How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?

"mark" wrote in message
...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?


I pre stain the raised panels and inner edges of the rails and stiles near
the panel. Use an almost dripping wet paper towel to wipe the squeeze out
and wipe several times while turning the towel each time to avoid rewiping
the glue back on the piece. I have good results, even with red oak.

I use blue tape - works good for me.

"mark" wrote in message
...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?

"mark" wrote in message
...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?

Yes. Pre-finish the panels. I agree with M.Paul as far as the tape goes.
Its a pain but in areas that are hard to reach to scrape or pare the glue
away, it works great.
I try to avoid using a wet rag/towel but sometimes its unavoidable. Most of
the time, I just wait until the glue sets up then pare it away with a sharp
chisel or just use a scraper.

Dave



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Mark,
I have found a number of ways to deal with squeeze out. Frequently I
put on blue masking tape along the joint if possible. I also use Lee
Valley's glue which has a much higher content of solids and less water.
It drips much much less. A recently technique is using a plastic fine
tooth adhesive spreading tool like for tiling or other and dragging it
over any area more than about 1/2 inch wide and this creates grooves of
less glue alternating with more glue and there is much much less
squeeze out. The driippiness that so many woodworkers seem proud of
with titebond had made me use it less (but it is cheap and works
well)until if found the adhesive groover tool (really cheap relief -
use it over and over) . You only need enough squeeze out to see the
joint gap is filled. I also use less glue if my boards align better.
I am getting better and better joints _ at least edge joints with less
and less glue.
Hope that helps.
Oh, the lee valley glue is so dense it does not really sink in to the
wood and is cleaned up when it becomes rubbery or later and seems to
tear out wood very little. Also, has a nice color when dried. It is
cheap except for the shipping.
I also prefinish a lot.

Mike the progressively less incompetent woodworker

"mark" wrote...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?


Lot of good tips here already, IMO. Best bet is to pick the technique that
fits best for you, and stick with it till it becomes second nature.

Usually, I use titebond & pare off the minimal squeeze out after it has
dried. I'm used to doing it this way and find it easy enough.

Last set of 4 doors I did I had this "great idea". I glued up 8 "L"s
consisting of one stile and one rail each with hot hide glue, being careful
they were square. Then went back to the first "L", popped a panel in, glued
on the second "L", and voila, a square door! Rather, a rectangular door with
square corners. 8^) The hot hide glue squeezage was easier to pare off
than the titebond, and squaring the doors was easier, too. Much faster than
trying to glue, keep clean, and square all four corners at once.

--
Timothy Juvenal
www.rude-tone.com/work.htm

"mark" wrote in message
...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?

I have made many doors /panels and just clean up with a damp rag and make
sure all xcess glue is removed .After it is perfectly dry I final sand and
stain the doors .Never had a problem with this procedure .Glue , I use
tightbond

To minimize squeeze out I "paint" the glue on both side of the joint. I
get very little squeeze out.

"mike hide" wrote in message
news

"mark" wrote in message
...
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I
find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am
making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it
is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?

I have made many doors /panels and just clean up with a damp rag and
make
sure all xcess glue is removed .After it is perfectly dry I final sand
and
stain the doors .Never had a problem with this procedure .Glue , I use
tightbond




----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----

In article ,
mark wrote:
How do you deal with glue squeeze out. If i wipe with a damp sponge I find
that area does not take stain as dark as the rest of the wood. I am making
raised panel doors and if I let the glue dry around the cope joints it is
impossible to remove. Should I stain before glue up?



IMHO there is no single answer, e.g. using a sharp chisel to scrape of
partially hardened glue may not be possible due to access & angle of
attack constraints. However, using a "damp" sponge or rag will surely
not work. If you are going to remove the squeeze out with a rag or
sponge, it has to be WET, almost soaking WET, and you have to SCRUB at
the glue, or wou will have the staining problems you describe.

Staining before glue up works well but do not allow any stain to get
on the mating surfaces of the glue joint.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

wrote in message
...
In article ,
mark wrote:


However, using a "damp" sponge or rag will surely
not work. If you are going to remove the squeeze out with a rag or
sponge, it has to be WET, almost soaking WET, and you have to SCRUB at
the glue, or wou will have the staining problems you describe.




Not so or I have been very lucky for the last 28 years. I use a wet rag 95%
of the time, even with red oak, and have no problems at all.

In article ,
Leon wrote:

wrote in message
...
In article ,
mark wrote:


However, using a "damp" sponge or rag will surely
not work. If you are going to remove the squeeze out with a rag or
sponge, it has to be WET, almost soaking WET, and you have to SCRUB at
the glue, or wou will have the staining problems you describe.




Not so or I have been very lucky for the last 28 years. I use a wet rag 95%
of the time, even with red oak, and have no problems at all.



I think we agree here... i.e. you cant just take a damp rag and wipe
it over the glue. It has to be a WET rag, wet enough to get all the
glue off of the surface.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

wrote in message
...




I think we agree here... i.e. you cant just take a damp rag and wipe
it over the glue. It has to be a WET rag, wet enough to get all the
glue off of the surface.


Actually, Yes we do agree. I got the wrong impression the first time I read
your response.

In article ,
says...

wrote in message
...


I think we agree here... i.e. you cant just take a damp rag and wipe
it over the glue. It has to be a WET rag, wet enough to get all the
glue off of the surface.

Actually, Yes we do agree. I got the wrong impression the first time I read
your response.


I've found the wet rag approach to work much better than anything else
I've tried. However, I almost invariably find I failed to get all the
glue from some part (usually small) of the surface.

Does anyone have a way to test that ALL the glue has been removed before
it sets up enough to hamper stain absorption?

Thanks,
Tex

"Tex" wrote in message
et...
In article ,
says...


I've found the wet rag approach to work much better than anything else
I've tried. However, I almost invariably find I failed to get all the
glue from some part (usually small) of the surface.

Does anyone have a way to test that ALL the glue has been removed before
it sets up enough to hamper stain absorption?

Thanks,
Tex

Pay closer attention. ;~)
Actually IIRC Titebond makes a glue that will glow under a black light. If
you miss spots during clean up the black light will make those spots stick
out like a sore thumb.

wrote in message
...

Not so or I have been very lucky for the last 28 years. I use a wet rag
95%
of the time, even with red oak, and have no problems at all.



I think we agree here... i.e. you cant just take a damp rag and wipe
it over the glue. It has to be a WET rag, wet enough to get all the
glue off of the surface.

Once again, dilution the solution to pollution.

I scrape the leathery squeeze after 20 minutes, personally. Not vigorously,
lest I pick up and dig out some wet wood.

"Tex" wrote in message
et...
I've found the wet rag approach to work much better than anything else
I've tried. However, I almost invariably find I failed to get all the
glue from some part (usually small) of the surface.

Does anyone have a way to test that ALL the glue has been removed before
it sets up enough to hamper stain absorption?

Sure, do what woodworkers have done for ages. Wipe with some mineral
spirits - something which is not water-soluble - and the remainder will
reveal itself.

In article , George@least says...

"Tex" wrote in message
et...
I've found the wet rag approach to work much better than anything else
I've tried. However, I almost invariably find I failed to get all the
glue from some part (usually small) of the surface.

Does anyone have a way to test that ALL the glue has been removed before
it sets up enough to hamper stain absorption?

Sure, do what woodworkers have done for ages. Wipe with some mineral
spirits - something which is not water-soluble - and the remainder will
reveal itself.



Thanks. I've been building and staining for years and fighting/dreading
the occasional leftover glue splotch. I never ran across using mineral
spirits as a tattle tale before -- my sheltered life, I guess. :-)

Will the mineral spirits affect staining later? If any glue shows up,
can I go back to water and get if off?

"Tex" wrote in message
. com...

Sure, do what woodworkers have done for ages. Wipe with some mineral
spirits - something which is not water-soluble - and the remainder will
reveal itself.


Will the mineral spirits affect staining later? If any glue shows up,
can I go back to water and get if off?

Won't affect stains, because you'll let them evaporate before staining.
Oil stains might even contain some.

I'm sure you don't want to go back to water. It's scrape and sand after the
stuff has dried. Be sure and scrape easy and sand one grit back from final
or you'll have a burnished area where the stain won't absorb like the
non-burnished.

In article , George@least says...

"Tex" wrote in message
. com...

Sure, do what woodworkers have done for ages. Wipe with some mineral
spirits - something which is not water-soluble - and the remainder will
reveal itself.


Will the mineral spirits affect staining later? If any glue shows up,
can I go back to water and get if off?

Won't affect stains, because you'll let them evaporate before staining.
Oil stains might even contain some.

I'm sure you don't want to go back to water. It's scrape and sand after the
stuff has dried. Be sure and scrape easy and sand one grit back from final
or you'll have a burnished area where the stain won't absorb like the
non-burnished.



Thanks. I've give it a try on next project.