Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips, cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant, donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two! The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips, bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

2-1/2" dia. .008" wire wheel with a 1/4" spindle on each side of the blade
riding in 1/4" bronze bushings, sometimes done at a slight angle. Make them
adjustable or spring loaded.


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow. Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs... But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention
literal high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message

| Awl--
|
| A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
| m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
| bad-assed Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more
| important machine right now.

No you're not.
C'mon, it seems like nary a month goes by without us being treated to
how you burned up or out some electrical thingie. You'll be runnign 440
from the pole through that thing in hops to slice up bar stock faster,
and then you'll be posting about how the sparks welded the motor to the
frame.

See? You're thinkign about it already. You *know* you want to...


moT

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 02:19:06 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

2-1/2" dia. .008" wire wheel with a 1/4" spindle on each side of the blade
riding in 1/4" bronze bushings, sometimes done at a slight angle. Make them
adjustable or spring loaded.


If ANYOne will know this..Tom will. Follow his information.

Gunner


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow. Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs... But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention
literal high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

You know, the worst part about it is, I know better...
As soon as the **** happens, I clap my forehead, and groan, Had I only
thought for a goddamm minute...
But, in the heat'o'battle, something usually gets lost.... usually
something flammable... and expensive...

But I look at it this way:
Making my life eternally miserable is how God gets some of his kicks--that,
and the occasional genocidal campaigns the world endures.
Ergo, he won't let me die--at least not too soon.
Ergo, I won't get bone cancer--which is sumpn I really worry about--dudn't
run in my family, but I worry about it anyway.

After dat Fadal charred my garage ceiling, I thought, ****, now ahma live
goddamm *forever*, w/ a goddamm fadal that I'll never ever ever be able to
fix... but, free of bone cancer.

Funny, true story--
I have a very very old built-in hidden safe, a Schwab, w/ an inner "jewelry
safe", a sep. 4" thick round door, w/ its own combination... wow!
Well, when I bought the house, it was of course locked, w/ no combination.
My heart sank...
After supplying all kinds of documentation to Schwab, one of their good ol'
boys gave me the factory combination, on the chance it was never changed.

Well it was, but the lock is kind of peculiar anyway, so while muddling w/
this combo for quite some time w/ the guy over the phone, in a literal 1 in
a million shot, I *accidentally opened the safe*!!!! Unfuknbelievable....
The Schwab guy certainly didn't believe me, figgering I was just some
goddamm moron who, finally, correctly dialed in the factory combo he gave
me, and just didn't realize it.
Not so, as I was able to grok the true combo after removing the inner dial
from the open door--really no big deal.

Well, my stratospheric joy was shortlived, as I quickly became *certain*
that I would be diagnosed w/ bone cancer within the month. I was in fact
terrified for the next 3 mos...

Now, I don't go thru those bouts so much anymore, as I have sunken more into
a low-level ongoing Existential/karmic Ennui, which occasionally spikes into
Existential/karmic Crisis.
Far better, tho, than intense worrying about bone cancer. Which, I have
ascertained, is really pretty rare. Still.....

Much more, I'm sure, than you wanted to know.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Tom Accuosti" wrote in message
t...
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message

| Awl--
|
| A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
| m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
| bad-assed Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more
| important machine right now.

No you're not.
C'mon, it seems like nary a month goes by without us being treated to
how you burned up or out some electrical thingie. You'll be runnign 440
from the pole through that thing in hops to slice up bar stock faster,
and then you'll be posting about how the sparks welded the motor to the
frame.

See? You're thinkign about it already. You *know* you want to...


moT

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips, cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant, donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two! The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips, bruhs....
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete

On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 20:37:10 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear

A brush with Urethane bristles might wear little ....
--
Cliff

On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 20:37:10 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Compressed air????

Air is expensive. And chips might fly into eyes, other
equipment ....
--
Cliff

Pete,
This sounds really neat, novel, mebbe perfect! And more than a just a good
idea, as you have a working version!

Can you give more particulars, like how the block is held on the blade, the
path of the air, etc.?
Source for needle valves?

If I infer correctly, your air comes straight from the top of the U.
I wonder if holes lower down, just above the kerf, wouldn't be better--more
effective, w/ less air.
Ahm thinkin mini-manifold here, that could deliver both coolant *and* air,
at different points/angles to the blade....
Also, if the sides of the U project down below the teeth, the air force
might be amplified a little *and* the chips better directed downward.

Also, it might be that the best, if not the most convenient, place for this
unit would be before the second set of guide bearings, so's the blade would
go thru these bearings chip-free--might add some life to all parts
concerned.

Howz the air noise??
Have you noticed any improvement in saw performance, reliability, blade
longevity, etc. as a result of this item?

If worse comes to worse, I'll do sumpn w/ a wire wheel (mebbe two, like the
guide bearings, but sprung on the blade), but I'm definitely up for your
idea, skill-set permitting....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
oups.com...

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant, donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two! The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete

Oh, I didn't realize Tom had in fact suggested *two* wire wheels, sprung...
Autopilot, donchaknow--proly set to burn down my next g-d machine w/
incorrect voltages....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Pete,
This sounds really neat, novel, mebbe perfect! And more than a just a
good idea, as you have a working version!

Can you give more particulars, like how the block is held on the blade,
the path of the air, etc.?
Source for needle valves?

If I infer correctly, your air comes straight from the top of the U.
I wonder if holes lower down, just above the kerf, wouldn't be
better--more effective, w/ less air.
Ahm thinkin mini-manifold here, that could deliver both coolant *and* air,
at different points/angles to the blade....
Also, if the sides of the U project down below the teeth, the air force
might be amplified a little *and* the chips better directed downward.

Also, it might be that the best, if not the most convenient, place for
this unit would be before the second set of guide bearings, so's the blade
would go thru these bearings chip-free--might add some life to all parts
concerned.

Howz the air noise??
Have you noticed any improvement in saw performance, reliability, blade
longevity, etc. as a result of this item?

If worse comes to worse, I'll do sumpn w/ a wire wheel (mebbe two, like
the guide bearings, but sprung on the blade), but I'm definitely up for
your idea, skill-set permitting....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
oups.com...

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put
a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete

The block is bolted to the blade guide. It -Barely- has enough
clearance for the saw, there is a small gap, you hardly use any air at
all. You hardly notice any noise.
Since it is part of the saw blade guide, it stays aligned even when you
adjust the saw guide...
Basically it looks like an extra blade guide in front of the blade
guide. (Some blade guides are carbide blocks) And this protects the
blade guide, And since it is only .5" thick, it doesnt take up much
space, so you can adjust your blade guide in close to the work.
The closer it fits to the blade, the less air ir takes. It won't wear
out, and it only uses air when tyou are cutting, and very little at
that.

I found a needle valve in a box of stuff I got from an auction. Try
looking in there. Or maybe McMaster, or MSC, or somebody else's
catalog, or some shop in your area.
Tom is the expert at brushes, Clif is the expert at diverting threads
off course.
Pete

Thanks Gunner, I make zillions of these for a couple of OEM customers and
we did a bit of twiddling to get the right action for the crybaby cheap
*******s...oh, did I say that out loud?

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 02:19:06 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

2-1/2" dia. .008" wire wheel with a 1/4" spindle on each side of the blade
riding in 1/4" bronze bushings, sometimes done at a slight angle. Make
them
adjustable or spring loaded.


If ANYOne will know this..Tom will. Follow his information.

Gunner


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over
the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow. Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!

The spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs... But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention
literal high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put
a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 16:33:39 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

Thanks Gunner, I make zillions of these for a couple of OEM customers and
we did a bit of twiddling to get the right action for the crybaby cheap
*******s...oh, did I say that out loud?


Chuckle...

send me your Shipping information again, if you would.

Gunner


"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 02:19:06 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

2-1/2" dia. .008" wire wheel with a 1/4" spindle on each side of the blade
riding in 1/4" bronze bushings, sometimes done at a slight angle. Make
them
adjustable or spring loaded.


If ANYOne will know this..Tom will. Follow his information.

Gunner


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over
the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow. Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!

The spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs... But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention
literal high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put
a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll



"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner


"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

Here's a new one for you: Weld and brush at the same time...hook one lead
from your stick welder to a power brush or, hell, just use straight 220, and
the other lead to your workpiece or some fancy new machine and start
brush-welding!!! (remember to wear eye protection)


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Oh, I didn't realize Tom had in fact suggested *two* wire wheels,
sprung...
Autopilot, donchaknow--proly set to burn down my next g-d machine w/
incorrect voltages....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Pete,
This sounds really neat, novel, mebbe perfect! And more than a just a
good idea, as you have a working version!

Can you give more particulars, like how the block is held on the blade,
the path of the air, etc.?
Source for needle valves?

If I infer correctly, your air comes straight from the top of the U.
I wonder if holes lower down, just above the kerf, wouldn't be
better--more effective, w/ less air.
Ahm thinkin mini-manifold here, that could deliver both coolant *and*
air, at different points/angles to the blade....
Also, if the sides of the U project down below the teeth, the air force
might be amplified a little *and* the chips better directed downward.

Also, it might be that the best, if not the most convenient, place for
this unit would be before the second set of guide bearings, so's the
blade would go thru these bearings chip-free--might add some life to all
parts concerned.

Howz the air noise??
Have you noticed any improvement in saw performance, reliability, blade
longevity, etc. as a result of this item?

If worse comes to worse, I'll do sumpn w/ a wire wheel (mebbe two, like
the guide bearings, but sprung on the blade), but I'm definitely up for
your idea, skill-set permitting....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
oups.com...

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over
the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put
a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...

send me your Shipping information again, if you would.

Gunner

OHIO BRUSH CO.
2680 LISBON RD.
CLEVELAND OH 44104

TOLL-FREE: 888-411-3265
FAX: 216-791-6615

(good save!---no more teasing!)

Sounds like a plan--I'll use the fadal table as a welding table... Which I
think someone is already doing w/ their plasma cutter!

JIC people don't know the difference (and elegance) of your wire wheel
solution, and Kal's:
Your wire wheels are sprung on either side of the blade, just like the guide
bearings.
Kal's is a single wire wheel held *under* the blade. Pretty much works, but
is kind of crappy.
Yours sounds like a really good idea, altho might it be better if they were
not totally free-wheeling on the blade, for some frictional scraping?

The limitation on both brush methods, however, is that this cleaning action
occurs *after* the post-cut guide bearings--altho I'm not sure how much of a
limitation this actually is.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
et...
Here's a new one for you: Weld and brush at the same time...hook one lead
from your stick welder to a power brush or, hell, just use straight 220,
and the other lead to your workpiece or some fancy new machine and start
brush-welding!!! (remember to wear eye protection)


"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Oh, I didn't realize Tom had in fact suggested *two* wire wheels,
sprung...
Autopilot, donchaknow--proly set to burn down my next g-d machine w/
incorrect voltages....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Pete,
This sounds really neat, novel, mebbe perfect! And more than a just a
good idea, as you have a working version!

Can you give more particulars, like how the block is held on the blade,
the path of the air, etc.?
Source for needle valves?

If I infer correctly, your air comes straight from the top of the U.
I wonder if holes lower down, just above the kerf, wouldn't be
better--more effective, w/ less air.
Ahm thinkin mini-manifold here, that could deliver both coolant *and*
air, at different points/angles to the blade....
Also, if the sides of the U project down below the teeth, the air force
might be amplified a little *and* the chips better directed downward.

Also, it might be that the best, if not the most convenient, place for
this unit would be before the second set of guide bearings, so's the
blade would go thru these bearings chip-free--might add some life to all
parts concerned.

Howz the air noise??
Have you noticed any improvement in saw performance, reliability, blade
longevity, etc. as a result of this item?

If worse comes to worse, I'll do sumpn w/ a wire wheel (mebbe two, like
the guide bearings, but sprung on the blade), but I'm definitely up for
your idea, skill-set permitting....
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
wrote in message
oups.com...

Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my
bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important
machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume.
Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which
is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive
wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over
the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off,
get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each
set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays
the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge
chips, cuz
it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow.
Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or
even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip
dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much
about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The
spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs...
But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention literal
high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the
wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really
effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and
put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll

What you want is a guide that just clears the blade, a U shaped piece
if you will, that you connect via a needle valve to the air suply.
Basically it is a small steel block, with a slit just big enough for
the blade to clear. The top of the block has a hole for the air line.
Maybe 1/8" npt.
Anyway, that's what I got, it sure works slick, and you want the needle
valve, so you can match the air blast to the job.
It is bolted to the saw blade guide.
An employee made this for me one day, he liked it so much at his former
job.

Pete

On 14 Dec 2005 08:05:48 -0800, wrote:

I found a needle valve in a box of stuff I got from an auction. Try
looking in there. Or maybe McMaster, or MSC, or somebody else's
catalog, or some shop in your area.

Pet store? For aquariums, perhaps.
--
Cliff

On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 15:32:36 -0500, "Proctologically Violated©®"
wrote:

Sounds like a plan--I'll use the fadal table as a welding table... Which I
think someone is already doing w/ their plasma cutter!

JIC people don't know the difference (and elegance) of your wire wheel
solution, and Kal's:
Your wire wheels are sprung on either side of the blade, just like the guide
bearings.
Kal's is a single wire wheel held *under* the blade. Pretty much works, but
is kind of crappy.
Yours sounds like a really good idea, altho might it be better if they were
not totally free-wheeling on the blade, for some frictional scraping?

The limitation on both brush methods, however, is that this cleaning action
occurs *after* the post-cut guide bearings--altho I'm not sure how much of a
limitation this actually is.


This sounds like an opportunity for Tom..aftermarket blade brush kits.
Designed to be retrofitted to any band saw, cheaply enough to
encourage every saw owner to buy one..and with consumables available
from Ohio Brush.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

I was wondering if anyone has cast urethane like they use in
suspension bushings? I would like to make some special bushings. Any
help would be appreciated.
GD

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I was wondering if anyone has cast urethane like they use in
suspension bushings? I would like to make some special bushings. Any
help would be appreciated.

I've done things that are probably quite similar ...... "suspension
bushings"?
What polymer system are you thinking of?
--
Cliff

This sounds like an opportunity for Tom..aftermarket blade brush kits.
Designed to be retrofitted to any band saw, cheaply enough to
encourage every saw owner to buy one..and with consumables available
from Ohio Brush.

Gunner


OH, GREAT! Another project...thanks a bunch!

Make a mold, .004 - .01 shrink/inch. Pour in urethane. Cure in an oven.
Pull part out of mold.


--
Remove "nospam" to get to me.

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 14:22:45 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
wrote:

This sounds like an opportunity for Tom..aftermarket blade brush kits.
Designed to be retrofitted to any band saw, cheaply enough to
encourage every saw owner to buy one..and with consumables available
from Ohio Brush.

Gunner


OH, GREAT! Another project...thanks a bunch!

Your welcome. G

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

I'm am not sure what they use for the bushings that companies like
Energy Suspension use to make there's.
GD

Cliff wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:


I was wondering if anyone has cast urethane like they use in
suspension bushings? I would like to make some special bushings. Any
help would be appreciated.


I've done things that are probably quite similar ...... "suspension
bushings"?
What polymer system are you thinking of?

GD wrote:
Cliff wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I'm am not sure what they use for the bushings that companies like
Energy Suspension use to make there's.
GD



Urethane.

--
John R. Carroll
Machining Solution Software, Inc.
Los Angeles San Francisco
www.machiningsolution.com

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I was wondering if anyone has cast urethane like they use in
suspension bushings?

Talk to Smooth-On, who make such things. They're very helpful people in
selling small quantities and they're generous with product information.
If you're in the UK, deal through Bentley Chemicals.

Pouring is easy, but it's worth rigging up to vacuum degass the poured
moulds. A simple vacuum handpump is adequate - I do small stuff in one
of those Vac-U-Vin coffee jars.

"Proctologically Violated©®" wrote in message
...
Awl--

A'ight, I've sorta recovered from burnin up the goddamm powerfeed on
m'Bridgeport, 'n' ahm sure gonna be more careful powering up my bad-assed
Kalamazoo 9x16 hydraulic saw, which is actually the more important machine
right now.

Speaking of which....

The 1" saw blade *really* cuts, bruhs, w/ boucou chip volume. Kalamazoo
actually provides--and strongly recommends--a blade chip cleaner, which is
basically a rotating wire wheel just after the cut/before the drive wheel,
causing the chips to fall down in a mesh basket, rather than all over the
quite substantial coolant tank/pump, or packing into the drive wheel
bay/screwing up the blade.

This is an "ok" method, altho the brush wheel tends to wear, fall off, get
lost, bent, etc.

Note that the Kal has *two* low-pressure coolant jets, integrated into
each set of blade guide arms/bearings, w/ shutoffs--really neat.
One jet hits the blade just prior to the cut, and the other jet sprays the
blade "after the cutting fact"!
Was always puzzled by this second spray--it cain't be to dislodge chips,
cuz it's not really aimed right, and it's pretty weak--mini-giant,
donchaknow. Purpose??

So a cupla idears come to mind, which you all might find useful (or even
already have) in your own applications.:

A separate more powerful mini-giant, dedicated solely to chip dislodging
(ie, focused at one point);
A different type pump altogether, low volume/high pressure--don't know
much about these. Would an old hydraulic pump mebbe work?? I got two!
The spray really need only be a cupla sq. mm, for effective chip
dislodging.
Tapping into my fadal pump, and blast the **** out of those chips,
bruhs... But tank logistics become pretty messy here, not to mention
literal high-volume coolant mess...

OR....drum roll
Compressed air???? mebbe w/ a little mini-giant coolant, and blow the wet
chips straight down! A little noisey, mebbe, but likely really effective.

Comments? Idears?
Would also like to make a pan for my $199 horzl bandsaw special, and put a
mini-giant on it as well. Inyone done this?

TIA.
----------------------------
Mr. P.V.'d
formerly Droll Troll
PV,

Are you using a vari-pitch blade? They really work well, virtually
eliminate blade chatter and allows the same blade to cut a wider variety of
materials.

Gary H. Lucas

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 20:31:08 GMT, "John R. Carroll"
wrote:

GD wrote:
Cliff wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I'm am not sure what they use for the bushings that companies like
Energy Suspension use to make there's.
GD



Urethane.

There are a lot of them with widely varied properties ...
Most of the really good engineering ones seemed to be oven-cured
thermosets, many are susceptible to IR & UV radiation (even IR from
a space heater or steam heating system), some are hard, some soft,
all sorts of fillers ... some more abrasion resistant than others.
Some have UV &/or IR stabilizing agents, some fillers help too ...
Keep all moisture away from the plural components -- the resins
(polyols) may like to absorb water from the air but it reacts with the
isocynates in the other main component ... vacuum degas after
mixing if possible before pouring & don't splash air back in when
pouring ....

This assumes you want an engineering-grade non-foamed product,
among other things.
--
Cliff

Cliff wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 20:31:08 GMT, "John R. Carroll"
wrote:

GD wrote:
Cliff wrote:
On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I'm am not sure what they use for the bushings that companies like
Energy Suspension use to make there's.
GD



Urethane.

There are a lot of them with widely varied properties ...
Most of the really good engineering ones seemed to be oven-cured
thermosets, many are susceptible to IR & UV radiation (even IR from
a space heater or steam heating system), some are hard, some soft,
all sorts of fillers ... some more abrasion resistant than others.
Some have UV &/or IR stabilizing agents, some fillers help too ...
Keep all moisture away from the plural components -- the resins
(polyols) may like to absorb water from the air but it reacts with the
isocynates in the other main component ... vacuum degas after
mixing if possible before pouring & don't splash air back in when
pouring ....

This assumes you want an engineering-grade non-foamed product,
among other things.

I believe the material was BayFlex, a two part polyol/isocyanate and it was
mixed in a Cannon diving piston head.
IIRC anyway.

--
John R. Carroll
Machining Solution Software, Inc.
Los Angeles San Francisco
www.machiningsolution.com

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 07:30:48 -0500, GD wrote:

I was wondering if anyone has cast urethane like they use in
suspension bushings? I would like to make some special bushings. Any
help would be appreciated.
GD
Gary-You're best bet would be to buy solid rod and machine it. I used
to have parts cast with urethane. To get the properties I wanted the
chemicals and curing process was pretty involved. I could buy urethane
that was castable by myself but it just wasn't strong enough. You can
check with TAP Plastics. They do have the stuff. See if it has the
hardness and toughness you want. Then try a plastic company for rems
of urethane and try machining it. If you needed bushings then surface
finish wouldn't be that important. It used to be that Laird Plastics
had rems. I don't use them anymore and so can't say. But Laird does
have retail outlets in several cities.
ERS

there is a nice outfit in Goodletsville Tennessee called Urethane
Specialties that will cast you whatever you need , very reasonable

let me know and i can provide contact info ,

i am not affiliated ina ny way , just a happy customer

Try this company Diversified Materials in a Mesa California 619 464 4111