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Old October 10th 06, 02:10 AM posted to rec.woodworking
DCH DCH is offline
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Default RAS blade wobble

Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

Thanks for any help...

DCH

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Old October 10th 06, 03:22 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble


"DCH" wrote in message
...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence,
it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and
what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....


First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab the
blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in any then
you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be able
to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft may be
bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=&CatID=1
and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to tune, several of them
could be causing the problem that you're seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred bucks
by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw but it beats
not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH



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Old October 10th 06, 03:36 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble

Just out of curiosity....(and you probably have already checked
this...)

do you have two collars on the blade? (1 to the left and 1 to the
right?) I'm referring to the metal discs that go between the blade and
the nut at the end....I ask because I also found an old RAS, and one of
those collars was missing, which made for quite a wobble. Never cut
with it like that, though...didn't have the guts... :-)


Also, go to www3.sears.com and check out the model number of your RAS,
and take a look at a parts diagram of it. Make sure that you have all
of the important parts.


Good luck,


Todd

DCH wrote:
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

Thanks for any help...

DCH


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Old October 10th 06, 03:37 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble


DCH wrote:
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, ...
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should


If the plane of the blade is not parallel to the line of motion, it'll
buck and
catch and cut a wide groove. Put a straight-edge across the blade
(guard
off and power unplugged, of course) and sight down onto the kerf. If
it's skew,
that's your problem. A single-LED flashlight can cast a useful shadow,
if you
don't like squinting and have an assistant on a ladder...

Loose bearings are also a possibility, but you can tell by just
wiggling the
blade.

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Old October 10th 06, 03:57 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble


"DCH" wrote in message
...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence,
it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and
what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

The first thing you want to do is to see if Emerson will buy it back for
$100. I am not sure where that is, but it will come up on a search.
If not, I wish you well, but don't have any advice to offer.




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Old October 10th 06, 05:08 AM posted to rec.woodworking
Roy Roy is offline
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Default RAS blade wobble

Several have made good runout and various wear check suggestions. Blade warped? Any buildups on
the blade/washers that might be causing it to mount slightly crooked? Blade mount washers flat?
DAMHIKT.


On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 01:10:28 GMT, DCH wrote:

Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

Thanks for any help...

DCH


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Old October 10th 06, 06:48 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble

DCH wrote:
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

Thanks for any help...

DCH


A smaller blade isn't going to make it wobble, but
that blade may be warped or it may warp during
cutting. So, try another blade before you do
anything.

It could be too much end play, check to see if the
blade or shaft can be moved left to right. If
it can, adding a brass washer may solve the
problem, but you will need to buy sheet brass
(check hobby stores for a package of several
sheets with different thickness) and make your own
washers. You want to get end play down to about
0.001 inch.
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Old October 10th 06, 09:33 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble


"DCH" wrote in message
...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence,
it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and
what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....

Thanks for any help...

DCH


Last spring I found the bearings on mine (late 70's) out of whack.....I
could not properly align the saw, each adjustment just made something else
off....I removed the motor and had a small electric motor shop repair it
(approx. $100). Most likely sometime before I had bent something by cutting
a oddball piece of wood(foolish mistake) of which had actually wrecked a
blade. The bearings on mine are epoxied in place, the shop didn't sound real
thrilled with the design but knew how to fix them well......I was told (but
didn't check) that my motor was no longer available for
replacement.......before assuming such a problem make sure the blade is true
and all saw wear/alignment adjustments have been made. Rod


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Old October 10th 06, 05:49 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Default RAS blade wobble

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 22:22:57 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:


"DCH" wrote in message
8...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago, for 40$
looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added a new fence,
it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it seems
to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw was made for a
9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought that might be an
issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has seen this before and
what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....


First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab the
blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in any then
you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be able
to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft may be
bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes/ProductDetail.asp?ProdID=3&nPrdImageID=&CatID=1
and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to tune, several of them
could be causing the problem that you're seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred bucks
by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw but it beats
not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH



ALL excellent suggestions and could be a tutorial!

I would like to begin the inspection with UNPLUG THE SAW, but I admit to being a
bit paranoid about stuff like that...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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Old October 11th 06, 11:25 PM posted to rec.woodworking
DCH DCH is offline
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Posts: 11
Default RAS blade wobble

mac davis wrote in
:

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 22:22:57 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:


"DCH" wrote in message
. 18...
Greetings all...

I found an older Craftsman (1960's) radial arm saw a few days ago,
for 40$ looked fine, cleaned up real nice, leveled the table, added
a new fence, it
runs fine until you cut with it, once the blade gets into the cut it
seems to wobble, making a kerf much wider than it should, the saw
was made for a 9" blade but the guy had a 8" blade on it...I thought
that might be an issue, but thought I would see if anyone else has
seen this before and what
the possible causes and/or cures that are out there....


First thing to check--are _all_ the adjustments locking tight? Grab
the blade guard and try to move it in all directions. If it moves in
any then you need to find out what's loose and tighten it.

Next, try to wobble the shaft up and down and in and out and see if it
moves--if it does then you may need new bearings, which you should be
able to order off the Sears site.

Check the blade runout--is it wobbling on the shaft? If so the shaft
may be bent or the flat surface on which the blade seats may be
deformed.

Next, get Jon Eakes' radial saw book
http://www.wired-2-shop.com/joneakes...l.asp?ProdID=3

&nPrdIm
ageID=&CatID=1 and do what it says (there are a lot of adjustments to
tune, several of them could be causing the problem that you're
seeing).

Also, see if it is covered by the recall
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/. If it is you can get a hundred
bucks by sending the motor back--not as good as having a working saw
but it beats not having anything.


Thanks for any help...

DCH



ALL excellent suggestions and could be a tutorial!

I would like to begin the inspection with UNPLUG THE SAW, but I admit
to being a bit paranoid about stuff like that...

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm


Greetings....

I lapped the washers( retainers, collars, not really sure of the name )
on the sides of the blade flat...the blade does not have any play I can
feel on the arbor, the arm seems to be as square as I can
measure....both to fence and the table...sooooo I will try a better
blade and see if that helps any, the saw only wobbles when its
cutting...it runs very smooth until the cutting begins...I think the saw
qualifies under the emerson recall, so at the very least I might make a
few bucks off the saw...thanks to all for the advise...

DCH


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