Folks, I haven't turned on my band saw in over 10 years, but recently
am re-organizing my shop and wanted to get your advice regarding the
band saw. I have an "Ohio Forge" (the taiwanese/chinese brand that
home depot sold ~15 years ago) band saw with the riser insert. It has
been sadly neglected, as my shop has been so disorganized that I
couldn't even get to it, but I hope to put some lockable casters on it
and fix it up. The last blade that I had on it was ~3/4" and I used it
for sawing lumber.
Does anyone have a suggestion regarding an average all-around blade
that I should purchase for this band saw? I'm thinking that perhaps a
1/4" or 3"8" blade would work for most of the tasks that a band saw
does. Also, I'm not really sure about the length of the blade. I
believe the label on the saw says something ~ 92", but that was without
the riser block.
Does anyone know the length that I should purchase, perhaps 106"?
This weekend I hope to blow the sawdust out, clean it off, use some
steelwool and was on the table, and fire it up. Any thoughts on what
else can be done to tune up this old saw?

Thanks again for your advice on getting this saw back in commission,
Richard

The Bandsaw Book by Lonnie Bird or Mastering Your Bandsaw by Mark
Duginski. Both excellent and complete sources of information for
bandsaw operation and tuning.

"Richard" writes:

Any thoughts on what
else can be done to tune up this old saw?

I've got dozens. But the first thing you should do is call Iturra
Designs and their their free (and incredible) catalog on bandsaw upgrades

1-888-722-7078

Off the top of my head
shims for table
shims for coplanar wheels
wheel brush
zero clearance inserts (2 for $5)
guides/bearings
Tension release aids
fences
circular jigs
Every time I look at the catalog, I see something else that I HAVE to add.
It's very addicting.

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Thanks, guys. I have already called Iturra, and am waiting for their
catalog. In the mean time, do you have any suggestions on tune up, or
what a good all-purpose blade might be suggested? thanks again, Richard

On 26 Jan 2006 04:46:06 -0800, "Richard" wrote:

Folks, I haven't turned on my band saw in over 10 years, but recently
am re-organizing my shop and wanted to get your advice regarding the
band saw. I have an "Ohio Forge" (the taiwanese/chinese brand that
home depot sold ~15 years ago) band saw with the riser insert. It has
been sadly neglected, as my shop has been so disorganized that I
couldn't even get to it, but I hope to put some lockable casters on it
and fix it up. The last blade that I had on it was ~3/4" and I used it
for sawing lumber.
Does anyone have a suggestion regarding an average all-around blade
that I should purchase for this band saw? I'm thinking that perhaps a
1/4" or 3"8" blade would work for most of the tasks that a band saw
does. Also, I'm not really sure about the length of the blade. I
believe the label on the saw says something ~ 92", but that was without
the riser block.
Does anyone know the length that I should purchase, perhaps 106"?
This weekend I hope to blow the sawdust out, clean it off, use some
steelwool and was on the table, and fire it up. Any thoughts on what
else can be done to tune up this old saw?

Thanks again for your advice on getting this saw back in commission,
Richard

if it's a 14" BS, the riser kit should change the blade size from 92" to 105"...

Get a couple of different blades, but a 3/8" with about 8 or 10 teeth per inch
is a good general use blade.. YMWV
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Richard wrote:

Does anyone have a suggestion regarding an average all-around blade
that I should purchase for this band saw? I'm thinking that perhaps a
1/4" or 3"8" blade would work for most of the tasks that a band saw
does.

My favorite all around band saw blade is a 3/8" 6 TPI. I keep a few
others around, but rarely mount them.

I've had great results with plain old $11 Olsen blades, Cool Blocks,
and Duginske's book.

My only real "upgrade" is a link belt. I don't consider the Cool Blocks
optional. Someone bought me a Kreg fence as a thank-you, which is
really nice, but my jointed piece of hardwood clamped to the table
functioned as well.

Barry

do you have any suggestions on tune up, or what a good all-purpose blade might be suggested?

I'd recommend a 3/8", 4-6TPI. What I'd recommend even more, though, is
ordering one of the books mentioned above and then calling Timberwolf
(suffolkmachinery.com, (800)-234-7297) and talking to one of their
helpful operators about what kind of blade they recommend, and then
ordering that from them. You'll need to know the length of your old
blade, though - if the saw says 92", and it's a 6" riser block, it
should be 104" for the blade. One of the things you'll read in your
new bandsaw book is that a 3/4" blade is probably too thick for a 14"
bandsaw - I've seen it done, but the book will probably recommend 1/2"
max for most use. Also, if the saw has been sitting for 15 years with
tension on the blade, you'll probably need new springs, new tires, and
some work to make the wheels co-planar. But get a book and read all
about it for yourself.
Good luck and have fun with your "new" bandsaw,
Andy

Well folks, I pulled out the old band saw tonight and blew it out. I
have just a few issues, and I thought I'd mention them here in the
event that you all have some suggestions. By the way, I haven't had the
blade under tension. I released the tension right after I stopped
using it, so I do hope that my spring is still good.

I have a thin line of wood resin in the middle of the tires. More on
the lower tire, but some on the upper tire as well. Does anyone have
any suggestion of a wood pitch solvent that wouldn't hurt the tires?
The tires do look pretty good, although I did see some what looks like
crazing, but the rubber is solid. I don't want to clean them off with
anything that will hurt the rubber. While we're at it, does anyone
have a suggestion of what I might treat the rubber with to make it more
pliable?

The upper and lower bearings (behind the blade, on which the blade
pushes) look like they have some resin, and I did oil them a little,
but the bottom bearing feels pretty rough. Any source for bearing
replacements? or perhaps I could take them off and let them soak in
something which might loosen them up a bit.

I fired it up (after having removed the blade) and the motor spun right
up and the lower wheel turned nicely.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

On 26 Jan 2006 20:00:08 -0800, "Richard" wrote:

Well folks, I pulled out the old band saw tonight and blew it out. I
have just a few issues, and I thought I'd mention them here in the
event that you all have some suggestions. By the way, I haven't had the
blade under tension. I released the tension right after I stopped
using it, so I do hope that my spring is still good.

I have a thin line of wood resin in the middle of the tires. More on
the lower tire, but some on the upper tire as well. Does anyone have
any suggestion of a wood pitch solvent that wouldn't hurt the tires?
The tires do look pretty good, although I did see some what looks like
crazing, but the rubber is solid. I don't want to clean them off with
anything that will hurt the rubber. While we're at it, does anyone
have a suggestion of what I might treat the rubber with to make it more
pliable?

The upper and lower bearings (behind the blade, on which the blade
pushes) look like they have some resin, and I did oil them a little,
but the bottom bearing feels pretty rough. Any source for bearing
replacements? or perhaps I could take them off and let them soak in
something which might loosen them up a bit.

I fired it up (after having removed the blade) and the motor spun right
up and the lower wheel turned nicely.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

I clean my tires with warm water and a tooth brush... once in a while, pine sap
builds up and I use a little "Awesome" general cleaner to break it down and them
use warm water on a rag...
I don't know if it really helps the performance, but I clean the tires whenever
I change a blade... just seems wrong, somehow, putting a nice clean blade on
dirty tires.. *g*

Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Richard wrote:
Well folks, I pulled out the old band saw tonight and blew it out. I
have just a few issues, and I thought I'd mention them here in the
event that you all have some suggestions. By the way, I haven't had the
blade under tension. I released the tension right after I stopped
using it, so I do hope that my spring is still good.


ohio forgery was a pretty low end brand, so the spring may not have
been much to start with. if you find that you have trouble with flutter
or keeping a blade tracking even with a fresh tune up on the saw, the
spring may be too soft.




I have a thin line of wood resin in the middle of the tires. More on
the lower tire, but some on the upper tire as well. Does anyone have
any suggestion of a wood pitch solvent that wouldn't hurt the tires?

simple green or citrasolv. if the rubber is already degraded it's
probably just a matter of time till they come apart on you anyway. if
there isn't a lot of pitch I'd leave well enough alone.


The tires do look pretty good, although I did see some what looks like
crazing, but the rubber is solid. I don't want to clean them off with
anything that will hurt the rubber. While we're at it, does anyone
have a suggestion of what I might treat the rubber with to make it more
pliable?


sounds like they are showing their age. I'd run them until they start
throwing chunks and/or running loose, then I'd replace them with
neoprene ones. don't put armorall on them.




The upper and lower bearings (behind the blade, on which the blade
pushes) look like they have some resin, and I did oil them a little,
but the bottom bearing feels pretty rough. Any source for bearing
replacements?


look in the yellow pages for a belt and bearing supplier near you. take
the bearing in and show it to the guy at the counter.


or perhaps I could take them off and let them soak in
something which might loosen them up a bit.


first soak them in a cleaning solvent like mineral spirits. then soak
them in oil. do not run them under load or at high speed without
lubricant.



I fired it up (after having removed the blade) and the motor spun right
up and the lower wheel turned nicely.

sounds like you are on your way to a running band saw.





Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Go to library and get FWW
Mar/Apr 04 - blade test
Nov/Dec 05 - tips

by Michael Fortune

I have the Lonnie Bird book, and I read much of the Duginski book.
Both are fine, but I got a lot more out of the Nov/Dec 05 3-4 page
article. Michael was at the Denver WWW show -- very no nonsense,
practical kinda guy.

Barry, do you know off hand the part number for the Olsen blade? I
downloaded an Olsen catalog, and they have a bunch of different blade
materials, widths, sizes, etc. Thanks in advance!

Well, folks, I scrounged around the garage and found a 1/5" blade that
I had folded up ~ 15 years ago, and after cleaning the tires with soap,
water, and a stainless steel brush, proceeded to place the blade on the
tires.
I have a question, regarding tracking. When I have the blade centered
in the top wheel, it rides ~1/4-3/8" frp, the front edge of the bottom
wheel. Is that acceptable, or should I remove the bottom wheel and put
some sort of washer or shim before I put the bottom wheel back on?
I soaked my upper and lower bearings in mineral spirits last night, and
tonight have them soaking in slick 50. One of the bearings turned out
very nicely, and the other one spins freely, but not quite as freely as
the other bearing.

Thanks so much in advance for your help, suggestions and advice, Richard

Richard wrote:
Barry, do you know off hand the part number for the Olsen blade?

Which one? I have a few.

Barry

I am now certain that I will need to shim out the upper bandsaw wheel,
as I did put that 1/4" blade on this morning and gave it a whirl. The
blade is running ~1/4-3/8" from the front of the wheel, on both upper
and lower wheels, and rubs agains the front wheel guard if I have the
front wheel guard tightened all the way. That is with the tracking
adjustment screwed all the way in.
Can I just take off the top wheel and place a washer or two behind it?

Thanks in advance, Richard

"Richard" writes:

I am now certain that I will need to shim out the upper bandsaw wheel,
as I did put that 1/4" blade on this morning and gave it a whirl. The
blade is running ~1/4-3/8" from the front of the wheel, on both upper
and lower wheels, and rubs agains the front wheel guard if I have the
front wheel guard tightened all the way. That is with the tracking
adjustment screwed all the way in.
Can I just take off the top wheel and place a washer or two behind it?

Call up Iturra Designs (1-888-722-7078) and ask for their free
catalog. You can order the shims for the wheels while you are at it.
Or you can wait until you get the catalog, and buy the other dozen
items you also need, and save some shipping costs.
example:
Wheel Brush
table shims
Zero Clearance Inserts
cool blocks
T-9 Boeingshield
Lube Stick
Bearings
Spring


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thats shat I did on my delta.....
used a coupla fender washers. As I recall, I may have had to thin on edown
on the belt sander to get it right....

-_JD

"Richard" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am now certain that I will need to shim out the upper bandsaw wheel,
as I did put that 1/4" blade on this morning and gave it a whirl. The
blade is running ~1/4-3/8" from the front of the wheel, on both upper
and lower wheels, and rubs agains the front wheel guard if I have the
front wheel guard tightened all the way. That is with the tracking
adjustment screwed all the way in.
Can I just take off the top wheel and place a washer or two behind it?

Thanks in advance, Richard