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#1
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called
for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert |
#2
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian Elfert wrote:
Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? They would be from this guy's POV. I work under 7' ceilings. G Remember, you're probably going to have lights, DC tubes, etc... hanging, so the extra space would be worth it for the net height. I've found areas with higher ceilings easier to light, as the light can spread out more before it reaches bench and tool tops. You may need fewer lights with 10' vs. 9' ceilings. You could always add some sort of ceiling fan(s) to help with heating and cooling. 10' ceilings... drool... |
#3
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
B a r r y writes:
Brian Elfert wrote: Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? They would be from this guy's POV. I work under 7' ceilings. G Remember, you're probably going to have lights, DC tubes, etc... hanging, so the extra space would be worth it for the net height. I forgot about DC piping. That was going to run up high in my vaulted ceiling. I should plan on 10' walls and can go back to 9' later if things change. Brian Elfert |
#4
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian Elfert wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert I've got almost 9' ceilings and find them too low. Dave |
#5
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
In article ,
Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert 9' ceiling is sometimes too low for flipping big countertops. go for 10'. It will be a little easier to light, and if insulated properly, some recirc fans will make sure the heating bill won't increase. A standard sheet of MDF measures 108 11/16" on the diagonal. You can't manipulate, freely, one of those in a 9' height. Building tables and chairs won't give you any grief...unless you want to store those 12' cherry boards vertically..G Make it 10 feet, Brian..... |
#6
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:59:58 -0000, Brian Elfert
wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. If you're framing, twobys come 8', 10' 12'.... You're gonna have to buy 10 footers anyway aren't you? |
#7
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Wes Stewart wrote:
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:59:58 -0000, Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. If you're framing, twobys come 8', 10' 12'.... You're gonna have to buy 10 footers anyway aren't you? You can also get sheetrock in other than 4x8 sizes to match...If I were going from scratch, I'd go the 10'. |
#8
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
It is going to depend on what the majority of your work is.
I make little music boxes so I could manage with a 7' ceiling. If you are handling large cabinets, long countertops the extra height will give you clearance on overhead lights, heating ductowrk etc. In my area the choice would be 8' or 10' for wall stud construction since those are the standard lengths available. Ceiling fans or a recirculating duct and fan will help your heating costs. |
#9
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
I would do 10' with 2x6's as studs. The "extra" cost will not
even be noticed and that extra room in the wall can be super insulated. Super strong and roomy. I have 12' ceiling and that is excellent. I truly regret not using 2x6's when I had the chance. Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert |
#10
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Wes Stewart writes:
If you're framing, twobys come 8', 10' 12'.... You're gonna have to buy 10 footers anyway aren't you? They make 104 5/8" precut studs in both 2x4s and 2x6s. 9' walls would be easier than 10' unless I don't cut the 10 footers and go to 10 1/2' or so. Brian Elfert |
#11
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
I built my shop with 10' celings with 2x6 studs on recommendation of a
neighbor. I don't regret it for a moment. I can flip 4x8 sheet goods end-for-end without hitting the lights (or DC system once I put one in) which I could not do with 8' or 9' ceilings. It's as cheap to do 10' as 9' and, with insulated 2x6 walls, you won't notice the difference in heating or cooling. "Brian Elfert" wrote in message ... I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert |
#12
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
I went from a shop w. 8' ceilings to one with 14' ceilings. It took me
..000008 seconds to get used to is. Go for the 10'. You won't regret it. Bill |
#13
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Pat Barber writes:
I would do 10' with 2x6's as studs. The "extra" cost will not even be noticed and that extra room in the wall can be super insulated. Super strong and roomy. I have 12' ceiling and that is excellent. I truly regret not using 2x6's when I had the chance. I'm already ahead of you on the 2x6 studs. Energy costs aren't going down any time soon. I am most likely going to go with 10' walls even though the expense is not insignificant. 10% more interior/exterior sheathing, siding, and studs are required which is at least $1000 additional. $1000 doesn't sound like much, but my budget for this building is tight. Brian Elfert |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert I finished my shop a few years ago, with 9' ceilings (actually, closer to 8' 10"), and I regret it. Stick the 10' measurement in, slop an extra 4" of ceiling insulation in to reduce heating costs, and go. The ONLY problem 10' ceilings create is changing light bulbs: you need a ladder instead of a chair. |
#15
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
You won't spend that much more to go 10'. 2x4's are relatively
inexpensive and so is drywall. Your foundation and roof won't change at all. I know it's more insulation and wiring etc. but how many times are you going to get to build a shop from scratch. Pick up a full piece of 4x8 plywood to move around and see how high off the ground you lift it then figure how high the top of the piece went. With lights and storage overhead you'll end up thinking about 12' ceilings. I think drywall can be special ordered in 5' wide pieces (difficult for one guy to handle) but if you use regular 4x8 sheets you'll split one to finish you your walls or if you go to 12' you won't have to cut them at all. Whatever you do I'll be jealous. I've got a 2 car garage that I try to park one car regularly and everything is on wheels. I am happy to have it but it would be nice to have permanent spots to park the equipment on. Robert Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert |
#16
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
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#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
"Brian Elfert" wrote in message ... I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert I doubt anyone would recommend 9 over 10. Build it as high as you can afford. You won't regret it. Dave Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#18
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian,
I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? When we built our garage, I made a 2' high concrete perimeter foundation. Then I built standard 8' high walls on top of that. Once the slab was poured and the ceiling sheetrocked, I ended up with just over 9-1/2 feet of ceiling height. This has worked out to a very comfortable height for me. I can stand plywood sheets on end, and carry them around easily. I can rotate the plywood sheet end for end and not hit the ceiling. I can stand 8' boards upright against the wall (I have to set 10' boards at an angle, or lay them flat). And, I can easily maneuver 7 foot high cabinets (pantry, armoires, etc.). I used low profile T8 Fluorescent lights on the ceiling, electronic ballast, instant on, no flicker, good in cold weather. They only stick down about 4 inches from the ceiling. I used garage door tracks that sit a little closer to the ceiling, but they still stick down about 1-1/2 feet from the ceiling. I've banged them with a board once or twice, but since they only stick out 9' into my 28' garage, they're not usually a problem. I used 2x6 studs with R19 insulation, and a 4000 watt Cadet "Hot One" electric heater will just keep it warm in there when I need heat. It's a little undersized for the space (I should have about 6500 watts for my 650 sq/ft), but I don't need the heat very often, and 67-68 degrees feels really warm when I'm busy working. Anthony |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 17:59:58 -0000, Brian Elfert wrote:
I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert Ok, I've got ceiling envy now... *g* If it's affordable, I'd go 10'..... If you work with sheet goods, picture flipping over a sheet of plywood and catching a corner on a light fixture... My work area is divided in 2 areas, one with 7' ceiling and the other with 9' or so at the peak.. I find myself stepping outside the garage door to handle 8' tow-bys and sheet goods... mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#20
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 23:23:36 -0000, Brian Elfert wrote:
Pat Barber writes: I would do 10' with 2x6's as studs. The "extra" cost will not even be noticed and that extra room in the wall can be super insulated. Super strong and roomy. I have 12' ceiling and that is excellent. I truly regret not using 2x6's when I had the chance. I'm already ahead of you on the 2x6 studs. Energy costs aren't going down any time soon. I am most likely going to go with 10' walls even though the expense is not insignificant. 10% more interior/exterior sheathing, siding, and studs are required which is at least $1000 additional. $1000 doesn't sound like much, but my budget for this building is tight. Brian Elfert Brian.. I know that you don't need help rationalizing, but use the same method that we use to justify tools... $1,000 over the life of the shop, minus the cost of light fixtures and stuff that you won't be breaking.. *lol* mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
"Brian Elfert" wrote in message
... B a r r y writes: Brian Elfert wrote: Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? They would be from this guy's POV. I work under 7' ceilings. G Remember, you're probably going to have lights, DC tubes, etc... hanging, so the extra space would be worth it for the net height. I forgot about DC piping. That was going to run up high in my vaulted ceiling. I should plan on 10' walls and can go back to 9' later if things change. Brian Elfert Regarding DC plumbing, consider building a raised wood floor and run DC piping under that. I've seen that on a couple of websites and it looks like a very cool idea. What you lose by having a higher floor, you'd gain back by more clearance above, and you can run pipes under the floor to machines in the middle of the room without them being in the way as they would if dropped from the ceiling. DC and electrical could go under the floor. Plus, that wood floor is going to have more give and be more comfortable over long shop sessions. Of course, I speak from no experience with this (working in my 7' ceiling, concrete floor basement), but if I was building a shop from scratch, I'd probably want to work this idea in. Good luck. And don't forget to leave bench space for cleaning skate bearings! |
#22
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
mac davis writes:
Brian.. I know that you don't need help rationalizing, but use the same method that we use to justify tools... $1,000 over the life of the shop, minus the cost of light fixtures and stuff that you won't be breaking.. *lol* Someone suggested doing concrete block for the first 2 feet with an 8 foot wall on top and I'm going to look into that. It may be less expensive than extending a stick built wall to 10'. I guess it will be better to spend $1000 now than regret it for 20 or 30 years. Brian Elfert |
#23
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Keith Carlson wrote:
DC and electrical could go under the floor. Plus, that wood floor is going to have more give and be more comfortable over long shop sessions. You could always simply build it over a basement, if basements work in your locale. The heating & cooling mechanicals, DC & pipes, compressor, wiring, etc... would be simple to install or change. All lesser-used stuff could easily be stored below. |
#24
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
B a r r y writes:
Keith Carlson wrote: DC and electrical could go under the floor. Plus, that wood floor is going to have more give and be more comfortable over long shop sessions. You could always simply build it over a basement, if basements work in your locale. My original plan had a basement. I realized a basement would add way too much to the cost. The basement could be up to $20k or more. My entire budget for this project is $30 to $35k. Brian Elfert |
#25
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
"Keith Carlson" writes:
piping under that. I've seen that on a couple of websites and it looks like a very cool idea. What you lose by having a higher floor, you'd gain back by more clearance above, and you can run pipes under the floor to machines in the middle of the room without them being in the way as they would if dropped from the ceiling. My original plan actually called for a full 10" wood floor over the concrete. I needed to reduce the cost so I dropped back to plywood over treated 2x4 sleepers. I doubt I would regret not having the full floor in the long run. Brian Elfert |
#26
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
I have 10' ceilings in my garage.... errr, shop. I love it. I know
I'd be whacking the ceiling a ton if they were 9'. As well, if I were building a dedicated shop I would do the framed floor as someone else here suggested. Run all your DC and wiring below the floor. There are so many advantages to this: 1. Unbelievably easier on your joints and back. My floor is concrete and it's a killer. I have 25 of those 3'x3' rubber mats and my back still gets very sore. 2. Your shop will be much cleaner looking and you won't have pipes to bang material into. I know about this! 3. Your DC system will work much better. The piping won't have to run from the floor to the ceiling and back down again. This is a big deal in the DC world. If you're set on a concrete floor with no subfloor then plumb your DC and wiring right into the concrete. I've seen this done and it's fantastic. You just don't get the benefit of the wood floor being easier on your body. The only catch is you need to plan your shop and tool placements very well. It will be a lot tougher to move your TS to the other side of the shop afterwards. Neil |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert Have you consider ICF instead of stick built? I went that route, and 16' sidewalls. W/ a 16 sidewall you can put in a lofted area and add a lot to your useable square footage. Just a consideration. Given your suggested budget, this is a possibility. I built mine in the neighborhood of your budget. But this will vary based on location and other variables. JW |
#28
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
jw wrote: Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert Have you consider ICF instead of stick built? I went that route, and 16' sidewalls. W/ a 16 sidewall you can put in a lofted area and add a lot to your useable square footage. Check out the new issue of Fine Homebuilding for some good information on energy efficient stickframing. JP ***************** Stuck. |
#29
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
Brian,
I have 9 1/2 ft ceilings in basement / wood shop. This height is plenty high enough for me. I also have radiant floor heat which is absolutely wonderful! The only thing I would have done different if I could do it over again would be to my a floor plan for my shop and put the dust collection pipes in the floor. Bryan Brian Elfert wrote: I'm in the planning stages for my shop building. My initial plans called for 9' walls with a vaulted ceiling so I would have plenty of overhead clearance. Are 9' walls still enough clearance if I switch to a flat ceiling? Are 10' walls really worth all the extra lumber and heating/cooling expense? In an ideal world, the walls would be 12 to 15 feet high, but I don't have the budget for that. Brian Elfert |
#30
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
"DamnYankee" writes:
Brian, I have 9 1/2 ft ceilings in basement / wood shop. This height is plenty high enough for me. I also have radiant floor heat which is absolutely wonderful! The only thing I would have done different if I could do it over again would be to my a floor plan for my shop and put the dust collection pipes in the floor. With pipes in the floor, how do you handle things like planers that collect from the top? Elbows? Brian Elfert |
#31
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Should I do 9' or 10' walls in a shop?
"Jay Pique" writes:
Have you consider ICF instead of stick built? I went that route, and 16' sidewalls. W/ a 16 sidewall you can put in a lofted area and add a lot to your useable square footage. Check out the new issue of Fine Homebuilding for some good information on energy efficient stickframing. I plan to use basically everything from the Fine Homebuilding article except the foamboard sheathimg. Plywood only costs $5 a sheet more and eliminates the issues of shear strength and hanging siding. Brian Elfert |
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