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| Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#41
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"dean" wrote in message oups.com... Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Any comments? I've seen all sort of crappy oil used, even used motor oil. It works. OTOH, I'm still on my first gallon of bar oil that I paid about $5. Walmart sells Poulan branded bar oil for less than $3 per gallon. Still on your first gallon? Don't use than saw much huh? If you burn wood and get your own, that gallon of oil will be gone fairly quickly (or the blade will be gone). |
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#42
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Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Any comments? I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it. No, not really. The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better off being recycled and disposed of properly. Doug, I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been told that it can be done. I was just testing a theory that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me that I was wrong to do so. Theory proven correct ;^) Are you a jerk in real life, too, or just on Usenet? Hey AlphaTurd! If you don't like what he said, then just ignore him. Why can't you play nice? (Sad thing is, there was nothing wrong with your post about the oil.) |
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#43
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Juergen Hannappel wrote:
"dean" writes: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]... Yep, the best is peanut oil, second best is cotton seed oil, last is corn oil.  |
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#44
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, "dean" wrote: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a hell of a mess. Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to use more oil. Just means that the bar gets hotter, unless you dial up the oil flow. 'Course all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or STP additive. Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's about even, price-wise. That isn't true either, standard brands of motor oil are more expensive unless you find a really good sale. |
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#45
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Duane Bozarth wrote:
Juergen Hannappel wrote: "dean" writes: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]... Well, they are cutting trees, aren't they, the scum...  Yeah the dirty scum, of course a lot of the smaller trees (15-16 inch diameter) are just snipped off (no chainsaws) and the branches just knocked off by pulling the log through a "debrancher." Of course, if you look around a logging site you will find diesel fuel spills, hydraulic oil spills, gasoline spills, etc. I really doubt the base of bar oil is any different than that for engine oil...just viscosity and (perhaps) some specific additives, but I'd not expect much there as the lubrication requirements are not onerous in terms of temperature, pressure, tolerances, etc. Actually they use sperm oil; no wonder the whales are disappearing. Guess they will have to switch to bovine oil or lard. Just think of cutting the trees to the smell of frying bacon. |
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#47
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Modat22 wrote:
The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]... So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is there something better? There is a resin based bar lube that is bio safe but it will turn to a solid if you left it sit too long. Oh that sounds like a good alternative! |
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#48
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#49
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George E. Cawthon wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: Just the same, it should be obvious that you're not doing your chain saw any good by running used motor oil through it. Doug, it just goes on the bar, it doesn't go through the motor. One touch into the dirt with the bar and you are far worse off than anything dirty motor oil would do to the bar. I know several wood cutters who use the used motor oil to lube the bar and chain. They cut a helluva lot of wood year around and I've never heard them complain about the oil hurting the saw or it's chain. |
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#50
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Garrett Fulton wrote:
"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message ... Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: .... The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain and bar. A lot of the chips and dust are wood, but a lot isn't--the inevitable dirt and other grime is at least as abrasive as the much smaller diameter particles that made it through the engine oil filter...after all, you wouldn't be particularly concerned to run your auto another 500 or even 1000 miles above the 3000 mi mark if you were on a trip and needed that to get home for a more convenient oil change, would you? The lube requirements of any modern engine are far more onerous... Just the same, it should be obvious that you're not doing your chain saw any good by running used motor oil through it. By the same token, I don't think it at all obvious there would be much difference observable one way or the other as opposed to clean motor oil... Seems to me like the "stale gas" thread or the "diluted 2-cycle gas in 4-cycle engine" threads of recent history...  Duane, I've got a 25 yr. old Poulan that has an 18 yr. old bar. I've used the hell out of that saw on_big_trees over the years. Only reason I changed the bar was it got bent when a tree pinched it when I was cutting on a hillside. I've always filled the bar oil tank with used motor oil. My chains last a long time and it should be evident that it sure didn't do any damage to the bar. I do pump the oiler quite a bit on the saw and keep the bar well lubed. Now................................wait for it. Some horse's ass will tell me I'm spreading carcinogens to the little forest creatures who might come and lick the stump that has used motor oil on it. Garrett Fulton Not to worry. The government had identified the air in pine forests as exceeding the allowable aromatics, so the little suckers will die of cancer from the pine smell anyway. |
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#51
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"Modat22" wrote in message ... what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable? Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever will. The county road crews around here routinely spray water based asphalt emulsion onto the roads and then top coat with rock chips... http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/1992/bacteria-0401.html -- SVL |
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#52
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I've used Penz 30w for years and not lost a chain or a bar yet.
John dean wrote: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Any comments? Dean |
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#53
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"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message ... "Modat22" wrote in message ... what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable? Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever will. The county road crews around here routinely spray water based asphalt emulsion onto the roads and then top coat with rock chips... http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/1992/bacteria-0401.html Interesting. Now I'm thinking of a new version of "Beano" . .. . |
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#54
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In article , "toller"
wrote wrote nothing worth reading, as usual... Hey, Wade, when are you going to outgrow the junior-high-school name-calling? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#55
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In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article .com, "dean" wrote: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a hell of a mess. Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to use more oil. Just means that the bar gets hotter, i.e. it isn't getting adequate lubrication... unless you dial up the oil flow. And obviously if you dial up the oil flow, you use more oil. 'Course all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or STP additive. Or just use bar & chain oil to start with.... Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's about even, price-wise. That isn't true either, standard brands of motor oil are more expensive unless you find a really good sale. In that case, what possible point is there in using motor oil? More expensive, and you need more of it, equals "bad idea" from where I stand. Then there's your suggestion of adding STP... making a more-expensive alternative even *more* expensive. I'm having trouble understanding why anyone would want to do that... -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#56
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In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: .... The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain and bar. A lot of the chips and dust are wood, but a lot isn't--the inevitable dirt and other grime is at least as abrasive as the much smaller diameter particles that made it through the engine oil filter...after all, you wouldn't be particularly concerned to run your auto another 500 or even 1000 miles above the 3000 mi mark if you were on a trip and needed that to get home for a more convenient oil change, would you? The lube requirements of any modern engine are far more onerous... Just the same, it should be obvious that you're not doing your chain saw any good by running used motor oil through it. Doug, it just goes on the bar, it doesn't go through the motor. One touch into the dirt with the bar and you are far worse off than anything dirty motor oil would do to the bar. Yes, George, I know it just goes on the bar. Are you really having such a hard time understanding that used, dirty oil doesn't lubricate as well as new, clean oil? -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#57
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Al Reid wrote:
"dean" wrote in message oups.com... Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Any comments? Dean I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it. -- Al Reid Hi, Get rid of? Wonder where does it end up? You're polluting! Tony |
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#58
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In article ,
(Doug Miller) wrote: In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: .... The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain and bar. A lot of the chips and dust are wood, but a lot isn't--the inevitable dirt and other grime is at least as abrasive as the much smaller diameter particles that made it through the engine oil filter...after all, you wouldn't be particularly concerned to run your auto another 500 or even 1000 miles above the 3000 mi mark if you were on a trip and needed that to get home for a more convenient oil change, would you? The lube requirements of any modern engine are far more onerous... Just the same, it should be obvious that you're not doing your chain saw any good by running used motor oil through it. Doug, it just goes on the bar, it doesn't go through the motor. One touch into the dirt with the bar and you are far worse off than anything dirty motor oil would do to the bar. Yes, George, I know it just goes on the bar. Are you really having such a hard time understanding that used, dirty oil doesn't lubricate as well as new, clean oil? I'm wondering which part of "The first time the tip touches dirt even for an instant, you've just put more crap on the bar than any amount of used motor oil possibly could" you can't comprehend. Face it, Doug, waste oil is perfectly fine as bar oil, despite your bleating to the contrary. (And the greenies who might want to cry about it are perfectly welcome to go suck rocks.) -- Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004. Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address. See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details. |
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#59
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dean affirmed:
| Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 | engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was | just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Dean... Judging from the length of this thread and the amount of new information conveyed, it must be the solstice, a full moon, or too hot to work in the shop. OMG - it's all three at once! Happy woodcutting with the oil of your choice :-). -- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto |
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#60
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Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Mark and Kim Smith wrote: Doug Miller wrote: snip The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain and bar. Hey Doug, Check this out as for the hardness of wood. Check out the third picture down!! http://www.xmission.com/~tmathews/b29/e.html Interesting site too.. Reminded me of the marvelous PBS Nova program about the attempt to recover the B-29 "Kee Bird" from Greenland. IIRC they did something creative with the wheels on that one too. Having no source of compressed air they filled the tires with propane they had on hand for cooking. If you never heard about this 1994-95 rescue attempt and its unhappy ending, here's a link: http://b-29s-over-korea.com/shortstories/b29-frozen.htm Jeff What a *******. A great yarn. John |
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#61
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article .com, "dean" wrote: Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil? Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a hell of a mess. Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to use more oil. Just means that the bar gets hotter, i.e. it isn't getting adequate lubrication... unless you dial up the oil flow. And obviously if you dial up the oil flow, you use more oil. 'Course all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or STP additive. Or just use bar & chain oil to start with.... Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's about even, price-wise. That isn't true either, standard brands of motor oil are more expensive unless you find a really good sale. In that case, what possible point is there in using motor oil? More expensive, and you need more of it, equals "bad idea" from where I stand. Absolutely. Then there's your suggestion of adding STP... making a more-expensive alternative even *more* expensive. I'm having trouble understanding why anyone would want to do that... Simple. You don't buy motor oil in preference to bar oil. But if you have oil that otherwise you wouldn't use (bad brand, high viscosity, low quality/service rating; somebody gives you oil; or you buy oil on sale for less than 50 cents a quart, then use it instead of buying bar oil. BTW, adding STP/Motor Honey will add less than 50 cents to a gallon of oil. And then, maybe somebody will give you the Motor Honey. |
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#62
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: .... The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain and bar. A lot of the chips and dust are wood, but a lot isn't--the inevitable dirt and other grime is at least as abrasive as the much smaller diameter particles that made it through the engine oil filter...after all, you wouldn't be particularly concerned to run your auto another 500 or even 1000 miles above the 3000 mi mark if you were on a trip and needed that to get home for a more convenient oil change, would you? The lube requirements of any modern engine are far more onerous... Just the same, it should be obvious that you're not doing your chain saw any good by running used motor oil through it. Doug, it just goes on the bar, it doesn't go through the motor. One touch into the dirt with the bar and you are far worse off than anything dirty motor oil would do to the bar. Yes, George, I know it just goes on the bar. Are you really having such a hard time understanding that used, dirty oil doesn't lubricate as well as new, clean oil? I don't advocate using used oil. But new oil is dirty as soon as you drive 1 mile after an oil change. If you are changing your engine oil every 3 months/ 3000 miles in a good engine, there is lots of lubrication left. Some car manufactures seem to think there is at least another 2 months/2000 miles of use, and some seem to think there is another 4 months/4000 miles of use left. If it feels oily, it will lube the bar just fine. We're not talking fine tolerances. Any opposing argument is justs specious. |
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#63
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"Norma Desmond" wrote in message ... "PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message ... "Modat22" wrote in message ... what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable? Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever will. The county road crews around here routinely spray water based asphalt emulsion onto the roads and then top coat with rock chips... http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/1992/bacteria-0401.html Interesting. Now I'm thinking of a new version of "Beano" . IIRC, "Beano" is an enzyme....... FWIW, home distillers ( moonshiners ) are reporting it being as effective as malt in converting ( hydrolizing ) complex starches into simple sugars. Potatoes or corn, some yeast and "Beano", and you got yourself some mash....thinking this also works at a lower temperature than the amalyse ( sp ) too. === Back to the oil--always seems to dissappear within a year or so from my gravel drive, and I find it hard to believe its all being washed away by the rain... In fact, many municipalitys are now requiring a "grassy swale area" in order that any oily runoff from parking lots, subdivisions, and other such largely paved-over areas be allowed time in order to bio-process before the water leaches back into the soil in recharging the local aquifer. -- SVL |
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#64
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You are spreading carcinogens to the little forest creatures who might come
and lick the stump that has used motor oil on it. Not to mention getting cancer yourself by handling used oil. being a horse's ass is better than being a DUMBASS |
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#66
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"Don Bruder" wrote in message ... .. Face it, Doug, waste oil is perfectly fine as bar oil, despite your bleating to the contrary. (And the greenies who might want to cry about it are perfectly welcome to go suck rocks.) Well, a field expedient, or maybe for folks who beat up a bar so bad so fast that it's not important, like limbers. However, bar oils are formulated differently even for summer and winter to try and hit that happy place where it carries well enough to lubricate, while having the good sense to get out of the way with its burden of dirt when the chain runs fast and free. I'm in hardwood country, and in the days before harvesters it was really tough to find someone who didn't use bar oil, or respect the tool that brought him his livelihood well enough to spend the four bucks per gallon. Bubba in the pineywoods might have enough waste oil in the junkers in his front yard to cut for a couple of days, but it just doesn't make sense for someone earning a living with his saw to scrounge dirty oil. |
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#67
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"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote in message ... In fact, many municipalitys are now requiring a "grassy swale area" in order that any oily runoff from parking lots, subdivisions, and other such largely paved-over areas be allowed time in order to bio-process before the water leaches back into the soil in recharging the local aquifer. Well, no. Mostly that's to allow the runoff from storms to get into the ground rather than the sewers. You get fined for excessive flow of untreated sewage from your plant, and a storm overloads the system fast. Not sure how it passed, but "environmentals" being the noisy folks they are, there was an ordinance up in the city that newly-constructed lots had to have "plantings" and grassy areas rather than just flat asphalt. Now consider an average snowfall of ~200" and cars dripping with great salt stalactites. Not a lot grows around the lot, and it's tougher'n hell to get a plowing pattern to clear snow around the aesthetically pleasing curbs.... |
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#68
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"John B" wrote in message ... If you never heard about this 1994-95 rescue attempt and its unhappy ending, here's a link: http://b-29s-over-korea.com/shortstories/b29-frozen.htm What a *******. A great yarn. John "There are only a handful of B-29's left, out of over 4,000. Somehow nobody realized it until it was too late. At one time the Arizona desert was covered with B-29's, some flown in and in good condition. They were all scrapped. " Confederate Air Force brought a 29 and a 17 out for static display when I was stationed in California. Together they had one tenth the hours of the 52 parked nearby. And it was one of the "young" ones, not an old hog like the D. |
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#69
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"cowboy" wrote in message ... You are spreading carcinogens to the little forest creatures who might come and lick the stump that has used motor oil on it. Not to mention getting cancer yourself by handling used oil. being a horse's ass is better than being a DUMBASS And if Bull**** was music, you'd be a brass band, tough guy. You're exposed to several orders of magnitude more carcinogens by just breathing the exhaust from the chainsaw. But I guess you go to the woods with a medical compressor and respirator. Typical environmental whacko. Not enough sense to pour **** out of a boot. Garrett Fulton |
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#70
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In article , Don Bruder wrote:
I'm wondering which part of "The first time the tip touches dirt even for an instant, you've just put more crap on the bar than any amount of used motor oil possibly could" you can't comprehend. I generally try to avoid sticking the tip of my chain saw into the dirt. Apparently you're not as careful with yours. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#71
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"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , Don Bruder wrote: I'm wondering which part of "The first time the tip touches dirt even for an instant, you've just put more crap on the bar than any amount of used motor oil possibly could" you can't comprehend. I generally try to avoid sticking the tip of my chain saw into the dirt. Apparently you're not as careful with yours. What do you do, pressure wash the bark? Or does the wind not blow and carry where you live? |
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#72
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Doug Miller wrote:
....snip... Can't you see we're mostly simply pulling your "sky is falling" chain??? |
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#73
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In article , "George" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message m... In article , Don Bruder wrote: I'm wondering which part of "The first time the tip touches dirt even for an instant, you've just put more crap on the bar than any amount of used motor oil possibly could" you can't comprehend. I generally try to avoid sticking the tip of my chain saw into the dirt. Apparently you're not as careful with yours. What do you do, pressure wash the bark? Or does the wind not blow and carry where you live? No, I try to avoid sticking the tip into the dirt. Like I said. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#74
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George wrote:
..... Confederate Air Force brought a 29 and a 17 out for static display when I was stationed in California. Together they had one tenth the hours of the 52 parked nearby. And it was one of the "young" ones, not an old hog like the D. They flew a 29 out here for display and even a few sightseeing flights over Memorial Day. There was a large pilot training base here in the war. Silos on the farm were a landmark for return lineup for landing. One fella' who flew them and was trainer here took a turn and retraced his old path--discovered we'd had to take the silos down. I happened to be out when he flew over at about 150 ft or so. |
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#75
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PrecisionMachinisT wrote:
.... Back to the oil--always seems to dissappear within a year or so from my gravel drive, and I find it hard to believe its all being washed away by the rain... The area where we drained oil from tractors and trucks from as far back as the 20s until toughly the 70s or 80s is now covered in grass and is indistinguishable from that area surrounding it...when I was a kid it looked like almost like a paved road. It's broken down pretty well. Not a smart thing to have done, certainly, and I suspect a soil sample would show some residual, but certainly doesn't appear permanent.... |
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#76
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#77
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Doug Miller wrote:
In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: ....snip... Can't you see we're mostly simply pulling your "sky is falling" chain??? I'm not sure what you think you read. I never said anything beyond stating what is, or should be, self-evidently obvious: that new oil is a better lubricant than used oil, and that oils specifically formulated for a particular purpose are better suited to that purpose than oils which are not. I read your typical reaction to a suggestion... |
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#78
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In article , wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , wrote: Doug Miller wrote: ....snip... Can't you see we're mostly simply pulling your "sky is falling" chain??? I'm not sure what you think you read. I never said anything beyond stating what is, or should be, self-evidently obvious: that new oil is a better lubricant than used oil, and that oils specifically formulated for a particular purpose are better suited to that purpose than oils which are not. I read your typical reaction to a suggestion... Then I'm at a total loss to understand where you thought you read that the sky is falling. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
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#79
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Duane Bozarth wrote:
PrecisionMachinisT wrote: ... Back to the oil--always seems to dissappear within a year or so from my gravel drive, and I find it hard to believe its all being washed away by the rain... The area where we drained oil from tractors and trucks from as far back as the 20s until toughly the 70s or 80s is now covered in grass and is indistinguishable from that area surrounding it...when I was a kid it looked like almost like a paved road. It's broken down pretty well. Not a smart thing to have done, certainly, and I suspect a soil sample would show some residual, but certainly doesn't appear permanent.... As I understand it, the problem is not so much what it does to the soil that it leaches through as what it does to the water table when it gets down there. -- Proud member of the reality-based community. |
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Doug Miller wrote:
.... Then I'm at a total loss to understand where you thought you read that the sky is falling. It's the logical characterization by extension of your absolute position which is repeated on a myriad of subjects... It's not that the statements themselves are strictly incorrect (yes, new oil is more lubricating than old, and yes, what is entrained in used oil isn't a lubricant), it's that you tend to apply the principle to the extreme where, in this case, the lubrication reqm'ts are so minimal and the inevitable introduction of extraneous dirt and grime makes carrying on over using virgin lubricant specifically tailored to the purpose such overkill as to invite parody... That help? And, btw, most of the loss of function in motor oil isn't the oil, per se, it's the breakdown of the additives that are there specifically for the high-temperature/high-pressure conditions of an engine--conditions not at all prevalent in the application here. |
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