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  #11   Report Post  
Old October 12th 06, 02:44 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble


"DCH" wrote in message
...
mac davis wrote in
:

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 22:22:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:


"DCH" wrote in message
.18...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago,
for 40$ looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added
a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it
seems to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw
was made for a 9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought
that might be an issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has
seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab
the blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in
any then you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be
able to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft
may be bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be
deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...l.asp?ProdID=3

&nPrdIm
ageID=&CatID=1 and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to
tune, several of them could be causing the problem that you're
seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred
bucks by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw
but it beats not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH


ALL excellent suggestions and could be a tutorial!

I would like to begin the inspection with UNPLUG THE SAW, but I admit
to being a bit paranoid about stuff like that...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


Greetings....

I lapped the washers( retainers, collars, not really sure of the name )
on the sides of the blade flat...the blade does not have any play I can
feel on the arbor, the arm seems to be as square as I can
measure....both to fence and the table...sooooo I will try a better
blade and see if that helps any, the saw only wobbles when its
cutting...it runs very smooth until the cutting begins...I think the saw
qualifies under the emerson recall, so at the very least I might make a
few bucks off the saw...thanks to all for the advise...


Is the blade parallel to the arm?



  #12   Report Post  
Old October 12th 06, 03:22 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Sep 2006
Posts: 177
Default RAS blade wobble

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 22:25:24 GMT, DCH wrote:

mac davis wrote in
:

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 22:22:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:


"DCH" wrote in message
.18...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago,
for 40$ looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added
a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it
seems to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw
was made for a 9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought
that might be an issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has
seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab
the blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in
any then you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be
able to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft
may be bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be
deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...l.asp?ProdID=3

&nPrdIm
ageID=&CatID=1 and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to
tune, several of them could be causing the problem that you're
seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred
bucks by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw
but it beats not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH


ALL excellent suggestions and could be a tutorial!

I would like to begin the inspection with UNPLUG THE SAW, but I admit
to being a bit paranoid about stuff like that...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


Greetings....

I lapped the washers( retainers, collars, not really sure of the name )
on the sides of the blade flat...the blade does not have any play I can
feel on the arbor, the arm seems to be as square as I can
measure....both to fence and the table...sooooo I will try a better
blade and see if that helps any, the saw only wobbles when its
cutting...it runs very smooth until the cutting begins...I think the saw
qualifies under the emerson recall, so at the very least I might make a
few bucks off the saw...thanks to all for the advise...

DCH



Attach a pencil or nail to the saw blade. Set up your framing square
on the back fence. Set a tooth, pencil point or nail point to trace
the 90 degree leg of the framing square with the saw turned off. Do
things wobble then? I have a radial arm saw from a production shop.
The groves the 4 motor housing runs in is worn in the normal stroke
area. it is tight all the way back and all the extended.
  #13   Report Post  
Old October 12th 06, 03:46 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 21
Default RAS blade wobble

DCH wrote:
mac davis wrote in
:

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 22:22:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

"DCH" wrote in message
...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago,
for 40$ looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added
a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it
seems to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw
was made for a 9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought
that might be an issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has
seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....
First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab
the blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in
any then you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be
able to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft
may be bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be
deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...l.asp?ProdID=3

&nPrdIm
ageID=&CatID=1 and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to
tune, several of them could be causing the problem that you're
seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred
bucks by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw
but it beats not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH

ALL excellent suggestions and could be a tutorial!

I would like to begin the inspection with UNPLUG THE SAW, but I admit
to being a bit paranoid about stuff like that...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


Greetings....

I lapped the washers( retainers, collars, not really sure of the name )
on the sides of the blade flat...the blade does not have any play I can
feel on the arbor, the arm seems to be as square as I can
measure....both to fence and the table...sooooo I will try a better
blade and see if that helps any, the saw only wobbles when its
cutting...it runs very smooth until the cutting begins...I think the saw
qualifies under the emerson recall, so at the very least I might make a
few bucks off the saw...thanks to all for the advise...

DCH


I have a 10" Craftsman radial arm saw. I got it used back in the 1970's
and still use it. The manual for mine is available on the Internet (Old
Woodworking Tools). Google will find it. It's worth doing the
alignment procedure just to rule out things and get everything tight.
If the wobble only shows up when cutting, double check the blade. A
single bent or broken tooth can cause a lot of trouble. If dull or mis
sharpened, bad things will happen. Was it me, I'd invest the price of a
new carbide blade to get the saw running. What kind of shape is the
table in? If its warped, or badly cut up, cutting a new one might help.
On my Craftsman, table alignment comes first. You loosen the angle
irons holding the table to the base. Then adjust five set screws buried
in the bottom of the table with PEM nuts until you can swing the arm
from side to side with the blade just scraping the table. When the
table is flat, tighten the angle irons to the base to hold it in
position. Then use a framing square to get the arm at right angles to
the fence, and a combination square to get the blade at right angles to
the table.

David Starr


  #14   Report Post  
Old July 11th 18, 07:14 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2018
Posts: 1
Default RAS blade wobble

replying to DCH, findthehumorinthings wrote:
I know this forum is dated, but thought I would contribute a key finding on
older Craftsman RAS saws. I just picked up a 1979 model. Hardly used. First
thing I noticed was blade wobble. Confirmed it was the motor shaft. Removed
the blade and blade washers. Noticed a rolled pin through the shaft to hold
the motor shaft to the inside bolt next to the motor. Pulled that rolled pin
and checked the motor shaft again. It's now completely straight. Looked at
the hole where the pin was. It was not lined up. It was drilled incorrectly
in the factory. I'm likely going to redrill that hole so I can fasten the pin
in again, but that was a reasonably easy fix for a bad manufacturing problem
that caused this saw to sit in a garage for almost 40 years, unused.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...le-340423-.htm


  #15   Report Post  
Old July 11th 18, 07:59 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2017
Posts: 192
Default RAS blade wobble

On 7/11/2018 1:14 PM, findthehumorinthings wrote:
replying to DCH, findthehumorinthings wrote:
I know this forum is dated, but thought I would contribute a key finding on
older Craftsman RAS saws.¬* I just picked up a 1979 model.¬* Hardly used.
First
thing I noticed was blade wobble.¬* Confirmed it was the motor shaft.
Removed
the blade and blade washers.¬* Noticed a rolled pin through the shaft to
hold
the motor shaft to the inside bolt next to the motor.¬* Pulled that
rolled pin
and checked the motor shaft again.¬* It's now completely straight.
Looked at
the hole where the pin was.¬* It was not lined up.¬* It was drilled
incorrectly
in the factory.¬* I'm likely going to redrill that hole so I can fasten
the pin
in again, but that was a reasonably easy fix for a bad manufacturing
problem
that caused this saw to sit in a garage for almost 40 years, unused.


I'm having a hard time conceptualizing this...how about posting a link
to a picture???

--




  #16   Report Post  
Old July 11th 18, 09:26 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,704
Default RAS blade wobble

dpb writes:
On 7/11/2018 1:14 PM, findthehumorinthings wrote:
replying to DCH, findthehumorinthings wrote:
I know this forum is dated, but thought I would contribute a key finding on
older Craftsman RAS saws.¬* I just picked up a 1979 model.¬* Hardly used.
First
thing I noticed was blade wobble.¬* Confirmed it was the motor shaft.
Removed
the blade and blade washers.¬* Noticed a rolled pin through the shaft to
hold
the motor shaft to the inside bolt next to the motor.¬* Pulled that
rolled pin
and checked the motor shaft again.¬* It's now completely straight.
Looked at
the hole where the pin was.¬* It was not lined up.¬* It was drilled
incorrectly
in the factory.¬* I'm likely going to redrill that hole so I can fasten
the pin
in again, but that was a reasonably easy fix for a bad manufacturing
problem
that caused this saw to sit in a garage for almost 40 years, unused.


I'm having a hard time conceptualizing this...how about posting a link
to a picture???



A guess is that the blade wasn't seated squarely on the shaft and
by taking the blade off and reinstalling it (regardless of the roll pin)
it became square again (and lost the wobble).
  #17   Report Post  
Old July 11th 18, 10:38 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Dec 2017
Posts: 192
Default RAS blade wobble

dpb writes:
On 7/11/2018 1:14 PM, findthehumorinthings wrote:
replying to DCH, findthehumorinthings wrote:
I know this forum is dated, but thought I would contribute a key finding on
older Craftsman RAS saws.¬* I just picked up a 1979 model.¬* Hardly used.
First
thing I noticed was blade wobble.¬* Confirmed it was the motor shaft.
Removed
the blade and blade washers.¬* Noticed a rolled pin through the shaft to
hold
the motor shaft to the inside bolt next to the motor.¬* Pulled that
rolled pin
and checked the motor shaft again.¬* It's now completely straight.
Looked at
the hole where the pin was.¬* It was not lined up.¬* It was drilled
incorrectly
in the factory.¬* I'm likely going to redrill that hole so I can fasten
the pin
in again, but that was a reasonably easy fix for a bad manufacturing
problem
that caused this saw to sit in a garage for almost 40 years, unused.


I'm having a hard time conceptualizing this...how about posting a link
to a picture???



A guess is that the blade wasn't seated squarely on the shaft and
by taking the blade off and reinstalling it (regardless of the roll pin)
it became square again (and lost the wobble).

Something of that ilk seems far more likely...

--



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