Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw. 2) accurate miter/bevel stops. 3) either a high tooth count blade
from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher
price. 3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to
buy a laserKerf if not included. 4) EZ blade change 5) replacable zero
clearance insert.

Of course quality and longevity.
Thanks
Mark

Simple, you need a DeWalt RAS.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Mark" wrote in message
om...
Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw. 2) accurate miter/bevel stops. 3) either a high tooth count blade
from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher
price. 3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to
buy a laserKerf if not included. 4) EZ blade change 5) replacable zero
clearance insert.

Of course quality and longevity.
Thanks
Mark

Mark wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a

1) Easy depth of cut setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow
out dado's with multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado
head on the table saw.

None of the SCMS I'm aware of have accurate depth of cut stops.
That's more of a radial arm saw feature. And I wouldn't want
to put any kind of dado blade in a SCMS. Nibbling a dado doesn't
produce a flat bottom well


2) accurate miter/bevel stops.

You do have what you need to check for the accuracy you
want right? A "simple" compound miter saw might be more
appropriate if you want to do really accurate angles etc.
but s SCMS will probably give you adequate results - if
you take the time to set it up right.

3) either a high tooth count blade from factory or a lower price to
offset the cost of buying a higher price.

The Makita 1212 came with a fairly good blade with high tooth
count.

3) [ probably meant 4) laser would be a plus...but again a lower
price offset to buy a laserKerf if not included.

Laser will get you just "close". Skip the gimmick

4) [5?] EZ blade change

Most of the major brand SCMS are easy

5) [6?] replacable zero clearance insert.

Most of the SCMS come with plastic replaceable inserts
The Makita has a pair of adjustable pieces that you can
set to whatever blade width you want.

Of course quality and longevity.

Let's see. I recall my working days mantra - "You want
Fast, Good and Cheap - pick two." You've defined conflicting
criteria. Pry open the wallet and pay for the features
you need. The Makita 1212 comes to about $900 when all
the fence height extensions and hold downs/hold ins have
been added. Through in another $100 plus for some infeed
and outfeed tables and you're almost done. Add another
hundred or so for "mircro adjustable" flip stops, a pair
for flat ends and a pair for mitered ends and you're
close to a low end Unisaw. But it'll be a work horse
and, with proper care, do a good job for a long time.


Thanks
Mark

If you find one that meets all of your criteria PLEASE
let us know.

charlie b

On 22 Sep 2003 07:55:55 -0700, (Mark) wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw.

You want a Radial Arm Saw if you're planning on dadoing with this
tool. No SCMS I've ever seen could accept a dado set on the arbor,
nor could it accept a depth of cut setting.

2) accurate miter/bevel stops.

I'm happy with my reconditioned Delta SCMS's stops. It took me about
an hour to align the saw when I got it, but I saved $250 over a new
saw.

3) either a high tooth count blade
from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher
price.

Good luck.

3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to
buy a laserKerf if not included.

I've never had one, and don't really know what I'm missing. I can't
understand how a laser could really make my results better.

4) EZ blade change

My Delta is no more difficult than a hand held circular saw.

5) replacable zero
clearance insert.

Make your own with the original and a router, you're a woodworker,
right? G Set up the router, and with some carpet tape, thin
plywood, and the original, you can make 20 in an hour.

Barry

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:

On 22 Sep 2003 07:55:55 -0700, (Mark) wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw.

You want a Radial Arm Saw if you're planning on dadoing with this
tool. No SCMS I've ever seen could accept a dado set on the arbor,
nor could it accept a depth of cut setting.

Barry,

The Delta 36-240 & 250 definitely allow you to set the depth of cut.
While you're right about no dado blades I've used my 250 to nibble away
dados in 1x & 2x with no problems.

Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.

Since I owned good 10" blades I decided to go with a 10" slide. I
chose the Bosch and I'm so far very satisfied with my choice. I would
say that the depth of cut adjustment is fairly easy but I have not
used it with a dado blade.

Compared to the Dewalt I find the angle adjustments to be a notch
better. I have recently purchased an orbital sander and I again
considered all brands but it ended up being a Bosch again.

D.Martin



Scott Brownell wrote in message ...
"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:

On 22 Sep 2003 07:55:55 -0700, (Mark) wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw.

You want a Radial Arm Saw if you're planning on dadoing with this
tool. No SCMS I've ever seen could accept a dado set on the arbor,
nor could it accept a depth of cut setting.

Barry,

The Delta 36-240 & 250 definitely allow you to set the depth of cut.
While you're right about no dado blades I've used my 250 to nibble away
dados in 1x & 2x with no problems.

Scott

"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
Simple, you need a DeWalt RAS.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?

-Jack

On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:25:01 -0700, "JackD" wrote:


I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?


Maybe not everyone needs the saw to be portable? That would be my
guess.

Barry

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote
in message ...
On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:25:01 -0700, "JackD" wrote:


I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a
miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?


Maybe not everyone needs the saw to be portable? That would be my
guess.

Barry

I would imagine that the people asking the question generally would want it
to be portable.
Otherwise they would be looking at an RAS right?

-Jack

JackD wrote:

I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?

-Jack

For use in the applications that the original poster stated a RAS would be the
best choice.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

I suspect there is still some fallout from when Delta (and others?)
portrayed a RAS to be good for planing, drill press, routing, etc..
Sorta like a cheap Do-All machine. Probably were jealous of ShopSmith.
Anyone that ever tried to use one for those purposes (that I have
talked with) were VERY disappointed with the outcome. It didn't last
so that should tell you something. And that back when DeWalt made a
hell of a RAS. My father bought one; last machine he ever bought. I
always attributed it to the RAS good-for- everything salesmanship.


On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:25:01 -0700, "JackD" wrote:



"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
Simple, you need a DeWalt RAS.

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

I always wonder what the people suggesting a RAS instead of a sliding
compound miter saw are thinking. Do they truly not understand that a miter
saw goes with you where you are working while a RAS stays in one place?

-Jack

On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 09:50:05 -0700, "JackD" wrote:


I would imagine that the people asking the question generally would want it
to be portable.
Otherwise they would be looking at an RAS right?


Not in my case. I bought an SCMS for stationary use in my shop. I
have a table saw for ripping, dadoing, and extra-precision
crosscutting.

My SCMS is usually used for roughing lumber to length, and crosscuts
when precision beyond a 64'th isn't necessary. I occasionally move
it, but not to the extent that moving a RAS would be a huge problem.
My SCMS is set up with dust hood, board supports, etc...

Barry

On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 19:27:08 -0400, Scott Brownell
wrote:


The Delta 36-240 & 250 definitely allow you to set the depth of cut.
While you're right about no dado blades I've used my 250 to nibble away
dados in 1x & 2x with no problems.


I have the same saw, I never even knew it had a depth of cut setting.
G

After I did the ol' RTFM, I'm a bit unconvinced about it's accuracy.

I'm sure it would be fine for roughing a half-lap joint for framing,
but how would it work for fine stuff?

Barry

On 22 Sep 2003 07:55:55 -0700, (Mark) wrote:

Hi Guys,
I'm interested in hearing the wreck's opinion on 10/12" sliding
compound miter saw. My criteria areas a 1) Easy depth of cut
setting - I'm thinking I would be able to plow out dado's with
multiple passes on a long board easier than a dado head on the table
saw. 2) accurate miter/bevel stops. 3) either a high tooth count blade
from factory or a lower price to offset the cost of buying a higher
price. 3) laser would be a plus...but again a lower price offset to
buy a laserKerf if not included. 4) EZ blade change 5) replacable zero
clearance insert.

the makita is about the best saw out there. it does have a depth stop but you
can't get really accurate multiple cuts from it. because you can press it a
little harder and cut a bit deeper. but as far as I know it is about the only
saw that has it.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

"B a r r y B u r k e J r ." wrote:

On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 19:27:08 -0400, Scott Brownell
wrote:

The Delta 36-240 & 250 definitely allow you to set the depth of cut.
While you're right about no dado blades I've used my 250 to nibble away
dados in 1x & 2x with no problems.

I have the same saw, I never even knew it had a depth of cut setting.
G

After I did the ol' RTFM, I'm a bit unconvinced about it's accuracy.

I'm sure it would be fine for roughing a half-lap joint for framing,
but how would it work for fine stuff?

Barry

It just takes a couple of minutes to set up. I've used it for both
framing & finish trim applications with excellent results. If I had alot
to do then I'd definitely use a router or dado in the TS but for just a
couple then it's a no-brainer to just use the SCMS. Try it sometime.

Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.

On Wed, 24 Sep 2003 09:23:43 -0400, Scott Brownell
wrote:

If I had alot
to do then I'd definitely use a router or dado in the TS but for just a
couple then it's a no-brainer to just use the SCMS. Try it sometime.


I will. Thanks for the tip, I learn something new every day here on
the ol' 'wreck.

Barry