Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Dean

"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Dean

I worked with a professional tree service for 7 years. We used the bar oil
or motor oil . Whatever was available at the time.. Using motor oil never
hurt any saw we had. We used Stihls, we had Huskys, Echos (long time ago).
Never hurt any of them. the main thing is to make sure that the bar gets
oil. Theres a slot that the chain runs in.. sometimes it's good to clean
that out. It can get gunked up a bit. That'll help keep the bar lubed up.

dean wrote:
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30
engine oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was
just wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Used 10W30 in my Stihl from the time I bought it until it was
"borrowed" by an uninvited guest - about five- years - and it worked
well for me.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

"dean" wrote in message oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Dean


I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

--

Al Reid

In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message . ..
In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Doug,

I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been told that it can be done. I was just testing a theory
that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me that I was wrong to do so.

Theory proven correct ;^)

--

Al Reid

In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article , "Al Reid"
wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

Doug,

I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been told
that it can be done. I was just testing a theory
that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me that I
was wrong to do so.

Theory proven correct ;^)

Are you a jerk in real life, too, or just on Usenet?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message . ..
In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article , "Al Reid"
wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

Doug,

I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been told
that it can be done. I was just testing a theory
that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me that I
was wrong to do so.

Theory proven correct ;^)

Are you a jerk in real life, too, or just on Usenet?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

ROFLMAO!

On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 11:15:31 -0400, "Al Reid"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message . ..
In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Doug,

I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been told that it can be done. I was just testing a theory
that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me that I was wrong to do so.

Theory proven correct ;^)


Actually, that seems like a pretty good use for it. The claim that
'it doesn't do the bar any good" is probably true but OTOH it is very
unlikely to do it any harm either. After all, it was being used up
until it was drained to lubricate a far more complicated and delicate
mechanical system (your car) with no ill effects. To think that it
was good enough for your car up till then, but inadequate for the task
of lubing the chain and bar is silly. And it's an equally silly
suggestion that someone is doing the world a favor to recycle it
instead because that means you will be using BRAND NEW oil instead of
that used oil - clearly a net loss to the world of limited oil.

"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 11:15:31 -0400, "Al Reid"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. ..
In article , "Al Reid"
wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30
engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in
used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is
better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his
butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Doug,

I have never actually put used motor oil in my saws, although I have been
told that it can be done. I was just testing a theory
that if I said I did that Doug Miller would be the first one to tell me
that I was wrong to do so.

Theory proven correct ;^)


Actually, that seems like a pretty good use for it. The claim that
'it doesn't do the bar any good" is probably true but OTOH it is very
unlikely to do it any harm either. After all, it was being used up
until it was drained to lubricate a far more complicated and delicate
mechanical system (your car) with no ill effects. To think that it
was good enough for your car up till then, but inadequate for the task
of lubing the chain and bar is silly. And it's an equally silly
suggestion that someone is doing the world a favor to recycle it
instead because that means you will be using BRAND NEW oil instead of
that used oil - clearly a net loss to the world of limited oil.


Thank you for injecting some sanity into this discussion.

Garrett Fulton

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , "Al Reid" wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.


Actually, I never thought of it, but I really doubt it's really doing
any harm--it's not a demanding lubrication problem and the solids
suspended in the oil aren't anything much to compare to the junk that's
being collected on the bar anyway...

imo, $0.02, ymmv, etc., ....

In article , wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:

In article , "Al Reid"
wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

No, not really.

The suspended solids and other junk (such as combustion byproducts) in used
motor oil don't do either the bar or the chain any good. That gunk is better
off being recycled and disposed of properly.


Actually, I never thought of it, but I really doubt it's really doing
any harm--it's not a demanding lubrication problem and the solids
suspended in the oil aren't anything much to compare to the junk that's
being collected on the bar anyway...

The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles
of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely
you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain
and bar.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Doug Miller wrote:
....
The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles
of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely
you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain
and bar.

A lot of the chips and dust are wood, but a lot isn't--the inevitable
dirt and other grime is at least as abrasive as the much smaller
diameter particles that made it through the engine oil filter...after
all, you wouldn't be particularly concerned to run your auto another 500
or even 1000 miles above the 3000 mi mark if you were on a trip and
needed that to get home for a more convenient oil change, would you?
The lube requirements of any modern engine are far more onerous...

Doug Miller wrote:

snip

The suspended solids in used engine oil are, for the most part, fine particles
of metal. The junk that collects on the bar during use is wood dust. Surely
you don't imagine that the two produce the same degree of wear on the chain
and bar.




Hey Doug,

Check this out as for the hardness of wood. Check out the third
picture down!! http://www.xmission.com/~tmathews/b29/e.html

Al Reid wrote:
"dean" wrote in message oups.com...

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Dean



I put used motor oil in my saw. Good way to get rig of it.

--

Al Reid


Hi,
Get rid of? Wonder where does it end up? You're polluting!
Tony

"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I've seen all sort of crappy oil used, even used motor oil. It works. OTOH,
I'm still on my first gallon of bar oil that I paid about $5.

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"dean" wrote in message
oups.com...

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?


I've seen all sort of crappy oil used, even used motor oil. It works. OTOH,
I'm still on my first gallon of bar oil that I paid about $5.



Walmart sells Poulan branded bar oil for less than
$3 per gallon. Still on your first gallon? Don't
use than saw much huh? If you burn wood and get
your own, that gallon of oil will be gone fairly
quickly (or the blade will be gone).

"dean" writes:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

Juergen Hannappel wrote:
"dean" writes:


Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?


The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...

So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is there
something better?

--
Proud member of the reality-based community.

In article ,
says...

So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is there
something better?


Husqvarna were selling a bar oil based on vegetable oil. I have recently
heard that the performance was/is considered unsatisfactory but this is
very second hand info, just some guy whose brother does logging in
Bavaria.
Guess it probably would be more environmentally friendly, somewhat.

-P.

"Elmo" wrote in message
So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is
there something better?


Stihl, for one, does have a vegetable based oil

The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...

So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is there
something better?

There is a resin based bar lube that is bio safe but it will turn to a
solid if you left it sit too long.

Good luck with finding the biolube. None of the local dealers stock it.
None want to bother ordering it.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Good luck with finding the biolube. None of the local dealers stock it.

Same around thing here.......

....BUT...

The restaurant downtown serves up some mighty fine Spotted Owl Soup !!!

--

SVL

Modat22 wrote:
The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...


So should I be using canola oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, olive oil, or is there
something better?


There is a resin based bar lube that is bio safe but it will turn to a
solid if you left it sit too long.

Oh that sounds like a good alternative!

Juergen Hannappel wrote:

"dean" writes:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...

Well, they are cutting trees, aren't they, the scum...

I really doubt the base of bar oil is any different than that for engine
oil...just viscosity and (perhaps) some specific additives, but I'd not
expect much there as the lubrication requirements are not onerous in
terms of temperature, pressure, tolerances, etc.

Duane Bozarth wrote:
Juergen Hannappel wrote:

"dean" writes:


Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...


Well, they are cutting trees, aren't they, the scum...

Yeah the dirty scum, of course a lot of the
smaller trees (15-16 inch diameter) are just
snipped off (no chainsaws) and the branches just
knocked off by pulling the log through a
"debrancher." Of course, if you look around a
logging site you will find diesel fuel spills,
hydraulic oil spills, gasoline spills, etc.


I really doubt the base of bar oil is any different than that for engine
oil...just viscosity and (perhaps) some specific additives, but I'd not
expect much there as the lubrication requirements are not onerous in
terms of temperature, pressure, tolerances, etc.

Actually they use sperm oil; no wonder the whales
are disappearing. Guess they will have to switch
to bovine oil or lard. Just think of cutting the
trees to the smell of frying bacon.

"Juergen Hannappel"
wrote in message
...
"dean" writes:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is
using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I
was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

The oil on the chain will be distributed in you
environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for
lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a
dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of
choice]...

what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable?

what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable?




Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever
will.

In article ,
Modat22 wrote:

what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable?




Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever
will.

Never mind the hundred-plus years worth of oil-leaking jalopies that
have been driven on those asphalt roads...

--
Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html for full details.

"Modat22" wrote in message
...

what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable?




Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than chain saws ever
will.

The county road crews around here routinely spray water based asphalt
emulsion onto the roads and then top coat with rock chips...

http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/1992/bacteria-0401.html


--

SVL

"PrecisionMachinisT" wrote
in message ...

"Modat22" wrote in message
...

what in the world makes you think oil is not
biodegradable?




Asphalt releases more oil into the environment than
chain saws ever
will.

The county road crews around here routinely spray water
based asphalt
emulsion onto the roads and then top coat with rock
chips...

http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/1992/bacteria-0401.html



Interesting. Now I'm thinking of a new version of "Beano" .
.. .

"Norma Desmond" wrote in message
...
what in the world makes you think oil is not biodegradable?



Or for that matter, what difference does it make? I'll tell you another
thing that isn't "biodegradable" and stays forever - dirt.

Juergen Hannappel wrote:
"dean" writes:


Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?


The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...


Yep, the best is peanut oil, second best is cotton
seed oil, last is corn oil.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
Juergen Hannappel wrote:
"dean" writes:


Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?


The oil on the chain will be distributed in you environment it's
totally unacceptable to use a non-biodegradable oil for lubricating
the saw. The pro's you have seen obviously don't care a dam about the
rest of the world and should be [insert punishment of choice]...


Yep, the best is peanut oil, second best is cotton
seed oil, last is corn oil.

Yeah, producing all those crops is definately GOOD for the environment !!!

--

SVL

On 22 Jun 2005 07:27:39 -0700, "dean" wrote:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

Dean

I use stihl bar lube and stp mixed 10 to 1, it might sound silly but
my chain seems to stay sharp longer with less stretch. I cut alot of
locust trees for posts and firewood each season.

In misc.rural dean wrote:
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Any comments?

I use Poulan bar oil from Walmart. Its 30 weight with a tackifier (sp?) in
it so it sticks to the chain better than motor oil. Since it doesn't have
any of the additives needed to keep an engine clean, its cheaper than motor
oil too.

In article .com, "dean" wrote:
Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?

Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it
stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty
quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a
hell of a mess.

Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's
about even, price-wise.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, "dean" wrote:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?




Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it
stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain pretty
quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes a
hell of a mess.

Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to
use more oil. Just means that the bar gets
hotter, unless you dial up the oil flow. 'Course
all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or
STP additive.


Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's
about even, price-wise.

That isn't true either, standard brands of motor
oil are more expensive unless you find a really
good sale.

In article , "George E. Cawthon" wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, "dean"
wrote:

Because every professional user I have ever seen is using 10W30 engine
oil. Now I'm not about to put that into my Stihls but I was just
wondering if I am wasting money on expensive bar oil?




Bar & chain oil is a *lot* thicker and stickier than motor oil. This helps it

stay on the chain. Motor oil will work, but it gets slung off the chain
pretty
quickly, so you have to replenish the oil reservoir more often. And it makes
a
hell of a mess.

Getting slung off the bar doesn't cause the saw to
use more oil. Just means that the bar gets
hotter,

i.e. it isn't getting adequate lubrication...

unless you dial up the oil flow.

And obviously if you dial up the oil flow, you use more oil.

'Course
all you need to do is add a little Motor Honey or
STP additive.

Or just use bar & chain oil to start with....

Bottom line: motor oil is cheaper, but you use more of it. I'm guessing it's
about even, price-wise.

That isn't true either, standard brands of motor
oil are more expensive unless you find a really
good sale.

In that case, what possible point is there in using motor oil? More expensive,
and you need more of it, equals "bad idea" from where I stand.

Then there's your suggestion of adding STP... making a more-expensive
alternative even *more* expensive. I'm having trouble understanding why anyone
would want to do that...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?