I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes
One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
do with as little damage as possible.
I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?

TIA - Chuck


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Chuck wrote in message on
Thursday 12 May 2005 06:02 pm:

I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?

TIA - Chuck

Can you drill them out from the back?

Bill

With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
(both of the ones you mentioned, actually). Then drill out the area with a
1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size. Redrill
for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
hole, even.

Don Sforza

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes
One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
do with as little damage as possible.
I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?

TIA - Chuck


=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
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There are drills like this:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=2354
or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then plug the
hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time - and every time
when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole first to cut the
threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

"Don Sforza" wrote in
:

With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending
screw (both of the ones you mentioned, actually). Then drill out the
area with a 1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the
approaipiate size. Redrill for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike
a charm... twice on the same hole, even.


And next time, run in a steel screw to cut the threads, remove it, and then
put in the waxed brass screw. DAMHIKT2

Patriarch

On Thu, 12 May 2005 22:19:58 GMT, "Don Sforza"
wrote:

With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
(both of the ones you mentioned, actually).

How tiny, and is there a special technique? I used a 3/32 bit
in a drill press and it just wouldn't stay on the brass.


Then drill out the area with a
1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size. Redrill
for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
hole, even.

I've done this before, but on much larger screws and holes.

-- Chuck


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On Thu, 12 May 2005 18:14:10 -0500, Patriarch
wrote:

And next time, run in a steel screw to cut the threads, remove it, and then
put in the waxed brass screw. DAMHIKT2

I know, I know When the first screws went into the pilot
holes without breaking, I figured I was home free. My bad.

-- Chuck


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On Thu, 12 May 2005 18:14:39 -0400, "Bill C."


Can you drill them out from the back?

Reeealy don't want to. That's the front of the cabinet. I can
repair the other side and it only shows when the lid is down. The
front is in good shape (curly grain and all).

-- Chuck



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This is the best suggestion on the thread. I've used these myself for years
and they work great. They're hardened steel and last quite a while. If you
don't want to drill over the screw shank full-length, just go down a
quarter-inch or so, grab the shank of the screw with needle-nose pliers and
twist it out. After you have the screw out, and if you've centered the drill
over the broken-off screw pretty well, the hole ends up well-sized to take a
plug. Glue in a plug, re-drill it, and use some lubricant on the next screw
you put in there. Brass is very soft. McFeely sells something they call
Ackempucky for lubricating screws and it got good reviews in the mags such
as American Woodworker. The old timers just used soap.

Tom Dacon

"JeffB" wrote in message
...
There are drills like this:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=2354
or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then plug
the hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time - and
every time when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole first
to cut the threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.
--
JeffB
remove no.spam. to email

The plug should be cut flat grain rather that an end grain dowel. End
grain doesn't hold screws or nails very well.
robo hippy

The plug should be cut flat grain rather that an end grain dowel. End
grain doesn't hold screws or nails very well.

I have found plain old dowels to work just fine.
In fact, unless the flat grain plug was really big, I would be concerned
that the screw would cause it to break up.

I have found plain old dowels to work just fine.
In fact, unless the flat grain plug was really big, I would be concerned
that the screw would cause it to break up.

So do golf tees if the hole is the right size.

Lee


--
To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

JeffB wrote:
There are drills like this:
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=2354
or you can try to make a similar thing out of a piece of tubing. Then
plug the hole with a dowel, and drill the pilot hole again. This time -
and every time when using brass screws, thread a steel screw in the hole
first to cut the threads in the wood, then install the brass screw.

Or he
http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=983

JES

You have to do it "by hand", holding the dremel. You have to rout all around
the screw, like you were digging out a post hole. The tool is a tiny ball
mill... like you would use to engrave a piece of wood. I don't have the
number, but its about the size of a #50 drill bit.

Don


"Chuck" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 12 May 2005 22:19:58 GMT, "Don Sforza"
wrote:

With the very tiniest of Dremel bits you can "dig out" the offending screw
(both of the ones you mentioned, actually).

How tiny, and is there a special technique? I used a 3/32 bit
in a drill press and it just wouldn't stay on the brass.


Then drill out the area with a
1/8th or 3/16th drill and glue in a dowel of the approaipiate size.
Redrill
for the brass screw. DAMHIKT. Works llike a charm... twice on the same
hole, even.

I've done this before, but on much larger screws and holes.

-- Chuck


=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

Chuck wrote:

I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes
One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
do with as little damage as possible.
I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?

Besides all the other options you've already been given, there's one
that hasn't been mentioned. Using a small file or a Dremel cutoff
wheel, you can deepen the screw slot. The problem with this method of
course is that if the screw is recessed, you'll risk damage to the
surrounding surfaces.

For the future, definitely use a steel screw first, and I would
advise "lubing" the screws with paraffin.


Chuck Vance (who has BTDT)

Another future option is to use a machine screw. Drill, tap, and install.
It will actually
hold better than wood screws and much less chance of breakage.
Cheers,
cc

"Chuck" wrote in message
...
I'm installing some small brass catches with 4x1/2 brass
screws. I had a few, installed them, and ran out of screws. Went out
and got some more and the first two broke off in the holes
One is below the surface, one sticks out just enough to catch
your finger on its sharp edge. To add to the problem, the wood is
already finished (oil and shellac), so whatever I do I would like to
do with as little damage as possible.
I tried to drill out the one that sticks out but the bit just
slipped off the screw. Any other suggestions?

TIA - Chuck


=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}

[...snip...]

The old timers just used soap.

Maybe OK for brass, but soap draws moisture. I use toilet bowl wax
rings as a lubricant. Ackempucky is better, but expensive.

Thanks to all who responded. I got the Rockler screw extractor
and it made a hole around the screw, although it didn't remove it. I
used a pick and a needle-nose plier to extract the screw. I have to
say the extractor drilled a very good hole and since I could only
leave a bare 1/8" between the hole and the edge of the board, it had
to be a good hole with no drill wobble.
Now to plug, redrill, refinish, use a non-brass screw to set
the threads, and lubricate a real brass screw as the very last step.

-- Chuck


=====
Those are my principles. If you don't like them I have others.
=====
{remove curly brackets for email}