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#1
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
I have a Skil 12 V cordless drill purchased for about $50 (US) a few years ago. I guess it doesn't even have a part number, it just says Variable Speed 12 Volts. It has seven torque settings plus the drill setting. Besides foreword, stop, and reverse, there are no other functions. I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE MFORCE driver? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...t&tag=6337DWDE Is the Makita 14.4 volt 6935FDWDE cordless impact driver more or less powerful than that when not using the hammer function? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...&tag=6935FDWDE When they rate hammer tools, I think they include the instantaneous torque with every pulse, but I'm interested in the persistent twisting force. Thank you for any answers. |
#2
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"John Doe" wrote in message ... I have a Skil 12 V cordless drill purchased for about $50 (US) a few years ago. I guess it doesn't even have a part number, it just says Variable Speed 12 Volts. It has seven torque settings plus the drill setting. Besides foreword, stop, and reverse, there are no other functions. I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE MFORCE driver? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...t&tag=6337DWDE How much more powerful would be hard to say. Typically however better quality tools perform better than cheaper tools of equal voltage. I Own the 12 volt version of the Makita you are looking at and am pleased with it. Is the Makita 14.4 volt 6935FDWDE cordless impact driver more or less powerful than that when not using the hammer function? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...&tag=6935FDWDE I also have the 12 volt version of this impact driver. You do not have the option of not using this tool in a non impact setting. That said however it spins freely when there is no load. However once a load is encountered the hammering action immediately begins. IMHO this tool DOES NOT replace a clutched drill driver. It is much easier to break a screw if you are not careful with the trigger and do not stop driving then the screw stops going in. When they rate hammer tools, I think they include the instantaneous torque with every pulse, but I'm interested in the persistent twisting force. That may be a tough force to measure. If you hold a bit with your fingers and pull the trigger the driver immediately goes into hammer action to over come your slight grip. This tool works like the typical air impact wrench. It spins freely and quickly until any slight amount of resistance is met. |
#3
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Most of my experience is with the Makita 14.4. I have had one of the older
ones for probably 10 years (it was purchased during a Builder's Square going out of business sale). Everything except the batteries did well until a year or two ago when batteries started failing (not bad, actually). By that time the drill itself looked like an old, beat-up stock-car - pretty well used. Not wanting to invest heavily in a motor that might die I bought one aftermarket battery. My wife got me a new 14.4 set with drill motor and impact screwdriver for Christmas last year. The batteries are interchangeable but the old charger has a problem with new batteries. BTW - The impact driver is great. We built about 225 feet of fence and arbor this summer and the driver has driven more than 3,000 screws in a fairly short period. On the other hand, my brother-in-law keeps a couple of the 18v Skil's on the farm and they, too look like stock cars but work fine. They feel pretty much like my Makita but the motor/gear noise is a little different. Not bad, just different. RonB "John Doe" wrote in message ... I have a Skil 12 V cordless drill purchased for about $50 (US) a few years ago. I guess it doesn't even have a part number, it just says Variable Speed 12 Volts. It has seven torque settings plus the drill setting. Besides foreword, stop, and reverse, there are no other functions. I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE MFORCE driver? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...t&tag=6337DWDE Is the Makita 14.4 volt 6935FDWDE cordless impact driver more or less powerful than that when not using the hammer function? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...&tag=6935FDWDE When they rate hammer tools, I think they include the instantaneous torque with every pulse, but I'm interested in the persistent twisting force. Thank you for any answers. |
#4
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Leon" wrote:
I also have the 12 volt version of this impact driver. You do not have the option of not using this tool in a non impact setting. That said however it spins freely when there is no load. However once a load is encountered the hammering action immediately begins. Oh, okay. Is that how most/all work? Thanks for the warning. |
#5
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
John Doe wrote in news:a_XJg.23005$gY6.12354
@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com: "Leon" wrote: I also have the 12 volt version of this impact driver. You do not have the option of not using this tool in a non impact setting. That said however it spins freely when there is no load. However once a load is encountered the hammering action immediately begins. Oh, okay. Is that how most/all work? Thanks for the warning. That's how my Bosch impact driver works. Don't use cheap screws. This tool makes driving construction screws 3" long do-able. Well spent money. But Leon is right. The drill drivers are still used all of the time for everything else. I use DeWalt, if that means anything. Patriarch |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
John Doe spake thusly and wrote:
I have a Skil 12 V cordless drill purchased for about $50 (US) a few years ago. I guess it doesn't even have a part number, it just says Variable Speed 12 Volts. It has seven torque settings plus the drill setting. Besides foreword, stop, and reverse, there are no other functions. I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE MFORCE driver? Just a new battery can make a lot of difference. There has been a lot of forward progress in the arena of cordless tools over the last few years. I think I would shop for 18 or 19 volt unless you have some great deal set up. Steve -- www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs, office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte, CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more Check out http://www.guardian.name |
#7
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE
MFORCE driver? I can't speak to the comparative powers, other than recommending you look at Amazon or try to download the product manuals. IMO, what you're really getting when you upgrade from Skil to Makita (or any of the other "real" brands - Dewalt, Bosch, Porter Cable, etc...) is more metal parts instead of plastic, better quality batteries (that should last longer per charge and longer lifetime), better service, better chance of getting replacement parts in 10 years, better durability, better tolerances (less wiggling/slipping), etc. Of course there are always exceptions and you'll always find someone who has had bad experiences with any given brand, but overall, the "real" tools should last longer and work better than their "homeowner-grade" counterparts. Again, these are my opinions and experiences; take them for what they're worth. Good luck, Andy |
#8
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
John Doe wrote:
I have a Skil 12 V cordless drill purchased for about $50 (US) a few years ago. I guess it doesn't even have a part number, it just says Variable Speed 12 Volts. It has seven torque settings plus the drill setting. Besides foreword, stop, and reverse, there are no other functions. I'm wondering how much more powerful is a Makita 14.4 volt 6337DWDE MFORCE driver? http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=pr...t&tag=6337DWDE I have that Makita & I like it. Previous drill was a Skil "Top Gun" 12 volt model, about 10 years old, which served me well until the battery crapped out. I rebuilt the pack with much better cells & bought a $40 "high tech" charger for it. Then the damned charger crapped out after about 6 months & only a few uses & the a-hole I bought it from (http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp, avoid like the plague) refused to replace it or assist me in any way. Simply said "You buy new one". His exact words. I'd say the Makita is more powerful, but not massively. Besides torque though you also have charge life, how long the tool will run on a given charge. They test this in the mags by driving deck screws until the battery gives up, then compare how many were driven. I'd say the Makita wins this against my old Skil, original battery or the rebuild. Problem with these drills (once you get above the obvious junk) seems more the batteries than the drill itself. Seems a shame to have to toss a perfectly good tool because the battery dies or can't be fed. Dan |
#9
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
snip
Problem with these drills (once you get above the obvious junk) seems more the batteries than the drill itself. Seems a shame to have to toss a perfectly good tool because the battery dies or can't be fed. So where is the technology in these products? Batteries and chargers, for the most part. And that's where the money is for the business, as well. Ten years is a _long_ time for a high tech tool. How old is your computer? How much of the 'old one' was really dead when you replaced it last time? Patriarch |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Patriarch wrote:
snip Ten years is a _long_ time for a high tech tool. How old is your computer? How much of the 'old one' was really dead when you replaced it last time? So you should think "upgrade path". That's why I went with 18 V like Steve suggested. I need the power. If necessary, I can save up for an 18 V impact driver. Thanks to all of the replies. -- For what it's worth. I bought a drill/driver that uses nickel metal hydride (NiMH) batteries, partly because they hold more electricity and are less environmentally hostile than nickel cadmium (NiCad). |
#11
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Patriarch wrote:
snip Problem with these drills (once you get above the obvious junk) seems more the batteries than the drill itself. Seems a shame to have to toss a perfectly good tool because the battery dies or can't be fed. So where is the technology in these products? Batteries and chargers, for the most part. And that's where the money is for the business, as well. Ten years is a _long_ time for a high tech tool. How old is your computer? How much of the 'old one' was really dead when you replaced it last time? Patriarch Both the original & the replacement cells were nicad, only difference was capacity. I agree there have been technological changes in these cells, but to compare it to what has taken place with computers in the same period is way overblown. Dan |
#12
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Dan wrote in
: Patriarch wrote: snip Problem with these drills (once you get above the obvious junk) seems more the batteries than the drill itself. Seems a shame to have to toss a perfectly good tool because the battery dies or can't be fed. So where is the technology in these products? Batteries and chargers, for the most part. And that's where the money is for the business, as well. Ten years is a _long_ time for a high tech tool. How old is your computer? How much of the 'old one' was really dead when you replaced it last time? Patriarch Both the original & the replacement cells were nicad, only difference was capacity. I agree there have been technological changes in these cells, but to compare it to what has taken place with computers in the same period is way overblown. Dan But the thought got your attention, didn't it? Look more closely at what has happened with battery life, charge cycles, and importantly, weight requirements. You're on Usenet, so you are at least some level of computer geek. ;-) I bought 12v tools, because they work well for me, and were much less expensive for the same levels of build quality. Very seldom do the batteries need recharging before I do. And I do these things for the fun of it... Patriarch |
#13
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Patriarch wrote:
I bought 12v tools, because they work well for me, and were much less expensive for the same levels of build quality. Very seldom do the batteries need recharging before I do. And I do these things for the fun of it... Patriarch I'm still not sure price point for price point the drills of today offer that much functional superiority over those of a decade ago, not that I've done an A B comparison (if such a test exists, I'm sure someone here will point it out) but the nickel metal hydride cells at least remove a source of toxic cadmium from landfills. NiMH cells do have greater capacity size for size, I just think most makers use such crappy cells to start with to save $$$ (and reap $$$ selling replacement cells), it may not amount to much in actual use. Also they don't tend to use the best charging technology. The charger for my old Skil, as with most nicad units, relied on the temperature of the pack to determine a full charge, a crude method that's hard on the cells. I haven't taken the cover off my Makita charger, but I'd be surprised if it was all that much more sophisticated. We can agree on a preference for the lower voltages. One reason I like my new 14.4v Makita is it's small & (especially) relatively LIGHT! The heft of those 18 & 24 volt monsters 'bout breaks my arm, especially with my "painter's elbow" (same thing as tennis elbow, only I got it PAINTING! ;-/ ) Dan |
#14
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
You're not just waiting for the new 60 volt drills? They'll come complete
with backpack to carry the batteries. "Dan" wrote in message . .. The heft of those 18 & 24 volt monsters 'bout breaks my arm, especially with my "painter's elbow" (same thing as tennis elbow, only I got it PAINTING! ;-/ ) |
#15
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
CW wrote:
You're not just waiting for the new 60 volt drills? They'll come complete with backpack to carry the batteries. "Dan" wrote in message . .. The heft of those 18 & 24 volt monsters 'bout breaks my arm, especially with my "painter's elbow" (same thing as tennis elbow, only I got it PAINTING! ;-/ ) BACKPACK! Why that's absurd! All they have to do is have the batteries in a convenient CARRYING CASE, then run a nice CORD to the drill, that way you'd... Hey, wait a minute!!!! ;-) Dan |
#16
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
LOL!
"Dan" wrote in message ... BACKPACK! Why that's absurd! All they have to do is have the batteries in a convenient CARRYING CASE, then run a nice CORD to the drill, that way you'd... Hey, wait a minute!!!! ;-) Dan |
#17
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Dan wrote:
Patriarch wrote: I bought 12v tools, because they work well for me, and were much less expensive for the same levels of build quality. Very seldom do the batteries need recharging before I do. And I do these things for the fun of it... I'm still not sure price point for price point the drills of today offer that much functional superiority over those of a decade ago, not that I've done an A B comparison (if such a test exists, I'm sure someone here will point it out) but the nickel metal hydride cells at least remove a source of toxic cadmium from landfills. Apparently lithium-ion batteries are okay too. NiMH cells do have greater capacity size for size, I just think most makers use such crappy cells to start with to save $$$ (and reap $$$ selling replacement cells), Apparently that's the rule for lots of manufactured cordless devices. The only common retail NiMHs are 1.2 V AA batteries, the larger namebrand C and D NiMH cells are just padded AAs. Nickel metal hydrides aren't hazardous, they hold lots more electricity, and they don't have memory effects like NiCads. The AA NiMHs you can buy locally are still rapidly improving. Duracell just started selling 2650 milliamp hour AA rechargeable NiMHs, that's about double the capacity of when they first came on the market. Apparently lithium-ion batteries can be recharged twice as many times as NiCad or NiMH, and do not fade near the end of their charge. Also they don't tend to use the best charging technology. The charger for my old Skil, as with most nicad units, relied on the temperature of the pack to determine a full charge, a crude method that's hard on the cells. Hmm. I thought current and/or voltage monitoring was common. I haven't taken the cover off my Makita charger, but I'd be surprised if it was all that much more sophisticated. The lithium-ion chargers are more sophisticated, maybe because they can blow up if not handled with care. Have fun. Dan |
#18
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"John Doe" wrote in message m... Patriarch wrote: snip Ten years is a _long_ time for a high tech tool. How old is your computer? How much of the 'old one' was really dead when you replaced it last time? So you should think "upgrade path". That's why I went with 18 V like Steve suggested. I need the power. If necessary, I can save up for an 18 V impact driver. Thanks to all of the replies. Keep in mind that a 12 volt impact driver will beat the pants off of a 24 volt driver/drill when it comes to sinking screws. I finally went to 12 volt 2 years ago after using 9.6 volt since the early 90's. I prefer a drill that can be used all day long and not wear me out. |
#19
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Leon" wrote in message Keep in mind that a 12 volt impact driver will beat the pants off of a 24 volt driver/drill when it comes to sinking screws. I finally went to 12 volt 2 years ago after using 9.6 volt since the early 90's. I prefer a drill that can be used all day long and not wear me out. 12V is plenty for what most of us do. I have no use for the 18V and larger. Love my Panasonic 15.6V as it handles better than my old cheap 14.4V. Voltage roughly translates to power, but other factors come in play for a good tool. How smooth it is when you pull the trigger? Is the chuck easy to lock? Does it keep the speed constant? Does it feel good in your hands? |
#20
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Leon" wrote:
Keep in mind that a 12 volt impact driver will beat the pants off of a 24 volt driver/drill when it comes to sinking screws. I finally went to 12 volt 2 years ago after using 9.6 volt since the early 90's. I prefer a drill that can be used all day long and not wear me out. Yup, the 18 V MXT is heavy ($206 total from Tools Plus). But my secondary purpose is modular drive for a recreational device and I wanted as much torque as I could afford (hopefully 560 inch pounds is enough). Otherwise I would have grabbed that Makita "buy one get the other free" 14.4 V impact/driver offer (6935FDWDEX, $195 total from Amazon). I really like all of the features my old Skil doesn't have... gearing, easily replaceable brushes, single sleeve chuck, and a switch to lock out the clutch for drilling. That's a bunch of improvement, also available on other models. All I need is a quick change chuck attachment and arms like Arnold Schwarzenegger, and it will practically work itself. |
#21
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"John Doe" wrote in message m... "Leon" wrote: Keep in mind that a 12 volt impact driver will beat the pants off of a 24 volt driver/drill when it comes to sinking screws. I finally went to 12 volt 2 years ago after using 9.6 volt since the early 90's. I prefer a drill that can be used all day long and not wear me out. Yup, the 18 V MXT is heavy ($206 total from Tools Plus). But my secondary purpose is modular drive for a recreational device and I wanted as much torque as I could afford (hopefully 560 inch pounds is enough). Otherwise I would have grabbed that Makita "buy one get the other free" 14.4 V impact/driver offer (6935FDWDEX, $195 total from Amazon). 3 Just for comparison, the Makita 12 volt Impact driver delivers some where around 1,000 inch pounds of torque. |
#22
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Yup, the 18 V MXT is heavy... hopefully 560 inch pounds [of torque] is enough. Just for comparison, the Makita 12 volt Impact driver delivers some where around 1,000 inch pounds of torque. I think that's a minute burst measurement (good for driving screws), not pure rotational torque. |
#23
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
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#24
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
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#25
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"John Doe" wrote in message m... Yup, the 18 V MXT is heavy... hopefully 560 inch pounds [of torque] is enough. Just for comparison, the Makita 12 volt Impact driver delivers some where around 1,000 inch pounds of torque. I think that's a minute burst measurement (good for driving screws), not pure rotational torque. Several months ago I drove several 3/8" x 3" lag screws in to 2x4's with the impact driver and rather quickly. My corded drill did not have the guts. |
#26
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Funny how they give that figure in inch pounds. Bigger number. Sounds better
than 47 (rounded up in true salesman style) foot pounds. Relatively few people know what that means any way, just bigger is better. Reminds me of the Radio Shack twit that told me one phone was better than the other because it had more gigahertz. "Leon" wrote in message . com... "John Doe" wrote in message m... Yup, the 18 V MXT is heavy... hopefully 560 inch pounds [of torque] is enough. |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Peter Huebner wrote:
Sadly the NiMH also have a curve of diminishing returns. I have a 12V Panasonic that came with 2@4Ah NiMH batteries. Had it for maybe 4 years now. 1 battery no longer takes more than 5 mins worth of charge, the other still works but self- discharges within about a week. As far as I know, NiCad and NiMH both last about 1000 charges, eventually they all die. I started buying AA NiMH batteries many years ago, about one year after they came onto the market. I still have them all, about 18 (plus about 8 AAAs). They are many different capacities since the capacity keeps improving about 200 milliamp hours every six months. The only concern I'm familiar with is that multiple cell NiMH devices can conceivably be damaged if they appear to be discharged completely but some are still slightly charged. I guess that's a good reason to fully charge them before installation. I haven't noticed any degradation here. Beautiful machine otherwise; I like the very sleek older 9.6 I have even better. I had the battery pack for that one rebuilt with NiMH. Replaced the embedded AA NiCad with NiMH in my electric toothbrush... much better Apparently lithium-ion batteries can be recharged twice as many times as NiCad or NiMH, and do not fade near the end of their charge. Drawback with li-ion is the limited lifespan. After nnn days they die, That would be very bad news for millions of laptop computer users. die, never mind how you've used them. As far as I know, their lifespan is very roughly 2000 recharges. I am looking forward to this technology getting cheaper and more robust. I think lithium-ion batteries being safer is a major design problem also, like with the recent laptop recall. We now have walkie talkies with Li-ion batteries and I like them MUCH better than the ones I had before with NiMH. Lighter, more compact, and they're always in the charger - 24/7, when not in use. Model airplane enthusiasts like them (see rec.models.rc.air), but that's probably high-risk for fire/explosion. They are being used in some new cordless drills. -P. |
#28
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Leon" wrote:
Several months ago I drove several 3/8" x 3" lag screws in to 2x4's with the impact driver and rather quickly. My corded drill did not have the guts. For what it's worth. All of my reading on the subject is absolutely positively in agreement with your opinion. Apparently there is a great positive difference between an impact driver and an ordinary drill, for driving screws. Anybody who has any doubt about that should just do a little shopping for impact drivers and read the reviews. Have fun. |
#29
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"CW" wrote in message ink.net... Funny how they give that figure in inch pounds. Bigger number. Sounds better than 47 (rounded up in true salesman style) foot pounds. Relatively few people know what that means any way, just bigger is better. Reminds me of the Radio Shack twit that told me one phone was better than the other because it had more gigahertz. Yeah, really it is close to 85 foot pounds which sounds even better to me. As for the phone, we have a 3 phone set that is sold as a 5.8 gigahertz IIRC. 5.8 gigahertz in one direction, that is, 2.8 in the other. Seems kinda silly to make a phone that will transmit or receive farther than it will receive or transmit. ;~) Might as well call it a 2.8 gigahertz phone. |
#30
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Leon" wrote in message As for the phone, we have a 3 phone set that is sold as a 5.8 gigahertz IIRC. 5.8 gigahertz in one direction, that is, 2.8 in the other. Seems kinda silly to make a phone that will transmit or receive farther than it will receive or transmit. ;~) Might as well call it a 2.8 gigahertz phone. No, not silly at all. If your wife calls and wants a favor, you just walk away a bit and ignore the call. When she gets home and bitches at you, you can just say "sorry dear, I was just over 3 gigahertz away and could not hear you." |
#31
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Must be to early, Leon. I can't tell if you're serious or not. Hope not.
"Leon" wrote in message . .. Yeah, really it is close to 85 foot pounds which sounds even better to me. As for the phone, we have a 3 phone set that is sold as a 5.8 gigahertz IIRC. 5.8 gigahertz in one direction, that is, 2.8 in the other. Seems kinda silly to make a phone that will transmit or receive farther than it will receive or transmit. ;~) Might as well call it a 2.8 gigahertz phone. |
#32
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
John Doe wrote in
: Peter Huebner wrote: Sadly the NiMH also have a curve of diminishing returns. I have a 12V Panasonic that came with 2@4Ah NiMH batteries. Had it for maybe 4 years now. 1 battery no longer takes more than 5 mins worth of charge, the other still works but self- discharges within about a week. As far as I know, NiCad and NiMH both last about 1000 charges, eventually they all die. I started buying AA NiMH batteries many years ago, about one year after they came onto the market. I still have them all, about 18 (plus about 8 AAAs). They are many different capacities since the capacity keeps improving about 200 milliamp hours every six months. The only concern I'm familiar with is that multiple cell NiMH devices can conceivably be damaged if they appear to be discharged completely but some are still slightly charged. I guess that's a good reason to fully charge them before installation. I haven't noticed any degradation here. Beautiful machine otherwise; I like the very sleek older 9.6 I have even better. I had the battery pack for that one rebuilt with NiMH. Replaced the embedded AA NiCad with NiMH in my electric toothbrush... much better Apparently lithium-ion batteries can be recharged twice as many times as NiCad or NiMH, and do not fade near the end of their charge. Drawback with li-ion is the limited lifespan. After nnn days they die, That would be very bad news for millions of laptop computer users. die, never mind how you've used them. As far as I know, their lifespan is very roughly 2000 recharges. I am looking forward to this technology getting cheaper and more robust. I think lithium-ion batteries being safer is a major design problem also, like with the recent laptop recall. We now have walkie talkies with Li-ion batteries and I like them MUCH better than the ones I had before with NiMH. Lighter, more compact, and they're always in the charger - 24/7, when not in use. Model airplane enthusiasts like them (see rec.models.rc.air), but that's probably high-risk for fire/explosion. They are being used in some new cordless drills. -P. If you techies want to know how Lithium cells are controlled, check out this site. http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/...chem/lithion/i ndex.html Battery packs (Li-Ion) now have microchips in them for control of over current/voltage, in both the charge and discharge mode. Makes it hard to get your battery packs rebuilt, because each manuafacturer has it's own charcteristics for the cells, plus they can turn off (via the microchip, timed number of charge/discharge cycles) the control circuits when they think you've had enough use out of your battery pack. |
#33
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"CW" wrote in message ink.net... Must be to early, Leon. I can't tell if you're serious or not. Hope not. Serious. According to the AT&T phone features the higher Gig rating of 5.8 having a higher frequency than 2.8 travels better through and around obstacles therefore in turn tends to travel farther by comparison. They only have the higher frequency on the out going or in coming, I do not recall which is which. Apparently at times you are when farther from the base either you will not be able to hear the caller or he will not be able to hear you. Basically AT&T claims longer range through obstacles with the 5.8 over the 2.8. Either way this set of phones have always worked like they are hard wired regardless of where I have used them. Our earlier 900 megahertz AT&T phones with the longer antennas did not work as well, all things being equal. |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message m... "Leon" wrote in message As for the phone, we have a 3 phone set that is sold as a 5.8 gigahertz IIRC. 5.8 gigahertz in one direction, that is, 2.8 in the other. Seems kinda silly to make a phone that will transmit or receive farther than it will receive or transmit. ;~) Might as well call it a 2.8 gigahertz phone. No, not silly at all. If your wife calls and wants a favor, you just walk away a bit and ignore the call. When she gets home and bitches at you, you can just say "sorry dear, I was just over 3 gigahertz away and could not hear you." Yeah.... However it may be that it works the other way around. I do not know which reaches farther, the base or the phone. :~) |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
"CW" spake thusly and wrote:
Reminds me of the Radio Shack twit that told me one phone was better than the other because it had more gigahertz. Actually the higher gigahertz phones are of newer, most often better, design. The waiter could have stated it more eloquently if that is what was said. Steve -- www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs, office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte, CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more Check out http://www.guardian.name |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
Peter Huebner spake thusly and wrote:
Sadly the NiMH also have a curve of diminishing returns. I have a 12V Panasonic that came with 2@4Ah NiMH batteries. Had it for maybe 4 years now. 1 battery no longer takes more than 5 mins worth of charge All current batteries that I am aware of are considered "consumables" as it were and are expected to wear out, (though may well be covered by warranty in many cases.) Notice the little battery recycling kiosk thingie in many of the power tool stores? Steve -- www.sellcom.com for firewood splitters, ergonomic chairs, office phone systems, "non-mov" surge protection, Exabyte, CA, Minuteman, Brave Products, Fisch, TMC, Panasonic and more Check out http://www.guardian.name |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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cordless drills, power difference between cheap and half decent?
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