I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

The trick is to use a Steel #2 to make the initial threads in the predrilled
hole and then put in the brass screw.

Using a steel screw to thread the holes first is a good idea. You can also
use a lubricant on the brass ones. Beeswax preferably, but bar soap works in
a pinch. --dave

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

Pre drill

Then use a #2 STEEL screw to cut the threads, then remove the steel #2
and put in the brass #2

If you don't have any #2 steel screws, maybe a run to the hardware
store is in order???



John


On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

Sam the Cat wrote:

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

Have you tried applying some wax to the threads of the screws first?

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

In article ,
says...
I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..




If you use a caliper on the shank of the screw, I believe you'll find
that a 5/64 bit is more appropriate. Should ease the situation a lot.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

Why are you here? So wait until you can get some.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...


Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

Use a steel -- oh! Sorry!

Seriously - I think you might need to try a 3/32nd's pilot.

Many many years ago in high school shop we were taught to take a drill
bit and lay it along side the screw we wanted to pre-drill. When we
could just see the bottoms of both 'V's over the thichness of the bit,
we had the correct drill bit to pre-drill with. Don't know if thats a
1/16th in your case or not but its always worked for me.

Try some of the wax from a toilet bowl ring on the threads. Works great
and one $1 ring will last years and years.

Grandpa John

Sam the Cat wrote:

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

I know about using a steel screw first to define the whole but I do not
have any #2 steel screws handy..

Would a small machine screw tap possibly give enough relief for the wood screw?


Joe

"Joe Bobst" wrote in message
...
I know about using a steel screw first to define the whole but I do
not
have any #2 steel screws handy..

Would a small machine screw tap possibly give enough relief for the wood
screw?

Probably not. Since the machine screw has a different thread form, turning
a tap down the hole will attempt to cut the machine thread. When you
attempt to follow this with the wood screw, it would be like attempting to
thread a 10-24 screw into a 10-32 nut.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..




Apply a bit of soap or wax to the screw? Tom
Work at your leisure!

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......


"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......



You can get #2 and much smaller here.

http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/TX.cfm

Sam the Cat wrote:

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

McFeely's stops at #4 too, looks like.

So I'd try:

* use a slightly bigger drill bit
* lubricate the threads with Johnson's paste wax; drive while still wet

How big is a #2 screw anyway? I haven't really learned screw sizes, since I
usually just use the screws that come with my crap BORG hardware.

What I'm thinking is, might you not find a suitable screw in some little
toy, or a computer? I can think of lots of little steel screws I've seen
along the way, though I'd guess it's probably unlikely any of them have the
right thread pitch for wood.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

MSCDirect.com and McMaster-Carr both list #2 steel woodscrews

John

On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 11:27:07 -0500, Silvan
wrote:

Sam the Cat wrote:

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

McFeely's stops at #4 too, looks like.

So I'd try:

* use a slightly bigger drill bit
* lubricate the threads with Johnson's paste wax; drive while still wet

How big is a #2 screw anyway? I haven't really learned screw sizes, since I
usually just use the screws that come with my crap BORG hardware.

What I'm thinking is, might you not find a suitable screw in some little
toy, or a computer? I can think of lots of little steel screws I've seen
along the way, though I'd guess it's probably unlikely any of them have the
right thread pitch for wood.

cool -- thanks
"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......



You can get #2 and much smaller here.

http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/TX.cfm

youre kidding me, 14.5cents for a small screw? even in stainless is
ridiculous... were those 2.60 for the 3 ought?... wow... wouldnt wnat to drop
those in a crack... if you used 3 or four of those in a hinge, it would be more
than the hinge.. holy crap...

"ThJester99" wrote in message
...
youre kidding me, 14.5cents for a small screw? even in stainless is
ridiculous... were those 2.60 for the 3 ought?... wow... wouldnt wnat to
drop
those in a crack... if you used 3 or four of those in a hinge, it would be
more
than the hinge.. holy crap...

You should send you response to the internet site. Seems reasonable to me.
Try finding them cheaper.

"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got any
ideas where to get a #2


http://www.mcmaster.com/
Greg

"Sam the Cat" wrote in
:

Ok -- for all those that recommend the "steel screw approach" -- got
any
ideas where to get a #2 (or #1 or #0) in steel ?

Borg stops at #4 -- the LV catalog stops at #4.......

I get #2 in steel from my local Ace Hardware. I predrill the screw hole
with a small wire size drill bit (obtained from my local hobby store), then
wax the screws before driving.

As a final note, you may want to put a little padded f-clamp around the box
back to squeeze the thin stock as you are driving the screw. Those little
1/2" hinges have holes so close to the barrels that in some woods the tiny
screw can make the side of the box bow or even split around the screw as
it's driven ... DAMHIKT.

Subject: predrilling for a #2 screw
From: "Leon"
Date: 1/5/2005 8:32 P.M. Pacific Standard Time
Message-id: m


"ThJester99" wrote in message
...
youre kidding me, 14.5cents for a small screw? even in stainless is
ridiculous... were those 2.60 for the 3 ought?... wow... wouldnt wnat to
drop
those in a crack... if you used 3 or four of those in a hinge, it would be
more
than the hinge.. holy crap...

You should send you response to the internet site. Seems reasonable to me.
Try finding them cheaper.


www.mcmaster.com

I figure since most other posters ignored the fact you don't have #2
steel screws, I'd complicate matters by suggesting some other hardware
all together. :-P

I'm assuming you're using wood screws, so another option is to use #2
machine scews and drill and tap the hole just like for metal work.
According to the Lee Valley catalog (I think) a machine screw into a
tapped hole actually has more holding power than a similar sized wood
screw.

On Tue, 4 Jan 2005 16:19:01 -0500, "Sam the Cat"
wrote:

I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..

I use a gimlet. Lee Valley sells a pretty inexpensive set.
RJ
"Sam the Cat" wrote in message
...
I am building some small (5"x8") gift boxes out of small scraps in the
shop.
Some of the boxes have hinged tops and I am using some small brass hinges
from LV -- the hinged use a #2 brass wood screw.

The latest box I am trying to finish is made from Honduran Rosewood -- a
beautiful, but very dense wood. I am predrilling holes for the #2 screws
using a 1/16" bit to the depth of the screw which worked fine in the
Mahogany I was working with earlier. The Rosewood, however is a bit more
fickle and I continue to snap the heads of the screws.

Anybody know any tricks to make this work ? I know about using a steel
screw first to define the whole but I do not have any #2 steel screws
handy..