef with an axe then the feet aren't going to "cut" it.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico

HI,
Well I willnot be cutting sides of beef on it. More like regular day
chopping. I really like doing this project . I posted two pictures:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Butcher_block/
It sis the underneath of the table where I will put in the plywood. I
still have to add the top and bottom end but I will wait until the
board is in. You can see the two side, these are 2 inches in depth,
the other blocks are 1.5 inch, so with a 0.5 thick board It will be 2
inch everywhere.
I thought of using screws aND glue to install on the board. Also when
I finished glueing last night, I found out that the board was warp,
(this shape: ^ ) which was not half the through the glueing. I wet
the board on both sides and put some weight on both ends Also added
some 1mm chimms on the end, This morning it was much better. because
of the chimms it warped a bit the other way, so I just layed it down
flat, water it again et put on some weights again , I hope it will be
perfect tonight and I can put on the plywood.
k

If I"m seeing that picture right, you
have a number of blocks that are 4" long
by 2" wide that are both edge-glued and
end-glued that looks (loosely) like the
diagram below. Is that correct?

Is there anything other than glue
holding the endgrain joints together,
like dowels or biscuits?

If it's just glue, I can't see that
supporting its own weight. Even with
dowels, I don't know how strong it would
be.

Maybe I'm not reading that pic right.
_______
| | | |
| | | |
|__ |__|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |___|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|__|__|__ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |__|__|
--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

yes you are correct, there is only glue holding them together now, You
can see from the first picture that the left and right column are
thicker blocks. It is as suck to hide the plywood once the table is
flipped over. It will act as a counter top and cutting board. Now the
table is a bit warped, I wetted it down again and added some weights.
k

lerameur wrote:
snip
If I"m seeing that picture right, you
have a number of blocks that are 4" long
by 2" wide that are both edge-glued and
end-glued that looks (loosely) like the
diagram below. Is that correct?

Is there anything other than glue
holding the endgrain joints together,
like dowels or biscuits?

If it's just glue, I can't see that
supporting its own weight. Even with
dowels, I don't know how strong it would
be.

Maybe I'm not reading that pic right.
_______
| | | |
| | | |
|__ |__|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |___|_ |
| | | |
| | | |
|__|__|__ |
| | | |
| | | |
|_ |__|__|


yes you are correct, there is only glue holding them together now, You
can see from the first picture that the left and right column are
thicker blocks. It is as suck to hide the plywood once the table is
flipped over. It will act as a counter top and cutting board. Now the
table is a bit warped, I wetted it down again and added some weights.
k

Alright, I am pretty sure I see what it
is now.

But end grain can't be glued to end
grain with any assurance that it will
hold for any period of time.

You've got them in neat columns and
rows, and no staggering of the pieces.

If the pieces had been staggered, then
you would have had long grain to long
grain all along the sides, and it would
have helped the end grain gluing.

But I see this thing failing at each of
the end grain joints.

However, I read back from your original
posts in November, and someone said that
end to end gluing is possible. Maybe,
but my take from the pictures is that if
you put each end of this thing on raised
blocks, say 12", and stand on it...it's
going to break along those endgrain
glued lines.

--
Tanus

This is not really a sig.

http://www.home.mycybernet.net/~waugh/shop/

lerameur wrote:

yes you are correct, there is only glue holding them together now,
You can see from the first picture that the left and right column
are thicker blocks. It is as suck to hide the plywood once the
table is flipped over. It will act as a counter top and cutting
board. Now the table is a bit warped, I wetted it down again and
added some weights. k

It looks like you *really* wet it down. My best advice is...

STOP DOING THAT

As thick as that is - and as wet as it appears you have made it - it
is going to take weeks if not months to dry out and reach some
semplance of stability.

To get it dry again, put a layer of brown wrapping paper on something
flat; put your project on the paper; put another layer of paper on
top; put a sheet of plywood on the very top and add wrights. Concrete
blocks would work. Tomorrow, unpack all, throw away the papers from
top and bottom; turn the project over and repeat with new paper. Do
that every day; flipping it each day, until such time as it is truly
dry - as I said, that will be weeks.

Once it is dry (next summer?) afix it to plywood by bedding it in a
layer of mastic such as liquid nails, silicone caulk, et al.
Additionally, screw through the plywood into it. Use LOTS of screws
and drive them at a steep angle so they penetrate at least an inch
into the blocks. If the blocks have any tendency to warp, the plywood
will NOT keep them from doing so. Hell, ply warps and twists all by
itself without help from anything. That means you would be best off
firmly affixing the finished project - blocks + ply - to the existing
countertop or removing the existing one and replacing it with your
butcher block top. The latter option is the more logical IMO.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 23, 4:57 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameur wrote:
yes you are correct, there is only glue holding them together now,
You can see from the first picture that the left and right column
are thicker blocks. It is as suck to hide theplywoodonce the
table is flipped over. It will act as a counter top and cutting
board. Now the table is a bit warped, I wetted it down again and
added some weights. k

It looks like you *really* wet it down. My best advice is...

STOP DOING THAT

As thick as that is - and as wet as it appears you have made it - it
is going to take weeks if not months to dry out and reach some
semplance of stability.

To get it dry again, put a layer of brown wrapping paper on something
flat; put your project on the paper; put another layer of paper on
top; put a sheet ofplywoodon the very top and add wrights. Concrete
blocks would work. Tomorrow, unpack all, throw away the papers from
top and bottom; turn the project over and repeat with new paper. Do
that every day; flipping it each day, until such time as it is truly
dry - as I said, that will be weeks.

Once it is dry (next summer?) afix it toplywoodby bedding it in a
layer of mastic such as liquid nails, silicone caulk, et al.
Additionally, screw through theplywoodinto it. Use LOTS of screws
and drive them at a steep angle so they penetrate at least an inch
into the blocks. If the blocks have any tendency to warp, theplywood
will NOT keep them from doing so. Hell, ply warps and twists all by
itself without help from anything. That means you would be best off
firmly affixing the finished project - blocks + ply - to the existing
countertop or removing the existing one and replacing it with your
butcher block top. The latter option is the more logical IMO.


well the board is dry now, but wow, major twist to it.
look at the pics
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Bu...lock/side1.jpg
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Bu...lock/side2.jpg
I really dont know how to straighten this, plus it has 4 major crack
from the glue that got undone.
Why did it bend so much ? was i applying to much force when I was
glueing the pieces together?
k

lerameur wrote:
On Jan 23, 4:57 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameur wrote:
yes you are correct, there is only glue holding them together now,
You can see from the first picture that the left and right column
are thicker blocks. It is as suck to hide theplywoodonce the
table is flipped over. It will act as a counter top and cutting
board. Now the table is a bit warped, I wetted it down again and
added some weights. k

It looks like you *really* wet it down. My best advice is...

STOP DOING THAT

As thick as that is - and as wet as it appears you have made it -
it is going to take weeks if not months to dry out and reach some
semplance of stability.

To get it dry again, put a layer of brown wrapping paper on
something flat; put your project on the paper; put another layer
of paper on top; put a sheet ofplywoodon the very top and add
wrights. Concrete blocks would work. Tomorrow, unpack all, throw
away the papers from top and bottom; turn the project over and
repeat with new paper. Do that every day; flipping it each day,
until such time as it is truly dry - as I said, that will be weeks.

Once it is dry (next summer?) afix it toplywoodby bedding it in a
layer of mastic such as liquid nails, silicone caulk, et al.
Additionally, screw through theplywoodinto it. Use LOTS of screws
and drive them at a steep angle so they penetrate at least an inch
into the blocks. If the blocks have any tendency to warp,
theplywood will NOT keep them from doing so. Hell, ply warps and
twists all by itself without help from anything. That means you
would be best off firmly affixing the finished project - blocks +
ply - to the existing countertop or removing the existing one and
replacing it with your butcher block top. The latter option is
the more logical IMO.


well the board is dry now, but wow, major twist to it.
look at the pics
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Bu...lock/side1.jpg
http://www3.sympatico.ca/lerameur/Bu...lock/side2.jpg
I really dont know how to straighten this, plus it has 4 major crack
from the glue that got undone.

Why did it bend so much ?


Because you wet it.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

lerameur wrote:

well the board is dry now,

No, it's not. It won't be dry for weeks.
______________

I really dont know how to straighten this,

You can't.
_______________

Why did it bend so much ?

Because you wet it. And on just one side from the looks of it. The
wet side expanded. Expanded = wider. Wider on one side = warp.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jan 24, 4:54 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameur wrote:
well the board is dry now,

No, it's not. It won't be dry for weeks.
______________

I really dont know how to straighten this,

You can't.
_______________

Why did it bend so much ?

Because you wet it. And on just one side from the looks of it. The
wet side expanded. Expanded = wider. Wider on one side = warp.

I wetted both sides, probably more on one side than the other.
..I flipped it over so the good side rests on the floor, This morning
it was almost straight. 3 corners flat on the floor and the fourth one
sticking up 3/4 of an inch. I placed the weights over the table again
and I see tonight what happens.
The board is relatively dry now.. maybe a few days to dry again..?
k

On Jan 24, 4:54 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
lerameur wrote:
well the board is dry now,

No, it's not. It won't be dry for weeks.
______________

I really dont know how to straighten this,

You can't.
_______________

Why did it bend so much ?

Because you wet it. And on just one side from the looks of it. The
wet side expanded. Expanded = wider. Wider on one side = warp.

I wetted both sides, probably more on one side than the other.
..I flipped it over so the good side rests on the floor, This morning
it was almost straight. 3 corners flat on the floor and the fourth one
sticking up 3/4 of an inch. I placed the weights over the table again
and I see tonight what happens.
The board is relatively dry now.. maybe a few days to dry again..?
k

I would like to know if by adding USP mineral oil on the board it will
do the same as adding water, meaning will it twist again.
Or once it has been straight for a few days, the wood will not be as
much to warp ??

ken