I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over the
other and why???


Thanks
Don

mgbgt wrote:

I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over the
other and why???

The Jet is not a true cabinet saw. The trunnion is similar to that of a
contractor's saw.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet
Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and
the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over
the
other and why???


Thanks
Don


Don't do it. What you will have is an expensive saw that is too weak to be
much good. Get the 220 in there and get a proper saw.

If you can't do the electrical, get a contractor saw for the time being.

Come on gang, tell him!
--
Jim in NC

The 220v version of the Grizzly is a great saw. The thing I don't get about
the 110v version is that most people don't have a dedicated circuit that can
handle it. You may have to run a special circuit. May as well run a 220v
circuit and get the more powerful saw for the same price.

montyhp

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet
Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and
the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over
the
other and why???


Thanks
Don

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet
Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and
the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over
the
other and why???


Don,

If I were you, I would wait until I could run the 220 feed and then not be
limited to cabinet saws that can run at 110.

my $0.10
Frank

I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable of
either 110 or 220 but maybe I'm missing something in all of this, aren't
the saws them selves the same except for the motor that is bolted to them ?
If this is the case, why is it a disadvantage to get one that will use
either voltage? I realize that most if not all of the 220v saws advertised
have 3 or more HP but under normal usage or better stated only occasionally
cutting 8/4 or thicker hardwoods will the 2hp grizzly saw not be the same
saw that is delivered with the 3hp 220 volt motor or are there other
differences in the table saws beside the motor. I'm saying I'm not looking
into the 220 upgrade but if I do that the saw is going to get put off for
awhile longer and my thought is if I get the saw now that is able to be
switched from 110 to 220 then when I get wiring updated all I will have to
do is rewire the existing saw.



"Frank Ketchum" wrote in message
ink.net...

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I am getting ready to make the move to a cabinet saw but I don't want to
have to upgrade electrical right now so I 'm looking at only saws that
are
capable if 110v. I have found a jet 10" 1-3/4 HP Tilting Arbor Cabinet
Table
saw model # JWCS-10A-PF as well as the grizzly 1023S110. Price is
pretty
much the same, the Jet can be bought locally for $849.00 (in stock) and
the
Grizzly is $825.00 + $55.00 shipping. Which saw have the advantage over
the
other and why???


Don,

If I were you, I would wait until I could run the 220 feed and then not be
limited to cabinet saws that can run at 110.

my $0.10
Frank

mgbgt wrote:

I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable of
either 110 or 220 but maybe I'm missing something in all of this, aren't
the saws them selves the same except for the motor that is bolted to them ?

snip

The Grizzly may be, but the Jet is just a "contractor saw in a box".

snip

my thought is if I get the saw now that is able to be
switched from 110 to 220 then when I get wiring updated all I will have to
do is rewire the existing saw.

And when you get the 220V line run you'll still have a 2 HP saw. You'll be
kicking yourself saying "I should have waited and gotten the larger motor."

If you don't have a tablesaw now, check the swap sheet, "for sale" ads, etc. and
pick up a used contractor saw for use until you get the 220V line in. You
could sell the contractor saw when you're ready to upgrade, and most likely
recoup the money spent for the saw.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"mgbgt" wrote in message

I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable
of
either 110 or 220 but maybe I'm missing something in all of this,

if I get the saw now that is able to be
switched from 110 to 220 then when I get wiring updated all I will have to
do is rewire the existing saw.

What is the wiring you have now? If it is a dedicated 20A circuit, you are
probably OK with the dual voltage and do the change over later.

If, however, you plan to plug the saw into the same circuit as your lights,
don't even think about it. I have a 1 1/2 HP Delta. When I bought it, I
planned to upgrade the wiring in the garage. Of course I had the saw put
together and wanted to try it out as it would be another couple of days to
finish the electrical. I flipped the switch and the three fluorescent
fixtures in the shop actually went out for a few seconds and the motor
slowly came up to speed. Then the lights came back on. Down right scary!

So, if you have to upgrade the electrical anyway, why not look into the 3 HP
saw if it is in your budget. Unless you have the 20A circuit, yes, you are
limiting yourself. You will have a saw that is unusable.
Ed

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable
of
either 110 or 220 but maybe I'm missing something in all of this, aren't
the saws them selves the same except for the motor that is bolted to them
?
If this is the case, why is it a disadvantage to get one that will use
either voltage? I realize that most if not all of the 220v saws advertised
have 3 or more HP but under normal usage or better stated only
occasionally
cutting 8/4 or thicker hardwoods will the 2hp grizzly saw not be the same
saw that is delivered with the 3hp 220 volt motor or are there other
differences in the table saws beside the motor. I'm saying I'm not looking
into the 220 upgrade but if I do that the saw is going to get put off for
awhile longer and my thought is if I get the saw now that is able to be
switched from 110 to 220 then when I get wiring updated all I will have to
do is rewire the existing saw.


The kicker is the HP. When you change that 110 saw to 220, you will not get
any more HP.

You will wish for more HP, even with light cutting, and even more for the
tough stuff.

I finally got an honest 5 HP 12" saw, and I can not believe the difference
going from 3HP to 5 HP. Now go the other way. Ouch.
--
Jim in NC

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable
of
either 110 or 220
snip

Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110.
My 2¢
Nahmie

Most of the motors that Griz sells are either 110 or 220, depends on how you
wire the motor.
"Norman D. Crow" wrote in message
...

"mgbgt" wrote in message
link.net...
I don't think I am limiting myself at this point, both saws area capable
of
either 110 or 220
snip

Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110.
My 2¢
Nahmie

"Steven Bliss" wrote in message
...
Most of the motors that Griz sells are either 110 or 220, depends on how
you
wire the motor.
Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110.
My 2¢
Nahmie

Not trying to start any major war here, I just went & checked catalog, and
it *appears* that this particular model is only 110. At least in this case
they don't say anything about it being "convertible".
Nahmie

"Norman D. Crow" wrote:

"Steven Bliss" wrote in message
...
Most of the motors that Griz sells are either 110 or 220, depends on how
you
wire the motor.
Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110.
My 2¢
Nahmie

Not trying to start any major war here, I just went & checked catalog, and
it *appears* that this particular model is only 110. At least in this case
they don't say anything about it being "convertible".
Nahmie

Correct. The spec's on the web list the G1023S110 as 110 volts only. See:

http://www.grizzly.com/graphics/prod...G1023S110.pdf?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

I suspect there may be some typos in there -- or else its a motor that I
don't want. Notice that the amps is listed as 24 amps. How many people
have a 25 or 30 amp 110 volt circuit in their shop/home? That's taking 110v
to the extreme, in my opinion.

Bob


"Nova" wrote in message
...
"Norman D. Crow" wrote:

"Steven Bliss" wrote in message
...
Most of the motors that Griz sells are either 110 or 220, depends on
how
you
wire the motor.
Are you sure? Seems to me the Griz will only go 110.
My 2¢
Nahmie

Not trying to start any major war here, I just went & checked catalog,
and
it *appears* that this particular model is only 110. At least in this
case
they don't say anything about it being "convertible".
Nahmie

Correct. The spec's on the web list the G1023S110 as 110 volts only.
See:

http://www.grizzly.com/graphics/prod...G1023S110.pdf?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

"Bob Davis" wrote in message
ink.net...
I suspect there may be some typos in there -- or else its a motor that I
don't want. Notice that the amps is listed as 24 amps. How many people
have a 25 or 30 amp 110 volt circuit in their shop/home? That's taking
110v
to the extreme, in my opinion.

Bob

[snip]

Right! You would need a special circuit. Why not make that circuit 220v (It
is a very simple thing to do) and get a 3 hp saw for the same price!

montyhp